The Different Faces Of Korea..according to KTO

Here are the latest promotional videos created by KTO - love the photography and the sight of the solo dancer dressed like a shaman ( I think?) is quite haunting. Pity the sites used in this video aren't identified but I can recognise a few and smile complacently and say to myself, "Been there, seen that."

But, mind you, only a few. Lots more to tick off on my long list of places to visit. Don't you love those magnificent trees? Can someone tell me their location?

On another note, pretend to be a marketing student and compare the different videos aimed at different regional markets. The first aimed at Chinese market depicts the dynamic Korea which puts a modern spin on its traditional performing arts while the second, intended for the Japanese market invariably features Bae Yong-jun but also typically emphasises the natural beauty of the country on an intimate scale. In contrast the exotic and mystical is highlighted in the campaign for the US and European markets. Even its slogan, "Be One With Earth and Sky" smacks of New Ageism. Is that what KTO thinks will sell Korea to Americans and Europeans?

Can't speak for them but hey, I'm sold.



sources:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=quQLnALSCps
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s0K8981Xluw&feature=related

ETA for Autumn Leaves 2010

Here's some vital news from KBS for those chasing the fall folliage:

"Autumn foliage is expected to be visible at the nation’s major mountain areas starting in the early part of next month, or a week later compared to previous years.The Korea Meteorological Administration said Wednesday that autumn leaves at Mount Seorak will be visible around October third, while Mount Jiri and Mount Songni will see their leaves turn red starting around October 20th. Autumn foliage is expected to be at its most colorful at Mount Seorak around October 20th and at Mount Naejang around November sixth."

Keep your fingers crossed, folks that the weatherman has got it right.
Click here  for the latest update.
Check out this 2009 posting also for a little more perspective.
 
source:
http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/news/news_Dm_detail.htm?No=75695
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_4_13_3.jsp

What's Happening to the Osaek Springs?

Enjoying the spring waters is one of the simple pleasures I always look forward to during my visits to Korea. ( See the earlier posting on the spring waters of Osaek in Soraksan and at  Naeso-sa. )

One approaches a zen-like moment when one partakes of the cool waters straight from the ground. Well, OK - visitors at Osaek spring No 2  usually had to use the plastic scoops instead of using their hands so it's not totally a primeval and rustic experience and those who wanted to taste the waters at Spring No 1 had to queue up in front of a stone tortoise which spouted out the spring waters. Still, it's a lot more fun than turning on the tap or opening up a plastic bottle of Perrier.

Koreans  may extol the virtues of this spring or that, citing its mineral contents being good for one ailment or another but personally, the appeal lies in getting up close and personal with nature while running the minimal risk of getting the runs.

So I was VERY sorry to read this recent report from the JoongAng Daily:


"At Osek Yaksu, which has been famous for its medicine water for 500 years, we found not the refreshing gusher we expected but a tiny trickle. Seven elderly ladies who had come from across the country to fill up on the yaksu were also disappointed. After an hourlong bus ride, each of them had to spend 40 minutes to fill one 1.8-liter bottle. According to the locals, the yaksu began to dry up after a large construction project started nearby."

James Hadley noted some construction going on in Osaek Creek when he visited the place in June 2007. The previous year, heavy rains had damaged Highway 44 and the work he observed was intended to create steep banks flanking Osaek Creek and to "grade the creek bed to a gradual profile with a flat cross section. In other words, either the creek was being largely converted into a canal, or previous canalization was being extensively repaired."

Hadley raised some important questions about the impact of the construction and I wonder if this particular project has anything to do with the spring waters or if another construction project is responsible for turning the Osaek spring into a sad trickle. Either way, I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the isutation is a temporary problem or if not, I really hope the locals can do something to ensure that the springs of Osaek will continue to refresh present and future generations of visitors. The best things in life used to be free but these days with nature under siege on so many fronts, we need to pay the price in terms of greater vigilance.

sources: http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=255513
http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2923178
http://pr.korean.net/eng/koview/koview_10.jsp
http://www.factplusfancy.com/pbw/kr/11/Osaek_Creek_Construction_Work_2007_06_23

Janganmun at Hwaseong, Past and Present

Exterior view of Jangan-mun, the North Gate of Hwaseong

Many thanks to Henny Savenjie for giving me the green light to reproduce the first and second pictures here. They  came from a book  but he wasn't able as yet to find the publication details. To see bigger pictures in more detail, please click here.

Imagine, if you please, King Jeongjo making his grand entrance through Jangan-mun into Hwaseong from Hanyang.

According to one source, the word "jangan" means a capital, illustrating King Jeongjo’s intention to make Hwaseong a major city. But I'm puzzled - my very limited knowledge of Chinese suggests to me another translation -"Chang" meaning Long and  "An" meaning Peace, so could it be read as the Gate of Lasting Peace? Those who are familiar with Hanja, Chinese and Korean, please enlighten me.

I like this photo of Jangan-mun taken in the early 1910s. With its two-storeyed pavilion, Jangan-mun is the biggest of all the main gates in Hwaseong and is even larger than the unfortunate Sungnyemun ( Namdaemun ) in Seoul which was burnt a few years ago.

From another source, "water could be poured through five holes called oseongji on the upper side of ongseong (jar fortress- a semicircular outer gate) in case enemies tried to burn the gate." Remarkably this gate is the original one which survived many conflicts through the ages.

If you have the inclination and patience, you could check out this website with a blueprint and instructions  for constructing your own paper model of Jangan-mun. Good luck to you!

sources:
http://www.hwasong.henny-savenije.pe.kr/
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:2009-01-24_-_Portrait_of_King_Jeongjo_in_Unhangak.JPG
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Hwaseong.Fortress-Janganmun.03.jpg
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Janganmun_of_Hwaseong_Fortress_in_early_1910s.jpg
http://shfes-eng.suwon.ne.kr/html/sub3_2_225.asp
http://cp.c-ij.com/en/contents/3152/hwaseong/index.html
http://english.visitseoul.net/visit2007en/activities/dattoursuggestions/dattoursuggestions.jsp?cid=38&sid=1911

http://magazine.seoulselection.com/index.php/articles/60-travel/211-hwaseong-fortress
http://www.knto.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264391&nearBy=tran

Gyeokpo in Byeonsanbando

Spent the second last night of my 2007 trip to Korea in a small seaside town called Gyeokpo. It was easy enough to board the bus from Naeso-sa on the southern side of  Byeonsanbando on the west coast of Korea and only slightly more challenging to find a yeogwan that suited my taste  ( sea view, of course!) and budget ( under 30,000 won).

photo credit: Kim Byung-joon

The weather was good for a leisurely stroll around the small port-town which has a small supermarket, a small amusement park which has been better days, and many small seafood restaurants. It was more interesting walking down to the small lighthouse and back again, passing a long line of pojang-macha lookalikes except these were plying all kinds of fresh seafood.

photo credit: Kim Byung-joon

Actually I'd come here out of curiosity about Chaeseokgang, the cliff with slabs of rock that resembled a pile of books. Have to admit my curiosity was satisfied too quickly within five minutes. But I did spend more time in the seafood stalls,  poring over the variety of sea creatures available for one's gustatory pleasure or adventure. Click here for a video on autumn in Buan ( production of KBS World Radio); the video has some footage of Chaeseokgang amongst other things.

Getting to Gyeokpo: You can take an express bus to Buan from the Seoul Express Bus Terminal ( bus service available 15 times a day; approximately 3 & 1/2 hours). There're also the same number of buses from Jeonju Bus Terminal. From Buan Bus Terminal, you can board regular or deluxe buses to reach Gyeokpo.

Grave of Yi Hyang-geum a.k.a Mae-chang

Footnote: Came across a poet who's a local of Buan, the main town that connects Byeonsanbando with Seoul. Yi Hyang-geum or Maechang ( 1573- 1610) was a well-known ginyeo. That's a highly-educated female entertainer from the lower classes who performed for the nobility. Here's one of her poems:

All the world loves to fish yet I choose the harp,

Only today do I realise the hardships of life

Three times ashamed for missing my chance with two feet severed

In Hyeongsan I weep with jade rock in my arms.

The missing feet suggest the traditional punishment for a criminal while the story of the jade rock refers to a real person who, unfortunately, received such a sentence when the king refused to believe his claim that he was carrying a piece of jade. What I find interesting is the ambiguous tone of the poem - does the poet regret her choices in life or is she patting herself on the back for her noble values?

sources:

http://www.waymarking.com/gallery/image.aspx?f=1&guid=58f3e460-0f18-4db2-8ae9-8c3926e19cb8&lat=35.726683&lon=126.736733&t=4&id=Bus%20Station%20Car%20Wash%20%20-%20%20Buan,%20Korea

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yi_Maechang
http://www.seoulselection.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=1549&category_id=66&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=53
http://books.google.com.my/books?id=K17mLqrKA40C&dq=Yi+Maechang&source=gbs_navlinks_s
http://www.ocp.go.kr:9000/ne_pro_search/content_view.cgi?AC=00007128&mode=1&v_db=2&v_disp_type=4
http://www.ocp.go.kr:9000/ne_dasencgi/full.cgi?v_kw_str=&v_db_query=A4%3A35&v_db=2&v_doc_no=00007128&v_dblist=2&v_start_num=451&v_disp_type=4saeng
http://www.ocp.go.kr:9000/ne_dasencgi/full.cgi?v_kw_str=&v_db_query=A4%3A35&v_db=2&v_doc_no=00007128&v_dblist=2&v_start_num=451&v_disp_type=4
http://wiki.galbijim.com/Ki

The Poetic World of Classic Korean Women Writers by Lee Hai-soon ( Ewha Womens University Press, 2005)

To Go OR Not To Go In Winter - Letter for Christina

A reader from Malaysia who's never experienced winter wants to know if it's a good time to visit Korea. Here's my extended reply:

source: Yonhap News - http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/news/news_photo_detail.htm?No=14528

Dear Christina,
Here's my two cents on whether or not to visit Korea in winter. First, let me play devil's advocate and list some reasons why it may not be the best time to go.

1. It's too freaking cold to go out especially if you're from a sunny clime unless of course you're a tougher cookie than I am

2. Your travel plans may be hampered by snowstorms which have delayed flights, cancelled ferries and slowed down trains and buses.

3. You won't have so many hours of daylight to travel around to enjoy the sights

4. You'll blow your travel budget on cups of hot coffee or soups to keep yourself warm

5. Your complexion will suffer because of the extreme dry air but you can't pack a full bottle of face cream in a post 9-11 world with tighter airport security

Now, here are some reasons why winter's a good time to travel to Korea:

1. It's a great place to learn skiing. I read somewhere that even Russians, who obviously have more snow, prefer to ski in Korea because of the wonderful facilities.

2. You can take part in many winter festivals which seem to be a great deal of fun for both the participants and observers.

3.  I like to ask Koreans that I met about their favourite season and quite a number cite winter as their preferred time of year.Why? Answers range from the chance to get decked out in winter woolies, to the outdoor sports to one person's reply which is the most intriguing, " I love the smell of winter". Go to check out for yourself why so many would fall in love with this season.

So, Christina, if you've got your heart set on experiencing winter, here are a few humble suggestions from a not-so-seasoned traveller ( when it comes to winter, that is!):

a. travel in a tour group instead of braving it as a solo traveller. That way, the burden of ensuring you're warm and safe falls on the shoulders of the experienced Korean tour guide who should know how to deal with delays

b. Layer, layer, layer - instead of packing four winter jackets into your luggage, just wear layers. The same goes for your feet and legs. Ask around before investing in a suitable pair of shoes.

c. head straight for the supermarket as soon as you touch down in Korea to look for handy hand-warmers and naeboks. For an article on naeboks, click here.

d. carry a thermos flask so you can have your own coffee/ tea/ hot beverage wherever you go.

e. learn the basic Korean words  such as snow storm, blizzard, minus 40 temperatures, etc. to listen out for weather forecasts on the local telly or radio

Cheers and happy travelling!
ajumma

Baekdamsa Revisited, Part 1

It's not a state secret but I'm still loathe to write about Baekdamsa. I'd like to keep this place selfishly  to myself but who am I kidding? The place that I visited in autumn, 2004 has probably changed a lot. Besides, who was it who said you can't step into the same river twice?

Baekdamsa, Temple of a Hundred Pools, lies in a quiet north-western corner of Soraksan. "Quiet" is a relative term - it's spared the massive crowds that descend on the main section of this popular national park but at the same time, don't be surprised to see a long line of people along this bridge that leads to the temple. Busloads of ajummas and local tourists can make this place quite noisy at times but if you head out for the trails, it's easy to think that you may be the only visitor.

Then again, the piles upon piles of stones built by past visitors remind me that I'm just one of countless visitors who have been fortunate enough to make our way to this place.

Here's another pic to put one in a solitary mood - can only imagine the beauty of the wintry solitude in Baekdamsa. Whichever season you choose, do check the shuttle bus schedules that takes passengers from the village of Yongdae-ri to Baekdamsa ( 3.5 km, 2,000 won). I arrived by a local bus from Sokcho and just missed the last shuttle bus in the late afternoon so had to spend one night in Yongdae-ri as I wasn't prepared to lug my backpack for that distance. On hindsight though, I should have not spent the night in Yongdae-ri. Not that it was hard to find a decent yeongwan but the walk would've given me more time to count the pools along the way.

Here's an alternative route: At Inje Terminal, take a bus to Wontong or Jinburyeong and get off at Yongdae-ri. (40 minute interval, Runs 20 times a day)

sources:
http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264231
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baekdamsa
http://www.koreanculture.org/06about_korea/symbols/09seoraksan.htm

Connecting the Dots at the Confucian Academy - Jeonju, Part 6

There were two reasons I woke up early in the morning to look for the Confucian Academy ( Hanggyeo) in Jeonju when I travelled in a tour group to Korea in 2003.

First the Lonely Planet described two ginkgo trees which were over 400 years old on the grounds of this old school. Wasn't going to pass up on the chance to see what the four century old trees would look like.

Second, when I was in Jeju on my very first visit to Korea in 2002, I'd met some gentlemen from Jeonju at a Confucian academy. They had made a special trip to the island for a special ceremony related to their position as Confucian scholars and their friendliness in inviting my friend and I to observe their rites had created an impression.

So when the opportunity to visit Jeonju came up the following year, I couldn't resist the chance to connect the dots. Trouble was, it was very early in the morning, no-one was around and the gates were locked. Had to be satisfied with the very minor achievement of actually locating the place ( a stone's throw away from the Hanok Village and the Traditional Cultural Centre ).  The trees didn't look terribly ancient to my untutored eye - half expected to see stilts supporting the older branches but the twin trees seemed to be holding up pretty well ( if I saw the right ones!)

Here are some other interesting titbits which I found on a website on Jeonju:

1. Ginkgo trees, which don't easily fall prey to insects, have a special significance for Confucian scholars as they symbolise an upright moral character which cannot be corrupted.
2. There are five big and old ginkgo trees on the grounds of the Confucian School. The one in front of the West gate is over 400 years old.

3. The ginkgo tree on the right side of Daeseongjeon in the Confucian academy is regarded as a bisexual tree as "male turned into female to produce ginkgo”.
4. According to a local legend , you can pass your important exams if you make a wish in front of the 250-year old ginkgo taken in front of Ilwok Gate.

If you happen to be in Jeonju and if your timing and luck are better than mine, check out this place and say "Hi" to the gentlemen scholars and the ginkgo trees for me.

source:
http://www.knto.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264422&nearBy=tran
http://tour.jeonju.go.kr/open_content/english/tour/noted_place/local/view.jsp?idx=32&cpage=1&keycat=1&keycode=&keyword=
http://hsinhisn.pixnet.net/blog/post/23402611
http://hanok.jeonju.go.kr/FLSite/ContentView.aspx?menuID=3&subID=17

How To Look At A King - Jeonju, Part 4

Used to think that portraits weren’t as interesting as landscape paintings or sketches of folk scenes. But after watching the SBS drama, Painter of the Wind, I’m now more inclined to give this genre more than a cursory glance.  Pity that I hadn't seen the drama series before I visited Gyeonggijeon in Jeonju. I would've spent a more enriching time there if I had known the following earlier:

Royal portraits ( eojin or ojin) were particularly important during the Joseon Dynasty as it had embraced the Confucianist tradition of ancestral worship. The Joseon kings had their visages depicted in portraits as a way of representing their “aspirations for the perpetuation of their dynasty”. When ordinary citizens bowed before the portrait of the king, it was as good as pledging allegiance to him. That's why Yi Song-gye, a.k.a. King Taejo, founder of the Joseon Dynasty, sought to validate his rise to power by a coup d’etat by commissioning no less than fourteen official portraits.

 Here's what I've gathered so far about the do's and don'ts of admiring portraits of the royalty in Korea.
 

1. DON'T march up to the shrine and hop over the low hurdle as if you're about to say Howdy to King Taejo. Instead, approach the shrine INDIRECTLY as a sign of respect. I guess eyeballing the royal portrait head-on  is a no-no as it can be interpreted as a sign of impertinence. That's why that low barricade is there in front of the entrance - to signal to visitors that they need to approach the portrait in an oblique fashion by using the side entrances.

2. Observe first the backdrop of the portrait. According to an article in the Spring 2006 edition of Koreana,  the "panels depicting the sun, moon and five peaks..( are) in accordance with the traditional practice.... In this way, the portrait of Taejo is being respected as if he were still the ruling sovereign". Strange thing is - I can't see any moon or mountains? We could be talking about different copies of portraits - the artists tended to make changes according to trends or personal preferences whenever they made reproductions so copies were never fully alike.

Also, the contrast between the simple lines of the figure and the details in the clothes, throne and carpet are intended to underscore the "authority and dignity of the king".

 

3. Note the position of the subject in the portrait. In most Joseon Dynasty portraits, the subject is seated at an angle but one has a straight-forward view of King Taejo. Some experts believe the perspective was meant to set him apart from the rest as the founder of the Joseon Dynasty.

4. Next, pay attention to the black headpiece perched on the head of the monarch. The ikseongwan has flaps sticking out from the back which symbolize a cicada's wings. Its "piercing sound is said to be expressive of sovereign dignity and its metamorphosis a symbol of rebirth".

5. Consider now the emperor's clothes...oops.. I mean, the king's clothes. He's decked out in blue ( "a carry-over influence of the Goryeo-style protraits") unlike late Joseon kings who preferred red.

6. Finally, take a close look at the face of King Taejo. Look out particularly for the mole above his right eyebrow. Portrait painters were careful to present unidealised faces of their sitters as the complexion reflected the personality of the subject. Verisimilitude of visage was so important to the Joseon kings that King Yongjo proclaimed that if a single strand of hair in the painting was different from the original, he would not consider that portrait to represent his ancestor.

So the scars, moles, pockmarks and other distinctive facial features had to be depicted as accurately as possible by the Joseon painters. Indeed, so faithful were they that Dr Lee Sung-nak was able to present a research paper, " An Analysis Of Skin Ailments Shown In The Portraits of the Chosun Dynasty"!

 Note: All quotes here are from Koreana, Spring 2006 edition.

Source:
http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/art/2009/12/148_7813.html
http://www.clickkorea.org/arts/curator/file/2-2_Portraits%20of%20the%20Choson%20Dynasty.pdf
http://koreana.kf.or.kr/pdf_file/1992/1992_AUTUMN_E034.pdf

Picture of Summer for a Wintry Day - Deokjin Park, Jeonju Part 1

Got a little weary of the stark whiteness of winter pics so I've decided to post a summery pic instead. Actually as my postings for the next few days will feature Jeonju, this photo of Deokjin Park serves as a sneak preview into this city.

Unfortunately I visited Jeonju in the wrong season - it was too late in September to see the lotus blooms cover the pond. ( The best months are July and August.) So my own photos turned out to be pretty dull instead of pretty in pink.

Citizens of Jeonju have Park Gi-soon to thank for being able to enjoy Deokjin Park for free as this wealthy gentleman donated this private park to the city in 1929. Much earlier,  the pond used to be part of a swamp before it was coverted into a moat to defend a castle which once stood here.

Ajummas from around the country used to wash their hair or even bathe in the waters of Deokjin as part of the ancient annual rites when they prayed to the sea deity for good health. These days, things are less exciting - just tourist groups who may exclaim with disappointment when they realise they're in the right place at the wrong time.

sources:

http://www.korea.net/news/news/newsView.aspserial_no=20070702044&part=108&SearchDay=2007.07.03

http://www.knto.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=313019
http://www.igougo.com/journal-j12910-Jeonju-Where_Dynasties_Begin.html#ReviewID:1152391

Gamsa-hamnida to Some Denizens of Danyang

A VERY BIG THANK YOU to Mr Ko Jong-gyu at the Danyang Tourist Information Booth. We’d stopped by there to get more information and fortunately for us, it was the low season and you were spending the time in the most exemplary fashion by studying Japanese. We were lucky that you were free and offered to take us around in your car to show us some of the sights in Danyang.

Without you, we wouldn’t have seen the murals of Kuan Yin, the Goddess of Mercy in one temple, had our photo taken with the Three Peaks ( Dodamsambong ) and had our first taste of a memorable samgyetang ( stuffed chicken with ginseng). You were even so kind and patient as to drive me back to the restaurant the following day to retrieve a missing glove. Once again, Chong-mal Gamsa-hamnida!

Also want to thank a friendly elderly couple whom we met along the footpaths of the Daeseongsan, the park on the hill just behind Danyang town. Gamsa-hamnida for your very pleasant company as you let us join you on your daily exercise route round the hill and for pointing out to us various landmarks.

Danyang Rocks! - Part 1

Danyang is not to be confused with Damyang, the town famed for its bamboo groves. The former is one of the few tourist towns in Chuncheongbuk-do, probably the least blessed of the provinces in terms of the number of attractions. Aside from Suanbo, three national parks and towns like Cheonju and Danyang, there aren’t that many attractions compared to other provinces in the country.

So, it probably hasn’t been easy for the local tourist promotion board in Chungcheongbuk-do to persuade foreign visitors to spend time and won there. Seoulites, however, need no persuasion. In summer, they descend on this quiet and cool provincial town to escape the oppressive heat. In winter, the town regains its sleepy provincial demeanour and the uncrowded streets take on an added charm.

Sandwiched between Woraksan National Park and Sobaeksan National Park, this pleasant town beside the Chungju Lake ( Chungju-ho) offers thrills for adventure-seekers in the form of white-water rafting and paragliding. Photo enthusiasts can also get trigger-happy hunting down the Eight Beautiful Sights of Danyang ( Danyang Palgyeong).

It’s even the ideal place for those seeking peace and quiet and long walks. Way back in 2002, my friend and I had only chosen to visit this town at the last-minute after watching the TV news about snowfalls causing jams in Gangwon-do. We decided it was more prudent to take the train from Gyeongju to Danyang instead of the bus to Gangwondo. It turned out to be a lucky detour.

Gosu-donggul, the main attraction of Danyang, usually attracts hordes of visitors during summer. According to my trusty Lonely Planet, during the peak tourist season, “you cannot move for all the tourists and it will take you an excruciating hour or more to walk around the system”. But when we visited this small provincial town in winter, it was almost as if we had the whole cave to ourselves.

As a result, it felt a little creepy at times so I had little reason to complain about the intrusive presence of the many steel staircases as they undermined the unearthly atmosphere of this very large limestone cave system. It was a good workout as we followed the well-posted 1300 m-long trail from one impressive formation of stalactites and stalagmites to another. Entrance fees were 3000 won in 2002.

source of pics:
http://cache.virtualtourist.com/4262045-Namhan_River_and_bridge_at_Danyang_South_Korea-Tanyang.jpg
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Korea-Danyang-Gosu_Cave_3184-07.JPG
http://www.travelblog.org/Asia/South-Korea/Seoul/blog-118713.html
http://images.travelpod.com/users/quebekwalouis/2.1221235320.gosu-donggulx-danyang.jpg

Top Ten Things To Do At Gyeongju - A Personal Must-Do List

Here's my LIST OF THINGS TO DO WHEN I REVISIT GYEONGJU

( Gyeongju's own website http://eguide.gj.go.kr/)

Not so easy to seek  serenity in Seokguram if there are hundreds beside you with the same intent?

1. Catch the first rays of sunrise from Seokguram or at least from the top of Tohamsan. Soak in the peace and serenity in the grotto before the tourist hordes descend onto this place and finally, continue a meditative walk down to Bulguksa. Hopefully this helpful chart for sunrise times will be updated. The walk up is apparently steep and takes a few hours so I'm keeping my fingers crossed that I can wake up early enough to get a cab or better still, see if hermitage will allow visitors to stay overnight.

I'd like to ask the guide,  for example,  why these steps in Bulguksa are called the staircase of 48 desires.

 2. Buy a proper guidebook or get an English-speaking guide to point out all the important features of Bulguksa. For earlier postings on Bulguksa, please click here and here.

3. Trek up the Namsan Skyway, low mountain south of Gyeongju which is chockful of Shilla relics ( tombs, statues, pavilions, pagodas, temples). The Lonely Planet promises “an exhilarating experience” exploring the various trails. source: http://www.sherwinvjones.com/gyeongjublog/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/Namsan-English-New-Map-150ppi.gif

The pond is dry and so is my inspiration?

4. Seek inspiration to compose sijo without benefit of soju at Poseokjeongji, the pond in a banquet garden where Shilla kings enjoyed conjuring up poems in contests while drinking. Poseokjeongji is the only banquet garden left in the world. Pity the water source has been cut off. Would've been fun to see how long the drinking cups take to float from one end to the other of  the abalone-shaped stream.

5. Take a day-trip out to Yangdong Folk Village, a village which has existed since the Yi dynasty ( 15th and 16th centuries). Many traditional houses are still occupied by the descendants of the yangban ( aristocracy).

pic source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Korea-Gyeongju-Yangdong.Village.jpg

pic source: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/d1/View_of_Gyeongju-Korea-01.jpg

6. Stroll around Bomun Lake especially in spring when cherry trees which line the road around it are in full bloom. Also, have an outdoor picnic while watching traditional dances at the Bomun Outdoor Performance Theater near the TIC there.

Hopefully the museum displays also have explanatory notes in clear English

7. Visit the Shilla History Hall of Science a.k.a. Shilla Museum of Art and Science  which has models of Seokguram and Cheomseongdae amongst other exhibits.

Many scenes for MBC's historical drama, Queen Seondeok were shot at the Shilla Millennium Park

8. Try some of the rides and watch the performances at the Shilla Millennium Park, an amusement park with a distinctively Shilla appearance although replicas of  Constantinople, Baghdad, Changan (present-day Xian) are also featured. "The floating stage symbolizes the seas through which the four cities conducted trade and exchanges, while the land stage represents the Silk Road, the ancient over-land trading route." Also plan to enjoy the foot spa using hot spring water before cooling off with an ice-cream  in the replica of Seokbinggo, the Shilla ice-room. Must also check out the cafeteria in the Emile Tower in the park which is built in the shape of the Emile Bell. For more info, click here.

9. Spend time contemplating in Oksan Seowon, a Confucian academy ( like the Doseon Seowon near Andong). The Lonely Planet describes it as having “sublime setting surrounded by shade trees and overlooking a stream with a waterfall and rock pools”.

10. Buy Hwangnam-bang  – the popular local pastry filled with red-bean paste. Absolutely delicious when freshly baked.  Great snack to chomp on while clambering over Namsan Skyway.

A Longer, Closer Look at Seokguram, Part 2

Seokbulsa ( Stone Buddha Temple) became known as Seokguram during the Japanese colonial period. More than 1200 years old, it has been listed as a World Cultural Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1995. National Treasure No. 24 of Korea is situated facing the East Sea on Tohamsan, Gyeongju.

This model from the Shilla Art and Science Museum reminds visitors that Seokguram isn't a temple built into a dug-out cave. It's actually a fully man-made construct built from granite upon a mountain-top. This type of grotto, called a "caitya" cave ( literally, a sanctuary)  is unlike the "vihara" caves ( shelter for monks with a chapel)  usually found in India and China.

The cut-away model here shows the rectangular antechamber which stands for earth. It leads to a short vestibule before the main domed chamber representing heaven. The mathematical precision of the structure suggests adherence to the architectural principles of the Golden Rectangle and La Porte d'Harmonie ( The Door of Harmony).

Thirty wedge-shaped rocks called "Dong-tul" arranged in a square shape are part of what makes Seokguram grotto special. The ingenious ventilation system, comprising five air passages above the shrine, have also contributed to the longevity of Seokguram. Ancient devotees could walk around the seated Buddha and pay closer attention to the fifteen panels of bodhisattvas, arhats and ancient Indian gods as well as ten miniatures of saints in the niches above.

Bas-relief carvings of two Vajrapanis, guardians of the temples make threatening gestures at the entrance into the rotunda.

The skill of Shilla stone masons is to be admired as they transform granite into facial creases, rippling muscles and flowing pants.

 Buddha here is carved from a single granite block. There's some debate as to which Buddha he actually stands for - Seokgamoni or some other incarnation.

Buddha's lotus-shaped seat on a stone foundation is 1.34 meters tall. Lotus petals form the top and bottom sections while eight panels are sandwiched in between.

Buddha's hand positions ( mudras) signify his enlightenment. His right hand touches the earth; either this means him calling the earth to bear witness to his enlightenment. Check out the second video in the previous posting for a close-up shot which shows lines carved into his open palm.

The usnisa , which is the part of the head protruding on the top, symbolises his wisdom. The illusion of a halo is created by engraving a roundel decorated with lotus petals on the edge. This is another unique feature of Seokguram as other statues of Buddha tend to have the aureole attached to the head. Compare the photos above and below. A crystal or diamond could have been placed in the indentation in the middle of his forehead. Imagine the sunlight streaming into the gloom of the grotto and being reflected by a brilliant gem.

Play eye-spy with your little eye as you try to identify the three bodhisattvas, ten disciples, two Hindu gods in bas-relief AND ten statues of bodhisattvas , saints and faithful followers in the niches PLUS the Eleven-Faced Avalokitesvara standing right behind Buddha.

The ceiling is embellished with half moons and capped with a lotus flower. The design from top to bottom recalls the Jewel Net of Indra. According to Kang Woobang, " an extraordinary craftsman...wove a most excellent net which extends endlessly in all directions. On each knot of this net hung a jewel and the jewels mirrored, not only the adjacent jewels but also the multiple images reflected in them. This is a symbolic explanation of the ever-repeating mutual relationship between all things in the universe."

"One is all, and all is one". Yet doesn't the capstone remind one of a Yin-yang symbol or a divided Korea?

Architects, engineers, stone masons, sculptors, priests, government officials, mathematicians, astronomers and ordinary construction workers worked together to create this thing of scientific marvel, beauty, and spiritual inspiration. Pity they're no longer around - they could've taught the delegates at Copenhagen a thing or two about co-operation, harmony, and the bigger picture.

Sources:
http://www.sacred-destinations.com/south-korea/images/seokguram/resized/buddha-wc-gfdl.jpg

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