When Bulguksa Played Second Fiddle to the Snow, Bulguksa Part 1

There we were - our second day in Gyeongju during our first ever trip to Korea. My friend and I had planned an early start to see both the famous Bulguksa Temple and the Seokkoram Grotto. We'd just made our way into the first courtyard when it started to snow. No big deal to folks who live in temperate climes but it was my very first experience of real snow and to have the snowflakes drift down so gently in such a setting was sublime.

Unfortunately we weren't quite prepared for the cold and found ourselves taking refuge in the temple where a kindly ajumma invited us to draw closer to the electric heater. She even poured for us some herbal concoction from a kettle kept warm by a stove. It was so peaceful watching the drifting snowflakes framed by the wooden portals of the temple.

On second thought, it wasn't a case of nature over the man-made. The scene was a harmonious yin-yang balance between the two worlds. What better place to be witness to the beauty of the Shilla temple being enhanced by the serenity of the wintry landscape?

source:
http://koreajourney.com/About-Korea.html

Apsaras - Heavy or Heavenly Maidens? - Gyeongju, Part 6

Was browsing through the website of  the Gyeongju National Museum  the other day and was tickled to find an amusing blunder.

On the page which describes the famous Emile Bell or the Divine Bell of King Seongdeok, the description refers to the four apsaras as "heavy maidens sitting on the lotus flower cushion".

I've got a small reproduction of the Emile Bell, my one souvenir from Gyeongju which I couldn't resist splurging money to acquire and when I had a second look at the patterns on the replica bell, the ladies didn't look overweight to me.

Editing lapses aside, I'd say this website is a great introduction to would-be visitors to this famous museum and historic city. It has also been a great way for me to revisit Gyeongju to appreciate more fully its cultural legacy. I don't recall if there were the same explanatory notes in English for the artefacts on display when I visited the museum years ago but this website provides some useful and interesting information about some treasures in its vast collection ( it has over 210,000 items but only displays about 3000 artefacts).

Just click here  and then click on Exhibition Halls at the top bar. Look out for the famous Gold Crown and ornamental sheath for a dagger in the Archaeology Hall. Read carefully as well the description for a jar with clay figurines. Happy Exploring!

A Millennium-Old "Star-Watching Tower", Gyeongju Part 5

  Cheomseongdae's graceful profile is more beautiful at night

Cheomseongdae, according to one source, means “star-gazing tower”. Yet experts still are arguing about the actual functions of this striking structure in Gyeongju, according to Sang Sang-yong’s article in the Korea Journal. I’d take Song’s claim that it’s one of “the hottest in the history of debates in Korea” with a thimbleful of salt but let’s have a quick look at the options.

Was it built to read the sun, the stars, the clouds or something else?

Was this granite tower, shaped like a bottle, which was built during the reign of Queen Seondeok ( between 633 and 647 A.D.) intended and used as...
a. an astronomical observatory?
b. a meteorological observatory?
c. a symbolic monument to Shilla science?
d. a sacrificial altar to worship the god of agriculture?
e. an expression of the Shilla concept of religion?
f.  all of the above?

Two models  showing how people got to the top.

Frankly, I’d echo Rhett Butler’s parting words to Scarlett O’Hara but I’m more impressed with the fact that it’s remained standing for over 1,300 years and has barely shown any stress from seismic shifts. If indeed Cheomseongdae  is an astronomical observatory, it may  be the oldest one existing in Asia. I guess its longevity and its apparent nod to the scientific, cultural and architectural achievements of the Shilla Dynasty are reasons enough for national pride.

National Treasure No. 31 - A national symbol and a source of pride

At the same time, it's also interesting how the twelve stones at the base reflect the months while the 30 layers may represent the days in the month while apparently the position, angles and directions of the tower corners are aligned to some stars, according to the Lonely Planet.

Sauna at Pension Cheomseongdae - does it really look like the tower?

The next time I visit Gyeongju though, I think I'll go to Pension Cheomseongdae , situated near the Gyeongju Folk Handicraft Village instead. Its sauna, supposedly shaped like its namesake, is  heated naturally with pine logs and is open 24 hours so one could even bed down there for the night and dream instead of Hallyu stars.

Sources:http://www.ekoreajournal.net/archive
http://english.triptokorea.com/english/UserFiles/Image/daily%20tour/Gyeongju/Cheomseongdae%20Observatory.jpg
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYR1uOXyymdzw7DjcVnwIeorZxNycHfpLEuUyH7oyzP1_19mcQ0S0uAVev-Ud9ROaNPGTQgtVL_8e8c7Z8Jmnajc1xlUk5rJY7d8XIY1wkbgm5zoGZ0c8WSpcHWdhUNoUsc7rF0Yu98zw/s1600-h/SDC14828.JPG
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3191/2832171984_8189b35ef7.jpg
http://i70.servimg.com/u/f70/12/80/22/63/para1010.jpg

Tobogganing down Tumuli, Gyeongju Part 4

Mian-hamnida  to all the Shilla kings and queens buried in the Gyeongju tumuli but I couldn’t help myself. The first thing I thought when I saw the smooth mounds in the Daereung-won Tumuli Park was: “Wouldn’t it be fun to take a toboggan and slide down a tumulus covered with snow?”

Purists and die-hard patriots would probably bar me from entering the city again for my irreverence. But hey, I’ve read in the Lonely Planet that even Korean tourists have been traipsing up and down the slopes when the security guards weren’t looking.

Unlike most graveyards, the ancient tombs for the royalty and nobility of the Shilla Dynasty have an approachable air about them. Sanitized by the archeologists’ excavations and the manicured lawns, the Daereungwon is more like a languid stroll through a park than an exciting exploration of people’s final resting places.

Even when one enters the Heavenly Horse Tomb ( Cheonmachong) and peers through the glass for a close-up look at reproductions of the famous gold crown ( now in the museum), there are no shivers down one’s spine the way one would feel exploring the Roman catacombs or the dark cramped spaces within an Egyptian crypt. But then again such comparisons are unfair.

Just go with an open mind and you might enjoy learning a thing or two about the difference between a stone-lined chamber tomb and a tunnel-type tomb or discovering the origins of the names for some of the tumuli such as “Bamboo Soldier Tomb” ( Chukhyonnung) , “Tomb of the Deceased’s Shoes” ( Singnichong), and “Tomb of the Auspicious Phoenix” ( Seobongchong).

For more information on how to get there, admission charges and opening times, click here.

Source:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gyeongju_Historic_Areas
http://www.lifeinkorea.com/Travel2/kyongju/216
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264117&nearBy=accom&
http://theseoultimes.com/ST/?url=/ST/db/read.php?idx=2988
http://www.absoluteastronomy.com/topics/Heavenly_Horse_Tomb

Gyeongju Revisited, Part 2

Am revisiting Gyeongju by way of this promotional video created by Arirang TV. Gives you a pretty good idea of what to expect, where to go and what to do while in Gyeongju.

Check out the scene which starts at 7:30 and watch how the tourists make copies of designs on the traditional roof tiles ( kiwa) used in Shilla architecture.

Another way to visit the sites is to take a cybertour of the important historical sites on this website produced by the Cultural Heritage Administration.

Gyeongju Revisited, Part 1

On hindsight, I realise that I have done Gyeongju a great disservice. It was our  first visit to Korea so my travel companion and I unwisely planned a whirlwind tour of the country and allocated very little time to this city known as a “ museum without walls”. It does seem sacriligeous somehow to attempt to appreciate its 1000- year history in two measly days.

 So how much time should one spend in this ancient capital appointed by the Shilla kings? After going over the literature that I managed to collect while there, I think at least one week, if not a few months, should be devoted exclusively to this place because there’s really so much to see – from royal tombs to Buddhist relics to UNESCO World Heritage sites.

Of course, if you’re really strapped for time and you have 10,000 won to spare, there’s a private bus which departs twice daily from the Gyeongju Express Bus Terminal twice daily to the main attractions. Stops on the seven-hour long tour include Bulguksa Temple, the Folk Craft Village, Poseokjeong Pavilion, the Gyeongju National Museum, the Cheomseongdae Observatory and the Cheonmachong Tomb. ( tel. 054-743-6001)

A word of caution though - people assume from the claim that Gyeongju is an open-air museum that the whole place looks like some ancient city. The reality is that its many cultural treasures are scattered around the edges of the present urban centre. It's advisable to read up on the history of the Shilla Dynasty to appreciate more fully the sights.

source:
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=312887
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=312750

Where Does Hwangjinyi Mourn Her First Love and Find Her Second?

Just a bit of  Trivial Pursuit for K drama fans:

After losing her first love, the kisaeng, Hwangjinyi, picks a pretty place in her attempt to drown her sorrows. Turns out to be the place where she also meets the man who eventually becomes her second love. Guess where?

Watch the KBS drama, or click here or go back to yesterday's posting for the answer.

source:

http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/CU/CU_EN_8_5_1_20.jsp
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264533
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/CU/content/cms_view_294988.jsp

No Animals Were Harmed..But Perhaps One Cat Was Seriously Offended?

The scenes here from Kim Ki-duk's "Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter...and Spring Again" are some of my favourites from this movie. Partly because I like cats but largely because this is such a quiet yet effective scene about how one man works out his personal redemption. The film was shot in Jusanji, near Juwangsan National Park.

See posting for August 9, 2009.

Sources:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B8F23jIXrr8&feature=related
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264150
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264533
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264533
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264533

Letter for the OTHER Lee Young-Ae, Juwangsan, Part 4

Dear Miss Lee Young-Ae,

I'd like to say Gamsa-hae-yo for your friendly welcome when I dropped by the Juwangsan National Park Information Centre. I noticed your name on your badge and asked quizzically, "Dae-jang-geum?"

Photo: Not THAT Lee Young-Ae!

You laughed in delight because this foreigner recognised you had the same name as the actress, Lee Young-Ae who plays the heroine in the hugely popular drama series, Jewel in the Palace, also known as DaeJangGeum. Don't know if that's why you were so kind and generous in giving me a drink and some candies as a parting gift but I was really touched by your spontaneous gesture.

Would've liked to ask you more - if the name was a common one among girls in Korea, if you enjoyed your work with the National Parks organisation in Juwangsan and if you enjoyed the MBC drama series as much as I did. Sadly, I didn't speak enough Korean to satisfy my curiosity but the memory of your kindness and your smile remains with me.

Thanks once again!
Ajumma

Source:
 http://news.stareastasia.com/2007/12/lee-young-ae-to-open-coffee-house/
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264150
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/CU/content/cms_view_304714.jsp

You Take The High Road; I’ll Take the Low Road, Juwangsan, Part 3

Here are some trails you can follow within the Juwangsan National Park. They appear in order of level of difficulty and scenic interest.

1. The Waterfall Trail ( which I take because I’m a sucker for water features even though I know they aren’t so exciting in autumn; OK, I’ll be honest – the gentle gradient along this walk has a lot to do with my choice as well!)

Daejeonsa - Jeilpokpo ( First Waterfall; 2 km from Ticket Office) – Jeipokpo ( Second Waterfall) – Jesampokpo ( Third Waterfall) – Naewonmaeul ( Artists’ Village)
Comment:

Follow the river upstream and enjoy getting side-tracked when you reach signposts which point to some interesting rock formations. The narrow gorge, site for the first waterfall, has an element of suspense because the walker can’t see what’s ahead. The second pokpo is more dramatic with twin falls taking the plunge. The third is also intriguing as it seems to have carved out a deep pool before retiring in a shallow pool. Naewonmaeul seems to be abandoned or perhaps only comes alive in summer. There’s only a tethered goat here bleating for release.

2. The Caves Route ( which can be combined with the first one)
Daejeonsa – Yeonhwagul ( on the left side of the trail, near a picnic ground) – then further up, on the right side of the trail, Juwangam ( hermitage) – Mujanggul – Juwanggul

Comment:
Somewhere near Juwangam, follow a steel staircase for about 100 m through a narrow gorge to reach a cliff and cave with an adjacent waterfall. Legend has it that King Ju took refuge with his chidren here while hiding from his enemies. Apparently he also died in Juwanggul ( cave).

3. The "I'm No Wimp" Route ( recommended by the Lonely Planet)
“Most visitors just see the waterfalls and caves, but for a more rigorous experience, try hiking up from Daejoensa to Juwangsan, 720 m ( 1 ¼ hours), along the ridge to Kaldeunggogae, 732 m ( 15 minutes) and then down to Hurimaegi ( 50 mins) before following the valley back to Daejeonsa. ( 1 ¾ hours)

Comment:
Time estimates irritate me – I know it means time for the average walker but then, I’m obviously below average as I usually need far longer to reach the said destinations. But seriously, this sounds like a great route and the views from the peak and ridge sound promising.

Sources:
Map http://www.flickr.com/photos/alexzuccarelli/2711311294/sizes/o/
http://juwang.knps.or.kr/eng/info/history.html
http://www.land.go.kr/gTra.do?tra=enudestination&cid=3505
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264150

The Early Bird Gets Juwangsan, Part 2

It’s 7 a.m. and the ticket office at the entrance to Juwangsan National Park isn’t open yet. It’s almost as if I have the whole place to myself. But then again, there are a few middle-aged and elderly couples who are out early as well for their daily exercise and I’m already envious of them because they’ve got such a delightful park on their doorstep.

South Korea is a walker’s paradise with twenty national parks and 19 provincial parks. Some of them, like Soraksan and Jirisan are so large, you’d need several weekends to cover the main trails. Juwangsan is comparatively modest in size ( 106 square kilometers) and it’s ideal for those less inclined to head for the inclines.

The gentle trail along Jubangcheon, the main valley in the middle of this gem of a park, suits me fine. I can walk for 10 km ( 5 km one-way) , without taxing my soles or ankles too much. The broad trail narrows down gradually to a footpath that goes past some intriguing rock formations that look even more mysterious in the early morning mists.

Like the other parks in Korea, Juwangsan National Park is a spa for the senses. The woods are lovely, with a palette of red maples, brown oaks and green pines that contrast with grey shades of the rocks. The air is cool, crisp, clean. It’s easier to enjoy all these because of the silence except for a few birds chirping and the sounds of the stream and the waterfalls. It’s great to be away from concrete sidewalks to get in touch literally with bark, leaf, sand, stone and water.

The sun’s fairly high in the sky and the crowds are already pouring in when I make my way out to a sikdang for a hot bowl of kalguksu. Can’t help feeling smug as I sit on a cushion beside a sluggish stream and watch the tour groups and families stream into the park.

Think I’ve discovered my modus operandi when it comes to visiting the parks: get in early before the tour coaches, get out for an early lunch before the crowds swell in the restaurants and then, if there's still energy and inclination, spend the rest of the day exploring a less crowded trail in the park.

Source:
http://tour.cs.go.kr/eng/03/01_01.asp
http://origo.tourexpress.com
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264150

The Stone Screens of Juwangsan, Part 1

Sometime during the 8th century during a more turbulent time of the Tang Dynasty, revolutionaries or rebels were chasing down King Juwang of China. Legend has it that he sought refuge in Seokpyeongsan, meaning “Stone Screen Mountain” and it’s not hard to see how it came by that name. The poor old king must have felt reassured when he saw the limestone peaks emerging out of the green like some sentinels offering refuge. These days, people running away from urban noise and pollution, continue to seek relief in the place which now goes by the name of Juwangsan.

It is the “only designated national park in the south-eastern region” and as I’m making my way south from Andong, it makes sense to stop by and explore this place a bit. But whether you’re in Andong or Seoul or Busan for that matter, Juwangsan Park is worth the time and effort. Apparently it used to be harder to get here as it’s far from the major cities but new roads have made it easier for motorists and buses to gain access.

The roads have probably been widened since my visit there in 2005 and more of the surrounding rice fields may have given way to the construction of more minbaks, yeogwans or hotels just outside the entrance into the national park. I can understand the temptation to give up the farming life to go into the tourism business – from the sun-dried faces of the halmeonis struggling to sell their persimmons, mushrooms, roasted rice and red peppers at the road-side near the bus terminal, it’s not easy to make a living in rural Korea. But at the same time, I’d be sorry to see those golden rice fields shrink or vanish completely.

It’s way before noon, but as my bus rolls into the bus terminal, I can see that the car park just outside the entrance to the park is already quite crowded with tour buses and cars. Groups of ajummas and ajeosshis clad in red wind-cheaters are sitting cross-legged in circles and picnicking on their kimchi and gimbaps. Just opposite the bus terminal and across the river, I find quite easily a minbak ( family-run guesthouse) with a very clean and spacious room ( for 20,000 won – 2005 rates). There’s also a camping ground beside the minbak village if you prefer to pitch a tent. The National Parks Information Centre is on the second floor of the bus terminal. It’s useful to stop there first to pick up maps, get weather updates and send off emails on PCs available here for tourists.

Source:
Juwangsan National Park Information brochure produced by the National Parks Authority
http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264150


For more info, contact: JNP office
Tel 054-873-0015
Email: chuwang@npa.or.kr
Homepage: www.npa.or.kr/chuwang

My Wish List – Andong Part 7

Here’s a list of the places I’d like to visit if I ever revisit Andong. It’s a convenient base to explore the following which are outside the city proper.

1. Bongjeong-sa

The tourist brochure claims that this temple has the oldest wooden structure in Korea in its Geungnakjeon ( Paradise Hall). Curious as well about the unique wall painting style here called dancheong. Apparently the priest who founded this temple folded a paper crane, cast it to the winds and decided to set up a new temple at the site where the crane landed.

Quaint legend aside, my main reason for wanting to visit this place is to check out Yeongsan-am, a nearby hermitage. It was part of the shooting location for a film that continues to intrigue me: “Why Did Bodhidharma Go To The East?” A climb up Cheongdeunsan (574 m), the hill behind this temple, would also be nice.

Travel Tip: Take local Bus No. 51 which runs every 1½ hours from the front of Andong City Hall to Bongjeong-sa (16 km north-west of Andong)

2. Dosan Seowon

This Confucian school is probably more famous than the Byeongsan Seowon ( see blog dated  Sept 18) and it’s reputed to be so beautiful that many film directors come here to shoot historical dramas like “Painter of the Wind”. The famous scholar, Yi Toe-gye whose face appears on the 1000-won note, established this academy in 1557. For a few hundred years, it was the most prestigious school in the land – the ancient equivalent of the SKY universities that modern Korean youths aspire to enter. Wonder if the Confucian students of the past had a more stressful time than their peers nowadays.

Travel Tip: Bus No 67 from Andong City Hall ( but do confirm with the bus driver as some don’t go all the way to the seowon. You’d need to walk the extra 2 km if that’s the case but the Lonely Planet assures readers of a pleasant jaunt.

3. Cheongnyang-san Provincial Park

Cheongnyang-san lends its name to three places actually – the mountain ( 870 m ), the provincial park, and the biggest temple here. According to the Lonely Planet, there are “ eleven other scenic peaks, eight caves and a waterfall…. The temple (sits) in a steep valley below the cliffs….The park boasts some spectacular views with tracks wandering along cliff precipices.” Sounds promising to me. I’d check into a minbak near the entrance to the park, stay overnight and explore the different trails as far as my legs and nerve will allow.

Travel Tip: The same bus ( No. 67) that goes to Dosan Seowon will continue its journey to the park entrance ( it plies this route every hour; trip takes about 1 hour and 15 mins).

4. Ginkgo tree at Yonggye-ri

Ironically this enormous tree is so close to the Jirye Art Village and yet I don’t think there’s a direct route to it. The literature claims that 14 people would be needed to encircle this tree which is 37 meters tall and has a diameter of 16 meters at its base. Like JAV, it was almost destroyed by the plans to build the Imha Dam but was successfully transplanted to its new home at the southern bank.
Travel Tip: Take Bus No 28 from Andong & get off at the Giran bus stop. After that, it looks like a loooong walk to find this tree. On second thought, hire a car.

5. Buyongdae
I first saw the high cliff of Buyongdae from a strip of sandy beach at Hahoe Village. Next time, I’d like to head straight to this place to view the village from this vantage point. A perfect time to visit would be when the villagers hold their Seonyu Julbulnori ( in October) when ropes of inflammable material are stretched across the river between Hahoe and Buyongdae for a special kind of fireworks show. There are also three buildings here to visit: Hwacheon Seowon, Ogyeonjeong-sa and Gyeomamjeong-sa.

Travel Tip: Get a car. Drive past the entrance to Hahoe Village, pass the Puncheon Agricultural Co-operative and then turn left at the Doyang three-way junction, to go across the Gwangduk-gyo ( Bridge). Follow the road that goes to the left.

For more info on bus schedules to the sights around Andong, please click here.
Source of Photos: KNTO website
Dosan Seowon http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=312772
Bongjeongsa  http://bongjeongsa2.templevill.com/intro/bojeongsa.swf
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=312775

Andong Hanji – Andong Part 6

It’s late in the day and we’re getting a little tired. But there’s one last stop on our day tour of Andong before our return to Jirye Art Village. The SUV rolls up in front of a nondescript building. It’s only when we’re taken inside that we realize we’ve been given an unexpected bonus –an inside look within  a traditional paper factory, Andong Hanji. Our sense of wonder returns as our  guide here explains to us Hanji ( paper)  is made.

The bark from mulberry bushes is processed to produce the famous Andong hanji. The inner white pulp of the bark is the most valued part. The water softened pulp can then be processed either by hand or machine. A gluey extract from the mallow plant is then used to hold the fibres together. Most impressed with women workers here who have to strip off with their bare fingers the papers which are dried almost instantly on very hot flat  ‘ironing boards’.  

The hanji, which varies considerably in thickness, colour and texture, can be used as calligraphy paper, print material for Confucian scholars, documents for official matters, coverings for walls and floors ( vegetable oil is applied for the yellow paper used on floors). The exhibition room also is a revelation – there’s an amazing range of products made from hanji, including dolls, lanterns, clothes & furniture.

Those who love gift wrapping, scrap booking or  doing paper crafts like origami, be forewarned – you can spend a long time and a lot of won at the hanji shop here! If you do have time to spare, you can take part in hands-on activities to make traditional masks, hats or books. The factory cum showroom is near the entrance of Hahoe Village so it’s worth checking out before or after your visit to the village.

Photo credits and  Links: KNTO website 
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=805345
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=309610

Hahoe Mask Museum – Andong Part 5

Autumn or fall is usually a great time to visit SK as there are many festivals celebrated in the harvest season. Unfortunately that’s not turning out to be the case this year. Call them party poopers or responsible leaders but the Korean officials or organizers don’t seem to be taking any chances and have been cancelling festivals, no thanks to the H1N1 scare. The latest victim of this trend in 2009 is the International Mask Dance Festival which Andong hosts each October.

The people of Hahoe are probably the most disappointed as their village is home to Major Intangible Cultural Asset No. 69: Hahoe Byeolsingut Talnori ( masked play). It has many functions: to entertain, appease the gods, pray for good harvests, exorcise evil spirits and to mock corrupt officials. Even if there aren’t many tourists to entertain this time, perhaps the masked performers could still perform the talnori to pray that the H1N1 scare will die down rapidly. Or it could satirize the tug of war between KNTO whose efforts to draw more tourists to Korea have been frustrated by the government which has been cancelling one festival after another.

If you’re determined to visit Andong this fall, you can find some consolation in the the Hahoe Mask Museum ( Hahoe-domg Tal). Its quite comprehensive collection has masks from around the world include fierce visages from Papua New Guinea, earthy ones from the African continent and ornately decorated ones from Venice. At least you can see here the wide range of Korean masks used in their folk dances and drama. You can also buy reproductions of masks at the museum gift shop. More explanatory notes in English would’ve been good but I guess the curators preferred to let the masks do the talking.

Source: KNTO webpage http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/GK/cms_list_3157.jsp?cid=682664

Fun & Games at Hahoe Maeul, Andong – Part 4

A dramatic avenue flanked on both sides by tall ginkgo trees leads from the parking lot to the village. There are more ginkgo trees with impressive heights within the village and in autumn they are a splendid sight. More busy taking photos of these than of the houses or other attractions in the village.

However, can’t resist taking a few shots at the Minsok-nori Park which has the highest swing I’ve ever seen. Certainly not something for toddlers and even high enough to give some ajummas vertigo.

Traditional games in Korea seem to favour the bold and the athletic. Even the see-saw here seems to be more a game for adults.

On the side facing the Buyongdae cliff, there’s a lovely stretch of sandy beach with a thin strip of pine trees as wind-breaker. There’s a special tradition called “Seonyu julbulnori” held every October here. A long knotted rope is hung across the river between the cliff and the beach and at intervals, some spectacular fireworks within each knot are ignited. At least, that’s what I think the notes in my tourist brochure means. Here’s the verbatim extract:

“It is a fire game to explode the fire at every knot. When fire knot in between Mansongjeong and Buyongdae in Hahoe maeul across the river is tied and lit, fire is exploded at every knot and fire on knots fall down and is co-ordinated with egg fire that creates magnificent view.” Go figure.

Link to video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-lB-0fFyto

Hahoe Maeul, Andong – Part 3

One can understand why Queen Elizabeth and millions of others have visited this place. 24 km west of Andong, Hahoe Village is nestled within the snug embrace of the Nakdong-gang (river), hence its name which means “Stream Winds”. Surrounded by the river on three sides, it’s the ideal place for agricultural activity unless the water levels rise suddenly. Wonder if the good people of Hahoe ever have the problem of flooding in summer.

In fact, the river and mountains that encircle the village have protected it from possible invasions. Hahoe is also special as a living traditional village; unlike the Korean Folk Village near Seoul which is a mere reproduction, Hahoe Maeul is the real deal. It’s more than 600 years old, has about 130 traditional houses here and many buildings are kept as they were during the Joseon Dynasty. The architecture of these houses belonging to aristocrats or farmers is all the more interesting because it’s a living open-air museum with 176 families still living and working there.

There are many minbaks offering homestay here so it’s a great place to stay a few days to soak in the rustic scenes and slow pace of life. Then you would have ample time to look over the low stone walls into the neighbouring houses which are still occupied – perhaps by some descendant of the Ryu clan that presides over this small community.

Links & credits:
http://www.tourandong.com/english/coding/sub1/sub1.asp

Snail Restroom in Andong – Part 2

On our second day at Jirye Art Village, we clamber into Mr Kim’s seven- seater SUV  and head off towards a handsome Confucian Academy ( seowon). There are two seowons in the outlying area near Andong.

Dosan Seowon, about 28 km north of Andong is the more famous school as those who aspired to become high officials in the government would study here and the entrance exams for would-be civil servants were held here. It also happens to be a favourite location for outdoor scenes for TV dramas like Painter of the Wind.

However, today, we’re visiting the other seowon, Byeongsan Seowon, west of Andong and just beside the river. The elevated pavilion, Mandae-ru, that overlooks the broad river is quite large and has impressive beams and columns.

The spaces between the smooth columns look like some folding screen – each with a slightly different scene. How on earth did the ancient scholars manage to concentrate on their studies with so much distracting beauty outdoors?

The steps leading up to this study pavilion are carved out of single logs without benefit of handrails so visitors with unsteady legs or a poor sense of balance may need a helping hand.

Check out the Dalpaeng-i Duitgan(snail restroom) - It's traditional hwajangshil which is  a curious snail shaped structure made of mud-stone walls with a curved entrance and passageway instead of the usual door. In other seowons, such restrooms were built from bamboo trees so luckily there's one at least made of longer-lasting stuff. It's also important enough to be ranked as historical monument No 206. Would enter  to see what the end looks like but not sure if someone is using it at the moment.

Links & sources of pics: http://www.byeongsan.net/english/sub1/sub2.asp
http://www.tourandong.com/english/coding/main.asp
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=313046