Not Much To Do In Buan Cine Theme Park

While the Buan Cine Theme Park is intended primarily as a movie studio for historic dramas and isn't meant as an amusement park like Universal Studios, it has also opened its doors to tourists, assuming there are many who'd want to check out the shooting locations for movies like "The King and The Clown" and "Hwangjinyi" ( not to be confused with the TV drama series starring Ha Ji-won).

I was one of the suckers who thought that the place was worth a look-see. The only good thing I dare say was that I burnt a few calories walking from Gyeokpo to find the Buan Cine Theme Park. It was a fine spring day and I thought I'd save bus or cab fare. I should've saved my time and visited the Monkey School instead ( no, not that either as I dislike seeing most animals perform silly tricks).

Reason I was disappointed? There wasn't anything going on. Just the reproductions of a Joseon dynasty palace, yangban's mansions, craftsmen's shops and farmers' quarters etc. standing there in the mid-day heat. I guess I was naively hoping against hope that I could see a movie or drama in the process of being shot. No such luck. A ghost-town would have more personality compared to the BCTP.   Ok to be fair to the place, perhaps I didn't go under the best of circumstances. Here are some suggestions on how to make the most of your visit there if you insist on going there.

1. Go in a group. This isn't the place for solo travellers. It only accentuates the empty solitude with only the video of "The King and the Clown" playing continuously for company. Better still, go with friends who've seen the movie umpteenth times and reenact your fav scenes from the movie.

2. Rent a costume ( take your pick of king, clown, eunuch or palace maidservant) and digicam yourself or each other in different sort of ridiculous poses all over the open-air studio.

3. Invite other tourists to watch your impromptu street performance and ask them to rate your acting or mime skills. ( Mask not obligatory but useful to mask your blushes if you're only capable of ham acting!)

4. You probably wouldn't be allowed on the high wire but you could draw an imaginary line in the sand and test your ability to tippy-toe across while pretending to be an old-time acrobat.

5. Try your hand at archery, horse-riding or simply strutting your stuff around the fake village while keeping your fingers crossed for any KBS talent-spotter who might just happen to be around. Who knows, this might just  get you your big break in Hallyuwood OR, better still, rent the DVD and stay indoors to salivate over the performances of Gam Woo Seong, Lee Jun Ki and Jeong Jin Yeong for the sixteenth time.

About other shooting locations:

MBC TV drama series, Queen Seondoek

sources:

http://www.korea.net/News/news/newsView.asp?serial_no=20071214022&part=108&SearchDay=

http://www.koreanwiz.org/at/tripC58.html
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=647808
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_King_and_the_Clown
http://www.asiatorrents.com/details.php?id=23d4dbc711feee785a1f15fb5f398d45d8bd5698
http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=260486
http://www.korea.net/kois/magazine/pictorialKoreaView.asp?Html_no=386
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/OO/OO_EN_13_1_2.jsp?cid=347386
http://www.knto.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264521&nearBy=accom&
http://www.wang-ui-namja.com/behind_philosophy.htm
http://english.tour2korea.com/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=309586

Uneasy on Naksan Beach, Naksan Part 5

Summer shots of Naksan Beach are rather scary. I can just imagine it - The massive crowds in and out of the water. Territorial disputes over space to spread one’s beach towel on the sand. Public humiliation of exposing one’s cellulite in skimpy summer shorts. The long queues to rent a beach umbrella or to buy an ice lolly. But when I find myself on Naksan Beach in autumn, the emptiness is also a little intimidating though of a different sort.

The winds are chilly with a hint of winter and the walk down the empty beach is a little discomfiting as one can’t hide in a crowd here in this season. I feel like a hermit crab without my shell as I’m about the only one on the beach, exposed to the eyes of the locals who must be wondering who this crazy tourist is to be wandering alone on the shoreline.

The ajummas in the sikdangs ( restaurants) who are usually kept busy serving raw fish ( saeng-seon hoe – pronounced “hwey”) are sitting around, chatting or watching TV drama serials. I’m hardly likely to venture into any of these eateries for these reasons 1.I’m not into “ raw squid, flatfish, sea cucumber, abalone, sea urchin or croaker” ( quoting from the Yangyang Travel Guide) 2. I’m on a shoestring budget 3. As a solo traveler, I’m not likely to order an expensive seafood meal usually served to groups (from at least 50,000 to 70,000 won, 2004 prices)

So what else is there to do in Naksan in this low season? I should’ve checked out the Hoe Centre at the base of the cliff where Uisang-dae is perched just to see how Koreans prepare their raw seafood dishes. If I had checked the Yangyang guidebook carefully, I would’ve also visited the Naksan Yellow Ochre Fire Kiln ( sauna) to try out its various facilities such as the natural jade room, the sauna with jade-pebbled heated floor and the herbal steam sauna. ( Bus No 9 goes along National Road No. 7 between Yangyang and Sokcho every 20 minutes , get off at Josan)

A note on getting to Naksan: Took a shuttle bus from Osaek Greenyard Hotel, in the southern part of Soraksan. After a short walk past shops selling a wide assortment of dried seafood, I found a bewildering array of minbaks and yeogwans just before the beach. Not too difficult finding a place to stay during autumn though I’m sure available rooms would be hard to come by in summer. Paid 20,000 won for a small room in a minbak ( October, 2004 prices)

sources:
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264622
http://eng.yangyang.go.kr/page/foreign/eng/index.jsp
http://www.korea.net/news/news/newsview.asp?serial_no=20080704010
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Korea_style_raw_fish.jpg

Rising From The Ashes, Naksan-sa Part 4

I visited Naksan-sa during my 2004 visit to Korea in autumn and then  in April, 2005, I was dismayed to hear that the temple had fallen victim to a forest fire. No thanks to dry and strong winds, it had spread and destroyed most of the temple buildings along with many important artefacts such as a 15th century bronze bell.

A sorry sight - Naksan-sa after the 2005 fire.

It wasn’t the first time the temple had been ravaged by the flames. Naksan-sa had been burnt down before when the Mongol invaders over-ran the country in the 13th century. Its reconstruction took place at different times during the 15th and 17th centuries under the Joseon kings. Again, during the Korean War of 1950-53, it was razed to the ground and rebuilt in late 1953. In its most recent reincarnation, Naksan-sa has been restored within four years after the 2005 disaster like the legendary phoenix rising from the ashes.

Reconstruction work on the temple flooring

It’s a remarkable story of resilience and community effort. In his speech at the completion ceremony on October 12, 2009, the abbot of Naksan-sa said: “I bow my head and humbly thank all the monks and nuns of the Jogye Order, Buddhist devotees, and Korean citizens for helping in the difficult four-year restoration process. We will do our best to continue in the restoration to return Naksansa Temple to the hearts of the Korean people. It is important to not only restore the buildings, but also the 1000-year cultural heritage and the spirit of the ancestors.”

Even the surrounding walls get a new lease on life

A local museum now houses a violin and cello which were built from wood that survived the fire on the temple grounds. Check out the flash presentation which is based on the story of the temple. Aside from the inspiring morality tale about endurance and fortitude, one wonders if measures are in place to protect such historic and religious buildings from similar fires. For another story of a temple which was also a fire victim, click here.

Reconstruction Project Completed by 2009!

Sources

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naksansa#2005_fire_and_reconstruction
http://www.buddhapia.com/buddhapi/eng/temple/korexp/html/bu11.html
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=312871
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=309343
http://english.triptokorea.com/english/viewtopic.php?t=5925
http://eng.koreatemple.net/travel/view_temple.asp?temple_id=32
http://www.koreanbuddhism.net/jokb/press/view.asp?article_seq=5865&page=1&search_key=&search_value=
http://www.knto.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264186&nearBy=site&
http://www.kimsch.net/flash/dream-en.swf
http://www.land.go.kr/gTra.do?tra=enudestination&cid=3204
http://german.visitkorea.or.kr/ger/SI/SI_GE_3_1_1_2.jsp?cid=335521

Danyang Rocks! - Part 2

Rock lovers will enjoy Danyang in Chungcheongbuk-do ( not to be confused with Damyang of Jeollanam-do)  for the following reasons:

1. Dodamsambong ( Three Peaks). This landmark, just north of Danyang, has been featured in many commercials and advertisements in Korea.

It’s smaller than expected and only romantic in the right circumstances – go early in the morning or late in the evening. It doesn’t seem so evocative in the harsh glare of daylight.

2. Seongmun ( Stone Gate) is 200 meters away from Dodamsambong and has been dubbed presumably by the Koreans themselves “ the most splendid stone gate in Asia”.

source: http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3592/3621139721_f4a20683cc.jpg

3. Prehistoric artifacts which were excavated in the region are on display in Suyanggae Prehistoric Remains Hall in the centre of Danyang town.

source: http://www.emuseum.go.kr/eng/museum/museum_04_31.jsp

4. Sainam Rock is less accessible so it’s best to hop into a cab and head south of Danyang to see its ancient pines and pretty vertical profile.

source: http://static.panoramio.com/photos/original/17059889.jpg

5. South of Sainam Rock is Doraksan ( 964 m). Another handsome pine perched near the peak affords some dramatic photo opportunities.

source: http://www.land.go.kr/eng/images/tra/3301/223036_image2_1.jpg

6. Still further south is Mount Hwangjeong ( 959 m) which is home to vertical rock formations which are 20 -30 m high and form a splendid stone screen.

source: http://eng.gbmg.go.kr/image/gallery/thumb/120_360_300.jpg

7. Danyang has three natural monuments – beside Gosu Cave, you can also give your imagination a workout by giving your own names to the stalactites and stalagmites in Ondal , Cheondong and Nodong Caves.

source:
http://www.land.go.kr/gTra.do?tra=enudestination&cid=3301
http://cache.virtualtourist.com/4262045-Namhan_River_and_bridge_at_Danyang_South_Korea-Tanyang.jpg

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Korea-Danyang-Gosu_Cave_3184-07.JPG
http://www.travelblog.org/Asia/South-Korea/Seoul/blog-118713.html
http://images.travelpod.com/users/quebekwalouis/2.1221235320.gosu-donggulx-danyang.jpg

Gamsa- Hamnida to Some Gentlefolk of Gyeongju

To Certain Gentlefolk of Gyeongju,

First of all, thank you to our hosts in Sarangchae ( 054-773 4868) for maintaining a traditional-style house and renting out rooms for tourists.

My friend and I had flown into Ulsan from Jeju, just missed the shuttle bus by a minute or so (a warning to fellow travellers not to be tardy) and so arrived in Gyeongju late in the evening. So it was a relief to plonk ourselves into the cosy beds in your guesthouse and bask in the charming atmosphere of a bygone time.

At the same time, you thoughtfully provided your guests with modern amenities such as free Internet access and a kitchen in which we could fix ourselves a quick supper of instant noodles.

Unfortunately traditional style living dictates that the bathroom and toilet facilities are located away from the sleeping quarters and we weren’t prepared to continue to trudge the distance in the chilly early winter evening. So in the end, I’m sorry to admit that we decided to change to another place with zero physical charm but all the practical convenience of an attached bathroom.

But now it’s my turn to say Mian-hamnida to Mr Kwon Young-joung, the friendly proprietor of Hanjin-jang Yeogwan (tel 771 4096). The plainness and unmemorable appearance of his yeogwan is offset by the warm reception and farewell we got at his place – Gansa-hamnida to you, Mr Kwon, for the lovely chopstick tokens you presented us when we said goodbye to you. Sorry we missed your home-made entertainment ( do you really have performing scorpions?) but thank you for placing the reproduction of the Emile Bell at your reception counter. If I hadn’t had a chance to fall in love with its sound, I wouldn’t have bought my own replica at the Bulguksa souvenir shop.


Finally, CHONG-MAL GAMSA-HAMNIDA to a kind anonymous ajumma who helped us when we got lost somewhere on the streets of Gyeongju city. We stopped you, a complete stranger, simply hoping that you would point out the right direction to take to get back to our yeogwan. Instead you signalled that we should follow you into your car. We were completely floored when you actually drove us back right to the doorstep of Hanjin-jang. Maybe your kindness was prompted by the fact that you reckoned it was less convenient to tell us where to go ( given our very scanty Korean and your limited English) or perhaps it was out of national pride that Koreans take good care of foreign visitors. I’d like to think it was one of the many spontaneous acts of hospitality that I’ve experienced with your fellow citizens as you were so matter-of-fact about the whole matter.

Yours gratefully,
A non-Korean ajumma

sources:
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=398684&nearBy=site
http://www.flickr.com/photos/globalismpictures/1534962452/

Tobogganing down Tumuli, Gyeongju Part 4

Mian-hamnida  to all the Shilla kings and queens buried in the Gyeongju tumuli but I couldn’t help myself. The first thing I thought when I saw the smooth mounds in the Daereung-won Tumuli Park was: “Wouldn’t it be fun to take a toboggan and slide down a tumulus covered with snow?”

Purists and die-hard patriots would probably bar me from entering the city again for my irreverence. But hey, I’ve read in the Lonely Planet that even Korean tourists have been traipsing up and down the slopes when the security guards weren’t looking.

Unlike most graveyards, the ancient tombs for the royalty and nobility of the Shilla Dynasty have an approachable air about them. Sanitized by the archeologists’ excavations and the manicured lawns, the Daereungwon is more like a languid stroll through a park than an exciting exploration of people’s final resting places.

Even when one enters the Heavenly Horse Tomb ( Cheonmachong) and peers through the glass for a close-up look at reproductions of the famous gold crown ( now in the museum), there are no shivers down one’s spine the way one would feel exploring the Roman catacombs or the dark cramped spaces within an Egyptian crypt. But then again such comparisons are unfair.

Just go with an open mind and you might enjoy learning a thing or two about the difference between a stone-lined chamber tomb and a tunnel-type tomb or discovering the origins of the names for some of the tumuli such as “Bamboo Soldier Tomb” ( Chukhyonnung) , “Tomb of the Deceased’s Shoes” ( Singnichong), and “Tomb of the Auspicious Phoenix” ( Seobongchong).

For more information on how to get there, admission charges and opening times, click here.

Source:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gyeongju_Historic_Areas
http://www.lifeinkorea.com/Travel2/kyongju/216
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264117&nearBy=accom&
http://theseoultimes.com/ST/?url=/ST/db/read.php?idx=2988
http://www.absoluteastronomy.com/topics/Heavenly_Horse_Tomb

Gyeongju Revisited, Part 1

On hindsight, I realise that I have done Gyeongju a great disservice. It was our  first visit to Korea so my travel companion and I unwisely planned a whirlwind tour of the country and allocated very little time to this city known as a “ museum without walls”. It does seem sacriligeous somehow to attempt to appreciate its 1000- year history in two measly days.

 So how much time should one spend in this ancient capital appointed by the Shilla kings? After going over the literature that I managed to collect while there, I think at least one week, if not a few months, should be devoted exclusively to this place because there’s really so much to see – from royal tombs to Buddhist relics to UNESCO World Heritage sites.

Of course, if you’re really strapped for time and you have 10,000 won to spare, there’s a private bus which departs twice daily from the Gyeongju Express Bus Terminal twice daily to the main attractions. Stops on the seven-hour long tour include Bulguksa Temple, the Folk Craft Village, Poseokjeong Pavilion, the Gyeongju National Museum, the Cheomseongdae Observatory and the Cheonmachong Tomb. ( tel. 054-743-6001)

A word of caution though - people assume from the claim that Gyeongju is an open-air museum that the whole place looks like some ancient city. The reality is that its many cultural treasures are scattered around the edges of the present urban centre. It's advisable to read up on the history of the Shilla Dynasty to appreciate more fully the sights.

source:
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=312887
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=312750

Whirlwind Tour of Damyang in a Police Car, Part 2

Here's a brief run-down of my 2005 tour of  Damyang, courtesy of the local police. See previous posting.

Daenamugol Bamboo Park

This place is the location for a number of TV drama series like Damo but I didn’t know that when I visited this place in 2005. But one doesn’t really need to do a Hallyu pilgrimage to do justice to this place. Just wear comfortable walking shoes and read up beforehand about the different types of bamboo to appreciate this place more fully. It’s a balm to the senses to walk quietly along the narrow paths flanked by tall and slender bamboo. Have to keep reminding myself that they’re not trees but grasses that share similar genetic make-up with rice and wheat.

Songhac Experience Museum

Admission charges in 2005: Adults -2500 won & children - 1500 won
E-mail: songhac7179@naver.com

This small museum has a fairly engaging collection of artefacts - such as furniture, clothing, ceramics, kitchen and farming utensils and even turn of the century schoolbooks - that give the visitor an idea of what life was like for ordinary Koreans in times past. Displays are on two floors and there are some hands-on activities like brass rubbings and collecting imprints of seals.

Unfortunately, there weren’t any explanations in English so I had to use my imagination a fair bit to figure out what’s what. There were also larger exhibits around and on a small pond outside the main building but I didn’t have time to look around further.

Lake Damyang
If you’re lucky to be in a car or if you can rent one, the winding road alongside this pretty lake makes a great drive. If you have more time, you can also check out the Chuwol or Juwol Tourist Site, the camping grounds on Gamagol, and the Geumseong Fortress Wall.

Metasequoia Road
Click here for my earlier posting on this attraction.

Credit: Kiwistyle, dcinside

sources:www.damyang.go.kr
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=706556
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/FU/FU_EN_15.jsp?cid=317001

Who's Among the Lions?

What I Wished I Knew About Hwaeomsa Before I Went There, Part 4

If you walk behind Gakhwangjeon Hall and climb up 108 steps to reach the Terrace of Filial Piety, you’ll find a clearing with camellia trees and National Treasure No 35. The Four Lions Three-Storey Stone Pagoda is also the oldest relic in Hwaeomsa (temple), supposedly erected in the 8th century by Yon-gi.

This stone sculpture is noteworthy for a few reasons. Each face of the lower base has relief carvings of heavenly musicians on the lute, harp or mouth organ and dancers. Above them stand four lions on stone lotuses. It was the first time lions were used as part of the design. These symbolise the power of Buddha and if you look carefully at the expressions of each creature, you may discover that the mouths get wider and wider as you walk clockwise around the pagoda.

Right in the centre, among the lions, there’s a sculpture of a human figure – but its identity remains obscure. Is it a statue of a priest or a nun or even the mother of Yon-gi, the founder of the temple?

A stone lantern opposite this pagoda has another stone figure with one knee bent as if making an offering ( a cup of tea, perhaps) or is it supposed to represent Yongi honouring his mother?

Either way, it’s a peaceful spot to soak in the atmosphere, enjoy a little picnic, reflect on filial piety or just be thankful for all the great moms out there.


Sources:
http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/cms/resource/01/707401_image2_1.jpg

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Korea-Gurye-Hwaeomsa_5009-06.JPG
http://english.gurye.go.kr/english/jirisan/valleys.html
http://media.graniteschools.org/Curriculum/korea/hwaomsa.htmh
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Pyzf11LwE6fMD4R6o3boqQ
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/User:Waygugin/Sandbox
http://san-shin.net/Jiri-Hwaeom-1.html
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=822435

Dear Bloggers in Korea, Can I Get Some Foliage Reports?

Is global warming quickening the extinction of Maple Korea?  Am confused and worried.

Credit: Yonhap News

The glorious picture of autumn  above was featured on the 27th October this year. Then on the 2nd November, KBS features the scene below. Both shots were taken in Gangwondo.

Credit: Yonhap News

On November 2, KBS reported that the first cold wave alert was issued for certain parts of the country. It looked as if an early winter has descended on Korea. The following day, I read this:
"The Korea Meteorological Administration (KMA) forecasts warmer weather than years past, with mild temperatures continuing through early December."

What gives? Are autumns in Korea getting shorter and shorter?  A friend who's in Japan told me that the leaves are just turning brown before they drop off while in other places, trees are already bare. As a tourist from a non-temperate country and who loves going to see the autumn foliage in Korea's  many national parks, the prospect is ALARMING.

Would really appreciate it if any blogger who lives in Korea can let me know if the maple foliage is still enjoying a fairly long shelf-life.

Climbing, Culture and Cuisine - Jirisan, Part 1

No visit to Korea is complete until you’ve visited the first, the oldest ( designated as a national park in Dec, 29, 1967) and the biggest national park in South Korea. The enormity of Jirisan National Park is apparent when you study the maps and realise that three provinces, Jeollanam-do, Jeollabuk-do and Gyeongsangnam-do, share this enormous mountain which has at least eight peaks over 1000 meters.

Seasoned climbers like to do the ridge course which may include reaching peaks in the west like Nogodan ( 1507 m) and going along the ridge eastwards all the way to Cheonwangbong ( 1915. 4 m), the second-highest peak in ROK, after Hallasan in Jeju. You need at least three or four days to complete this course at a leisurely pace though theoretically it can be done within 24 hours if you don’t stop to pee, eat or take photos. Others with less ambition, stamina and time such as yours truly can be content to amble along the foothills to admire the many beautiful valleys, waterfalls, temples and hermitages that dot the area. There are numerous trails for day-trips and the Lonely Planet recommends getting the Jirisan National Park map produced by the National Parks if you plan on doing a few of these hikes.

Jirisan is also significant for all the ancient religions practised in the country. Those who still follow shamanistic rites hold sacrificial rites here. Taoists believe that Jirisan is home to its great immortals while Buddhists still make pilgrimages to visit places believed to be occupied by bodhisattvas. Besides temples and hermitages of historic and cultural importance, there are also villages to explore such as Chonghakdong which maintains Confucian traditions; Shimwon, dubbed to my amusement, “First Village Under the Sky” and Sangwi which celebrates with a festival in spring the blooming of golden Japanese dogwood or ssansuyu ( Cornusofficinalis).

Last but not least, Jirisan has a reputation of having one of the cleanest environments in the country so the quality of the food here is said to be very good. You can sample the sweet fish which thrive in the unpolluted waters of the Sumjingang, for instance. Or if you fancy indulging like a Joseon emperor but still have to eat healthily, try the Hanjeongsik ( traditional banquet meal) available in many restaurants here as many local herbs from the hillsides are used. Local pork and crab dishes are also well-known here.

Source:http://jiri.knps.or.kr/eng/
http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/cms/resource/01/707401_image2_1.jpg
http://english.gurye.go.kr/english/jirisan/valleys.html
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=822435
http://jiri.knps.or.kr/eng/intro/guidence.html
http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/spa/TR/TR_SP_3_3.jsp?cid=310643