What's Happening to the Osaek Springs?

Enjoying the spring waters is one of the simple pleasures I always look forward to during my visits to Korea. ( See the earlier posting on the spring waters of Osaek in Soraksan and at  Naeso-sa. )

One approaches a zen-like moment when one partakes of the cool waters straight from the ground. Well, OK - visitors at Osaek spring No 2  usually had to use the plastic scoops instead of using their hands so it's not totally a primeval and rustic experience and those who wanted to taste the waters at Spring No 1 had to queue up in front of a stone tortoise which spouted out the spring waters. Still, it's a lot more fun than turning on the tap or opening up a plastic bottle of Perrier.

Koreans  may extol the virtues of this spring or that, citing its mineral contents being good for one ailment or another but personally, the appeal lies in getting up close and personal with nature while running the minimal risk of getting the runs.

So I was VERY sorry to read this recent report from the JoongAng Daily:


"At Osek Yaksu, which has been famous for its medicine water for 500 years, we found not the refreshing gusher we expected but a tiny trickle. Seven elderly ladies who had come from across the country to fill up on the yaksu were also disappointed. After an hourlong bus ride, each of them had to spend 40 minutes to fill one 1.8-liter bottle. According to the locals, the yaksu began to dry up after a large construction project started nearby."

James Hadley noted some construction going on in Osaek Creek when he visited the place in June 2007. The previous year, heavy rains had damaged Highway 44 and the work he observed was intended to create steep banks flanking Osaek Creek and to "grade the creek bed to a gradual profile with a flat cross section. In other words, either the creek was being largely converted into a canal, or previous canalization was being extensively repaired."

Hadley raised some important questions about the impact of the construction and I wonder if this particular project has anything to do with the spring waters or if another construction project is responsible for turning the Osaek spring into a sad trickle. Either way, I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the isutation is a temporary problem or if not, I really hope the locals can do something to ensure that the springs of Osaek will continue to refresh present and future generations of visitors. The best things in life used to be free but these days with nature under siege on so many fronts, we need to pay the price in terms of greater vigilance.

sources: http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=255513
http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2923178
http://pr.korean.net/eng/koview/koview_10.jsp
http://www.factplusfancy.com/pbw/kr/11/Osaek_Creek_Construction_Work_2007_06_23

Seduced By Maps

Ever been seduced by the promising look of maps? They lay out before you an array of national parks, towns, temples, beaches like a generous buffet of appetizers, main courses and desserts. Whenever I start planning a DIY tour of Korea, I tend to get greedy and want to cram as many places as possible into a few weeks of travel. Maybe less is more but most of these places are really small towns and the main attractions can be covered within a short time though the locals may disagree.

This was my itinerary during my 2007 trip ( 26th March - 7th April). All connections made by inter-city or local bus. It wasn’t too difficult learning the basic phrases to buy bus tickets at the bus stations because I had learnt to read Hanguel ( thank you again, King Sejong for devising such an easy to read writing system!)

26. 3 Arrived Incheon International Airport – Gyeryeongsan ( Donghaksa)
27. 3 Gyeryeongsan – Jinju ( via Daejeon)
28.3 Jinju – Jinhae ( via Masan )
29.3 Jinhae ( Cherry Blossom Festival )
30.3 Jinhae- Namhae ( Daraengi Village)
31.3 Daraengi – Boriam in Namhae
1.4 Boriam – Ssangyesa ( via Hadong)
2.4 Hadong – Namwon
3.4 Namwon – Maisan ( via Jinan)
4.4 Maisan ( Tapsa) - Naesosa ( in Byeonsanbando) via Buan
5.4 Naesosa - Gyeokpo ( in Byeonsanbando)
6.4 Gyeokpo – Seoul ( via Buan)
7.4 Seoul – Incheon International Airport

Next post: Namwon!

A Stroll Along Anmin Road

Thanks to a kind ajumma who gave me a ride to the start of Anmin Road in Jinhae, I was able to realise another modest dream of mine. Eversince I saw the road lined with cherry blossoms in the drama series, Romance, I was set on seeing the place for myself.

Anmin Road , perched on the shoulder of the small mountain range, gives one a pretty good view of the city below. There were plenty of Koreans and a few foreign tourists on the promenade and I remember an elderly gentleman enjoying the spring air with his dog. Turns out that's his daily walk. Lucky man, lucky pooch.

Suggested Itinerary for Chasing the Cherry Blossoms

Here's the schedule from the KNTO webpage. If you plan on chasing the cherry blossoms, start south obviously and work your way north. Some places I'd recommend for cherry blossoms:

1. around 25th or 26th March, Jinhae

2. around 27th or 28th, Hadong though the festival is from the 2nd - 4th of April. ( don't take my word for it; call the organisers!)

3. around 2nd April, Maisan

4. around 6th April, Yeouido in Seoul

Jjimjilbang In Jinhae

Figured with the hordes of tourists descending on Jinhae for the cherry blossom festival, that the usual local BnBs would be full up and the prices jacked up. On that assumption, I decided I wouldn’t even bother to check out the yeogwans or minbaks and made straight for a 24 hour jjim - jil-bang ( 24 hour public bath cum sauna cum relaxation area where I could also sleep for a fee). This option had a few drawbacks though:

1. Location – it wasn’t central; in fact it was on the eastern side of the town. Had to take a twenty-minute bus ride from the town centre and get off near a shopping mall which housed the jjimjilbang. I’m sorry I didn’t note down the bus number or the name and exact location of the jjimjilbang. However it was within walking distance of the eastern end of the famous Anmin Road ( give or take 30 minutes)

2. The jjimjilbang was also quite crowded but I was mentally prepared to share sleeping floor space with seventy or so Koreans. What I didn’t expect was that we’d be woken up in the middle of the night ( or was it early morning?) by a pair of women arguing fiercely. It was a bit difficult going back to sleep after that.

3. Once I paid the entrance fee of 7000 won and entered the place, I had to be sure that my sightseeing activities were done for the day. Unless I was prepared to fork out another 7000 won, I couldn’t go out again. So it required a bit of planning and a lot of lugging of my backpack the first day I arrived in Jinhae because I was busy catching the sights before I took the bus to the jjimjilbang. Fortunately for me, some kind ajummas in the small restaurant inside the place kindly agreed to look after my bag on the second day so I was spared the trouble of hauling my load all over the town again.

The benefits?

First it only cost me 7000 won per night ( cheaper than a yeogwan or minbak which would have set me back anything between 30,000 and 150,000won a night and the entrance fee wasn’t not jacked up for the 2007 festival). For that modest sum, I had the opportunity to soak my weary carcass in tubs of hot water and to sweat some toxins in various sauna rooms with various temperatures and theme. I could also do my laundry and hang my washing on a line in the ladies’ bathing area, check and send emails in the ubiquitous mini-PC bang facilities, watch the latest TV drama sprawled out on the floor beside similarly-dressed Koreans and enjoy a bowl of bibimbap or naengmyeon in the in-house café.

Biggest plus? The nice lady who ran the eating joint even offered to give me a ride to the western end of Anmin Road the following day!

I wouldn’t recommend doing this if you’re not prepared for some inconvenience and some roughing it out ( no comfy mattresses!) but it is certainly something to consider for a more authentic local experience.
Sources:
http://www.jaunted.com/country/kp/2
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=626600
http://id.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jjimjilbang

Gyeokpo in Byeonsanbando

Spent the second last night of my 2007 trip to Korea in a small seaside town called Gyeokpo. It was easy enough to board the bus from Naeso-sa on the southern side of  Byeonsanbando on the west coast of Korea and only slightly more challenging to find a yeogwan that suited my taste  ( sea view, of course!) and budget ( under 30,000 won).

photo credit: Kim Byung-joon

The weather was good for a leisurely stroll around the small port-town which has a small supermarket, a small amusement park which has been better days, and many small seafood restaurants. It was more interesting walking down to the small lighthouse and back again, passing a long line of pojang-macha lookalikes except these were plying all kinds of fresh seafood.

photo credit: Kim Byung-joon

Actually I'd come here out of curiosity about Chaeseokgang, the cliff with slabs of rock that resembled a pile of books. Have to admit my curiosity was satisfied too quickly within five minutes. But I did spend more time in the seafood stalls,  poring over the variety of sea creatures available for one's gustatory pleasure or adventure. Click here for a video on autumn in Buan ( production of KBS World Radio); the video has some footage of Chaeseokgang amongst other things.

Getting to Gyeokpo: You can take an express bus to Buan from the Seoul Express Bus Terminal ( bus service available 15 times a day; approximately 3 & 1/2 hours). There're also the same number of buses from Jeonju Bus Terminal. From Buan Bus Terminal, you can board regular or deluxe buses to reach Gyeokpo.

Grave of Yi Hyang-geum a.k.a Mae-chang

Footnote: Came across a poet who's a local of Buan, the main town that connects Byeonsanbando with Seoul. Yi Hyang-geum or Maechang ( 1573- 1610) was a well-known ginyeo. That's a highly-educated female entertainer from the lower classes who performed for the nobility. Here's one of her poems:

All the world loves to fish yet I choose the harp,

Only today do I realise the hardships of life

Three times ashamed for missing my chance with two feet severed

In Hyeongsan I weep with jade rock in my arms.

The missing feet suggest the traditional punishment for a criminal while the story of the jade rock refers to a real person who, unfortunately, received such a sentence when the king refused to believe his claim that he was carrying a piece of jade. What I find interesting is the ambiguous tone of the poem - does the poet regret her choices in life or is she patting herself on the back for her noble values?

sources:

http://www.waymarking.com/gallery/image.aspx?f=1&guid=58f3e460-0f18-4db2-8ae9-8c3926e19cb8&lat=35.726683&lon=126.736733&t=4&id=Bus%20Station%20Car%20Wash%20%20-%20%20Buan,%20Korea

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yi_Maechang
http://www.seoulselection.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=1549&category_id=66&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=53
http://books.google.com.my/books?id=K17mLqrKA40C&dq=Yi+Maechang&source=gbs_navlinks_s
http://www.ocp.go.kr:9000/ne_pro_search/content_view.cgi?AC=00007128&mode=1&v_db=2&v_disp_type=4
http://www.ocp.go.kr:9000/ne_dasencgi/full.cgi?v_kw_str=&v_db_query=A4%3A35&v_db=2&v_doc_no=00007128&v_dblist=2&v_start_num=451&v_disp_type=4saeng
http://www.ocp.go.kr:9000/ne_dasencgi/full.cgi?v_kw_str=&v_db_query=A4%3A35&v_db=2&v_doc_no=00007128&v_dblist=2&v_start_num=451&v_disp_type=4
http://wiki.galbijim.com/Ki

The Poetic World of Classic Korean Women Writers by Lee Hai-soon ( Ewha Womens University Press, 2005)

Not Much To Do In Buan Cine Theme Park

While the Buan Cine Theme Park is intended primarily as a movie studio for historic dramas and isn't meant as an amusement park like Universal Studios, it has also opened its doors to tourists, assuming there are many who'd want to check out the shooting locations for movies like "The King and The Clown" and "Hwangjinyi" ( not to be confused with the TV drama series starring Ha Ji-won).

I was one of the suckers who thought that the place was worth a look-see. The only good thing I dare say was that I burnt a few calories walking from Gyeokpo to find the Buan Cine Theme Park. It was a fine spring day and I thought I'd save bus or cab fare. I should've saved my time and visited the Monkey School instead ( no, not that either as I dislike seeing most animals perform silly tricks).

Reason I was disappointed? There wasn't anything going on. Just the reproductions of a Joseon dynasty palace, yangban's mansions, craftsmen's shops and farmers' quarters etc. standing there in the mid-day heat. I guess I was naively hoping against hope that I could see a movie or drama in the process of being shot. No such luck. A ghost-town would have more personality compared to the BCTP.   Ok to be fair to the place, perhaps I didn't go under the best of circumstances. Here are some suggestions on how to make the most of your visit there if you insist on going there.

1. Go in a group. This isn't the place for solo travellers. It only accentuates the empty solitude with only the video of "The King and the Clown" playing continuously for company. Better still, go with friends who've seen the movie umpteenth times and reenact your fav scenes from the movie.

2. Rent a costume ( take your pick of king, clown, eunuch or palace maidservant) and digicam yourself or each other in different sort of ridiculous poses all over the open-air studio.

3. Invite other tourists to watch your impromptu street performance and ask them to rate your acting or mime skills. ( Mask not obligatory but useful to mask your blushes if you're only capable of ham acting!)

4. You probably wouldn't be allowed on the high wire but you could draw an imaginary line in the sand and test your ability to tippy-toe across while pretending to be an old-time acrobat.

5. Try your hand at archery, horse-riding or simply strutting your stuff around the fake village while keeping your fingers crossed for any KBS talent-spotter who might just happen to be around. Who knows, this might just  get you your big break in Hallyuwood OR, better still, rent the DVD and stay indoors to salivate over the performances of Gam Woo Seong, Lee Jun Ki and Jeong Jin Yeong for the sixteenth time.

About other shooting locations:

MBC TV drama series, Queen Seondoek

sources:

http://www.korea.net/News/news/newsView.asp?serial_no=20071214022&part=108&SearchDay=

http://www.koreanwiz.org/at/tripC58.html
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=647808
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_King_and_the_Clown
http://www.asiatorrents.com/details.php?id=23d4dbc711feee785a1f15fb5f398d45d8bd5698
http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=260486
http://www.korea.net/kois/magazine/pictorialKoreaView.asp?Html_no=386
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/OO/OO_EN_13_1_2.jsp?cid=347386
http://www.knto.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264521&nearBy=accom&
http://www.wang-ui-namja.com/behind_philosophy.htm
http://english.tour2korea.com/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=309586

To Go OR Not To Go In Winter - Letter for Christina

A reader from Malaysia who's never experienced winter wants to know if it's a good time to visit Korea. Here's my extended reply:

source: Yonhap News - http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/news/news_photo_detail.htm?No=14528

Dear Christina,
Here's my two cents on whether or not to visit Korea in winter. First, let me play devil's advocate and list some reasons why it may not be the best time to go.

1. It's too freaking cold to go out especially if you're from a sunny clime unless of course you're a tougher cookie than I am

2. Your travel plans may be hampered by snowstorms which have delayed flights, cancelled ferries and slowed down trains and buses.

3. You won't have so many hours of daylight to travel around to enjoy the sights

4. You'll blow your travel budget on cups of hot coffee or soups to keep yourself warm

5. Your complexion will suffer because of the extreme dry air but you can't pack a full bottle of face cream in a post 9-11 world with tighter airport security

Now, here are some reasons why winter's a good time to travel to Korea:

1. It's a great place to learn skiing. I read somewhere that even Russians, who obviously have more snow, prefer to ski in Korea because of the wonderful facilities.

2. You can take part in many winter festivals which seem to be a great deal of fun for both the participants and observers.

3.  I like to ask Koreans that I met about their favourite season and quite a number cite winter as their preferred time of year.Why? Answers range from the chance to get decked out in winter woolies, to the outdoor sports to one person's reply which is the most intriguing, " I love the smell of winter". Go to check out for yourself why so many would fall in love with this season.

So, Christina, if you've got your heart set on experiencing winter, here are a few humble suggestions from a not-so-seasoned traveller ( when it comes to winter, that is!):

a. travel in a tour group instead of braving it as a solo traveller. That way, the burden of ensuring you're warm and safe falls on the shoulders of the experienced Korean tour guide who should know how to deal with delays

b. Layer, layer, layer - instead of packing four winter jackets into your luggage, just wear layers. The same goes for your feet and legs. Ask around before investing in a suitable pair of shoes.

c. head straight for the supermarket as soon as you touch down in Korea to look for handy hand-warmers and naeboks. For an article on naeboks, click here.

d. carry a thermos flask so you can have your own coffee/ tea/ hot beverage wherever you go.

e. learn the basic Korean words  such as snow storm, blizzard, minus 40 temperatures, etc. to listen out for weather forecasts on the local telly or radio

Cheers and happy travelling!
ajumma

A Very Short Checklist to Things to Look Out For, Naksan-sa Part 3

Here's a brief list of things to look out for when you're visiting Naksan-sa in Gangwon-do:

1. Translation is such a tricky business – couldn’t help raising my eyebrows when I first saw Wontongbojeon of Naksan-sa translated as “Hall of Complete Penetration”. Ahem. How about “Hall of Profound Insight”? or “Hall of Thorough Enlightenment”? Not quite the same, is it?

2. The Arched Gate was built the same year as the pagoda. Legend has it that 26 stones, each contributed by the magistrates of the 26 towns in the area made up the main building materials.

3. Naksan –sa is home to National Treasure No 499. It’s a 6.2 metre- high, 7-storey pagoda (Chilcheung Seoktap ) built in 1467. A Buddhist rosary and magic beads are reputed to be stored within this Goryeo- style pagoda with a distinctive single square base with 24 stone lotus petals. For comparisons with a Shilla style pagoda, click here.

4. According to another legend, a red lotus blossomed in the sea while Uisang, the founder of Naksan-sa conducted his week-long prayers. Eventually Hongryeon-am ( “Red Lotus Hermitage”) was built near the cave he used for his meditation- by- the -ocean sessions.

I was poking my head into the tiny hermitage for a quick look around when a kind ajumma, who had just finished her 108 prostrations, lifted up a 10 cm square from the wooden floor to show me the crashing waves beneath. Perhaps it was designed to show the cave where Uisang had meditated or maybe the present-day monks liked to chant to the rhythm of the waves.

Sources

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naksansa#2005_fire_and_reconstruction

http://www.buddhapia.com/buddhapi/eng/temple/korexp/html/bu11.html
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=312871
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=309343
http://english.triptokorea.com/english/viewtopic.php?t=5925
http://eng.koreatemple.net/travel/view_temple.asp?temple_id=32
http://www.koreanbuddhism.net/jokb/press/view.asp?article_seq=5865&page=1&search_key=&search_value=
http://www.knto.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264186&nearBy=site&
http://www.kimsch.net/flash/dream-en.swf
http://www.land.go.kr/gTra.do?tra=enudestination&cid=3204
http://german.visitkorea.or.kr/ger/SI/SI_GE_3_1_1_2.jsp?cid=335521

The Ultimate Compassionate Lady, Naksan-sa Part 2

Let’s start with the vital statistics. He/ She is an immortal but this particular version is 33 years old this year. Weighing 700 tons, he/ she stands 15 meters (49 feet) tall on top of a 2.8- meter ( 9 –foot) pedestal on the grounds of Naksan-sa, facing the East Sea. He / She is made of white granite. His/ Her eyes and mouth are closed in an expression of perfect serenity.

She has many names: Avalokitesvara Bodhisattva (Gwaneumbosal),

Haesugwaneumsang (Bodhisattva of Mercy); she's a central figure in Mahayana Buddhism

Others elsewhere like him/her are shown with four, six or even a thousand hands with eyes in the palms to represent the all-seeing and compassionate nature. Here, though, the left hand bears a vessel with holy water while the right hand is shaped in a meditative mudra. Neither male nor female, Gwaneum-Bosal is, nevertheless, known as the Goddess of Mercy, a.k.a. Haesugwaneumsang ( 해수관음입상, Bodhisattva of Mercy).

Busan sculptor Gwon Jeong-hwan (권정환) takes the credit for this impressive sculpture.

The inspiration to build a temple at Naksan came at a difficult time in Korean history. The Shilla kings were desperately trying to ward off attacks by the Tang Dynasty emperors of China. Grand Master, Uisang Daesa, an emissary of the 30th king of the Shilla Period, had just completed his Buddhist studies in China and was meditating near a cave reputed to be the abode of Gwaneum-bosal. Legend has it that the Bodhisattva instructed him to erect a temple at the same spot. Since then, generations of devotees have been making their way to this temple dedicated to Gwaneum-Bosal to make their pleas for divine assistance known.

Gwanum-bosal can be found on a hillock in the background of this pic.

There are only two other places in Korea where one can pray to Gwanum-bosal: Bori-am in Namhae and Bomun-sa in Ganghwa-do. Busloads of pious ajummas in particular can be seen praying at these temples while Naksan-sa is also a popular spot to welcome the first sunrise of the New Year, whether one follows the Gregorian or Chinese lunar calendar.

The Goddess of Mercy in Bori-am, Namhae

Sourceshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naksansa#2005_fire_and_reconstruction
http://www.buddhapia.com/buddhapi/eng/temple/korexp/html/bu11.html
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=312871
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=309343
http://english.triptokorea.com/english/viewtopic.php?t=5925
http://eng.koreatemple.net/travel/view_temple.asp?temple_id=32
http://www.koreanbuddhism.net/jokb/press/view.asp?article_seq=5865&page=1&search_key=&search_value=http://www.knto.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264186&nearBy=site&http://www.kimsch.net/flash/dream-en.swf
http://www.land.go.kr/gTra.do?tra=enudestination&cid=3204
http://german.visitkorea.or.kr/ger/SI/SI_GE_3_1_1_2.jsp?cid=335521

Baekdamsa Revisited, Part 1

It's not a state secret but I'm still loathe to write about Baekdamsa. I'd like to keep this place selfishly  to myself but who am I kidding? The place that I visited in autumn, 2004 has probably changed a lot. Besides, who was it who said you can't step into the same river twice?

Baekdamsa, Temple of a Hundred Pools, lies in a quiet north-western corner of Soraksan. "Quiet" is a relative term - it's spared the massive crowds that descend on the main section of this popular national park but at the same time, don't be surprised to see a long line of people along this bridge that leads to the temple. Busloads of ajummas and local tourists can make this place quite noisy at times but if you head out for the trails, it's easy to think that you may be the only visitor.

Then again, the piles upon piles of stones built by past visitors remind me that I'm just one of countless visitors who have been fortunate enough to make our way to this place.

Here's another pic to put one in a solitary mood - can only imagine the beauty of the wintry solitude in Baekdamsa. Whichever season you choose, do check the shuttle bus schedules that takes passengers from the village of Yongdae-ri to Baekdamsa ( 3.5 km, 2,000 won). I arrived by a local bus from Sokcho and just missed the last shuttle bus in the late afternoon so had to spend one night in Yongdae-ri as I wasn't prepared to lug my backpack for that distance. On hindsight though, I should have not spent the night in Yongdae-ri. Not that it was hard to find a decent yeongwan but the walk would've given me more time to count the pools along the way.

Here's an alternative route: At Inje Terminal, take a bus to Wontong or Jinburyeong and get off at Yongdae-ri. (40 minute interval, Runs 20 times a day)

sources:
http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264231
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baekdamsa
http://www.koreanculture.org/06about_korea/symbols/09seoraksan.htm

Jeonju Wish List - Jeonju Part 8

Here's my wish list for Jeonju if I get to revisit it!

a. Stay in  the Hanok Village for at least one night so I can do a leisurely, DIY walking tour of the place.
Didn't have enough time when I visited Jeonju back in 2003 with a tour group as we had spent almost the whole day at the Jeonju Traditional Cultural Centre. Here's a list within a list of places I'd like to check out in the Hanok Village which evolved as a kind of patriotic response to the Japanese occupation when the traditional Korean houses were in danger of being overwhelmed by Japanese style homes:

i. Gang Am Calligraphy Gallery - it' s hard to believe that this is the only calligraphy gallery in the country.My main interest here would be the paintings of  Dan Won also known as Kim Hong Do whose works were featured in the SBC TV drama, Painter of the Wind.


ii. The Jeonju Traditional Oriental Herb Culture Center, found on the Wooseok University campus. You may be able to get a traditional physician's analysis of your physical condition but I'm more intrigued by the prospect of  the Building Hanok Experience in the Outdoor Experience Yard ( do they really mean an honest-to-goodness hanok or just a miniature version?) if that's not possible, I'll settle for a herbal footbath.

iii.   Jeonju Traditional Hanji Center  & The Jeonju Craftworks Exhibition Hall - the Jeonju Hanok website mentions another activity which I'd love to do i.e.dyeing clothes using yellow soil water ( stupidly used to think they used persimmon juice!)

Where's the best bibimbap in town?

b. Sample all the best restaurants renowned for bibimbap and omogary

Omogary means earthernware pot and a delicious spicy seafood stew is usually served in it.

Jeonju's home to the Dano Festival as well as other festivals.

c. Visit the place during its various festivals such as the Film Festival and the Sori Festival.


d. Try making paper and admire the exhibits at the Paper Museum.

e. Hanbyukdang is a pavilion built in 1404 as the private cottage of Choi Dam, a high-ranking government official in the early Joseon Dynasty. It was built by breaking and sculpting a cliff on the skirts of Mt Seungam. People in old days called it “Han beok chung yun A” and regarded it as one of the finest eight sights to see in Jeonju. Hanbyeokdang is a pavilion with an octagonal roof, with 3 units in front and 2 units on the sides. It is located towards Namwon from Hanok village, and was built in 1404 (4th year of King Taejong) by Choi Dam. There is a cave underneath the Hanbyukdang, where there are still dome holes made by bombs during the Korean War.





sources:
http://hanok.jeonju.go.kr/FLSite/default.aspx

http://hanok.jeonju.go.kr/FLSite/ContentView.aspx?menuID=2&subID=7
http://tour.jeonju.go.kr/open_content/english/tour/noted_place/local/list.jsp
http://tour.jeonju.go.kr/open_content/english/tour/food/hanokmaeul.jsp
http://tour.jeonju.go.kr/open_content/english/tour/food/omogary.jsp
http://tour.jeonju.go.kr/open_content/english/culture/festival/dano_arts_festival.jsp
http://www.sorifestival.com/

How To Look At A King - Jeonju, Part 4

Used to think that portraits weren’t as interesting as landscape paintings or sketches of folk scenes. But after watching the SBS drama, Painter of the Wind, I’m now more inclined to give this genre more than a cursory glance.  Pity that I hadn't seen the drama series before I visited Gyeonggijeon in Jeonju. I would've spent a more enriching time there if I had known the following earlier:

Royal portraits ( eojin or ojin) were particularly important during the Joseon Dynasty as it had embraced the Confucianist tradition of ancestral worship. The Joseon kings had their visages depicted in portraits as a way of representing their “aspirations for the perpetuation of their dynasty”. When ordinary citizens bowed before the portrait of the king, it was as good as pledging allegiance to him. That's why Yi Song-gye, a.k.a. King Taejo, founder of the Joseon Dynasty, sought to validate his rise to power by a coup d’etat by commissioning no less than fourteen official portraits.

 Here's what I've gathered so far about the do's and don'ts of admiring portraits of the royalty in Korea.
 

1. DON'T march up to the shrine and hop over the low hurdle as if you're about to say Howdy to King Taejo. Instead, approach the shrine INDIRECTLY as a sign of respect. I guess eyeballing the royal portrait head-on  is a no-no as it can be interpreted as a sign of impertinence. That's why that low barricade is there in front of the entrance - to signal to visitors that they need to approach the portrait in an oblique fashion by using the side entrances.

2. Observe first the backdrop of the portrait. According to an article in the Spring 2006 edition of Koreana,  the "panels depicting the sun, moon and five peaks..( are) in accordance with the traditional practice.... In this way, the portrait of Taejo is being respected as if he were still the ruling sovereign". Strange thing is - I can't see any moon or mountains? We could be talking about different copies of portraits - the artists tended to make changes according to trends or personal preferences whenever they made reproductions so copies were never fully alike.

Also, the contrast between the simple lines of the figure and the details in the clothes, throne and carpet are intended to underscore the "authority and dignity of the king".

 

3. Note the position of the subject in the portrait. In most Joseon Dynasty portraits, the subject is seated at an angle but one has a straight-forward view of King Taejo. Some experts believe the perspective was meant to set him apart from the rest as the founder of the Joseon Dynasty.

4. Next, pay attention to the black headpiece perched on the head of the monarch. The ikseongwan has flaps sticking out from the back which symbolize a cicada's wings. Its "piercing sound is said to be expressive of sovereign dignity and its metamorphosis a symbol of rebirth".

5. Consider now the emperor's clothes...oops.. I mean, the king's clothes. He's decked out in blue ( "a carry-over influence of the Goryeo-style protraits") unlike late Joseon kings who preferred red.

6. Finally, take a close look at the face of King Taejo. Look out particularly for the mole above his right eyebrow. Portrait painters were careful to present unidealised faces of their sitters as the complexion reflected the personality of the subject. Verisimilitude of visage was so important to the Joseon kings that King Yongjo proclaimed that if a single strand of hair in the painting was different from the original, he would not consider that portrait to represent his ancestor.

So the scars, moles, pockmarks and other distinctive facial features had to be depicted as accurately as possible by the Joseon painters. Indeed, so faithful were they that Dr Lee Sung-nak was able to present a research paper, " An Analysis Of Skin Ailments Shown In The Portraits of the Chosun Dynasty"!

 Note: All quotes here are from Koreana, Spring 2006 edition.

Source:
http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/art/2009/12/148_7813.html
http://www.clickkorea.org/arts/curator/file/2-2_Portraits%20of%20the%20Choson%20Dynasty.pdf
http://koreana.kf.or.kr/pdf_file/1992/1992_AUTUMN_E034.pdf

Naejangsan "Revisited" In Winter

Promised someone that I'd post a pic of Naejangsan in winter so am glad to have found one. Here' s a pic of the entrance to the famous national park. Looks like a pretty white bower to stroll beneath while the snow's fresh and crunchy to the feet.

Pic credit:
Yonhap News

Gamsa-hamnida to Some Denizens of Danyang

A VERY BIG THANK YOU to Mr Ko Jong-gyu at the Danyang Tourist Information Booth. We’d stopped by there to get more information and fortunately for us, it was the low season and you were spending the time in the most exemplary fashion by studying Japanese. We were lucky that you were free and offered to take us around in your car to show us some of the sights in Danyang.

Without you, we wouldn’t have seen the murals of Kuan Yin, the Goddess of Mercy in one temple, had our photo taken with the Three Peaks ( Dodamsambong ) and had our first taste of a memorable samgyetang ( stuffed chicken with ginseng). You were even so kind and patient as to drive me back to the restaurant the following day to retrieve a missing glove. Once again, Chong-mal Gamsa-hamnida!

Also want to thank a friendly elderly couple whom we met along the footpaths of the Daeseongsan, the park on the hill just behind Danyang town. Gamsa-hamnida for your very pleasant company as you let us join you on your daily exercise route round the hill and for pointing out to us various landmarks.

Gamsa- Hamnida to Some Gentlefolk of Gyeongju

To Certain Gentlefolk of Gyeongju,

First of all, thank you to our hosts in Sarangchae ( 054-773 4868) for maintaining a traditional-style house and renting out rooms for tourists.

My friend and I had flown into Ulsan from Jeju, just missed the shuttle bus by a minute or so (a warning to fellow travellers not to be tardy) and so arrived in Gyeongju late in the evening. So it was a relief to plonk ourselves into the cosy beds in your guesthouse and bask in the charming atmosphere of a bygone time.

At the same time, you thoughtfully provided your guests with modern amenities such as free Internet access and a kitchen in which we could fix ourselves a quick supper of instant noodles.

Unfortunately traditional style living dictates that the bathroom and toilet facilities are located away from the sleeping quarters and we weren’t prepared to continue to trudge the distance in the chilly early winter evening. So in the end, I’m sorry to admit that we decided to change to another place with zero physical charm but all the practical convenience of an attached bathroom.

But now it’s my turn to say Mian-hamnida to Mr Kwon Young-joung, the friendly proprietor of Hanjin-jang Yeogwan (tel 771 4096). The plainness and unmemorable appearance of his yeogwan is offset by the warm reception and farewell we got at his place – Gansa-hamnida to you, Mr Kwon, for the lovely chopstick tokens you presented us when we said goodbye to you. Sorry we missed your home-made entertainment ( do you really have performing scorpions?) but thank you for placing the reproduction of the Emile Bell at your reception counter. If I hadn’t had a chance to fall in love with its sound, I wouldn’t have bought my own replica at the Bulguksa souvenir shop.


Finally, CHONG-MAL GAMSA-HAMNIDA to a kind anonymous ajumma who helped us when we got lost somewhere on the streets of Gyeongju city. We stopped you, a complete stranger, simply hoping that you would point out the right direction to take to get back to our yeogwan. Instead you signalled that we should follow you into your car. We were completely floored when you actually drove us back right to the doorstep of Hanjin-jang. Maybe your kindness was prompted by the fact that you reckoned it was less convenient to tell us where to go ( given our very scanty Korean and your limited English) or perhaps it was out of national pride that Koreans take good care of foreign visitors. I’d like to think it was one of the many spontaneous acts of hospitality that I’ve experienced with your fellow citizens as you were so matter-of-fact about the whole matter.

Yours gratefully,
A non-Korean ajumma

sources:
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=398684&nearBy=site
http://www.flickr.com/photos/globalismpictures/1534962452/

Where Will You Welcome The First Sunrise of 2010?

Koreans have a charming custom of welcoming the new year by waiting or waking up for the first sunrise on the first of January. A number of Koreans would probably make their way to places like Ganjeulgot, Ulsan ( the first place in Korea to witness the sun rise) or Seongsan Ilchulbong in Jeju.

Those who wish for an early start to the New Year could go instead to Homigot in Pohang as 2010 is the Year of the Tiger according to the Chinese calendar. Homigot is dubbed the “Tiger’s Tail” as it’s located at the tip of the Korean Peninsula which has been compared to a tiger standing on its hind legs. Pohang’s also celebrating its 60th anniversary as a municipal city and a special steel sculpture in the form of a tiger will be revealed at midnight on 31 December, 2009.

If I were in Korea on 31 December 2009, I’d like to find my way to on top of Mount Geumo near Yeosu to the place where Hyangilam stood until very recently when it was a victim of a fire. Sadly, Hyangilam (“the temple facing the sun” directly translated ) no longer exists as one of the top four meditation sites in the country.

Why go to a place which is probably still reeking of ashes? If you’re the kind who prefers a little more solitude than noisy merriment, there’s a good chance you wouldn’t have any crowds to contend with up on Geumosan, for starters. Second, the many camellia bushes should still be there, as would the great views of the South Sea. Finally and above all, I can’t think of a better place symbolically to let go of past griefs and pray for healing and restoration in the new year.

So if you are an experienced hiker with a strong pair of legs and a strong heart, and are not deterred by the recent tragedy, you can expect to greet the sun at 7:36 am there. Just don’t forget to send me some photos of the place and say a little prayer for all of us. Thanks in advance and a Happy New Year to you!

source:
http://festival.ipohang.org
http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/art/2009/10/203_36737.html

Top Ten Things To Do At Gyeongju - A Personal Must-Do List

Here's my LIST OF THINGS TO DO WHEN I REVISIT GYEONGJU

( Gyeongju's own website http://eguide.gj.go.kr/)

Not so easy to seek  serenity in Seokguram if there are hundreds beside you with the same intent?

1. Catch the first rays of sunrise from Seokguram or at least from the top of Tohamsan. Soak in the peace and serenity in the grotto before the tourist hordes descend onto this place and finally, continue a meditative walk down to Bulguksa. Hopefully this helpful chart for sunrise times will be updated. The walk up is apparently steep and takes a few hours so I'm keeping my fingers crossed that I can wake up early enough to get a cab or better still, see if hermitage will allow visitors to stay overnight.

I'd like to ask the guide,  for example,  why these steps in Bulguksa are called the staircase of 48 desires.

 2. Buy a proper guidebook or get an English-speaking guide to point out all the important features of Bulguksa. For earlier postings on Bulguksa, please click here and here.

3. Trek up the Namsan Skyway, low mountain south of Gyeongju which is chockful of Shilla relics ( tombs, statues, pavilions, pagodas, temples). The Lonely Planet promises “an exhilarating experience” exploring the various trails. source: http://www.sherwinvjones.com/gyeongjublog/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/Namsan-English-New-Map-150ppi.gif

The pond is dry and so is my inspiration?

4. Seek inspiration to compose sijo without benefit of soju at Poseokjeongji, the pond in a banquet garden where Shilla kings enjoyed conjuring up poems in contests while drinking. Poseokjeongji is the only banquet garden left in the world. Pity the water source has been cut off. Would've been fun to see how long the drinking cups take to float from one end to the other of  the abalone-shaped stream.

5. Take a day-trip out to Yangdong Folk Village, a village which has existed since the Yi dynasty ( 15th and 16th centuries). Many traditional houses are still occupied by the descendants of the yangban ( aristocracy).

pic source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Korea-Gyeongju-Yangdong.Village.jpg

pic source: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/d1/View_of_Gyeongju-Korea-01.jpg

6. Stroll around Bomun Lake especially in spring when cherry trees which line the road around it are in full bloom. Also, have an outdoor picnic while watching traditional dances at the Bomun Outdoor Performance Theater near the TIC there.

Hopefully the museum displays also have explanatory notes in clear English

7. Visit the Shilla History Hall of Science a.k.a. Shilla Museum of Art and Science  which has models of Seokguram and Cheomseongdae amongst other exhibits.

Many scenes for MBC's historical drama, Queen Seondeok were shot at the Shilla Millennium Park

8. Try some of the rides and watch the performances at the Shilla Millennium Park, an amusement park with a distinctively Shilla appearance although replicas of  Constantinople, Baghdad, Changan (present-day Xian) are also featured. "The floating stage symbolizes the seas through which the four cities conducted trade and exchanges, while the land stage represents the Silk Road, the ancient over-land trading route." Also plan to enjoy the foot spa using hot spring water before cooling off with an ice-cream  in the replica of Seokbinggo, the Shilla ice-room. Must also check out the cafeteria in the Emile Tower in the park which is built in the shape of the Emile Bell. For more info, click here.

9. Spend time contemplating in Oksan Seowon, a Confucian academy ( like the Doseon Seowon near Andong). The Lonely Planet describes it as having “sublime setting surrounded by shade trees and overlooking a stream with a waterfall and rock pools”.

10. Buy Hwangnam-bang  – the popular local pastry filled with red-bean paste. Absolutely delicious when freshly baked.  Great snack to chomp on while clambering over Namsan Skyway.