Peony Power

Never had the chance to meet a Moran in person.  Am clueless about her scent, despite her inclusion in the L’Occitane range.  Yet, I admit, I’ve been prejudiced against her size and rather ostentatious appearance.  That bias has been reinforced since I saw Dong Yi, the historical drama which featured  Lady Jang Hui-bin (?-1701) , one of "the best known royal concubines of the Joseon Dynasty", according to Wikipedia.  She was an ambitious woman who supposedly  plotted against the queen and succeeded in getting the latter deposed.  In one scene from the popular sageuk,  Lady Jang gives orders to replace the modest bleeding heart flowers in the exiled queen's garden with the more showy peony with their profusion of petals.

So I never really bothered in the past to find out more about this flower known as Moran in Korea or the tree peony to garden enthusiasts. It seemed to be such a cliche in Chinese paintings and folding screens.
But a private joke has got me trawling the Net to learn a bit more about this "King of Flowers" as nicknamed by the Chinese. It represents quite a list of attributes - affluence , honour, high status, luck,  happiness, elegance and poise.

Here is a snippet from primaltrek:

"One legend describes how Wu Zetian, the only Empress (690 -705 AD) of the Tang Dynasty, was drinking one day during the winter in the Imperial Flower Garden. While admiring the snow, she was also captivated by the fragrance of the winter flowers that were in bloom. She wrote a poem and sent it to the god in charge of flowers. The poem said that she would visit the garden again the next day and that all the flowers were to bloom and not wait until spring. The next morning hundreds of flowers were in bloom. But, the peony stubbornly disobeyed the order and refused to bloom. The Empress was enraged and gave orders that all the peonies in the capital city of Chang'an were to be banished. Those tree peonies that refused were burned to the ground. From that time on, the peony gained a reputation for resistance and rebellion. As time passed, however, the peony's reputation softened and gradually changed to one symbolizing longevity, loyalty, happiness and eternal beauty."

A pity. If the flower retained its original symbolism, I think I would like it more. The notion of a flower refusing to kow-tow to royalty seems much more appealing.
 

It also stood for national peace and security during the Joseon period. Perhaps that was what poet Kim Yeong-Nang (1903-1950) was alluding to in his poem below:

Until peonies bloom
I just go on waiting for my spring to come.
On the days when peonies drop, drop their petals,
I finally languish in sorrow at the loss of spring.
One day in May, one sultry day
when the fallen petals have all withered away
and there is no trace of peonies in all the world,
my soaring fulfillment crumbles into irrepressible sorrow.
Once the peonies have finished blooming, my year is done;
for three hundred and sixty gloomy days I sadly lament.
Until peonies bloom
I just go on waiting
for a spring of glorious sorrow.



The flower even has its own genre known as peony paintings. Its profusion of petals has been depicted in peony tassels, hanbok decorations, pillow ends, celadon pieces, in fans used in a traditional dance. Seems as if there is a peony in every nook and corner of traditional Korean culture.

That seems to apply as well to modern Korean designs. The Peony Medal or the Order of Civil Merit was recently awarded to.Kim Yuna; it's the second most presitigious award for civilians.  Check out Margaret Cho’s peony tattoo.

This late bloomer in spring is not just a pretty face - it is surprisingly a pretty tough plant. It's reputed to be low maintenance and can withstand the punishing temperatures of winter. Traditionally valued for its roots which were eaten, the peony was believed to have the power to treat “menstrual cramps, asthma and convulsions”.

These days, to admire the real deal, you could head for Changdeokgung or Deoksugung sometime around May as it blooms in late spring. Unfortunately I doubt I'll have the chance to see this anytime soon, so I just have to try harder not to be so prejudiced against this pretty face and learn to appreciate its multi-faceted nature, whether it's immortalised on a vase...

or an antique teapot....

OR a modern coffee mug with cap....

on paper napkins  ( see above) or treasure chests ( see below)

or super-ornate rice bins or traditional pillow ends.

 

sources:

http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/art/2011/03/148_64050.html

http://hompi.sogang.ac.kr/anthony/KimYeongNang.htm
http://www.theflowerexpert.com/content/mostpopularflowers/morepopularflowers/peonies
http://www.wpro.who.int/internet/files/pub/97/191.pdf
http://www.panoramio.com/photo/52282156
https://thinkingaboutlanguages.wordpress.com/2011/06/18/word-of-the-week-33/
http://www.newsfinder.org/site/more/tree_peony_the_soul_of_china/
http://www.korean-arts.com/images/CV036B-CB037B_pink_peony_5x5.jpg
http://www.koreaherald.com/entertainment/Detail.jsp?newsMLId=20110320000258
http://www.alibaba.com/product-free/103264528/Peony_Rice_Pot_20kg_.html
http://www.alibaba.com/product-free/11855002/Mother_Of_Pearl_Peony_Pirate_Chest.html
http://www.korean-arts.com/images/CS103%20peony%205x5.jpg
http://www.koreanartandantiques.com/items/1060871/en1store.html
http://www.moonscrafts.com/2011/07/korean-pottery-goryeo-sanggam-celadons.html
http://www.dhgate.com/new-arrival-peonies-stamped-wedding-napkins/p-ff808081318f593b0131addcc2897fef.html
http://www.liveauctioneers.com/item/8787806
http://www.greetingcarduniverse.com/thank-you-cards/korean/kamsahamnida-thank-you-in-korean-810799
http://teatrekker.wordpress.com/tag/chinese-12-flowers-of-the-months-teacups-chinese-flower-tea-cups/
http://primaltrek.com/impliedmeaning.html
http://iluvskating.tumblr.com/page/2

Hope Floats

Have to thank MBC for this poignant scene from the historical drama, Dong Yi, in which the heroine finds herself lost among ordinary Koreans releasing lanterns bearing their wishes for the new year. Known in China as "sky lanterns", they apparently originated during the turbulent days of the Three Kingdoms when a besieged group was forced to send messages for additional troops by way of these wind-borne lanterns.



The tradition of expressing one's wishes for the New Year presumably made its way to Korea from China. What I'd like to know is if this charming practice is observed anywhere in Korea these days. I have my doubts given the predominance of high-wire cables and considerations for aviation and high building safety and ecological considerations, despite the assurances of one Chinese manufacturer that the lanterns are made of flame-retardant paper, that its flight altitude is only within 800-1000 meters and that its "burning time" is just between 12 and 15 minutes.

Anyway, here's wishing everyone a Happy 2012 and may your hopes keep afloat indefinitely.

sources:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TDLIOiafkPE
http://www.ec21.com/offer_detail/Sell_Sky_Lantern_Oval_Shape--12755845.html

Expect Slower-Moving Queues At Immigration Counters in ROK

If you are a non-Korean national, over 17 and not a diplomat, be prepared for longer lines at entry points into South Korea like Incheon International Airport, with effect from January the first.



Reason : The Justice Ministry insists on scanning your fingerprints and face when you wait in line to have your passport stamped before you are allowed entry into the country. If you want to kick up a fuss about the tedious and inconvenient biometric scanning procedures, be prepared to be refused admission into the country.

Actually, biometric scanning isn't a new thing in RoK - it has been applied to those entering the country from places regarded as high-risk ( in the eyes of the Korea Immigration Service) since September, 2010 as well as to long-term staying foreigners. Besides, those used to travelling a lot around the world should already be familiar with such inconveniences as biometric scans have been part of entry procedures in the US, Japan and the EC in one way or another for some time already. However, security measures are being tightened ahead of  the Nuclear Security Summit which will be held in Seoul early next year.

According to one source, "Biometric scanning will be conducted in 11 different languages including English, Chinese and Japanese. The process potentially could double the amount of time that it takes to pass through immigration. At the immigration desk, foreigners entering the country for the first time will have both index fingers and their faces scanned as part of the Justice Ministry’s Biometric Identification System."

Make sure your MP3 or IPad batteries are fully charged before you join the long lines at the immigration counters in Korea. If not, pack a novel and look upon the occasion as an opportunity to practise patience. As for those in tour groups, good luck and do consider solo travel to Korea in the future!

sources:
http://english.chosun.com/site/data/html_dir/2011/12/27/2011122701407.html
http://www.koreaherald.com/national/Detail.jsp?newsMLId=20111226000712
http://english.yonhapnews.co.kr/news/2011/12/27/0200000000AEN20111227006700315.HTML?source=rss
http://www.nowtheendbegins.com/blog/?p=6830
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qOmT2vkdGi0&feature=player_embedded

Kpop As YouTube Genre

These days, when one's fame is measured in terms of the number of Facebook "likes", it's a sure sign that Hallyu has spread its wings beyond the Asian market when it has been listed as a genre on the Youtube music website since 15th December. This is probably the first time the pop music of a particular country has been highlighted, much to the delight of fans of Super Junior, Girls' Generation and so on.

BUT, what about those outside Kpop mainstream?  Don't know when Fluxus's Channel first appeared on cyberspace but here's hoping more people around the world will become familiar with these indie musicians like Yi Sung-yol, W and Whale, Ibadi and Clazziquai.

Sources:
http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/program/program_musicnews_detail.htm?No=17070
http://www.youtube.com/profile?feature=iv&annotation_id=annotation_776510&user=fluxus&src_vid=ScURmRUgZt0

Can Korean Doctors Help Acid Attack Victim?

I’ll stop complaining to myself about having a bummer 2011 because I’ve just been reminded indirectly by a news article that others have had it worse. This week, a fellow Malaysian is in South Korea in the hope that doctors in the JK Plastic Surgery Centre in Seoul will be able to help her regain some normalcy after a nightmarish acid attack a few years earlier left her partially blinded and badly scarred. It was particularly harrowing because her own father , who was mentally unsound, was the assailant and her mother died as a result of that attack.


When I first saw the news that Tan Hui Linn was going to receive pro bono treatment under a Medical Korea project, the cynical side of me, I’m ashamed to admit, was thinking – Oh, what a clever way to boost medical tourism in the country. But what really matters is that Hui Linn’s time in Korea won’t be wasted and that her body won’t reject the skin transplants so that the surgeries can indeed take place.

So, here’s wishing Hui Linn all the very best and thank you very much to the Ministry of Health and Welfare and those involved in the Medical Korea project for helping her . Hopefully it will turn out to be a win-win situation for all but especially for this plucky schoolgirl who managed to do well in her exams despite her personal tragedies.

Sources:

http://www.asiaone.com/News/The%2BNew%2BPaper/Story/A1Story20100209-197648.html
http://thestar.com.my/news/story.asp?file=/2011/12/16/nation/10105522&sec=nation
http://www.whatsontianjin.com/news-2057-tan-hui-linn-m-sian-acid-attack-victim-scarred-by-dad-to-get-surgeries-in-s-korea.html
http://www.koreaherald.com/national/Detail.jsp?newsMLId=20111215000893
http://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/medical-korea-concludes-korea-medical-charity-program-for-2011-134901788.html
http://www.medicalkorea.or.kr/eng/index.jsp
http://www.lifestylermag.com/Korean_Wave
http://english.jkplastic.com/jk_about/overview_01.html
http://www.acidviolence.org/index.php/news/malaysian-acid-attack-survivor-to-undergo-plastic-surgery-in-south-korea/

SKC Hallyu Party 2011

Dear Mr Yun Jae Jin (Managing Director of KTO KL) and the Board of Directors of SKC in Malaysia,

Gamsa –hamnida once again for inviting me to the SKC ( Saranghaeyo Korea Club) Hallyu Party 2011 held on the 4 Dec 2011 in Petaling Jaya. I thought I would be late for the event as the traffic was moving quite slowly so it was a relief to see the long lines of SKC members lined up outside the doors of the Bentley Auditorium. The e-mail confirming the invitation had reminded us to turn up in either red and blue and I half expected the hall to be also decked out in the traditional red and blue lanterns. But when the doors finally opened, there didn’t seem to be any special decorations.

Not that anyone was complaining – those who had attended a K-pop concert the night before were probably still keyed –up about having seen their fav SuJu singer perform while others were keeping their fingers crossed and praying to win some attractive lucky draw prizes such as a hanky set from Jeju, Hanji tray, K dolls, 2PM CDs, Samsung camera, LG mobile phone, AirAsiaX tickets to Seoul.. I wasn’t holding my breath and expecting to win anything but I think I would’ve dug a little deeper into my purse if I had known earlier that proceeds for the sale of the RM 5 raffle tickets would go to the Cancer Society of Malaysia. Still, it was nice to know that we were doing something to help the community.

Your speech ( Mr Yun’s ) was short and sweet but what impressed me most was the fact that you’ve picked up quite a few of the local languages, greeting members of the audience in English, Malay and Cantonese. I could see quite a few of the members of the SKC Board of Directors busy organising the events with the help of the  “shepherds” ( volunteers from the SKC, I am assuming). Sophia, Yee Pei  and Tyra were enthusiastic MCs who were pretty comfortable getting the audience up on their feet to regroup according to the Hangul character stickers on their sleeves.

The young ones were soon happily engrossed in the first group game with the musical challenge, “How K-pop Are You?” Those on the floor were eager to prove how well they could identify different K-pop songs while others like myself literally on the sidelines and sitting out on the chairs may have been bemused by the shrieks of recognition each time a few bars of music was played . I was equally baffled by the second game which seem to require pretty extensive knowledge of the lives of K-celebrities.

The winners, identified after a few elimination rounds, were presented with packets of instant ramyeon ( hopefully, they were imported from Korea and not the Made-In-China version).

Long lines quickly formed during the tea break. Happily SKC fans were very civilised and patient waiting their turns. The theme seemed to be Street Fare -it was kindly sponsored by Hanseong, a local Korean restaurant, The gimbap was delicious and the tteokbokki was equally well-received though it was uncharacteristically distributed in small paper cups. Choco pies and fizzy drinks completed the menu.

Thank you, Hanseong for the spread and thanks to Yokee, BoD member and other volunteers for serving us so patiently. ( I hope I got the names right!)

Dances by various girl or boy groups such as Epsilon , Ruffneckz and Progression provided additional entertainment as they performed the latest hits from Miss A, Wondergirls and Suju. They seemed to garner as many screams of excitement as the original Hallyu singers. Once again, I was struck by the way the demographics have changed so rapidly. Unlike the first generation of ajummas who were besotted with K –dramas, the younger set have first fallen in love with K-pop.

I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again – this will be an interesting challenge for the KTO and SKC BoD – how do you cater to the different interest and age groups ( assuming you are equally interested in reaching out to two separate segments of the market)? What about SKC members outside the Klang Valley especially those in other states?

Anyway, thanks for all the hard work in organising the SKC Party 2011, thank you for the lovely calendar and here’s wishing all of you an even more eventful 2012!

Sincerely,
ajumma

P. S. Have you checked out my Open Letter in Inspiring Korea Night 2010?

I'll Remember MAMA Part 2

Here's the continuation of what made me half-glad and half regretful that I spent four hours in front of the telly to catch the delayed telecast of MAMA 2011.




5. Fann Wong's fashion question-mark - What on earth was she wearing??? Apologies to the fans of "Singapore's National Treasure" but she looked as if she was determined NOT to aim for conventional glamour in that strange garb. But hey, what do I know about fashion and why should I care about her wardrobe choices???





6. Ulala's spirited performance

Each time I start feeling sorry for myself, I must remember Im Yoon-taek's never-say-die spirit. Despite suffering from stage four cancer, he was able to perform with the other three members of Ulala Session. His baggy clothes couldn't hide his thinness but what really stood out was their energy and heart. These winners of Season 3 of "Superstar K" looked like the real deal ,IMHO, compared to the well-oiled machinery of the more well-established boy bands.





7. I'd sooner forget the painfully awkward sight of stiff kids in yellow T-shirts shepherded onto stage to stand in line in the background and instructed to hold yellow balloons and wave their hands as Apl.de.Ap. of the Black-eyed Peas sings "We Can Be Anything". Spare me the cliche, please. It's too corny to be even cute.




8. Wowed by will-i-am's performance of "The Hardest Ever" but was that really him or a dancer with the image of will.i.am's head on the TV screen as the head? Haven't seen any 'live' concerts for years and this inventive and theatrical number shows me what I've been missing.

To Be Continued....

Sources:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GeMBaGuzhk8&feature=related
http://www.koreaboo.com/index.html/_/general/ulala-session-says-we-hope-to-be-more-tha-r11836
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1tzGwMKCrF4&feature=player_embedded
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c1eyPMCmZUI&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c1eyPMCmZUI&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OeKWdH3hhD4

I'll Remember MAMA...part 1

Here's a list of ELEVEN things that impressed me or depressed me about the recent M.Net Music Awards ceremony held in Singapore.  I'll remember MAMA 2011 for....

1. Lee Byung Hyun - working his charm and speaking "da England" quite convincingly. Wonder who's his diction teacher???



2.  Screams of  Kpop fans during Lang Lang's performance. Beethoven would've turned in his grave if he heard the excited howls punctuating "Moonlight Sonata".


3. The lack of subtitling or rather, subtitles in English, made me wonder why MAMA bothered to have the show in Singapore if it was catering to the home audience. Or does MAMA think the ample provision of eye candy such as Han Chae-young in a stunning Dolce and Gabbana gown and Bae Su-bin in a tux would be sufficient to keep Hallyu fans happy? Personally, I'd still like to know what the presenters were saying, even though the chatter may be trite. MAMA, please remember, if you wanna go global, you gotta go with the flow and that means hiring people who can translate Korean into English pronto.




4. Great stage. Could hardly believe my eyes. Was that really the Singapore Indoor Stadium? Looked like MAMA played fairy godmother to her Cinderella and the SIS was magically transformed into the belle of the ball. One report pointed out that the stage featured the Chinese character, "ren" to signify people and how music brought people together. Particularly loved the work of the lighting director and the special effects which almost made up for the absence of English subtitles. One example here in 2NE1's performance.

To be continued.....

http://www.enewsworld.com/enews/contents.asp?idx=1806
http://www.channelnewsasia.com/photosgallery/gallery_20111129171430.htm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G_5lzbIZ_DY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=G_5lzbIZ_DY#!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mAHD0aFt45A

Seoul Lantern Festival Lights Up Tonight

The Seoul Lantern Festival ( not be confused with the Lotus Lantern Festival) starts this evening with a lighting ceremony at Cheonggye Plaza at Cheonggyecheon. The lantern display stretches all the way to Gwansugyo (Bridge) and they will be lit up from 5 pm to 11 pm each evening until the 20th of November.

The theme for this annual festival is  "Stories of Seoul's Past through Lanterns" so expect to see lots of traditional motifs.

Checklist of lanterns to snap  to post on Flickr:

Cheongsachorong,  the red-blue lantern, used for wedding ceremonies,

was also used as the logo for  the G20 summit last year.

1. an 18-meter lantern tunnel made up of over 3,000 cheongsachorong (traditional Korean lanterns with a red-and-blue silk shade)

2. a  model lantern of Namdaemun Gate

3.  Haechi, Seoul's mascot


Lanterns from twenty other countries as well as those by participants in a local competition will also be showcased. If all that viewing whets your appetite, try making your own lanterns at Gwanggyo Gallery. Handicraft activities start on November 5th.

Charges apply, of course. To make your own Wish Lantern, you'd have to cough up 5,000 won and for the privilege of floating your own lantern on the Cheonggyecheon, you'd need to pay 2,000 won. Don't see how the latter can be enforced given the length of the stream and the expected crowds. I suppose any unauthorised lantern will be fished out unceremoniously.

For more info, click here.

sources:
http://www.visitseoul.net/en/article/article.do?_method=view&art_id=48789&lang=en&m=0003001006003&p=06&gclid=CObQovi5nKwCFYka6wodMnSD2A
http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/news/news_photo.htm?No=17410#
http://www.exploringkorea.com/seoul-lantern-festival-2011/
http://english.chosun.com/site/data/html_dir/2011/11/04/2011110400936.html
http://english.chosun.com/site/data/html_dir/2010/07/09/2010070900974.html
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/FU/FU_EN_15.jsp?nCategoryID=1&SearchType=&keyword=&gotoPage=1&cid=1424125&cCode=&nCategoryID=&searchType=&searchKeyword=

MAMA's Making Rounds In Asia

Kpop lovers in Asia have more reason to celebrate now that Mnet Asia Music Awards ( affectionately   dubbed MAMA) has ambitions to be the "Grammys ofis  the East" and  is holding its award ceremonies outside Korea.



Last year,  the 12th MAMA was held in Macau. This year, Singaporean fans as well as well-heeled neighbours from Malaysia, Indonesia and Thailand can scream their hearts out at the Singapore Indoor Stadium on the 29th November to welcome their favourite Kpop idols. Consolation for those who can't book their tickets to Singapore, MAMA 2011 will be broadcasted in 19 countries, including live in Korea, Singapore, Japan, Hong Kong, Thailand and Malaysia.

The line-up will probably include appearances by nominees such as TVXQ, B2ST, Big Bang, Super Junior,2PM,  Brown Eyed Girls, Girls’ Generation, Kara, 2NE1, Kim Hyun-joong, Park Jae-beom, Jang Woo-hyuk, HyunA and G.NA.

That Singapore's Mediacorp and the Singapore Tourism Board is using the pop culture of another country to boost its own tourism industry isn't anything new. Think Universal Studios on Sentosa which has just recently announced a hike in entrance fees.  If things work well in Singapore, MAMA will probably do the rounds and visit China, Japan, Malaysia and Indonesia in the future. Imagine MAMA set against the backdrop of the Twin Towers in KLCC or the Shanghai Bund. Question is: What happened to MAMA attracting Kpop lovers to Korea? What has KTO to say to MAMA's ties with tourism promotion boards of other countries?

source:
http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/art/2011/11/143_97807.html

Good News For Gingko Tree Lovers

For the first time in twenty years, a private gingko forest has been opened for public viewing somewhere on the foothills of Odaesan. It may not seem very big, standing at  43,000 sq m. ( about the size of a baseball stadium) but many of the trees here are more than 30 years old.

Gamsa hamnida to the owner and patient planter of these trees, Yoo Ki-chun. Apparently he bought the abandoned land 20 years ago and planted gingko trees when he realised the soil wasn't suitable for fruit trees.

The reporter from Arirang News who covered this story didn't indicate if there was any admission charge nor were there any details about how to get to Mr Yoo's estate So watch this space as I try to get more information to update this page if picnicking under the golden shade of these most elegant and hardy trees in autumn is on your bucket list.

BTW, interesting that Odaesan seems to be enjoying a fair bit of limelight in the local press of late. First, it gets the title of No 1 Most Beautiful Forest in Korea for 2011 and now this. Just how close is it to Pyeongchang?

Meanwhile if you're not venturing beyond Seoul but want to feast your eyes on this goldern hoard, check out these gingko trees at the Olympic Park in the capital.

Gingko gold in Seoul's Olympic Park

sources:
http://english.chosun.com/site/data/html_dir/2011/10/31/2011103101346.html
http://eng.me.go.kr/content.do?method=moveContent&menuCode=res_tou_pak_kor_odaesan
http://english.chosun.com/site/data/html_dir/2011/10/31/2011103100367.html#

The Most Beautiful Forest in Korea for 2011

Beats me what kind of yardstick is used by the Korea Forest Service when it comes to ranking their forests and one wonders why it seems necessary in the first place to have such a list in the first place.

Anyway, they've just declared on 26th October that the "MOST BEAUTIFUL FOREST FOR 2011"...drumroll please... is...in Odaesan in Gangwon-do.

Odaesan in winter

In particular, the stretch of fir forest sandwiched between the Iljimun ( One Pillar Gate) at the entrance of  Woljeong Temple and the Kumgang Bridge is supposed to be particularly fetching. Tree huggers can take their pick from the 1,700 fir trees in this area. But do handle them with some respect. The  average age of these firs is about 83 years, but there are  some which are over 3 CENTURIES old. Now , that's impressive.

The  fir forest of Woljeong Temple on Mount Odae, Gangwon Province.

Must check out what was the Most Beautiful Forest for the past years.


sources:
http://english.hani.co.kr/arti/english_edition/e_entertainment/502726.html
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264215

M Pass (Metropolitan Pass ) Coming Soon

Good news for visitors to South Korea. From December onwards, you can buy new multiple-ride transit passes and enjoy greater savings as you plan day trips between Seoul and some other cities in the country.

Ask for the M-Pass but before that, plan carefully as you have to decide between purchasing the one-day pass ( which costs 10,000 won and lets you take up to 20 subway trips ) or opt for the 2-day, 3-day or 7-day pass instead.

According to the Korean Herald and Yonhap News, " The passes currently are only for travel on subway lines and a railway linking Incheon International Airport to Seoul, but will later be expanded to include all regular buses in the capital area. Discounts on admissions to royal palaces and other tourist destinations will also be given to foreigners with passes."

Never really bothered about checking out passes for transportation around Seoul before but now that I've done a bit of surfing, the options seem to be increasing and at the same time, a tad migraine-inducing if you're like me and hate making consumer comparisons.

Seoul City Plus Passes - Choices Within Choices

How, for instance, does the M-Pass differ from the Seoul City Pass OR  the T-Money card OR  the Seoul City Plus Pass?  Points of comparison include coverage ( can it be used on local buses and subways outside Seoul? ), mode of recharging and refunds and  additional discounts for tourist attractions.

I'll leave you to do the math.

 The assumption seems to be that most tourists prefer to make Seoul their base but what about those who are not particularly keen on spending so much time in the capital?

Personally, I'd prefer to have a travel pass that gets me on any provincial, local and inter-city bus so that I can travel out  from Incheon International Airport, avoid the traffic snarls of Seoul and head directly for the hills. It's early days yet so it would be interesting to see which cities or towns outside Seoul will be involved in this scheme.

sources:
http://www.koreaherald.com/national/Detail.jsp?newsMLId=20111020000820
http://visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=261307
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/TR/TR_EN_5_4.jsp

To Olle OR Dulle?

This is a promise to myself. As soon as I can, I’ll head for the hills. In South Korea, that is. First, a quick own-up: I like walking but I’m not a great nor good walker. Still, I love the low humidity, the autumn colours and very accessible walking paths in the ROK. Question is: given the usual shortage of time and won, a hard choice is imminent. Do I do the Dulle or the Olle?

The Dulle Trail in Jirisan ( source: JoongAng Ilbo)

Been following Steve Oberhauser’s account of his marathon exploration of all the hiking trails in Jeju known as the Olle Trails ( link) in The Jeju Weekly. I’d like to follow some of his footsteps ( but definitely not his Spartan diet ) but for the moment, I’m still waiting for him to complete and evaluate all twenty-one trails on the island before deciding which one is safer, easier and still rewarding scenic-wise for this ajumma.

There’s another Dulle Trail on the mainland in Jirisan National Park that looks immediately promising –that’s the trail between Jucheon in Jeollabukdo and Sancheong in Jeollanamdo. While I’m not likely to complete the full 70-km course, it’s supposed to be “perfect for those who are looking for a relaxing walk rather than a steep mountain climb”

OR if I’m really strapped for time….

Bukhansan Dulle Trails

I could attempt a teeny section of the 44 km- Dulle Trail around Bukhansan near Seoul. Apparently it’s a wooden walkway that’s easy on the legs, knees and heart. But if I still feel as if the stretch is taking its toll on my never-been-in-decent-condition body, I can look forward to the 35 benches along this novice-friendly trail.

Smartphone owners are even more spoilt as apps on the Andriod platform are available for five trails out of the 13 Bukhansan Dullegil trails. You can get easy access to maps, side trails information and interesting explanations about highlights along the courses. The information is available in English, Korean and Japanese. Check out the official website of Korea National Park Organization (www.knps.or.kr) and Bukhansan Dullegil (http://ecotour.knps.or.kr/dulegil/index.asp).


But if you think all this is too lame for you, then check out the Haeparang Road, once it’s completed in 2014. This 688-km trail will stretch from Busan all the way up to Goseong’s Unification Observatory near the DMZ. A perhaps over-enthusiastic spokesperson for the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism even indicated to the press that the trail could even reach Russia’s Vladivostock in the future.


Sources:
http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2926536
http://www.koreaherald.com/lifestyle/Detail.jsp?newsMLId=20100915000631
http://www.panoramio.com/photo/51299295  joey janzen olle_jeju1
http://android-apps.com/applications/travel-local/bukhansan-dulle-gil/
http://www.jejuweekly.com/news/articleList.html?sc_sub_section_code=S2N63
http://ecotour.knps.or.kr/dulegil/index_e.asp
http://eckorea.ecplaza.net/news/13/48405/seoul_to_create_a_200kilometer.html

In Pursuit of Autumn Colours In Korea 2011

 Capture the silvery, delicate beauty of  eulalia or pampas grass ( Haneul Park in Seoul. /Newsis)  

Stunning maple reds are expected to be in full display between 18th and  20th October in Seoraksan. Brace yourselves for crowded trails and be prepared to share the beautiful scenery with hordes of visitors and wait in line to snap photos of your loved ones posing beside a particularly pretty tree.

The trees in Yeouido in Seoul are already changing colour also.

Fall foliage is expected to peak around 22nd of October.

Check out the photos of Korea's autumn colours on this blog for some inspiration.

Some hints from an amateur for great shots:

1. Go early to avoid heads intruding into your photos.

2. Head for the temples in the national and provincial parks.

3. Balance close-ups and wide-angle shots.

sources:

http://english.chosun.com/site/data/html_dir/2011/10/11/2011101100390.html

http://english.chosun.com/site/data/html_dir/2011/10/03/2011100300354.html
http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/nation/2011/10/115_96329.html
http://www.pbase.com/dbh/autumn

Autumn Leaves Schedule for Korea, 2011

Here's the 2011 Fall Foliage Schedule, lifted from the KTO website.

"The Korea Meteorological Administration recently announced that the autumnal tint will be making its appearance 1-6 days later than it has in previous years. Leaves on Jirisan Mountain and the central regions of Korea are expected to start changing between October 3rd and 19th, while the southern regions will start experiencing the seasonal bursts of color between October 13th and 30th.

The first foliage* of Seoraksan Mountain is predicted to start around October 3rd, and will reach its peak** around October 18th. The peak time of fall foliage on Naejangsan Mountain will be around the 7th of November. Last but not least, the autumnal tint will peak in the central regions and Jirisan Mountain around middle to late October, and in the southern regions around late October to early November.

2011 Autumn Foliage Schedule ( I've just selected some national parks. For the full schedule, click here.)

How to Read the Info Below:
National Park - Date for First Foliage - Date for the Peak Foliage

NOTE:

*First foliage = 20% of a given area’s foliage has changed color
**Peak foliage = 80% or more of a given area’s foliage has changed colors


Seoraksan  in Gangwon-do (설악산) 10.3 - 10.20
Bukhansan  in Gyeonggi-do, nearest to Seoul  (북한산) 10.19 -  10.28
Naejangsan, a popular place for viewing maple reds (내장산) 10.26 -  11.7
Jirisan - one of the biggest national parks (지리산) 10.13 10.23
Hallasan on Jeju-do (한라산) 10.17- 10.28

See earlier posting on shorter autumns in Korea

sources:
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/FU/FU_EN_15.jsp?cid=1391042
Courtesy of: Korea Meteorological Administration

Autumn Leaves in South Korea - ETA for 2011

Make your date with the autumn leaves in Korea in October - but look sharp. The season, as I've suspected, is getting shorter and more elusive. See the KBS news article below:

from 2010's autumn foliage schedule posted on the KTO website

From the KBS news website:
"Autumn foliage will appear later than usual this year and the beautiful colors of the changing leaves won't last as long. The Korea Meteorological Administration forecasts that leaves are expected to change color first at Mount Seorak around October third and at Mount Jiri around the 13th. The foilage at Mount Bukhan will begin to turn red around the 19th. These dates are three to four days later than average.

But the crimson foliage is expected to reach its peak faster this year, from mid-October in the central region and late October in the south. The weather agency says higher than normal temperatures through mid-September will push back the start of the turning of the leaves but as temps go down from later this month, the changing of colors will pick up speed."


Same news from Arirang:
"Autumn is here in Korea and you can see the leaves turning a beautiful red at Mt. Seorak starting October 3rd.The Korea Meteorological Administration says the fall foliage will move through late October peaking two weeks after the first showing. High temperatures this month have delayed start of the changing colors compared to an average year by about one to six days depending on the region."

Click here for a comparison with 2010 and with 2009.  Am waiting for the official schedule published by KTO and will post here ASAP for fall foliage hunters.

Sources:

http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/news/news_Sc_detail.htm?No=84575&id=Sc
http://www.arirang.co.kr/News/News_View.asp?nseq=120474&code=Ne2&category=2

"Those Were The Days" - A Sunim's Version With Interjections and Questions

Came across this article in the Joong Ang Daily ( my comments and questions in parentheses). I used to toy with the idea of spending time learning temple cuisine in a future visit to Korea but now am having second thoughts. Shows you how faint-hearted I am.

"The following is an account by monk Shimwoo, in his own words, of the history of temple food at Haein Temple. He explains how the kitchens operated before gas boilers were installed in 1987, when the monks had to rely on wood fires, and how discipline was even stricter then than it is now.

 

Haeinsa's Kitchen - No need for Gordon Ramsay here

The kitchen in Haein Temple has now been modernized, but before 1987 we still used wood fire stoves and iron cauldrons. For junior students who were yet to become monks, their duties often involved menial chores and cooking in the kitchen. Their daily work was supervised on a much stricter basis than it is now. Back then, if you were placed in the kitchen to, for example, make the rice, you would have to do that for an entire year.

( First thing that surprises me is that monks do the cooking 'cause in all the temples I've visited so far, I've only seen ajummas doing all the kitchen work. So how has this regime become more lax - do junior monks  have to cook rice for only 6 months before they're allowed to do anything else?)

"Meanwhile, the apprentice monks who were in charge of making side dishes would have to cut the food to exactly the set length. For kimchi, the set length was three centimeters, for kkakdugi (diced radish kimchi) it was 3.5 centimeters, while for tofu the length was 10 centimeters.

( Whoa - this is formidable. I tend to be pretty crude and slapdash in my chopping, slicing and dicing. Anyway, for people who are supposed to be Zen-like and not get hung up on trivial things, why  should the length and breadth of my carrot sticks matter?)

This rigorous kitchen work was a way of testing their willpower. The time they spent in the kitchen was a time for them to ask themselves if this was the way they wanted to live their lives. Back during that period, when a military government ruled the country, there were many people who came here to become monks. We used to welcome around 10 people every day. But after experiencing how hard the kitchen work was, most of them left.

( Which makes me even more faint-hearted than those people 'cause I'm now considering not signing up at all!)

When I think back to that time, a time when we didn’t have gas boilers inside the kitchen, there were many comic episodes that occurred. In the temple’s kitchen, we had a tradition of making rice for 500 people in just five minutes - which was very taxing for the junior monks. When I was in that role, I also had to do this. To make steamed rice for 500 people, you need 25 doe (a Korean unit of measurement that is equal to around 1.8 liters) of rice, or around 50 kg in weight. As soon as the person in charge of the fire finished lighting up the charcoal, the monk in charge of the rice would have to pour all the rice into the boiling hot water as quickly as possible and then close the cauldron lid. While the rice was cooking, the junior monk would have to stand next to the iron caldron in case anything went wrong. Because the caldron was steaming hot, anyone who stood next to it would soon be drenched in sweat. There were many times when junior monks collapsed due to all the heat as they were standing next to the giant cauldron. Then, after four minutes and 55 seconds, the monk in charge of the whole operation would yell out “put the fire out!” The timing is very important, as steamed rice can taste totally different even if you get the cooking time wrong by as little as 1/100th of a second.

( I guess that's why the juniors needed a year to learn to cook rice. Reminder to myself to ask for cooking lessons in a small hermitage kitchen instead of a gargantuan institution like Haeinsa. )

When you are making rice for 500 people, there is bound to be a lot of nurungji (crust of overcooked rice left on the bottom of the pot). The amount of nurungji that we stored for a year was huge. We would put it in a separate wooden rice chest and use it to make gochujang. So, on the day we made gochujang at the temple, the monks would take the nurungji to the nearest rice mill and grind it. Then we would mix red pepper flakes, ground nurungji powder and starch syrup to make gochujang. The gochujang we made from nurungji was so nutty and delicious. It has to be tasted to be believed.

( And here I was thinking that nurungji was something one made into a delicious drink or candy. Wonder whether I can purchase this gochujang at other places besides Haeinsa?)

Click here for directions on how to get to Haeinsa -whether you're checking out its famed printing woodblocks or its kitchen.
source:
http://koreajoongangdaily.joinsmsn.com/news/article/Article.aspx?aid=2940656
http://visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264238

Temple Sells Sauces

Fancy some temple-made gochujang? For those who like organic foodstuff free of additives and made from the purest natural ingredients, you may be happy to hear that the monks of Haeinsa are going commercial and selling their sauces like doenjang (soybean paste), ganjang (soy sauce) and gochujang (red pepper paste) to the public soon.

How will the temple jang compare to Shin's brand of gochujang?

What makes their sauces exceptional? As the article from Joong Ang Daily claims: "As the sauces need specific conditions to flourish, the surrounding environment, with its light rain, high daily temperatures and cool nights, makes it the perfect production base. Monks have known about the quality of the water produced around the temple for centuries. It derives from the Gobulam Mineral Spring, located at an altitude of 950 meters (3,117 ft), giving it a clean, crisp quality. Sounds as squeaky clean as the Sound of Music.

Will Haeinsa's sauces become more famous than its wooden printing blocks?

The official launch of the Haein Temple Jang brand will coincide with the Millennial Anniversary of the Tripitaka Koreana. Make your way to the main event hall of the Changwon Exhibition Center in Hapcheon, South Gyeongsang, from Sept. 23 to Nov. 6. to buy these sauces. Prices have not been confirmed but you may expect to pay around 18,000 won per kg. You may have to cough up an additional 10,000 won to enter the Millennial Anniversary Exhibition, though.

For more information, visit www.tripitaka2011.com or call (070) 4251-9200.


sources:
http://koreajoongangdaily.joinsmsn.com/news/article/Article.aspx?aid=2940657
http://www.sanchon.com/english/Temple/temple4.html
http://visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264238

Gochangeupseong Fortress: In the Footsteps of KBS's Hwang Jin-yi, Part 2

 The scene in which Ha Ji-won’s Hwangjinyi practises her dance before her first love, the impressionable and impetuous aristocrat ( played by Jang Geun-seuk) was shot at Gochang- eupseong.



See the last few minutes of this Youtube video from the KBS drama. 
Now I’ve been to other fortresses before in South Korea such as Nagan-eupseong, the fortress at Gongju and Hwaseong in Suwon, so what would make Historic Site No. 145 in Gochang-gun in North Jeolla Province (Jeollabuk-do) so special and worth visiting?

 Various sources suggest visitors take note of its distinctive round walls outside the fortress gates erected during the early Joseon Dynasty, a moat to discourage invaders and the absence of private dwellings ( unlike Naganeupseong, for instance) with only government buildings erected within its walls.

But I think what gives Gochang-eupseong its unique charm is its story of WOMEN POWER.

Professor Hur Kyoung-jin recounts a legend in the Spring 2005 edition of Koreana:
“At one time, two ramparts had to be built in the region at the same time, so men built one section at Seosan while women built another at Gochang. As an incentive, it had been decided that whichever town completed its walls first would be awarded a local magistracy…. However, since the men underrated the women, they would wile away the time in drink and merriment. In contrast, the women worked ceaselessly, hauling the stones and building the walls, without taking breaks. In the end, their steady efforts enabled the Gochang walls to be completed first. "

Dapseong Nori (walk around fortress) is held during the Gochang Moyang Fortress Festival 

( before or after September 9th in lunar calendar)

"To commemorate this legendary event, every year the women of Gochang walk all along the walls as part of a ‘wall-stamping’ festival. It is believed that anyone who walks the full length of the walls will be assured of good health and a long life. The effects are said to be especially beneficial if carried out during a leap year, when the gates to the afterworld would be open.”

A full circuit of these walls once is supposed to "prevent disease".

 Go round TWICE to enjoy a lifetime of good health AND

if you've the stamina to repeat the promenade for the THIRD time,

you've secured your ticket to heaven.

So if I manage to make my way to Gochang on the ninth day of the ninth lunar month, I'd need to bear in mind a few things:

1. Find out from the KTO when AND WHERE exactly this picturesque ceremony takes place. One blogger was too late for the event and had to be content with the sideshows.  Must remember to ask for the specific gate where this annual parade begins and ends.

2. I must NOT expect dramatic sights of ladies in hanbok gracefully and stoically bearing big rocks above their heads. Apparently, custom only requires symbolic gestures and the modern-day ajumma need only carry a stone as big as her dainty fist.

3. It's a 10-min walk from Gochang Bus Terminal to get to  Gochangeupseong.

sources:
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=658574
http://culture.gochang.go.kr/site_english/
http://culture.gochang.go.kr/site_english/festival/07-01.htm
http://jikimi.cha.go.kr/english/
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cvZxuVlq45Y
http://koreana.kf.or.kr/popup.asp?flag=view&article_id=5789&sword=gochangeupseong&volumn=19&no=1&lang=English