A Longer, Closer Look at Seokguram, Part 2

Seokbulsa ( Stone Buddha Temple) became known as Seokguram during the Japanese colonial period. More than 1200 years old, it has been listed as a World Cultural Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1995. National Treasure No. 24 of Korea is situated facing the East Sea on Tohamsan, Gyeongju.

This model from the Shilla Art and Science Museum reminds visitors that Seokguram isn't a temple built into a dug-out cave. It's actually a fully man-made construct built from granite upon a mountain-top. This type of grotto, called a "caitya" cave ( literally, a sanctuary)  is unlike the "vihara" caves ( shelter for monks with a chapel)  usually found in India and China.

The cut-away model here shows the rectangular antechamber which stands for earth. It leads to a short vestibule before the main domed chamber representing heaven. The mathematical precision of the structure suggests adherence to the architectural principles of the Golden Rectangle and La Porte d'Harmonie ( The Door of Harmony).

Thirty wedge-shaped rocks called "Dong-tul" arranged in a square shape are part of what makes Seokguram grotto special. The ingenious ventilation system, comprising five air passages above the shrine, have also contributed to the longevity of Seokguram. Ancient devotees could walk around the seated Buddha and pay closer attention to the fifteen panels of bodhisattvas, arhats and ancient Indian gods as well as ten miniatures of saints in the niches above.

Bas-relief carvings of two Vajrapanis, guardians of the temples make threatening gestures at the entrance into the rotunda.

The skill of Shilla stone masons is to be admired as they transform granite into facial creases, rippling muscles and flowing pants.

 Buddha here is carved from a single granite block. There's some debate as to which Buddha he actually stands for - Seokgamoni or some other incarnation.

Buddha's lotus-shaped seat on a stone foundation is 1.34 meters tall. Lotus petals form the top and bottom sections while eight panels are sandwiched in between.

Buddha's hand positions ( mudras) signify his enlightenment. His right hand touches the earth; either this means him calling the earth to bear witness to his enlightenment. Check out the second video in the previous posting for a close-up shot which shows lines carved into his open palm.

The usnisa , which is the part of the head protruding on the top, symbolises his wisdom. The illusion of a halo is created by engraving a roundel decorated with lotus petals on the edge. This is another unique feature of Seokguram as other statues of Buddha tend to have the aureole attached to the head. Compare the photos above and below. A crystal or diamond could have been placed in the indentation in the middle of his forehead. Imagine the sunlight streaming into the gloom of the grotto and being reflected by a brilliant gem.

Play eye-spy with your little eye as you try to identify the three bodhisattvas, ten disciples, two Hindu gods in bas-relief AND ten statues of bodhisattvas , saints and faithful followers in the niches PLUS the Eleven-Faced Avalokitesvara standing right behind Buddha.

The ceiling is embellished with half moons and capped with a lotus flower. The design from top to bottom recalls the Jewel Net of Indra. According to Kang Woobang, " an extraordinary craftsman...wove a most excellent net which extends endlessly in all directions. On each knot of this net hung a jewel and the jewels mirrored, not only the adjacent jewels but also the multiple images reflected in them. This is a symbolic explanation of the ever-repeating mutual relationship between all things in the universe."

"One is all, and all is one". Yet doesn't the capstone remind one of a Yin-yang symbol or a divided Korea?

Architects, engineers, stone masons, sculptors, priests, government officials, mathematicians, astronomers and ordinary construction workers worked together to create this thing of scientific marvel, beauty, and spiritual inspiration. Pity they're no longer around - they could've taught the delegates at Copenhagen a thing or two about co-operation, harmony, and the bigger picture.

Sources:
http://www.sacred-destinations.com/south-korea/images/seokguram/resized/buddha-wc-gfdl.jpg

http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/asis/wallpaper/0707/paper0707_03_1024.jpg
http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/AK/AK_EN_1_6_4_5.jsp
http://english.cha.go.kr/
http://211.57.113.1/jsp/vr/cybertour_main.jsp?codeid=01010602&eflag=E
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Korea-Gyeongju-Seokguram-12.jpg
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Korea-Gyeongju-Silla_Art_and_Science_Museum-Seokguram_model-03.jpg
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/cms/content_travelGoods/41/676641_images_4.jpg
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/cms/resource/54/156354_image2_1.jpg
http://media-cdn.tripadvisor.com/media/photo-s/01/40/37/89/gate-of-seokguram-grotto.jpg
http://www.sacred-destinations.com/south-korea/images/bulguksa/resized/path-from-seokguram-cc-martinroell.jpg
http://koreanhistory.info/Shilla.htm
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264260
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Seokguram
http://english.triptokorea.com/english/UserFiles/Image/daily%20tour/Gyeongju/Seokgurm%20Grotto2.jpg
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Korea-Gyeongju-Silla_Art_and_Science_Museum-Seokguram_model-02.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3109/2831368349_559a774cc7.jpg
http://stone.buddhism.org/eng/seokguram/
http://www.buddhism.org/board/read.cgi?board=WhatsNew&y_number=26

A Longer, Closer Look at Seokguram, Part 1

1938 picture of Seokguram - my favourite pic of the grotto

After reading So Jae-gu’s essay, “Stone: The Mirror of Our Soul”, I’d like to revisit Seokguram Grotto and pay closer attention to this remarkable structure. During my first visit to the place, I was more taken by the freshly-fallen snow as it was my first experience of winter. Moreover, I hadn’t done my homework as a tourist.

The shuttle bus stops here and your short walk to Seokguram begins here

Instead of reading up on the place beforehand, I had mistakenly thought Seokguram was a shrine built into a natural cave like many of the Buddhist shrines and statues carved out of the softer rocks in India but I now realise the cave itself is a man-made grotto made up of hundreds of granite stones. What’s even more impressive is that they were joined, not by mortar but by stone rivets. That’s almost like a wooden house built without using nails.

From this distance, Seokguram looks like a tumuli lurking behind a shrine

Taking the shuttle bus from Bulguksa may be a convenient way to get to Seokguram but I hope I can do it the hard and long way the next time. By walking the full four kilometres up the steep and winding path up Tohamsan, I’d be able to appreciate better those labourers who had to haul blocks of granite up 750 meters above sea level to erect a hermitage for the Buddhist devotees of the past. Moreover, Tohamsan was regarded as a holy mount so to rush up to Seokguram in fifteen minutes or so by bus seems a little unsporting or even sacriligious.

Follow in the footsteps of ancient pilgrims and skip the shuttle bus up Tohamsan

Some experts believe the tiny hermitage was specially built as a private chapel for the Shilla royalty while ordinary pilgrims prayed in Bulguksa. Some think Kim Dae-Seong who oversaw the building of Bulguksa, wanted to dedicate the larger temple to his parents of his reincarnated life while Seokguram was intended as a memorial to the parents of his previous life. A third theory suggests it was meant as a supernatural or spiritual bastion to ward off possible invasions from Japan by positioning Buddha to face the east. Apparently it’s possible to glimpse the East Sea ( Sea of Japan) from inside the grotto.

Chapel, memorial or national defence?

The year in which construction began is also debatable – either 742 or 751 A.D. but it was completed in 774. Seokguram was initially named Seokbulsa ( Stone Buddha Temple) and it’s not clear when it was given its present name. The royal chapel fell into hard times and was abandoned and forgotten by all save local devotees during the Joseon Dynasty (1392- 1910) as the Joseon kings favoured Confucian ethics. It was only in 1909 during the Japanese occupation of Korea that Seokguram was rediscovered when a Japanese postman took refuge from the rain in what seemed like a cave. Unfortunately for him, Koreans don’t care much to keep a record of his name so the humble Jap who stumbled upon one of the most important symbols of Korea remains nameless.

Cut-away model of the man-made grotto

Even more unfortunate for Seokguram was the timing of its rediscovery. The Japanese colonial government actually decided to take it apart to repair it between 1913 and 1915. In doing so, the original arrangement of stones which allowed the grotto to “breathe” was disturbed. The use of cement and iron to cover the whole structure led to leaks and erosion as the natural ventilation of the cave was compromised.

Doesn't that crack in the capstone look like the ...?

Worse still, hot steam was used to clean the moss off the granite surface. One writer aptly described the whole fiasco during the Japanese occupation as a case of “torture in the name of preservation”. The Japanese also did another great disservice to Seokguram by promoting it as a cave temple that was part of the Buddhist architectural heritage from India instead of the man-made grotto which it is.

Admire the immaculate paving on the floor

Only when proper studies of the structure of the grotto were made in the 1960s, the problems of high humidity and botched waterproofing could be resolved. Still, thorny issues remain unresolved – a wooden façade was added to the antechamber upset many for two reasons.

A necessary evil - to protect Buddha from tourists

The superstructure blocked off views of the sunrise, thus denying to future generations brilliant photo-opportunities and inspiration of enlightenment. Secondly, the passage of air into the grotto was cut off which again disrupted its natural ventilation. Another barrier- this time, a glass one, was put up between the Buddha and visitors. The glass wall was intended to protect Buddha from graffiti and vandals as well as to control the temperature within.

Study the models in the Shilla Science History Museum

to appreciate fully the achievement of the Shilla artisans

One other thing I’d like to do is to visit the Shilla Science History Museum in the Folk Craft Village of Gyeongju. Its cutaway models of Seokguram illustrate the ingenuity of its engineers and artisans and the beauty of its design. For more pics, click here but a word of warning: the English notes on this page are as tortuous as the early attempts to conserve Seokguram!

sources:
http://www.sacred-destinations.com/south-korea/images/seokguram/resized/buddha-wc-gfdl.jpg

http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/asis/wallpaper/0707/paper0707_03_1024.jpg
http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/AK/AK_EN_1_6_4_5.jsp
http://english.cha.go.kr/
http://211.57.113.1/jsp/vr/cybertour_main.jsp?codeid=01010602&eflag=E
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Korea-Gyeongju-Seokguram-12.jpg
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Korea-Gyeongju-Silla_Art_and_Science_Museum-Seokguram_model-03.jpg
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/cms/content_travelGoods/41/676641_images_4.jpg
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/cms/resource/54/156354_image2_1.jpg
http://media-cdn.tripadvisor.com/media/photo-s/01/40/37/89/gate-of-seokguram-grotto.jpg
http://www.sacred-destinations.com/south-korea/images/bulguksa/resized/path-from-seokguram-cc-martinroell.jpg
http://koreanhistory.info/Shilla.htm
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264260
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Seokguram
http://english.triptokorea.com/english/UserFiles/Image/daily%20tour/Gyeongju/Seokgurm%20Grotto2.jpg
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Korea-Gyeongju-Silla_Art_and_Science_Museum-Seokguram_model-02.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3109/2831368349_559a774cc7.jpg
http://stone.buddhism.org/eng/seokguram/
http://www.buddhism.org/board/read.cgi?board=WhatsNew&y_number=26

Asadal's Troublesome Twins, Bulguksa Part 5

Two of the many treasures of Gyeongju

The master craftsman, Asadal whose job it was to oversee the construction of two pagodas within Bulguksa, must have regarded them as his own children. Considering the time and personal sacrifices he must have made to realise these national treasures, I’d like to think of them as his twins.

The pagodas take on an ethereal beauty at night

Whether or not they were a labour of love or just a job he did to put the bap in his bowl, whether or not Asadal grew to hate or love even more the pagodas after the suicide of his wife, no-one will ever know. But what is clear is that his pagodas have survived over 1200 years to keep the memory of his name alive.

Asadal's unidentical twins in Bulguksa's main courtyard

The two pagodas stand side by side in the main courtyard which represents the “impure land” of Seokgamoni Buddha which, interestingly, has been made more prominent than another courtyard which stands for the “pure land” of Amitabha.

Lion on sentry duty in Dabotap

Apparently this was to acknowledge the greater nobility and compassion of Seokgamoni who chose to remain in the world of dust. It’s also unusual to find two pagodas on one temple site – due to an excess funds or virtue?

Shilla mastery of stone at its peak

These twin pagodas are both “outstanding examples of 8th century Unified Shilla architecture” and “skilfully balance the square, octagonal and circle in one design” but they’re not identical siblings. The first to be completed was National Treasure No. 20, Dabotap or the Pagoda of Many Treasures.

A hexagon on a circle above a square - Shilla stone masons play with geometry

It’s the more fanciful, decorative one that stands, 10.4 m tall, on a raised square with four staircases on each side. Each staircase has ten steps signifying ten great virtues ( paramitas). The lower four-sided levels become an octagonal roofed structure at the top. You can also check out its image on one face of the ten-won coin.

A great souvenir - Dabotap as a 3-D puzzle

In the 1920s, the Japanese took it apart and put it back together again – presumably looking for its many treasures but what they found remains a mystery.

The simple lines of Seokgatap are a striking contrast to Dabotap

Seokgatap or Sakyamuni Pagoda is a dramatic contrast to its sibling. Shorter at 8.2 m, its clean and unshowy outlines recall the wooden pagodas of China. Its three-storey design with eight stone lotus flowers at the top has been admired for its graceful appearance.

Who would've guessed this plain structure housed so many precious artefacts?

Restoration work during the 1960s revealed that this pagoda held a number of treasures such as a paper scroll sutra, printed between 706 and 751 A.D. and some gilt bronze boxes containing holy relics. For more on these treasures, check out this article from KBS.

While the ornateness of Dabotap reflects the complexity of the world, Seokgatap’s simplicity suggest a Yin-Yang balance of opposites. But others see them instead as “architectural manifestations of the Buddha’s simultaneous contemplation and detachment from the world”. Still sounds like Yin and Yang to me.

Click here for more of the Asadal legend.

source:

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/f9/Korea_bulguksa_temple-2005-08-23.jpg

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/b8/Bulguksa_3.jpg

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Korea-Gyeongju-Bulguksa-Dabotap_Pagoda-01.jpg

http://gratefulseoul.com/?cat=3

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/b8/Bulguksa_3.jpg

http://www.busannavi.jp/go/bbs/board.php?bo_table=gj_2&wr_id=16

http://www.mediathai.net/module/travel/travel_article_technic_detail.php?article_id=76

http://www.3d-puzzle.ru/zadmin_data/goods.image/149.jpg

http://dream.eng.uci.edu/isorc2006/images/seokgatap.gif

http://202.232.86.81/b_menu/hakusho/image/hpae200001/xb1040502.gif

http://www.prkorea.com/photo1/upfile/e1205c82b01df70df3ecf720e30241bf

Reconstructing Bulguksa, Part 4

Reconstructing Bulguksa was a tricky challenge - with most of its 80 buildings destroyed by fire and overrun by Mongol and Japanese invader and local robbers, much of the planning ( between 1969 and 1973) for rebuilding this historical temple depended on excavations as reference points. Historical literature was another vital source of information and comparisons with other buildings which belonged to the same period were made as well. There's also a tug-of-war between the desire to replicate the experience of the past and the need to preserve the relics for the future.

So here are three compromises made in the reconstruction of Bulguksa:

First, as Kim Bong-Gon, Director-General for the National Institute of Cultural Heritage pointed out, "Although the existing stone structues in Bulguksa belong to the Unified Shilla Period, ( structures like)  Museoljeon, Gwaneumjeon and the corridors were reconstructed in accordance with the style of the Joseon Dynasty".

A firm decision was made as well to limit the reconstruction to the bridge staircases in the facade and exclude the original pond that was under the bridge staircases.

Finally, to ensure that National Treasures No .22 and 23 remained in good condition, the bridge staircases have been cordoned off and tourists can only gain access to the main temple grounds by a side entrance.

Conscientious tourists who want to reduce their carbon footprint may console themselves by enjoying the reconstruction of Bulguksa with cyberview tours here. ( Scroll down after the jump till you see the pic below and click on the red arrows). Happy armchair travelling!

Sources:
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264261

http://jikimi.cha.go.kr/english/world_heritage_new/Bulguksa.jsp

http://211.57.113.1/jsp/vr/cybertour_main.jsp?codeid=01010501&eflag=E

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bulguksa

http://www.orientalarchitecture.com/koreasouth/gyeongju/bulguksa.php

http://theseoultimes.com/ST/?url=/ST/db/read.php?idx=1912

Tobogganing down Tumuli, Gyeongju Part 4

Mian-hamnida  to all the Shilla kings and queens buried in the Gyeongju tumuli but I couldn’t help myself. The first thing I thought when I saw the smooth mounds in the Daereung-won Tumuli Park was: “Wouldn’t it be fun to take a toboggan and slide down a tumulus covered with snow?”

Purists and die-hard patriots would probably bar me from entering the city again for my irreverence. But hey, I’ve read in the Lonely Planet that even Korean tourists have been traipsing up and down the slopes when the security guards weren’t looking.

Unlike most graveyards, the ancient tombs for the royalty and nobility of the Shilla Dynasty have an approachable air about them. Sanitized by the archeologists’ excavations and the manicured lawns, the Daereungwon is more like a languid stroll through a park than an exciting exploration of people’s final resting places.

Even when one enters the Heavenly Horse Tomb ( Cheonmachong) and peers through the glass for a close-up look at reproductions of the famous gold crown ( now in the museum), there are no shivers down one’s spine the way one would feel exploring the Roman catacombs or the dark cramped spaces within an Egyptian crypt. But then again such comparisons are unfair.

Just go with an open mind and you might enjoy learning a thing or two about the difference between a stone-lined chamber tomb and a tunnel-type tomb or discovering the origins of the names for some of the tumuli such as “Bamboo Soldier Tomb” ( Chukhyonnung) , “Tomb of the Deceased’s Shoes” ( Singnichong), and “Tomb of the Auspicious Phoenix” ( Seobongchong).

For more information on how to get there, admission charges and opening times, click here.

Source:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gyeongju_Historic_Areas
http://www.lifeinkorea.com/Travel2/kyongju/216
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264117&nearBy=accom&
http://theseoultimes.com/ST/?url=/ST/db/read.php?idx=2988
http://www.absoluteastronomy.com/topics/Heavenly_Horse_Tomb

Gyeongju Revisited, Part 1

On hindsight, I realise that I have done Gyeongju a great disservice. It was our  first visit to Korea so my travel companion and I unwisely planned a whirlwind tour of the country and allocated very little time to this city known as a “ museum without walls”. It does seem sacriligeous somehow to attempt to appreciate its 1000- year history in two measly days.

 So how much time should one spend in this ancient capital appointed by the Shilla kings? After going over the literature that I managed to collect while there, I think at least one week, if not a few months, should be devoted exclusively to this place because there’s really so much to see – from royal tombs to Buddhist relics to UNESCO World Heritage sites.

Of course, if you’re really strapped for time and you have 10,000 won to spare, there’s a private bus which departs twice daily from the Gyeongju Express Bus Terminal twice daily to the main attractions. Stops on the seven-hour long tour include Bulguksa Temple, the Folk Craft Village, Poseokjeong Pavilion, the Gyeongju National Museum, the Cheomseongdae Observatory and the Cheonmachong Tomb. ( tel. 054-743-6001)

A word of caution though - people assume from the claim that Gyeongju is an open-air museum that the whole place looks like some ancient city. The reality is that its many cultural treasures are scattered around the edges of the present urban centre. It's advisable to read up on the history of the Shilla Dynasty to appreciate more fully the sights.

source:
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=312887
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=312750