Around Korea By Bus In Two Weeks, Part 1

Here's how I spent two weeks in Korea chasing the fall foliage way back in 2005. Hopefully this will be useful to  independent travellers when they plan their own trips to catch the autumn leaves this year. By no means am I suggesting that the leaves will be in the same condition around those dates - you need to check the latest fall foliage schedule for that!

For more information on buses, click here.

21 Oct - Friday
Bought and boarded from outside the Incheon International Airport, a direct bus to Daejeon. Be careful not to buy the more expensive deluxe bus as the ordinary bus is sufficiently comfortable. BTW, Daejeon is quite attractive with its gingko-tree-lined avenues and promising sculptures in the public parks. Nice to see the leaves of the gingko trees have turned yellow already.

Had a smooth changeover at the bus terminal at Daejeon and got on another bus bound for Gongju.
Found a yeogwan  or inn near the marketplace; most stalls were closed already but still some were still selling enticing piles of recently harvested mushrooms, persimmons and mandarin oranges.  Eateries within the market are usually open till the evening so I could enjoy my first meal of jjajangmyeon in a sikdang within the market.


22 Oct – Saturday
Caught  bus No 2 to Gapsa from the Gongju bus terminal near the marketplace. Too early for autumn foliage here but the rice fields are already golden and ready for harvesting.

Witnessed part of the celebrations for one of Gapsa’s patron monks were underway.

Short walk to waterfall.

Returned to Gongju to ask about Sunday city tour at the Tourist Information Centre. Staff there kindly let me join tour though I hadn’t made a booking. Stumbled upon the city mascot, i.e. a sculpture of bear beyond the TIC.

23 Oct – Sunday
Joined the free Gongju City Tour. It was conducted in Korean only though the tour guide was able to give me very brief commentaries in English.

Morning stops  of this tour included the Songsan-ri Tombs and the Gongju National Museum; admission to the latter was at an incredible deal of 400 won per person. Great weather - blue skies, sunny but cool.  In the afternoon, the bus crossed river towards Gyeryeongsan Pottery Village – Natural History Museum was the last stop.

Remember: advance bookings are strongly recommended. Note - on other days, the tour may cover places like the Pansori Centre and the Folk Museum. Unfortunately the guard changing ceremony at the fortress is not conducted in late autumn and winter.


24 Oct – Monday
Did a morning exploration of Gong-sanseong ( Fortress) near TIC before I boarded the bus for Daejeon Bus Terminal and changed to a bus for Andong. Met the head and host of Jirye Art Village in Andong.  He took all his guests to view  the  house of Yi clan in Andong and also its brick pagoda  before we were driven to JAV.

Passed orchards full of trees laden with apples. Trees with quinces and persimmons on the grounds of the JAV. Enjoyed great dinner and evening entertainment before turning in for the night in ondol-heated rooms. Beautiful starry night with crisp evening air.

25 Oct – Tuesday
Full day tour of Andong by car driven by the host of JAV. Visited Confucian Academy,  Hahoe Village, Mask Museum ( 1500 won) and a Hanji factory; 2nd night at JAV.

Red ivy on walls complimented red doors of the traditional school, while the gold of the gingko trees in Hahoe was impressive.

Eulalia waved gracefully on the banks of the river hugging Hahoe  village. 

Although it was cold, I opted for a naengmyeon lunch and though the taste was refreshing, I regretted not ordering a warm bowl of kimchi stew instead.


26 Oct – Wednesday
Got a ride from my JAV hostess to bus-stop bound for Juwangsan National Park; 20,000 won minbak opposite bus terminal and TIC; bus and then 45 minute walk to Jusanji ( pond); stunning views of autumnal tints of trees on the banks of the pond reflected in the waters.

Had to  hitch a ride back;  spent rest of evening gawking at the season’s goodies on sale outside shops leading up to park entrance – red bean in fish-shaped cakes, roasted chestnuts and eomuk. Grandmas were selling wild herbs, roasted rice or barley, dried persimmons at roadside stalls.

27 Oct – Thursday
Great walks at Juwangsan Park. As the morning mists lifted, the array of rock formations played with my imagination.

Unfortunately autumn isn't the season to appreciate waterfalls - while Juwangsan has more than its fair share of pokpos, the volume of water by this time had been reduced to undramatic proportions

But the beautiful autumn scenery in Juwangsan was ample compensation. Saw two ajummas enjoying a plate of acorn jelly while I was digging into my kalguksu after a long morning's walk.

28 Oct – Friday ( another full day of travelling)
Bought my bus ticket at the automated machine at the Juwangsan bus terminal for Daegu. Hopped onto a taxi to change from one bus terminal in Daegu to another on the other side of the city to get to Suncheon, thanks to a tip from a friendly bus driver.

My Wish List – Andong Part 7

Here’s a list of the places I’d like to visit if I ever revisit Andong. It’s a convenient base to explore the following which are outside the city proper.

1. Bongjeong-sa

The tourist brochure claims that this temple has the oldest wooden structure in Korea in its Geungnakjeon ( Paradise Hall). Curious as well about the unique wall painting style here called dancheong. Apparently the priest who founded this temple folded a paper crane, cast it to the winds and decided to set up a new temple at the site where the crane landed.

Quaint legend aside, my main reason for wanting to visit this place is to check out Yeongsan-am, a nearby hermitage. It was part of the shooting location for a film that continues to intrigue me: “Why Did Bodhidharma Go To The East?” A climb up Cheongdeunsan (574 m), the hill behind this temple, would also be nice.

Travel Tip: Take local Bus No. 51 which runs every 1½ hours from the front of Andong City Hall to Bongjeong-sa (16 km north-west of Andong)

2. Dosan Seowon

This Confucian school is probably more famous than the Byeongsan Seowon ( see blog dated  Sept 18) and it’s reputed to be so beautiful that many film directors come here to shoot historical dramas like “Painter of the Wind”. The famous scholar, Yi Toe-gye whose face appears on the 1000-won note, established this academy in 1557. For a few hundred years, it was the most prestigious school in the land – the ancient equivalent of the SKY universities that modern Korean youths aspire to enter. Wonder if the Confucian students of the past had a more stressful time than their peers nowadays.

Travel Tip: Bus No 67 from Andong City Hall ( but do confirm with the bus driver as some don’t go all the way to the seowon. You’d need to walk the extra 2 km if that’s the case but the Lonely Planet assures readers of a pleasant jaunt.

3. Cheongnyang-san Provincial Park

Cheongnyang-san lends its name to three places actually – the mountain ( 870 m ), the provincial park, and the biggest temple here. According to the Lonely Planet, there are “ eleven other scenic peaks, eight caves and a waterfall…. The temple (sits) in a steep valley below the cliffs….The park boasts some spectacular views with tracks wandering along cliff precipices.” Sounds promising to me. I’d check into a minbak near the entrance to the park, stay overnight and explore the different trails as far as my legs and nerve will allow.

Travel Tip: The same bus ( No. 67) that goes to Dosan Seowon will continue its journey to the park entrance ( it plies this route every hour; trip takes about 1 hour and 15 mins).

4. Ginkgo tree at Yonggye-ri

Ironically this enormous tree is so close to the Jirye Art Village and yet I don’t think there’s a direct route to it. The literature claims that 14 people would be needed to encircle this tree which is 37 meters tall and has a diameter of 16 meters at its base. Like JAV, it was almost destroyed by the plans to build the Imha Dam but was successfully transplanted to its new home at the southern bank.
Travel Tip: Take Bus No 28 from Andong & get off at the Giran bus stop. After that, it looks like a loooong walk to find this tree. On second thought, hire a car.

5. Buyongdae
I first saw the high cliff of Buyongdae from a strip of sandy beach at Hahoe Village. Next time, I’d like to head straight to this place to view the village from this vantage point. A perfect time to visit would be when the villagers hold their Seonyu Julbulnori ( in October) when ropes of inflammable material are stretched across the river between Hahoe and Buyongdae for a special kind of fireworks show. There are also three buildings here to visit: Hwacheon Seowon, Ogyeonjeong-sa and Gyeomamjeong-sa.

Travel Tip: Get a car. Drive past the entrance to Hahoe Village, pass the Puncheon Agricultural Co-operative and then turn left at the Doyang three-way junction, to go across the Gwangduk-gyo ( Bridge). Follow the road that goes to the left.

For more info on bus schedules to the sights around Andong, please click here.
Source of Photos: KNTO website
Dosan Seowon http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=312772
Bongjeongsa  http://bongjeongsa2.templevill.com/intro/bojeongsa.swf
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=312775

Snail Restroom in Andong – Part 2

On our second day at Jirye Art Village, we clamber into Mr Kim’s seven- seater SUV  and head off towards a handsome Confucian Academy ( seowon). There are two seowons in the outlying area near Andong.

Dosan Seowon, about 28 km north of Andong is the more famous school as those who aspired to become high officials in the government would study here and the entrance exams for would-be civil servants were held here. It also happens to be a favourite location for outdoor scenes for TV dramas like Painter of the Wind.

However, today, we’re visiting the other seowon, Byeongsan Seowon, west of Andong and just beside the river. The elevated pavilion, Mandae-ru, that overlooks the broad river is quite large and has impressive beams and columns.

The spaces between the smooth columns look like some folding screen – each with a slightly different scene. How on earth did the ancient scholars manage to concentrate on their studies with so much distracting beauty outdoors?

The steps leading up to this study pavilion are carved out of single logs without benefit of handrails so visitors with unsteady legs or a poor sense of balance may need a helping hand.

Check out the Dalpaeng-i Duitgan(snail restroom) - It's traditional hwajangshil which is  a curious snail shaped structure made of mud-stone walls with a curved entrance and passageway instead of the usual door. In other seowons, such restrooms were built from bamboo trees so luckily there's one at least made of longer-lasting stuff. It's also important enough to be ranked as historical monument No 206. Would enter  to see what the end looks like but not sure if someone is using it at the moment.

Links & sources of pics: http://www.byeongsan.net/english/sub1/sub2.asp
http://www.tourandong.com/english/coding/main.asp
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=313046

A Little Night Music at Jirye Art Village - Part 5

There’s a distinct chill in this autumn evening but the guests of JAV on the 24th October, 2005 are quite warm and ruddy-cheeked in the Ji-seon-sa-dang, formerly a Confucian schoolroom. This is partly because the heater’s on and we’re seated on cushions around a low table with teacups, fruits and snacks and largely because we’re filling each other’s cups with Andong soju ( rice wine with an unbelievable 45% alcohol content!), thanks to our generous host.

With our spirits mellowed and inhibitions loosened courtesy of the potent soju, we take turns to sing or suggest songs for others to hum or sing along. The French guests present Autumn Leaves & La Vien En Rose. Mr Kim does a wonderful imitation of the flute and we’re treated to one of his own compositions. It’s a privilege to hear the pansori singer, another guest, perform the Jindo arirang. Other Koreans join in and I marvel at their voices. “Oh yes,” Dave from Jeonju nods in jest, “ we get a lot of training in the noraebang!”

My turn to stand and deliver. Am completely intimidated by all these people with well-endowed lungs and natural singing ability. I don’t even sing in the bathroom and any lyric flies out of my head. To salvage national pride and as I owe Mr Kim a song, here’s my belated contribution to the party.

JIRYE ART VILLAGE

24 October, 2005

( dedicated to Kim Won-gil )


Here silence is a canvas -
Each paints with
A different palette.

Nature's brushstrokes
Are delicate –
Wind through leaves, bird song.

The resident pup, though,
Punctuates ( or punctures)
The canvas with sharp yaps.

Baby’s cries are highlights
Completing
A family portrait.

The dramatic strokes of
Pansori singer and drummer
Are masterly and deft.

Fragile notes from our
Host’s mouth flute
Harmonise with the calm.

French songs and soju cups
Clinking lead to strange speech
Heard only in dreams.


Sources of pics:
1. Andong soju_bottle http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SH/SH_EN_6_3_2_4.js
2. Soju glasses http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/culturenlife/culturenlife_newworlds_detail.htm?No=16

Jirye Art Village – Part 4

Don’t think I’ve ever slept in any place so old before. Quick calculation – 342 years to be exact. I’m spending two glorious nights here at the Jirye Art Village. My room was probably a store-room in the old days but now it’s converted into comfortable rooms.

Love the stark simplicity of my tiny room. Floor covered with yellow, oiled hanji; walls plastered with white paper. Zero furniture here. Just a thin “yo” (mattress) folded alongside thick blankets and pillows; some hooks to hang my coat. The only 21st century thing is the light switch. Location’s great as well. Near the dining-room but away from the washrooms. Best of all, a room with two views – of the dam and the hillside. There are actually 14 guestrooms available for tourists. I paid 20,000 won for two nights’ stay and 24,000 won for two breakfasts and two dinners. ( 2005 prices)

A bell summons us to meals in the cosy dining-room. Breakfast is traditional fare - rice with fish, mushrooms and yummy omelettes. Other memorable meals by Mrs Kim  include Andong chicken stew ( dak-jjim) and Song-i mushrooms steeped in gochujang.

Source of photos: KNTO website

Exploring Jirye Art Village – Part 3

The Jirye Art Village, a cluster of about 12 wooden buildings, is perched on a shoulder of the Yong-ji Mountain overlooking what used to be the Yesu River but is now part of the Imhaho (Dam). It’s hard to believe that I’m going to be sleeping in something that was erected in 1663.

But am more impressed with the present views than history. Sitting beside my door to my ondol room, I can admire at leisure other traditional houses across the small courtyard. Looking up towards the peak, I spot a marvelous ancient pine standing like some guardian on watch.

Pic on right: see that pink-walled building in the bottom left hand corner of the pic? That was my room for two nights.

Even more thrilled when Mr Kim, my host, rips off the mosquito netting, with a dramatic flourish, from the window and pushes the window screens fully apart to reveal great views of the waters below. With the lake on one side and hills on the other, who could ask for more?

Other discoveries: besides the regal pine, there are other trees here - lovely maples, ginkgo, persimmons ripening on bare branches, a fragrant quince and even a blackberry bush.

Photo on left: Another view of my room in the background, with ginkgo, persimmon and maple trees in foreground.

Also: family tumulis of the Kim clan, a organic vegetable patch, an ancestral shrine, a Confucian schoolhouse, and touches of modernity – a communal bathhouse with piped hot water for showers and a boat beside a jetty ( can one take the boat from Andong to JAV?)

Getting to Jirye Art Village – Part 2

The road to Jirye Art Village starts with a chance discovery on the KNTO website followed by reservations through e-mail to JAV owner, Mr Kim Wong-gil. It’s easy to get access to JAV on the Internet or a landline. But actually getting there is another matter.

First, I find my way to Andong by bus. It’s a short walk from the bus terminal to the TIC in front of the Andong train station. One call to Mr Kim ( 054) 822 2590 and soon his SUV appears to transport me to JAV. Easy enough or so I think.

The 40 minute drive from Andong to JAV takes us on a road that overlooks the Imhaho Dam and past apple orchards begging to be photographed. The hillsides are in a riot of autumn shades. The road narrows to a series of hairpin bends that test the driver’s steering skills & the passengers’ stomachs. Even driving through the main entrance of JAV is tricky as there are just a few inches to spare on both sides of the vehicle as it squeezes past the wooden portals decorated with Hanji characters painted on red paper.

If you have your own set of wheels, you could drive or pedal to JAV via Cheonjeon – Sugokgyo – Bakgok ( 30 km). Or if you prefer a more leisurely route, then take bus No. 28 from Andong to the Giran bus stop and then walk 10 km, mostly uphill, to JAV.

Source of map: KNTO website

Jirye Art Village – Part 1

If I were a film-maker, I’d make a movie or documentary about Jirye Art Village, near Andong. It’s the story of how one man, Kim Won-gil, struggled for five long years to save his ancestral homes from being inundated by the construction of a dam. He wanted to preserve the hanok for future generations and to create a refuge for those in the arts to recharge their creative batteries.

Fortunately, these traditional houses, hanok, which were built during the Joseon Dynasty, could be taken apart and reassembled. Still the logistics, time and resources involved to relocate them to a higher level must’ve been formidable. But Mr Kim, poet and former faculty member of Andong University, had the determination to realise his dream.

The entire project was completed in 1990 and since then, JAV has had about 15,000 visitors, both from Korea and other countries. It is home to three important cultural assets: Jisan Seodang, Jichonjong taek ( Head house of the Kim clan) and Jichonjechong ( shrine for sacrificial rites). Happily, it continues to inspire and educate those who are privileged enough to stay there.

Source of photos: KNTO website