Letter to An Ajumma In Jeju

Dear ajumma,

On the strength of the Lonely Planet's description of you as the friendliest person on Jeju, we chose to stay in your yeogwan, Hanmi-jang near the Dongmun Rotary in the old part of Jeju town. LP didn't lie - you were really friendly and hospitable. A basket of fresh mandarin oranges sat in one corner of your reception area, inviting us to help ourselves to sample the local fruits whenever we pleased. You helped us make a call to the agency which ran a local tour bus so that we could be picked up at a convenient time and place. You even offered us freshly boiled water when you saw us with our styrofoam containers of instant noodles.

One thing you never shared with us but that's not your fault because I was too timid to ask and didn't have enough Korean anyway - how on earth do you maintain such a wonderful complexion? You were more than twenty years our senior yet your face and smile were far more youthful than our own tired visages. What's your secret?

Fond wishes from
an ajumma abroad

Gamsa- Hamnida to Some Gentlefolk of Gyeongju

To Certain Gentlefolk of Gyeongju,

First of all, thank you to our hosts in Sarangchae ( 054-773 4868) for maintaining a traditional-style house and renting out rooms for tourists.

My friend and I had flown into Ulsan from Jeju, just missed the shuttle bus by a minute or so (a warning to fellow travellers not to be tardy) and so arrived in Gyeongju late in the evening. So it was a relief to plonk ourselves into the cosy beds in your guesthouse and bask in the charming atmosphere of a bygone time.

At the same time, you thoughtfully provided your guests with modern amenities such as free Internet access and a kitchen in which we could fix ourselves a quick supper of instant noodles.

Unfortunately traditional style living dictates that the bathroom and toilet facilities are located away from the sleeping quarters and we weren’t prepared to continue to trudge the distance in the chilly early winter evening. So in the end, I’m sorry to admit that we decided to change to another place with zero physical charm but all the practical convenience of an attached bathroom.

But now it’s my turn to say Mian-hamnida to Mr Kwon Young-joung, the friendly proprietor of Hanjin-jang Yeogwan (tel 771 4096). The plainness and unmemorable appearance of his yeogwan is offset by the warm reception and farewell we got at his place – Gansa-hamnida to you, Mr Kwon, for the lovely chopstick tokens you presented us when we said goodbye to you. Sorry we missed your home-made entertainment ( do you really have performing scorpions?) but thank you for placing the reproduction of the Emile Bell at your reception counter. If I hadn’t had a chance to fall in love with its sound, I wouldn’t have bought my own replica at the Bulguksa souvenir shop.


Finally, CHONG-MAL GAMSA-HAMNIDA to a kind anonymous ajumma who helped us when we got lost somewhere on the streets of Gyeongju city. We stopped you, a complete stranger, simply hoping that you would point out the right direction to take to get back to our yeogwan. Instead you signalled that we should follow you into your car. We were completely floored when you actually drove us back right to the doorstep of Hanjin-jang. Maybe your kindness was prompted by the fact that you reckoned it was less convenient to tell us where to go ( given our very scanty Korean and your limited English) or perhaps it was out of national pride that Koreans take good care of foreign visitors. I’d like to think it was one of the many spontaneous acts of hospitality that I’ve experienced with your fellow citizens as you were so matter-of-fact about the whole matter.

Yours gratefully,
A non-Korean ajumma

sources:
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=398684&nearBy=site
http://www.flickr.com/photos/globalismpictures/1534962452/

A Series of Unfortunate Assumptions, SUNCHEON, Part 1

Here are some lessons learnt the hard way from my visit to Suncheon.

False Assumption No.1 - There are stacks of yeogwans or minbaks near express bus terminals all over South Korea.That may be true of a number of places outside Seoul but it apparently isn’t true of Suncheon. As a solo backpacker, I don’t usually like to reach an unfamiliar place in the dark but a change in my travel plans means that I reach Suncheon after sunset. Come out of the bus terminal, expecting to see signs which read “Yeogwan” or “Minbak” and to settle down quickly for the night.

But alas, no such luck and I’m desperate enough to startle a group of schoolgirls to ask them in my broken Korean for directions. In between their giggles, curious stares and their hesitant English ( probably the first time they’ve had to use it outside their classrooms!), I figure out it’s more prudent to hop into a cab instead of lugging my bag all over Suncheon town which turns out to be bigger than expected. To my relief, there is a cluster of motels etc. near the train station.

False Assumption No. 2 The Lonely Planet gives information about where to stay for all towns listed under its content pages.
Sorry, LP! You’re usually my trusty companion but you let me down when I turn to you for help on where to stay in Suncheon. So I ask someone in the TIC counter in the train station and he recommends the Bali Motel across the road. The 30,000 won rooms there strain my budget but am impressed by the panel on the wall beside the reception counter which displays photos of the rooms decked out in an amazing range of styles. I make the mistake of opting for a cheaper place a few doors away to save 5000 won.

Turns out the East Motel has very dated and gaudy interiors with a planetary theme for wallpaper and no remote control. Up early next morning and realise in the morning light there are other decent yeogwans so I switch to a 20,000 won place with the reassuring presence of an ajumma running the spotless joint.

False Assumption No.3 Reservations by email automatically mean you have a reservation.

Find out at the TIC counter outside the train station that they’ve not received my email reservation to join the City Tour bus. Or perhaps I shouldn’t have assumed that the Webmaster understood English. Anyway, I find myself appealing to the kind-hearted staff at the TIC and lucky for me, the free tour bus isn’t too crowded.

False Assumption No.4 All PCs in Korea are properly serviced and will work.
Have become so used to the Net being so easily available in South Korea that I am genuinely startled when the computers don’t behave themselves. One PC at the Suncheon Station swallows up my 500 won coins and hangs without so much as an Annyeong right while I’m earnestly typing out an email. GRRRR!

Sources:
http://www.suncheon.go.kr/
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=762729
http://encarta.msn.com/map_701516842/Suncheon.html
http://www.asia-planet.net/korea/suncheon-si.htm

The Stone Screens of Juwangsan, Part 1

Sometime during the 8th century during a more turbulent time of the Tang Dynasty, revolutionaries or rebels were chasing down King Juwang of China. Legend has it that he sought refuge in Seokpyeongsan, meaning “Stone Screen Mountain” and it’s not hard to see how it came by that name. The poor old king must have felt reassured when he saw the limestone peaks emerging out of the green like some sentinels offering refuge. These days, people running away from urban noise and pollution, continue to seek relief in the place which now goes by the name of Juwangsan.

It is the “only designated national park in the south-eastern region” and as I’m making my way south from Andong, it makes sense to stop by and explore this place a bit. But whether you’re in Andong or Seoul or Busan for that matter, Juwangsan Park is worth the time and effort. Apparently it used to be harder to get here as it’s far from the major cities but new roads have made it easier for motorists and buses to gain access.

The roads have probably been widened since my visit there in 2005 and more of the surrounding rice fields may have given way to the construction of more minbaks, yeogwans or hotels just outside the entrance into the national park. I can understand the temptation to give up the farming life to go into the tourism business – from the sun-dried faces of the halmeonis struggling to sell their persimmons, mushrooms, roasted rice and red peppers at the road-side near the bus terminal, it’s not easy to make a living in rural Korea. But at the same time, I’d be sorry to see those golden rice fields shrink or vanish completely.

It’s way before noon, but as my bus rolls into the bus terminal, I can see that the car park just outside the entrance to the park is already quite crowded with tour buses and cars. Groups of ajummas and ajeosshis clad in red wind-cheaters are sitting cross-legged in circles and picnicking on their kimchi and gimbaps. Just opposite the bus terminal and across the river, I find quite easily a minbak ( family-run guesthouse) with a very clean and spacious room ( for 20,000 won – 2005 rates). There’s also a camping ground beside the minbak village if you prefer to pitch a tent. The National Parks Information Centre is on the second floor of the bus terminal. It’s useful to stop there first to pick up maps, get weather updates and send off emails on PCs available here for tourists.

Source:
Juwangsan National Park Information brochure produced by the National Parks Authority
http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264150


For more info, contact: JNP office
Tel 054-873-0015
Email: chuwang@npa.or.kr
Homepage: www.npa.or.kr/chuwang

Hahoe Maeul, Andong – Part 3

One can understand why Queen Elizabeth and millions of others have visited this place. 24 km west of Andong, Hahoe Village is nestled within the snug embrace of the Nakdong-gang (river), hence its name which means “Stream Winds”. Surrounded by the river on three sides, it’s the ideal place for agricultural activity unless the water levels rise suddenly. Wonder if the good people of Hahoe ever have the problem of flooding in summer.

In fact, the river and mountains that encircle the village have protected it from possible invasions. Hahoe is also special as a living traditional village; unlike the Korean Folk Village near Seoul which is a mere reproduction, Hahoe Maeul is the real deal. It’s more than 600 years old, has about 130 traditional houses here and many buildings are kept as they were during the Joseon Dynasty. The architecture of these houses belonging to aristocrats or farmers is all the more interesting because it’s a living open-air museum with 176 families still living and working there.

There are many minbaks offering homestay here so it’s a great place to stay a few days to soak in the rustic scenes and slow pace of life. Then you would have ample time to look over the low stone walls into the neighbouring houses which are still occupied – perhaps by some descendant of the Ryu clan that presides over this small community.

Links & credits:
http://www.tourandong.com/english/coding/sub1/sub1.asp

Snail Restroom in Andong – Part 2

On our second day at Jirye Art Village, we clamber into Mr Kim’s seven- seater SUV  and head off towards a handsome Confucian Academy ( seowon). There are two seowons in the outlying area near Andong.

Dosan Seowon, about 28 km north of Andong is the more famous school as those who aspired to become high officials in the government would study here and the entrance exams for would-be civil servants were held here. It also happens to be a favourite location for outdoor scenes for TV dramas like Painter of the Wind.

However, today, we’re visiting the other seowon, Byeongsan Seowon, west of Andong and just beside the river. The elevated pavilion, Mandae-ru, that overlooks the broad river is quite large and has impressive beams and columns.

The spaces between the smooth columns look like some folding screen – each with a slightly different scene. How on earth did the ancient scholars manage to concentrate on their studies with so much distracting beauty outdoors?

The steps leading up to this study pavilion are carved out of single logs without benefit of handrails so visitors with unsteady legs or a poor sense of balance may need a helping hand.

Check out the Dalpaeng-i Duitgan(snail restroom) - It's traditional hwajangshil which is  a curious snail shaped structure made of mud-stone walls with a curved entrance and passageway instead of the usual door. In other seowons, such restrooms were built from bamboo trees so luckily there's one at least made of longer-lasting stuff. It's also important enough to be ranked as historical monument No 206. Would enter  to see what the end looks like but not sure if someone is using it at the moment.

Links & sources of pics: http://www.byeongsan.net/english/sub1/sub2.asp
http://www.tourandong.com/english/coding/main.asp
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=313046

A Little Night Music at Jirye Art Village - Part 5

There’s a distinct chill in this autumn evening but the guests of JAV on the 24th October, 2005 are quite warm and ruddy-cheeked in the Ji-seon-sa-dang, formerly a Confucian schoolroom. This is partly because the heater’s on and we’re seated on cushions around a low table with teacups, fruits and snacks and largely because we’re filling each other’s cups with Andong soju ( rice wine with an unbelievable 45% alcohol content!), thanks to our generous host.

With our spirits mellowed and inhibitions loosened courtesy of the potent soju, we take turns to sing or suggest songs for others to hum or sing along. The French guests present Autumn Leaves & La Vien En Rose. Mr Kim does a wonderful imitation of the flute and we’re treated to one of his own compositions. It’s a privilege to hear the pansori singer, another guest, perform the Jindo arirang. Other Koreans join in and I marvel at their voices. “Oh yes,” Dave from Jeonju nods in jest, “ we get a lot of training in the noraebang!”

My turn to stand and deliver. Am completely intimidated by all these people with well-endowed lungs and natural singing ability. I don’t even sing in the bathroom and any lyric flies out of my head. To salvage national pride and as I owe Mr Kim a song, here’s my belated contribution to the party.

JIRYE ART VILLAGE

24 October, 2005

( dedicated to Kim Won-gil )


Here silence is a canvas -
Each paints with
A different palette.

Nature's brushstrokes
Are delicate –
Wind through leaves, bird song.

The resident pup, though,
Punctuates ( or punctures)
The canvas with sharp yaps.

Baby’s cries are highlights
Completing
A family portrait.

The dramatic strokes of
Pansori singer and drummer
Are masterly and deft.

Fragile notes from our
Host’s mouth flute
Harmonise with the calm.

French songs and soju cups
Clinking lead to strange speech
Heard only in dreams.


Sources of pics:
1. Andong soju_bottle http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SH/SH_EN_6_3_2_4.js
2. Soju glasses http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/culturenlife/culturenlife_newworlds_detail.htm?No=16

Jirye Art Village – Part 4

Don’t think I’ve ever slept in any place so old before. Quick calculation – 342 years to be exact. I’m spending two glorious nights here at the Jirye Art Village. My room was probably a store-room in the old days but now it’s converted into comfortable rooms.

Love the stark simplicity of my tiny room. Floor covered with yellow, oiled hanji; walls plastered with white paper. Zero furniture here. Just a thin “yo” (mattress) folded alongside thick blankets and pillows; some hooks to hang my coat. The only 21st century thing is the light switch. Location’s great as well. Near the dining-room but away from the washrooms. Best of all, a room with two views – of the dam and the hillside. There are actually 14 guestrooms available for tourists. I paid 20,000 won for two nights’ stay and 24,000 won for two breakfasts and two dinners. ( 2005 prices)

A bell summons us to meals in the cosy dining-room. Breakfast is traditional fare - rice with fish, mushrooms and yummy omelettes. Other memorable meals by Mrs Kim  include Andong chicken stew ( dak-jjim) and Song-i mushrooms steeped in gochujang.

Source of photos: KNTO website

Exploring Jirye Art Village – Part 3

The Jirye Art Village, a cluster of about 12 wooden buildings, is perched on a shoulder of the Yong-ji Mountain overlooking what used to be the Yesu River but is now part of the Imhaho (Dam). It’s hard to believe that I’m going to be sleeping in something that was erected in 1663.

But am more impressed with the present views than history. Sitting beside my door to my ondol room, I can admire at leisure other traditional houses across the small courtyard. Looking up towards the peak, I spot a marvelous ancient pine standing like some guardian on watch.

Pic on right: see that pink-walled building in the bottom left hand corner of the pic? That was my room for two nights.

Even more thrilled when Mr Kim, my host, rips off the mosquito netting, with a dramatic flourish, from the window and pushes the window screens fully apart to reveal great views of the waters below. With the lake on one side and hills on the other, who could ask for more?

Other discoveries: besides the regal pine, there are other trees here - lovely maples, ginkgo, persimmons ripening on bare branches, a fragrant quince and even a blackberry bush.

Photo on left: Another view of my room in the background, with ginkgo, persimmon and maple trees in foreground.

Also: family tumulis of the Kim clan, a organic vegetable patch, an ancestral shrine, a Confucian schoolhouse, and touches of modernity – a communal bathhouse with piped hot water for showers and a boat beside a jetty ( can one take the boat from Andong to JAV?)

Getting to Jirye Art Village – Part 2

The road to Jirye Art Village starts with a chance discovery on the KNTO website followed by reservations through e-mail to JAV owner, Mr Kim Wong-gil. It’s easy to get access to JAV on the Internet or a landline. But actually getting there is another matter.

First, I find my way to Andong by bus. It’s a short walk from the bus terminal to the TIC in front of the Andong train station. One call to Mr Kim ( 054) 822 2590 and soon his SUV appears to transport me to JAV. Easy enough or so I think.

The 40 minute drive from Andong to JAV takes us on a road that overlooks the Imhaho Dam and past apple orchards begging to be photographed. The hillsides are in a riot of autumn shades. The road narrows to a series of hairpin bends that test the driver’s steering skills & the passengers’ stomachs. Even driving through the main entrance of JAV is tricky as there are just a few inches to spare on both sides of the vehicle as it squeezes past the wooden portals decorated with Hanji characters painted on red paper.

If you have your own set of wheels, you could drive or pedal to JAV via Cheonjeon – Sugokgyo – Bakgok ( 30 km). Or if you prefer a more leisurely route, then take bus No. 28 from Andong to the Giran bus stop and then walk 10 km, mostly uphill, to JAV.

Source of map: KNTO website

Jirye Art Village – Part 1

If I were a film-maker, I’d make a movie or documentary about Jirye Art Village, near Andong. It’s the story of how one man, Kim Won-gil, struggled for five long years to save his ancestral homes from being inundated by the construction of a dam. He wanted to preserve the hanok for future generations and to create a refuge for those in the arts to recharge their creative batteries.

Fortunately, these traditional houses, hanok, which were built during the Joseon Dynasty, could be taken apart and reassembled. Still the logistics, time and resources involved to relocate them to a higher level must’ve been formidable. But Mr Kim, poet and former faculty member of Andong University, had the determination to realise his dream.

The entire project was completed in 1990 and since then, JAV has had about 15,000 visitors, both from Korea and other countries. It is home to three important cultural assets: Jisan Seodang, Jichonjong taek ( Head house of the Kim clan) and Jichonjechong ( shrine for sacrificial rites). Happily, it continues to inspire and educate those who are privileged enough to stay there.

Source of photos: KNTO website