My Wish List – Andong Part 7

Here’s a list of the places I’d like to visit if I ever revisit Andong. It’s a convenient base to explore the following which are outside the city proper.

1. Bongjeong-sa

The tourist brochure claims that this temple has the oldest wooden structure in Korea in its Geungnakjeon ( Paradise Hall). Curious as well about the unique wall painting style here called dancheong. Apparently the priest who founded this temple folded a paper crane, cast it to the winds and decided to set up a new temple at the site where the crane landed.

Quaint legend aside, my main reason for wanting to visit this place is to check out Yeongsan-am, a nearby hermitage. It was part of the shooting location for a film that continues to intrigue me: “Why Did Bodhidharma Go To The East?” A climb up Cheongdeunsan (574 m), the hill behind this temple, would also be nice.

Travel Tip: Take local Bus No. 51 which runs every 1½ hours from the front of Andong City Hall to Bongjeong-sa (16 km north-west of Andong)

2. Dosan Seowon

This Confucian school is probably more famous than the Byeongsan Seowon ( see blog dated  Sept 18) and it’s reputed to be so beautiful that many film directors come here to shoot historical dramas like “Painter of the Wind”. The famous scholar, Yi Toe-gye whose face appears on the 1000-won note, established this academy in 1557. For a few hundred years, it was the most prestigious school in the land – the ancient equivalent of the SKY universities that modern Korean youths aspire to enter. Wonder if the Confucian students of the past had a more stressful time than their peers nowadays.

Travel Tip: Bus No 67 from Andong City Hall ( but do confirm with the bus driver as some don’t go all the way to the seowon. You’d need to walk the extra 2 km if that’s the case but the Lonely Planet assures readers of a pleasant jaunt.

3. Cheongnyang-san Provincial Park

Cheongnyang-san lends its name to three places actually – the mountain ( 870 m ), the provincial park, and the biggest temple here. According to the Lonely Planet, there are “ eleven other scenic peaks, eight caves and a waterfall…. The temple (sits) in a steep valley below the cliffs….The park boasts some spectacular views with tracks wandering along cliff precipices.” Sounds promising to me. I’d check into a minbak near the entrance to the park, stay overnight and explore the different trails as far as my legs and nerve will allow.

Travel Tip: The same bus ( No. 67) that goes to Dosan Seowon will continue its journey to the park entrance ( it plies this route every hour; trip takes about 1 hour and 15 mins).

4. Ginkgo tree at Yonggye-ri

Ironically this enormous tree is so close to the Jirye Art Village and yet I don’t think there’s a direct route to it. The literature claims that 14 people would be needed to encircle this tree which is 37 meters tall and has a diameter of 16 meters at its base. Like JAV, it was almost destroyed by the plans to build the Imha Dam but was successfully transplanted to its new home at the southern bank.
Travel Tip: Take Bus No 28 from Andong & get off at the Giran bus stop. After that, it looks like a loooong walk to find this tree. On second thought, hire a car.

5. Buyongdae
I first saw the high cliff of Buyongdae from a strip of sandy beach at Hahoe Village. Next time, I’d like to head straight to this place to view the village from this vantage point. A perfect time to visit would be when the villagers hold their Seonyu Julbulnori ( in October) when ropes of inflammable material are stretched across the river between Hahoe and Buyongdae for a special kind of fireworks show. There are also three buildings here to visit: Hwacheon Seowon, Ogyeonjeong-sa and Gyeomamjeong-sa.

Travel Tip: Get a car. Drive past the entrance to Hahoe Village, pass the Puncheon Agricultural Co-operative and then turn left at the Doyang three-way junction, to go across the Gwangduk-gyo ( Bridge). Follow the road that goes to the left.

For more info on bus schedules to the sights around Andong, please click here.
Source of Photos: KNTO website
Dosan Seowon http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=312772
Bongjeongsa  http://bongjeongsa2.templevill.com/intro/bojeongsa.swf
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=312775

Fun & Games at Hahoe Maeul, Andong – Part 4

A dramatic avenue flanked on both sides by tall ginkgo trees leads from the parking lot to the village. There are more ginkgo trees with impressive heights within the village and in autumn they are a splendid sight. More busy taking photos of these than of the houses or other attractions in the village.

However, can’t resist taking a few shots at the Minsok-nori Park which has the highest swing I’ve ever seen. Certainly not something for toddlers and even high enough to give some ajummas vertigo.

Traditional games in Korea seem to favour the bold and the athletic. Even the see-saw here seems to be more a game for adults.

On the side facing the Buyongdae cliff, there’s a lovely stretch of sandy beach with a thin strip of pine trees as wind-breaker. There’s a special tradition called “Seonyu julbulnori” held every October here. A long knotted rope is hung across the river between the cliff and the beach and at intervals, some spectacular fireworks within each knot are ignited. At least, that’s what I think the notes in my tourist brochure means. Here’s the verbatim extract:

“It is a fire game to explode the fire at every knot. When fire knot in between Mansongjeong and Buyongdae in Hahoe maeul across the river is tied and lit, fire is exploded at every knot and fire on knots fall down and is co-ordinated with egg fire that creates magnificent view.” Go figure.

Link to video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-lB-0fFyto