We Interrupt Normal Postings for Some Autumn Leaves

HAPPY AUTUMN, EVERYONE!

Sources:

from my collection of maple leaves picked up from the grounds of various national parks in Korea

Thank you note to a Gurye Bus Driver

To A Bus-Driver I Met on the Way to Gurye,
I was on your bus, making my way from Suncheon to Hwaeomsa in the autumn of 2005. Can’t remember how we started chatting ( as far as THAT was possible, given my very limited Korean). Still, I somehow figured out you were suggesting that I go to the Piagol Valley first. You showed me exactly which bus to take when we reached the Gurye Bus Terminal and you even arranged for my bag to be kept safely at a sikdang (eatery) within the station while I went off in pursuit of maple leaves the colour of blood.

Gamsa-hamnida once again, Mr Bus Driver. I hadn’t even asked you for anything yet you offered guidance so spontaneously that it puts me to shame. I’m not sure that I would have gone out of my way to help a stranger in similar fashion. That’s why I like your country so much – I’ve met so many people like you who are so hospitable and helpful that it’s given me a little more faith in people. I’m not sure if it was national pride or professionalism or even a mere whim that prompted you to offer help but I’m still grateful. Every time I despair after reading about another suicide bombing or corruption scandal, I remind myself there are everyday heroes like you who do your job with a smile and who extend a friendly hand to strangers so naturally. Thank you for THAT!

Thanks as well for the recommendation to visit Piagol. The funny thing is I was so excited about your idea and so bowled over by your chivalrous gesture that I forgot to change from my oxfords to sneakers. So unfortunately when I got to Piagol, I wasn’t able to walk as far as I would’ve liked. Still, I had a great day there because if I hadn't been so slow, I probably wouldn't have met other great gentlemen who helped me as well. But that's a story for tomorrow.

Sincerely,
Ajumma

source:
http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/art/2009/10/203_11291.html
http://chinese.visitkorea.or.kr/chs/SI/SI_CHG_2_11.jsp?cid=806545
http://efestival.yonhapnews.co.kr/efestival/v/index.jsp?



 

Getting There, Getting Around, Putting Up & Eating Out in Jirisan

Most people enter Jirisan by way of Gurye as it’s well-connected by road and rail and has a number of yeogwans and small motels. You could take a bus from the Seoul Nambu Station directly but it’s a 4 ½ hour ride. Alternatively, you could catch a bus from Busan, Gwangju, Jeonju or Suncheon.

 I reached Gurye the short and fast way by Suncheon ( less than one hour by road). From the bus terminal in Gurye, you can hop onto local buses headed for Piagol Valley, Hwaoemsa, Hadong, Ssanggyesa for example. For more information on buses, click here or here.

Visitors can choose to make Gurye their base for exploring different trails in Jirisan – there are a number of places to stay that cater to different budgets. I preferred to stay out of town – there are usually rooms available in minbaks or yeogwans before the start of hiking trails or where the main temples are situated. If you’re a serious climber, make reservations ahead of time for a sleeping bunk in one of its mountain shelters or a spot to pitch your tent on the camping sites. If you want to pamper yourself, check out the hot springs laden with germanium at Spa Land ( Jirisan Eun-cheon) where you can watch the snowflakes fall while soaking in an open-air hot spring during winter.

In 2005, I paid 20,000 won to stay in a simple yeogwan in the tourist village about one kilometer outside Hwaeomsa. It had two plus points - great views especially in the evening and a little kitchen where I could cook instant noodles for an early breakfast before the sikdangs opened. Its drawbacks? Had to trek to a long corridor to the back of the two-storey building to get to my room The water in the bathroom was tepid so I had to boil water and lug potful after potful of hot water to pour into my bath basin. Followed the recommendation of the Lonely Planet and went to the Ttukbaegi Sikdang nearby. True, it had “generous and tasty side dishes” but alas, no free bindaettok ( pancake).

When I visited Korea in the spirng of 2007, the tourist village outside Ssanggyesa was packed with local tourists who were out in full force to see the cherry blossoms so I had to fork out 30,000 won for a small room above a convenience store. The enterprising family ran both yeogwan and shop. There were a number of restaurants but I preferred to pack a picnic lunch of gimbap , fruits and chocolate bars to savour after a few solid hours of walking.

sources:

http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=617752
http://jiri.knps.or.kr/Jirisan_eng/trans/transport.html
http://www.temf.co.kr/jirisan/eng/company/comLocation.asp
http://tour.hadong.go.kr/english/main.htm

A Park for all Seasons – Introduction to Jirisan National Park

One can keep revisiting Jirisan and yet not go back to the same spots as there are so many places to explore during the different seasons.

In the spring of 2007, I was fortunate enough to be stuck in a traffic jam from Hadong to Ssanggyesa in the south-eastern corner of Jirisan. The 6 km road lined with cherry trees is a wonder to behold during spring. If you’re really into spring flowers, you can also check out Sangwi Village, a.k.a. Ssansuyu Village which is full of bushes with tiny yellow flowers. I was content to do a long ( by my very humble standards) walk in one tiny corner of Jirisan when I follow a trail past Ssanggyesa, Hadaong to find the Bulilpokpo ( Falls).

However, if you enjoy waterfalls, it’s better to go in summer when there’s more rainfall and more action going on in rivers and falls. The Surak waterfall, 6 km from the hot spring resort, is at its best during the hot season and if you go there, let me know if there’s any truth to the claim in the brochure that its water is like “silver powder from the skies”. Summertime’s great as well for those who enjoy fishing and white-water rafting on the Sumjingang.

Two years before, my original plan to go directly from Suncheon to Hwaeomsa via Gurye was altered slightly at the suggestion of a friendly bus-driver to do a day-tour of Piagol Valley. I’d almost forgotten the recommendation I’d read earlier in one KNTO travel guide: “The twelve kilometers of Baemsagol Valley are famous for the autumnal leaves contrasting with deep blue ponds, and that of Piagol Valley is said to be as red as blood.” How could I resist such a promise of Gothic proportions?

Although Jirisan isn’t the place for skiing or to relive one’s Winter Sonata fantasies ( you can do both at Yongpyong Resort), it still gets some snow. So, if you like hiking with the crisp crunch of freshly fallen snow beneath your feet, you can try some of the trails in Jirisan National Park which may still be open during winter. Check with the local National Parks office.

One fantasy of mine is to live here for one year to check out the top ten scenic spots ( as voted by the Jirisan Mountains Alpine Association). They are, arranged here, according to what I’d like to see for each season:

1. The royal azaleas at Seseok in spring

2. The view of the sunrise from the peak of Cheonwangbong

3. The sea of clouds from Nogodan – for its azaleas in spring, day lilies in summer, snow-capped trees in winter

4. The clear stream of Sumjin – also in spring or summer

5. Bulil waterfalls – probably best seen in summer when the rains are heaviest and the falls most dramatic

6. The Chilsun or Chilseon Valley – in summer

7. The red maples of Jhikjoen in autumn

8. The full moon seen from Byukso
9. The Banya sunset

10. Yeonha fairyland


Source:
1. http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264283
2. http://jiri.knps.or.kr/eng/

Climbing, Culture and Cuisine - Jirisan, Part 1

No visit to Korea is complete until you’ve visited the first, the oldest ( designated as a national park in Dec, 29, 1967) and the biggest national park in South Korea. The enormity of Jirisan National Park is apparent when you study the maps and realise that three provinces, Jeollanam-do, Jeollabuk-do and Gyeongsangnam-do, share this enormous mountain which has at least eight peaks over 1000 meters.

Seasoned climbers like to do the ridge course which may include reaching peaks in the west like Nogodan ( 1507 m) and going along the ridge eastwards all the way to Cheonwangbong ( 1915. 4 m), the second-highest peak in ROK, after Hallasan in Jeju. You need at least three or four days to complete this course at a leisurely pace though theoretically it can be done within 24 hours if you don’t stop to pee, eat or take photos. Others with less ambition, stamina and time such as yours truly can be content to amble along the foothills to admire the many beautiful valleys, waterfalls, temples and hermitages that dot the area. There are numerous trails for day-trips and the Lonely Planet recommends getting the Jirisan National Park map produced by the National Parks if you plan on doing a few of these hikes.

Jirisan is also significant for all the ancient religions practised in the country. Those who still follow shamanistic rites hold sacrificial rites here. Taoists believe that Jirisan is home to its great immortals while Buddhists still make pilgrimages to visit places believed to be occupied by bodhisattvas. Besides temples and hermitages of historic and cultural importance, there are also villages to explore such as Chonghakdong which maintains Confucian traditions; Shimwon, dubbed to my amusement, “First Village Under the Sky” and Sangwi which celebrates with a festival in spring the blooming of golden Japanese dogwood or ssansuyu ( Cornusofficinalis).

Last but not least, Jirisan has a reputation of having one of the cleanest environments in the country so the quality of the food here is said to be very good. You can sample the sweet fish which thrive in the unpolluted waters of the Sumjingang, for instance. Or if you fancy indulging like a Joseon emperor but still have to eat healthily, try the Hanjeongsik ( traditional banquet meal) available in many restaurants here as many local herbs from the hillsides are used. Local pork and crab dishes are also well-known here.

Source:http://jiri.knps.or.kr/eng/
http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/cms/resource/01/707401_image2_1.jpg
http://english.gurye.go.kr/english/jirisan/valleys.html
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=822435
http://jiri.knps.or.kr/eng/intro/guidence.html
http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/spa/TR/TR_SP_3_3.jsp?cid=310643

The Meeting With Lee Min-ho That Wasn't

Scores of Lee Min-ho fans who waited for hours at Plaza Singapura on last Saturday evening for a glimpse of ETUDE's new poster boy must have been crushed, literally and metaphorically, when organisers of the meet the star event decided to cancel for security reasons. Has ETUDE bitten off more than it can chew by hiring the hugely popular actor of Boys Over Flowers fame?  Those involved in arranging the event did not anticipate such a large turn-out in Orchard Road. Signs of the backlash may be read in various forums dedicated to Lee - a number of disappointed fans who bought a lot of ETUDE merchandise in the hope of getting him to autograph his poster must be feeling very sore, to say the least. What kind of impact would it have on the long-term sales and image of ETUDE?

Fans on the other side of the Causeway who had heard about the cancellation in Singapore could breathe a sigh of relief that a similar event in a much smaller venue in Sungai Wang Plaza wasn't axed as well.

For all those who want to see much ado about Min-ho in Singapore, click here.

Source:
http://www.allkpop.com/index.php/full_story/lee_minhos_hectic_day_in_singapore/

How Many Types of Kimchi Are There?

The three-day “Kimchi Love Festival 2009” has opened at Gyeonghui Palace and the Seoul Museum of History.  Didn't realise that there are at least 192 different kinds of kimchi; at least that's the number on display at the Festival. Wonder how this one managed to avoid getting cancelled when others have been axed because of the H1N1 scare.

It'll be interesting to see how the Koreans can make kimchi part of global cuisine. When it comes to food, I'm not sure if people like certain things because they think it's good for their health, their complexion or prevent them from contracting avian flu and so on.  It may not be love at first bite or smell for many non-Koreans.

Indeed, my travel companion and I still have vivid memories of the strong smell of left-over kimchi emanating from one ajumma's kitchen of one yeogwan while we were standing at the door, waiting to get some hot water. The odour was particularly pronounced that winter's day and my friend beat a hasty retreat to our room, leaving me to wait for the water with the heavy smell of pickled anchovies in the cold air.

But I've come to love kimchi especially when it's in the form of kimchi tchigae (stew). It's also great as the main ingredient as fried rice and surprise! Left-over kimchi with beancurd and chicken cubes is OK too with cooked oats. One of the most delicious dishes with kimchi I enjoyed was when I spent the night on the floor of the living quarters with the ajumma who takes care of the temple at Mai-san. It was a dish of simple stir-fried chopped-up kimchi  with a pinch of sugar and ground dried anchovies. Heaven.

Excuse me while I go to the supermarket. I hear the kimchi calling my name.

source:
http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/news/news_Dm_detail.htm?No=67587
http://www.trifood.com/kimchichigae.html

No. 11 One More Thing to Do At Songgwangsa

Forgot one important item on My List of Things to Do At Songgwangsa.
If you're ambitious, have sturdy legs and time to spare, here's another thing you can do ( which I'd like to do as well one day before my knees give way!): Walk from Songgwangsa to Seonamsa. It's about 5 hours, has great views and is apparently a rewarding journey.

source:
http://www.korea.net/News/News/NewsView.asp?serial_no=20081212001

Lee Min-ho is ETUDE's Poster Boy - Is That Brilliant Marketing or What?

Relevance kow-tows to raging hormones or die-hard romantics.  That seems to be the strategy adopted by Amore Company which sells ETUDE cosmetics.It's not enough that ETUDE outlets are designed to look like doll-houses, and the packaging of their products to be all pretty in pink. Now ETUDE is playing fairy godmother to all the would-be Cinderellas out there by providing a Prince Charming ( otherwise known as Lee Min-ho of Boys Over Flowers fame) to promote its products  intended for the female market.

So this weekend, ETUDE  will whisk  Prince Charming  from Taiwan to Singapore to Malaysia in a whirlwind visit to generate more excitement over ETUDE's BB Creams etc.  Of course, this enterprising godmother expects all the Cinderellas to prove they're worthy of their Prince's attention ( or signature, at least) by purchasing a certain amount of cosmetics or skin-care products to qualify for a poster of prince with house kitty so that they can queue for goodness-knows how long to be close up and personal ( ?) for one magical moment with HRH.

Unsmitten shoppers who are thinking of heading to ETUDE shops in S'pore & Malaysia, be forewarned. It's going to get really hot and crowded on the 24th ( Spore) and 25th ( at Sungai Wang Plaza, at 5 pm in  Malaysia, according to what I've seen on the Net, can't confirm this, sorry!)

Good luck to you all ( Lee Min-ho, included). Wait a minute... why am I wishing him? He's paid $$$ to play poster boy for ETUDE.  Let's just hope he'll have the stamina and patience to be professional enough to reward each of his ardent fans with a princely nod, wave and smile.

source:
http://www.dramabeans.com/2009/03/etude-houses-new-face-lee-min-ho/

Open Letter to the Mayor of Suncheon- A Layman's Complaint

Dear Sir,

I came across your website on Suncheon Bay while doing some research for my blog. In some ways it helped me a great deal. However, may I be so bold as to make one suggestion?

First, let me quote an example from your website:
"Passage birds are the measures of productivity of swamp. For example, numerius madagascariensis loses half the weight during flying 4000~ 5000km non-stop from Austrailia."

It sounds like you employed a zoologist to write instead of getting the naturalists to pass on the facts to professional advertising people who could make the text more appealing and easier to understand. How many people know what "numerius madagascariensis" means? Why send me back to Google to figure out that it refers to...., errr, excuse me while I do this...ah, it asks me if I mean "numeNius madagascariensis" and then I learn that you're talking about the eastern curlew. Don't know if there's a western counterpart but at least I've heard of curlews.

It couldn't possible hurt your cause if you included the plain English names or better still, place the Latin names in parenthesis next to the common labels. Surely "mudskipper" sounds more friendly and interesting than "boleophthalmus pectinirostris"?

Wouldn't more visitors be drawn to Suncheon Bay if you said a number of hooded cranes and black-faced spoonbills stop over there instead of Grus Monacha and Platalea leucorodia?

Thanks for the Latin lesson but no thanks. I'd rather learn Korean. Sorry to sound like an ingrate but I'm tired and grumpy from having to spend so much time figuring out what's what.

Sincerely,
ajumma


Source:
http://www.birdsinbackyards.net/bird/237

This Bay Deserves A Day – Suncheon, Part 8

Suncheon Bay, a.k.a. the Reed Kingdom of Korea is our last stop on the Suncheon City Tour Bus. It’s a great way to end the day tour as we’ve visited so far man-made sites, from prehistoric dolmens to temples to folk villages. But now we’ve moved from the slopes of Jogyesan Provincial Park right down south to the coast to explore the wetlands and reed fields of Suncheon Bay which faces the South Sea.

It’s great to be out in the vast expanse with a hint of salt in the breeze but I’m a little paranoid in 2005. The papers have been full of reports of avian or bird flu and I’m stupidly nervous about any innocent encounter with migratory birds. ( Visitors to Korea in 2009 concerned about H1N1 –take heart!)

So it’s mildly reassuring to see that visitors have to step into a shallow trough of disinfectant after we finish our tour of the boardwalk built over the tidal flats.

Some people opt to visit the Eco-museum but I’m not in the mood and don’t expect the exhibits to have English explanatory boards. So I just stroll outdoors and linger on the bridge to look down on a cruise boat heading out to sea.

But on looking back, I dare say that Suncheon Bay deserves a full day. If you like the great outdoors, I recommend that you take the public bus from Suncheon to spend a leisurely day here with a picnic basket, a good wind-cheater and a pair of binoculars.

Start very early as “the thick early morning fog in late fall also creates a memorable view of the bay”. Linger till dusk as this place has been rated by Korean photographers as one of the top ten spots for great sunset photography.

In terms of flora and fauna, this place has more than just reeds, mudskippers and fiddler crabs. This place enjoys mild temperatures in winter, relatively unpolluted waters and extensive sandbars which emerged after the last Ice Age from silt deposits of the rivers which empty out into the sea. So it’s home to 116 species of plants, 158 bird species and an assortment of fish and invertebrates.

 Count yourself lucky if you can spot a heron, spoonbill or egret as the tall reeds provide pretty good hiding places for the birds.

Consider a sighting of local mammals like the otter, weasel or raccoon, manna from heaven. Much easier to spot two-legged mammals sporting sunglasses and digicams, particularly during the annual Reeds Festival, celebrated in early November ( provided the authorities don't cancel because of the H1N1 scare.)
But then again, if there are fewer humans around, you're more likely to spot the famed hooded cranes.

Practical info:
At the Dong Seoul Bus Terminal, take a bus for Suncheon (21,700 won / 08:10~17:40) Get off at Suncheon Intercity Bus Terminal ; Take bus No. 66 or 67 to the venue (It takes about 30 minutes. / Bus every 15 to 20 minutes)
 Sources
http://www.suncheonbay.go.kr/english/html/visit/reeds.jsp
http://www.panoramio.com/photo/10322093
http://kr.blog.yahoo.com/innisfree77/8630.html?p=5&t=2
http://www.korseby.net/outer/flora/rosopsida/asteraceae/index.html
http://www.animalpicturesarchive.com/view.php?did=2460&lang=kr&tid=5
http://www.animalpicturesarchive.com/view.php?did=8151&tid=1

Ten Things to Do at Songgwangsa, Suncheon Part 7

1. Stroll around the temple grounds at Songgwangsa

2.Stroll across  or pause on pavilion bridges

3. Marvel at how they did without blenders and microwave ovens

4. Admire the carpentry skills of craftsmen of the past

5. Meditate on the meaning of Zen murals

6. Listen out for the drumming ceremonies at dawn or dusk

7. Partake of some green tea in the tea shop

8. Make a pit stop at the temple restroom

9. Delight in the beauty of the maples on the temple grounds in autumn

10. Wait for the first snowflakes to fall on Songgwangsa

Sources:

http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=76273

http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=31293
http://songgwangsa.org/english/left01_01.htm
http://www.lifeinkorea.com/Travel/scholla/songgwang2.htm
http://www.orientalarchitecture.com/koreasouth/ruraljeonnam/songgwangsa_gallery.php?p=songgwangsa01.jpg

Play “I Spy” At Songgwangsa - Suncheon, Part 6

To be honest,don’t remember much of Songgwangsa, one of the oldest Zen temples in South Korea. Not that it wasn’t a memorable and impressive place but I was distracted in part by the company of a very cute Korean toddler and his friendly mom who became my companions for the day when I joined the Suncheon City Tour. Dong Ok’s mother and I were playing “human swing” with the three-year-old boy for a fair bit of the time and we dawdled over a delicious lunch of sanchae bibimbap and acorn jelly. So my recollection of the visit to Songgwangsa is rather hazy.  So, if I ever get the chance to revisit this Head temple of the Jogye Sect ( the largest Buddhist sect in Korea) in Jogyesan Provincial Park, here’s my checklist of things to look out for in this temple.

1. Iljimun
This handsome gate is made of one pillar on the left and right and so it is called Iljoo Gate. This is the symbolic entrance to the temple which represents an Buddhist tenet: ‘Every truth appears from the single mind and returns to the single mind.' What makes this iljimun distinctive from iljimuns in other temples is that here the Hanja characters are written top down, instead of from right to left on the wooden plague mounted on top. The name ‘Daeseungseonjong' appears in the center, ‘Mt. Jogye' on the right, and ‘Songgwang-sa' is written on the left.

2. Samcheongyo (Rainbow Bridge) and Uhwagak ( Woohwagak) Pavilion
As you pass through the Iljumun, you’ll come to the Samcheongyo or Neunheogyo. For some reason it’s called the Rainbow Bridge but it’s not that multi-coloured ( to my relief!) What makes this bridge unique is that a pavilion is built on top of a stone arched bridge and the entire structure also acts as another gateway leading the visitor closer to the main shrine. According to the official website of the temple, as one crosses the bridge, one must let go one’s physical and mental burdens to enter the ideal world of the Buddha. Built in the early part of the 18th century, it’s now designated South Jeolla Province Tangible Cultural Asset No. 59. It’s a beautiful spot to sit and contemplate the reflections on the stream below.

3. Houses for Spirits
Look out for these tiny buildings that look as if they’re designed for dwarfish monks. Actually they’re not intended for humans but apparently spirits of the departed may need to visit temples as well to perform a rite called Cheondojae. Here, the spirits of the dead can stay the night, to purify themselves before entering the inner sanctum. Of course they have to abide by temple rules and segregation by gender has to be observed. Female spirits have to enter the Saewolgak while their male counterparts stay at the Cheokjoodang.

4. A Rice Container To Feed 4000
The Bisari Gusi was carved from bush-clover and is about 270 years old. The enormous rice container was reputedly large enough to store enough grain for 4000 monks at one time. Songgwangsa’s importance as a training ground for monks is evident by the many buildings including hermitages, dorms and lecture rooms on the grounds.

5. Ancient Chinese Juniper Trees

These twin trees, named Ssanghyngsu, on the temple grounds are at least 700 years old and have been designated as national monuments.

6. Daeungbojeon
This is the main temple which looks as if it has two roofs.



Sources:
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=762732
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=312930
http://songgwangsa.org/english/left01_01.html
http://www.lifeinkorea.com/Travel/scholla/songgwang2.htm
http://www.orientalarchitecture.com/koreasouth/ruraljeonnam/songgwangsa_gallery.php?p=songgwangsa01.jpg