Sad But True

The cartoonist here has expressed the conflict between the two Koreas most poignantly.

Elsewhere it's also been interesting to note the range of views about the attack on Yeonpyeong made on the internet by Chinese bloggers. Here are some of the striking ones:

* “China is kidnapped by North Korea,” a blogger Ruo Xiaoyi posted on Sina.com

* “North Korea is China’s Israel!”

* "The North is creating a mess when China is holding the Asian Games. North Korea really doesn’t give China a face!” said a blogger, who signed as Blossompark.
* “The reason China supports North Korea is not because it is against South Korea, but because it is against the United States,” said Douglas.


* “If South Korea really wants China to be a fair player, stop taking sides with the U.S., then the U.S. military should leave South Korea. But America clearly won’t. Therefore, China also won’t,” said another Chinese blogger.

* A: “South Korea shouldn’t bring in its adoptive father, the U.S., to the Yellow Sea with USS George Washington. That amounts to playing fire in the back courtyard of China,” said the blogger named  Achilles’


source:
http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/opinon/2010/11/195_77075.html
http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/nation/2010/11/116_77108.html

Jjimjilbang - A Refuge For Evacuees

Somebody, please confirm this for me - is it standard practice for Koreans who have been evacuated from their homes for whatever reason to be sheltered for the time being in jjimjilbangs? Or is this an exceptional instance in which a patriotic and sympathetic public sauna owner voluntarily offers his place of business to provide a temporary refuge for his fellow citizens?

I had assumed that the inhabitants of Yeonpyeong would have been put up in some civic building like a covered stadium or a school if it was closed for the term break if they couldn't stay with relatives on the mainland. So it was a little surprising to see this photo in the JoongAng Daily.

But at the same time, it isn't so surprising -as the jjimjilbang is an ideal place to house a large number of people with its ample facilities for bathing, sleeping, eating and keeping in touch with the latest news on TV in the communal spaces. Still, one wonders how long this situation can last especially as there have been news of jittery islanders being evacuated from other islands near Yeonpyeong like Baengnyeong, Daecheong and Socheong.

Caption from Joong Ang Daily: Evacuated Yeonpyeong Island residents take up temporary shelter at a jjimjilbang (a Korean public bathhouse) in Incheon yesterday. [NEWSIS]

source:
http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2928930

Yeonpyeong's Other Victims

They don't look like the same dog but I was particularly struck by these two pics from Yeonpyeong. These bewildered victims of the North Korean artillery attack on the island must've been particularly shell-shocked and I really hope some kind soul will take them off the island soon as it looks as if Yeonpyeong may be a ghost town for some time.  Even if they're not stray dogs to begin with, there's slim chance of them being reunited with their owners as most of the inhabitants have been evacuated already and putting up temporarily in jjimjilbangs in Incheon.

Caption from Korea Times:  Abandoned dog: A dog sits in front of destroyed buildings on Yeonpyeong Island near the West Sea border, Friday. The island was attacked by North Korean artillery fire, which claimed the lives of two marines and two civilians. / Korea Times photo by Bae Woo-han

Caption from Yonhap News: Nov. 27, YEONPYEONG, South Korea -- A dog wounded by a North Korean shell that hit the South Korean island of Yeonpyeong earlier this week eats part of a combat ration from a South Korean man on Nov. 27. Most of the residents on the island have evacuated since the artillery attack on Nov. 23. (Yonhap)
sources:
http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/nation/2010/11/115_77047.html
http://english.yonhapnews.co.kr/

Black Tuesday

23 November 2010 was a black day for Yeonpyeong Island and South Korea

Red circle round the artillery positions in bunkers in caves on the North Korean side

What to make of this attack? Kim Jong-un practising brinksmanship under Daddy's tutelage?

From Mark Mardell's blog:

" One astute observer, Fred Kaplan, wrote five years ago: In the game of highway chicken, North Korea is the shrewd lunatic who very visibly throws his steering wheel out the window, forcing the other, more responsible driver to veer off the road.What has changed since then is that the new boy on the road may be even more reckless than his dad and perhaps not as shrewd. As so often these days all eyes are on China. As so often there is an equal danger of exaggerating China's power as underestimating it. There is no sign as yet that North Korea is paying any attention to its only ally. Let's hope it does. It is perhaps the only hope of avoiding a terrible collision in this dangerous game of dare."

From one news source:

According to 2009 government statistics, 1,780 residents live on Yeonpyeong Island in 932 households.

Kim Hye-yeong, a 51-year-old woman who runs a crab seafood restaurant on the island, said she was on a dock to pick up boxes of seafood around 2:30 p.m. when she heard the artillery explosions. “There was an ear-splitting noise whenever the artillery landed,” Kim said. “My town is about 10 minutes away by car from where I work and I felt I must get back there to see my mother and husband. I drove to town but I had to stop, get out of the car and back onto the ground for a moment because artillery fire kept exploding on the island.So I left my car and walked to my village ... I went home and all the windows of my house were shattered and the roof had collapsed. A piece of artillery even landed on my house.”

 There are 19 shelters on the island. But underground bunkers are short on food and electricity.

Grim-faced Seoulites glued to the news at the train station - can they find consolation in the idea that there's strength in restraint, particularly after the Cheonan Incident?

The first night of mourning and candlelight vigils

sources:
http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/nation/2010/11/117_76863.html

http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/nation/2010/11/120_76860.html
http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/nation/2010/11/205_76858.html
http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/nation/2010/11/115_76867.html
http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/nation/2010/11/205_76858.html
http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2928798
http://english.chosun.com/site/data/html_dir/2010/11/24/2010112400306.html
http://english.chosun.com/site/data/html_dir/2010/11/24/2010112401039.html
http://www.bbc.co.uk/blogs/thereporters/markmardell/2010/11/a_deadly_game_of_korean_chicke.html
http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2010/11/23/korea-attack-yeonpyeong-island_n_787294.html#s189515
http://www.voanews.com/english/news/asia/Analysts-North-Korea-Shelling-Nuclear-Revelations-Linked-to-Succession-Talks-110219459.html

All I Want For Christmas Is A Sapsaree!

The Jindo dog is not the only native dog which Korea can lay claim to, according to a recent news article. There's also the Sapsaree which was even designated as Natural Treasure No. 368 in 1992. It hasn't received official recognition by international canine clubs, though as controversy surrounds its pedigree.

Anyway, here are some reasons why I'd want a Sapsaree for this Christmas:

1. See the pics above and below. Now how can one resist such cute faces, whether they're puppies or mature doggies?

2. Looks aside, they're known for their loyalty. According to one source, "A 300-year-old stone memorial in southeastern South Korea tells the story of an aristocrat who took a nap on a riverbank after too many drinks at a party. Embers from his pipe started a brush fire as he slept. His faithful Sapsaree jumped into the river and used its wet fur to douse the fire and save its master at the cost of its own life.This loyalty, combined with the animal's gentle and quiet temperament, have made Sapsaree dogs ideal as therapy animals. They have been used for this in hospitals since 1999."

3. Unlike the Japanese who only appreciated its fur for winter coats ( which explains how the breed was driven to near extinction! ), the Shilla nobility enjoyed rearing these dogs which could have even been used as military dogs.  

4. Traditional belief held that this dog was able to help its owner ward off evil - the name, Sapsaree means exactly just that.

Check out the link here for an interesting story of how this specie has been brought back from near extinction.

So, Santa - are you reading this?

sources:
http://www.reuters.com/article/idUSTRE6AG0R920101117

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sapsali
http://www.worldlydogs.com/sapsaree.php
http://eyesage.blogspot.com/2009/06/sapsaree-koreas-natural-monument-no-368.html
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19801902

Tea Ceremony for Visitors During G20 Summit

Here's a  totally trivial question: Why can't David Cameron sit cross-legged?

 Judging from the second photo, it looks like the current Prime Minister of the UK hasn't quite mastered the art of sitting cross-legged for the Korean tea ceremony. The two female tourists featured below seem more comfortable than he does.

Count yourself lucky, Mr Cameron - at least you didn't have to sit, seiza-style,  throughout a more formal Japanese tea ceremony - the traditional posture in which you sit " kneeling on the floor, folding your legs underneath your  thighs, while resting the buttocks on your heels."

Caption from Chosun Ilbo: Tourists take part in a tea ceremony event marking

the G20 Summit in Seoul on Friday. /Newsis

Caption from the Guardian: David Cameron drinks tea with monks at the Bongeunsa temple in Seoul

(Photograph: Darren Staples/PA)

sources:
http://english.chosun.com/site/data/html_dir/2010/11/13/2010111300288.html
http://www.guardian.co.uk/world/gallery/2010/nov/11/g20-summit-seoul-south-korea
http://www.guardian.co.uk/world/gallery/2010/nov/11/g20-summit-seoul-south-korea#/?picture=368621728&index=20
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Seiza

Night Photography Enthusiasts, Hurry Down To Gyeongbokgung!

Those in Seoul who enjoy night photography, you have a narrow window of opportunity to snap National Treasure No 224, that is: Gyeonghoeru Pavilion in Gyeongbokgung in all its moonlit splendour. Actually according to the JoongAng Daily, it's the "first time in its 615-year history" that it will be lit up and it's also a rare opportunity to enjoy a late evening stroll on palace grounds.

The Cultural Heritage of Administration of Korea is extending opening hours for  the palace for a short period to allow the participants and visitors for the G20 Summit to appreciate the elegance of traditional Korean architecture.

In fact, much of Seoul has been lit up as never before to showcase the landmarks of the city. So if you're into taking photos of the urban landscape at night. this is the best time to do so.

Another piece of good news is that the Seoul Lantern Festival down at Cheonggyecheon has also been extended. Check out the traditional lanterns which come from 24 countries. Light up happens daily from 5 pm to 11 pm until November the 21st.


source:
http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2928273

A Beautiful Peacock Fan

Beautiful fan - a subtle tribute to the peacock

For more on Korean fans, click here. 

source:
http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/event/g20_2010/photo.htm

Never Mind Pepero Day - Happy Farmers' Day on Nov 11!

Forget about fretting if you haven't received any pepero sticks from your beloved etc. this year. Spare a thought instead for the farmers who put the bap in your bowl, the kimchi in your side-dish and the vegetables in your bibimbap. November 11 is also Farmers' Day in Korea; or it has been so long before the day was hijacked and transformed into Pepero Day by savvy marketeers for manufacturers of choco-dipped pretzels .

Some Korean farmers are also doing good beyond their borders. A group here are sharing rice-planting techniques with farmers in Kenya.

Rice exports from Korea may not be available yet in the local supermarkets but we can already buy Korean-grown strawberries, mushrooms and seaweed in addition to tubs of gochujang and doenjang. Asian appetites for Korean agricultural products is on the rise as we learn to cook our own kimchi chigae and japchae but what's less clear is how the dwindling number of farmers can meet the growing demand for Korean food products outside its country.

But if you insist on learning more about Pepero Day, click here.

sources:

http://www.demotix.com/news/200238/korea-steps-boost-kenyan-food-security

http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/biz/2009/12/123_33193.html

http://www.arirang.co.kr/News/News_View.asp?nseq=66731&code=Ne6&category=7

Good News And Bad For Seoul Sweepers

First the good news for Seoul sweepers - you can take a break and not bother about raking the leaves on 74 streets in Seoul. According to the Korea Times, the Seoul City council has decreed that you must leave the leaves alone for the viewing pleasure of tourists and avid photographers and the tactile delight of curious children who love to romp among and scatter the piles of autumn leaves.

And now the bad news: you can start sweeping them up again by mid-November. Goodness knows if you'll be knee-deep in gingko or maple leaves by then. Let's also hope there won't be rain for the next two weeks as it's no fun sweeping soggy, rotting leaves.

Check out: One Man's Photo Opportunity is Another's Dreaded Labour

sources:

http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/art/2010/11/203_75753.html
http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/art/2010/11/153_75775.html

End of Autumn and Start of Early Winter?

Here are two heart-warming pics of people enjoying the outdoors on Sunday the 7th of October.

At the Ulsan Park

Visually-impaired walkers with their volunteer guides at Dobongsan, north Seoul.

(Korea Times photo by Bae Woo-han)

Then, Mother Nature flips the switch and this is what Koreans got on Monday morning. I just hope tourists in Korea at present packed some thicker woollies.

Read on the KBS World website:

"First Snow Falls in Seoul, Cold Weather to Continue until Wednesday.

The first snow of the season fell in Seoul and the Gyeonggi, Gangwon and Chungcheong provinces late Monday and early Tuesday. Seoul’s first snow came around two weeks faster than in previous years. Temperatures have plunged below zero in most inland areas and coastal regions are seeing strong winds.

The mercury is expected to drop further on Wednesday. Morning lows are projected to stand at minus seven degrees Celsius at Daegwallyeong in Gangwon and minus one in Seoul. The Korea Meteorological Administration is forecasting that temperatures will rise starting Wednesday afternoon."

source:
http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/news/news_Dm_detail.htm?No=77012
http://english.chosun.com/site/data/html_dir/2010/11/08/2010110800326.html

Mock G20 Summit In One Elementary School.

A praiseworthy effort by the students and staff of this elementary school but just one question - Was this mock summit conducted in Korean or English? Would be a great opportunity to drive home the point that English is the international language and these future leaders or captains of industry should be encouraged as much as possible during events such as this to practise speaking in English.

Caption from KBS: A mock G20 summit was held in Cheonil Elementary School in Suwon, Gyeonggi Province on Wednesday. Children dressed up in traditional attires of different countries as part of the event.

(Yonhap News)

Reading from a script or impromptu speaking?

Source:
http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/news/news_photo_detail.htm?No=15581

Information Booths For Fall Foliage

Don't where to find the autumn leaves in Korea? Never fear - some temporary info booths have been set up to guide visitors to the most beautiful instances of fall foliage in at least one national park. ( see below). It's not clear, though, if any or how much information will be available to English-speaking tourists.

I really don't know if there's such a need for these booths. Why can't the info ( if there's anything new in the first place) be made available in the current Tourist Information offices or the National Parks offices and even better still, the websites? The staff in such places didn't seem terribly overwhelmed with visitors even when I visited them during the peak periods. It would save Korean taxpayers a lot of money if the KNTO and NPA pooled resources to answer these basic questions which most tourists want to know:via already established channels:

1. How reliable is the fall foliage schedule issued by the KMA?
2. How will the daily changes in the weather affect the colours of the autumn leaves?
3. Which spots in the various national parks are particularly well-known for maple colours, for gingko colours or for a mixture of reds, golds, browns and greens?

Taken from the KNTO Website:
"A temporary ‘Foliage Information Center’ has opened near the entrance of Naejangsan National Park (and a few other locations around Jeongeup City) to assist seasonal visitors who’ve come to see the fall leaves. The autumn changing of the leaves is a much celebrated seasonal event in Korea and with the leaves of Naejangsan expected to reach their peak around the first weekend of November, preparations are in full swing.


In an effort to provide visitors with information on when and where to enjoy the brilliant colors, Jeongeup Municipal Office will be operating three fall information centers until November 15th. Visitors to the information centers can receive information about major tourist attractions and local delicacies (etc.) in addition to information on the leaves themselves.

‘Foliage Information Centers’ are located in the Sculpture Park near the Naejangsan entrance, near the Naejang IC, and near the Jeongeup IC of Honam Expressway. Each center operates daily from 9:00 to 18:00.

*Depending on the number of visitors and fall foliage conditions, centers may close as early as Nov 10th.


source: http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/FU/FU_EN_15.jsp?cid=1123148

Old and New On Display For G20 Summit

Caption from Chosun Ilbo: A creation made of LED displays modelled on the Cheomseongdae, a royal observatory of Silla Kingdom, at COEX, the venue of the G20 Seoul Summit.

A great example of how cutting-edge technology embraces tradition - here's the Cheomseongdae, a staple of Gyeongju's tourist attractions remade with LED screens. Participants who are unfamiliar with the pride of the Shilla Dynasty may be a bit puzzled by the structure which stands at the COEX but anyone who's paid attention to their ten-won note should appreciate the effort.

For more on Cheomseongdae, click here.

Was less enamoured with this hanbok inspired by the G20 Summit - not quibbling about the colours but the Disney-like design of the chima (skirt)  which doesn't quite have the usual understated elegance of the traditional garb of Korea.

source:s

http://english.chosun.com/site/data/html_dir/2010/11/05/2010110500847.html
http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/event/g20_2010/photo.htm

What's On The Itinerary For G20 Guests?

Given the very short stay that the privileged G20 guests will have in Seoul, it's interesting to note the places on their itinerary. What has Seoul chosen to showcase to its international guests? Granted security considerations may have meant that the obvious tourist attractions may have been ruled out but there were also some ;ess obvious choices which I didn't even know existed.

1. Visitors to the National Museum of Korea in Yongsan, central Seoul, don't be surprised that museum officials look particularly tense this week and the next as the venue will be used to hold the welcome reception for the G20 participants next Thursday. I managed to squeeze a brief half hour to visit this place in my last tour of Korea and realised my folly. To do justice to the place you need at least one full day ( or two).

The impressive frontage of the National Museum of Korea in Yongsan

The JoongAng Daily reports: "According to the committee, the museum was chosen as the venue for the welcome reception and dinner to allow the leaders to enjoy Korea’s history and cultural assets during their tightly scheduled two-day trip. The committee said 11 cultural relics will be selected and showcased, and information about each will be provided in eight different languages....The welcome reception will start at 6 p.m. and last an hour, with the event being broadcast live by major media outlets...The leaders will join a working dinner at a special hall inside the museum to begin their discussion."

If you have time to spare, you can revisit the museum grounds in the evenings

for some promising night photography practice

Alas - didn't have time to check what lay beyond those steps

which straddled the two wings of the museum

2. A special dinner for the spouses of the visiting leaders will be hosted by the First Lady, Kim Yoon-ok on Thursday evening at the Leeum, Samsung Museum of Art. ( The museum will be closed to the public on the 10th and 11th of November.)

G20 visitors may be greeted by these whimsical creatures

outside the Leeum Samsung Museum of Art

Here's a snippet from its website:


"Since its establishment in 1965, the Samsung Foundation of Culture has committed itself to the preservation and exhibition of Korean cultural heritage. Beginning with Korean artifacts collected by the late Samsung Chairman, Byung-Chull Lee (pen-name Ho-Am), the Samsung Foundation of Culture has been operating the Ho-Am Art Museum , the Ho-Am Art Gallery, and the Rodin Gallery. Following the example set by Ho-Am, Samsung Museum of Art, has dedicated himself to both the preservation of Korean art history and the exhibition of modern and contemporary works by Korean and foreign artists. ....The name for Leeum, Samsung Museum of Art, is the combination of the family name of its founder, 'Lee,' and the abbreviated word for museum, ‘um.’



3. The following day, they will tour the palace grounds and gardens of Changdeokgung and visit  the Korea Furniture Museum.  "This museum completed an ambitious twelve-year building project to become the most comprehensive private museum of its kind. Ten traditional homes were rebuilt from earlier dynasties to display the proper usage of furniture and interior decoration in order for the viewer to fully appreciate life in traditional Korean homes. The museum specializes in collecting, preserving and exhibiting traditional Korean wooden furniture with more than 1,500 traditional pieces."  Click here for a snapshot review of the place.

The Korea Furniture Museum offers more than glimpses of traditional chairs and tables.

Handsome hanok examples can also be admired here.

sources:
http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2927988
http://leeum.samsungfoundation.org/eng/main.asp
http://www.designboom.com/snapshot/cat/25/korean_furniture_museum.html
http://www.korea.net/detail.do?guid=28601
http://english.seoul.go.kr/cav/ena/mng_view2.php?idx=10465&cPage=&pidx=6
http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=268217
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=268137

Not Much Fun In Seoul With “Level 3” Alert.

It’s not going to be much fun for ordinary tourists planning to visit Seoul in the weeks leading up to the 11th and 12th of November. The Joint Chiefs of Staff of the ROK have already declared the highest state of alert i.e. Level Three, for the country in preparation for the fifth G20 Summit. In fact, a travel alert has been issued by the US State Department for its citizens for this period.

 Heightened security measures are already in place as the capital braces itself to play protective and gracious host to 10,00 participants including 32 heads of state ( including Presidents Obama and Hu Jintao ) or of international organizations ( such as Ban Ki Moon but Bill Gates has declined an invitation to this prominent power party).






So why won’t it be fun?

1. You’d probably be stuck in longer, slower-moving queues as immigration officials scrutinize very carefully your passports and visas before they admit you into the country at the international airports, international sea terminals and even small harbours.

2. Getting out of the country will also be a tedious process as travelers have been warned to arrive three hours before departure for international flights.

3. Expect disruptions to your travel plans as historically, G 20 Summits have been plagued with demonstrators clashing with anti-riot police.

4. If not, you may find yourself stuck in a bus or worse, a taxi ( with the meter ticking) behind a barricade while the VIPs whizz past in their official limousines under heavy police protection.

5. Even if you opt for the subway, you can expect them to be more crowded as Seoulites have been encouraged to leave their cars at home.

6. Forget about getting near the COEX Convention Hall, the venue for the G20 Summit. For that matter, avoid getting within a 2.2 km-radius of the COEX unless you fancy being quizzed by security personnel. Plan your route well so that you don’t get caught between a group of unruly demonstrators and water cannons.

7. As for the tourist attractions, please note that a special 3-day tour, starting on the 9th of November, has been arranged for around 2000 international reporters. Don’t be surprised if Seoul attractions seem more crowded than usual at that time. Seoul will also take the G20 participants on weeknight tours around the city so don’t hold your breath for lighter traffic in the evenings.

So, here's the best time to explore other parts of the country if you're not on the G20 guest list.
Head south for Suncheon, Gyeongju or Andong, for instance. Better still, book your airticket for Incheon after the 12th of this month.

Sources:
http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/news/news_Dm_detail.htm?No=76865&id=Dm
http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/news/news_Dm_detail.htm?No=76819&id=Dm
http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/news/news_Dm_detail.htm?No=76820&id=Dm
http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/news/news_Dm_detail.htm?No=76773&id=Dm
http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/news/news_Dm_detail.htm?No=76759&id=Dm
http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/news/news_Dm_detail.htm?No=76713&id=Dm
http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/news/news_Dm_detail.htm?No=76622&id=Dm
http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/news/news_Dm_detail.htm?No=76546&id=Dm
http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/news/news_Dm_detail.htm?No=76303&id=Dm
http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/news/news_Dm_detail.htm?No=76303&id=Dm
http://english.chosun.com/site/data/html_dir/2010/11/02/2010110200969.html
http://english.chosun.com/site/data/html_dir/2010/10/19/2010101900348.html
http://english.chosun.com/site/data/html_dir/2010/10/28/2010102800984.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2010_G-20_Seoul_summit
http://hello.news352.lu/edito-69808-skorea-to-set-up-security-fences-at-g20-summit.html

Where To Enjoy Autumn Leaves in Seoul

I've been so preoccupied about the whens of the fall foliage that I've almost forgotten to consider the wheres.
Here, then is a list of places where you may enjoy the fall foliage. ( not in any order of preference):

1. Gyeongbokgung - Leaves on the palace grounds are expected to peak around early November. According to the Cultural Heritage Administration. "early to mid November will be the best time to enjoy fall foliage at the royal palaces in downtown Seoul....Leaves will begin to turn about ten days later than normal this year. It ....expects the scenery to be better than normal as a result of wide differences in daily temperatures."

 2. Changdeokgung

( Exit 3, Anguk Station, Line 3) "A UNESCO World Heritage site, this Joseon-era palace includes many serene gardens. One of Changdeokgung's gardens houses over a hundred varieties of trees. However, in order to appreciate the foliage of the Changdeokgung gardens trees, visitors must join a guided tour or pay a hefty 15,000 won for an all-day self-guided tour only available on Thursdays."

3.  Changgyeonggung

4. Deoksugung   - It is also open at night but do check out in the daytime Deoksugung Stone Wall ( Exit 3 or 12, Deoksugung Station, Line 1 or 2). Fans of the TV drama series, Lovers in Prague, may recall a romantic scene shot here.

5. Samcheongdong Road, a.k.a. Gallery Road,  which starts at the south east corner of Gyeongbokgung, is lined with gingko trees. You can also explore the beautiful grounds on Samcheonggak.

6. Namsan - I'd suggest you walk up to the top and then take the cable car down. That way, you can also enjoy the 'chak-chak' of the local magpies. (Their size was also surprising.)

7. Bugaksan - Actually I think I enjoyed the views of the Seoul suburbs from Bugaksan more than from the vantage point of Namsan Tower. Probably because it was more hard-earned as the climb up Bugaksan seemed to be harder-going. Don't take my subjective word for it.

8. Jongmyo Shrine

If your timing is right, you'll also get to witness a Confucian ritual held here in grand style.

9. Sowolgil

"Running south of Mt. Namsan for almost 4km, this ginkgo-lined boulevard (best approached via Exit 1, Myeongdong Station, Line 4) offers plentiful space for rest and quiet contemplation. Sowolgil in fall looks like a scene from a film, with bright leaves scattered artfully across the walkway. The pathway eventually connects to Namsan Park." You may want to check if the bicycle elevator that is supposed to be built on this road has been completed. What does a bicycle elevator look like?

10. Hongneung Arboretum
" Seoul's only arboretum, Hongneung Arboretum (approached via Hoegi Station, Line 1 or Exit 3, Korea University Station, Line 6) is made up of nine gardens, including an aquatic garden, a wetland garden, a coniferous tree garden, and a garden of edible and medicinal plants. The garden of broadleaf trees, located behind the main building, is stunning in fall when hundreds of trees transform into a vivid array of bold colors. A tour of the entire arboretum ─ approximately 780 square meters in area ─ takes nearly three hours and is free of charge."

sources:
http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/news/news_Dm_detail.htm?No=76485&id=Dm
http://english.chosun.com/site/data/html_dir/2010/10/28/2010102800984.html
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=1104134
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264337
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264348
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264316
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264350
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=261031
http://www.korea.net/detail.do?guid=46128
http://www.klm.com/destinationguide/gb_en/airline-ticket/asia/east-asia/south-korea/seoul/thingstodo.htm
http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264314