Mureung Valley: In the Footsteps of KBS's Hwang Jin-yi, Part 1

Nothing beats sageuk ( Korean historical dramas) for getting inspiration when planning your travel itinerary around Korea. For some inexplicable reason, I've been watching again the KBS drama, Hwang Jin-yi and salivating each time the beautiful scenery of the countryside is featured. So here's the first part of my wish-list as I try to follow the footsteps of the KBS version of Hwang Jin-yi's story. ( Not much point trying to trace the trail of the original gisaeng as she lived in what is now North Korea).

First stop: the famed Mureung Valley in Gangwon-do, popular in the past among poets and these days among K-drama producers. It  forms the backdrop to the scene in which an aristocratic youth ( played by Jang Keun-suk) chances upon Hwang Jin-yi (played by Ha Ji-won) as one of the gisaengs-in-training. Just as it's love at first sight for the young man, it's love at first sight for yours truly as well and I wonder why I didn't pay attention to the mention of this place in my Lonely Planet guidebook. Now I kick myself mentally for this omission as I've also learnt that it's also been used as the outdoor shooting location for two of my other K dramas, Painter of the Wind and City Hall.




Click here for the link to KTO website.

I'd probably find a bus to Gangwon-do from Incheon International Airport.

May have to change at Chuncheon to get to Donghae. If it's late in the day,

 I'd stay at a jjimjilbang near the bus station at Donghae.

If Samhwasa temple or its nearby hermitages here don't have an informal temple-stay,

I guess I could easily find a minbak just outside the park grounds.

Must mentally prime myself not to expect gushing

 waterfalls as they tend to dry up in autumn.

I'd spend time to gawk and marvel at the Chinese characters inscribed on these rock faces.

And of course, hike up to see the Twin Falls.

From the KTO website:

Mureung Valley (무릉계곡), which spans from Mt. Dutasan (두타산) and Mt. Cheongoksan (청옥산), refers to a four-kilometer stretch from Hoamso Pond – where, according to a legend, a tiger drowned to death – to Yongchu Falls, located upstream. The waters of Mureung Valley flow over wide sheets of rocks and into the cracks between them, forming a large and particularly splendid pond along the path. Starting at Mureung Rock, a wide sheet of single rock on which hundreds can sit, the valley twists and turns around Samhwasa Temple, Haksodae Falls, Okryudong, and Seonnyeotang Ravine, all the way to Ssangpok and Yongchu Falls, providing breathtaking scenery along the way. Also known as ‘Arcadia,’ scholars and poets frequented the valley in olden times and the 5,000-m2 Mureung Rock bears the inscribed names of some of these poets and their works. The valley offers a medley of curious-looking rocks and stones, and other odd scenery that attracts many tourists.

Also, I'd need to check out Sogeumgang in the vicinity.
Hiking Trails - 3 suggestions from KTO:
* Trail 1:  Entrance - Mureung Rock (무릉반석) - Samhwasa Temple (삼화사) - Dutasanseong Fortress (두타산성) - Dutasan Mt. (두타산)

* Trail 2: Entrance - Mureung Rock - Samhwasa Temple - Gwaneumsa Temple (관음사) - Gojeokdae (고적대) - Dutasan Mt.

* Trail 3: Entrance - Haksodae (학소대) - Ssang Waterfalls (쌍폭포) - Youngchu Waterfalls (용추폭포) - Bakdallyeong (박달령) - Cheongoksan Mt. (청옥산)

Travel options:
1. Take a bus from East Seoul Terminal to Donghae. Nineteen rounds of bus services are provided everyday from 07:09 to 20:05 and the ride takes about 3 hours.

Or take a train from Cheongnyangni Station to Donghae/Mukho Station. Six rail services are provided everyday from 07:00 to 22:40 and the ride takes about 6 hours.

2. Once you are in Donghae, you can take a city bus from Donghae Intercity Bus Terminal to Mureung Valley. (The bus operates at 30-minute intervals and the 14.1 kilometer journey takes about an hour.)

 
sources:
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=789870#
http://punynari.files.wordpress.com/2010/03/forfigure-fm.jpg?w=600
http://tigersandmagpies.com/2010/01/donghae-cheongok-cave-mureung-valley/
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TlKdfq64mj0&feature=player_embedded
http://www.skynews.kr/article_print.asp?mcd=60&ccd=6&scd=3&ano=37
http://english.dhtour.go.kr/guide/10.htm

A Study of Two Portraits

First learnt about this portrait from the TV drama series, Painter of the Wind, starring Moon Geum-yong and Park Shin-yang. In the fictionalised account of Joseon dynasty painters, Shin Yun-bok is an apprentice to  Kim Hong-do who teaches the former a thing or two about portrait painting in one of my favourite scenes.
It's fascinating to study the contrasts between the original and the modern versions. English teachers may want to set this as an exercise on describing differences. ( Partially jesting.)

Caption from the JoongAng Daily:

"This self-portrait of the Joseon painter and scholar Yun Du-seo (1668-1715), left, known as one of the masterpieces of Korean art, is now being exhibited at the Yun Seon-do Museum, which opened in Haenam, South Jeolla, last Friday. Du-seo was the great grandson of Seon-do, one of the most important writers of the Joseon period. Coincidentally, contemporary artist Kang Hyung-koo, known for his fresh interpretations of portraits of historic figures based on existing paintings or photos, is showing his version of the Yun Du-seo self-portrait, right, as part of his solo exhibition, which runs to Dec. 12 at the Youngeun Museum of Contemporary Art in Gyeonggi."


To watch the drama series on-line, click here.
To listen to the music from the OST, click here.
sources:
http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2927422

Danwon's Portrait of Threshers and Landowner

Threshing ( Tajak - 타작 )

Landowner's Sijo

It's dull work but someone has to do it or they will dawdle in the shade.
Still, I'd rather sit at home with a brush in my hand  instead of this pipe,
working on a portrait of the king. Why am I reduced to a watch-dog?

One Thresher's Sijo

I guess he did good in his former life for him to loaf like this now,

But it's little comfort to me hatless and pipeless under the summer sun,

Could I be reborn instead as a bird or fly, free from envy and bitterness?

Another Thresher's Sijo

The sun's a harsh landlord to us but it's kind to the rice; this harvest
means I can carry home rice for the children tonight. But is there enough
to put on the altar for the child who starved and died the year before?

For earlier postings with sijo inspired by Danwon:

Portrait of a Family
Danwon's Classroom

sources:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Danwon-Byeo.tajak.jpg
http://article.joins.com/article/article.asp?Total_ID=3319781
http://everything.explained.at/Danwon/
http://thewordshop.tripod.com/Sijo/sijo-index.htm
http://sejongculturalsociety.org/writing/current/sijo_guide.html

How To Look At A King - Jeonju, Part 4

Used to think that portraits weren’t as interesting as landscape paintings or sketches of folk scenes. But after watching the SBS drama, Painter of the Wind, I’m now more inclined to give this genre more than a cursory glance.  Pity that I hadn't seen the drama series before I visited Gyeonggijeon in Jeonju. I would've spent a more enriching time there if I had known the following earlier:

Royal portraits ( eojin or ojin) were particularly important during the Joseon Dynasty as it had embraced the Confucianist tradition of ancestral worship. The Joseon kings had their visages depicted in portraits as a way of representing their “aspirations for the perpetuation of their dynasty”. When ordinary citizens bowed before the portrait of the king, it was as good as pledging allegiance to him. That's why Yi Song-gye, a.k.a. King Taejo, founder of the Joseon Dynasty, sought to validate his rise to power by a coup d’etat by commissioning no less than fourteen official portraits.

 Here's what I've gathered so far about the do's and don'ts of admiring portraits of the royalty in Korea.
 

1. DON'T march up to the shrine and hop over the low hurdle as if you're about to say Howdy to King Taejo. Instead, approach the shrine INDIRECTLY as a sign of respect. I guess eyeballing the royal portrait head-on  is a no-no as it can be interpreted as a sign of impertinence. That's why that low barricade is there in front of the entrance - to signal to visitors that they need to approach the portrait in an oblique fashion by using the side entrances.

2. Observe first the backdrop of the portrait. According to an article in the Spring 2006 edition of Koreana,  the "panels depicting the sun, moon and five peaks..( are) in accordance with the traditional practice.... In this way, the portrait of Taejo is being respected as if he were still the ruling sovereign". Strange thing is - I can't see any moon or mountains? We could be talking about different copies of portraits - the artists tended to make changes according to trends or personal preferences whenever they made reproductions so copies were never fully alike.

Also, the contrast between the simple lines of the figure and the details in the clothes, throne and carpet are intended to underscore the "authority and dignity of the king".

 

3. Note the position of the subject in the portrait. In most Joseon Dynasty portraits, the subject is seated at an angle but one has a straight-forward view of King Taejo. Some experts believe the perspective was meant to set him apart from the rest as the founder of the Joseon Dynasty.

4. Next, pay attention to the black headpiece perched on the head of the monarch. The ikseongwan has flaps sticking out from the back which symbolize a cicada's wings. Its "piercing sound is said to be expressive of sovereign dignity and its metamorphosis a symbol of rebirth".

5. Consider now the emperor's clothes...oops.. I mean, the king's clothes. He's decked out in blue ( "a carry-over influence of the Goryeo-style protraits") unlike late Joseon kings who preferred red.

6. Finally, take a close look at the face of King Taejo. Look out particularly for the mole above his right eyebrow. Portrait painters were careful to present unidealised faces of their sitters as the complexion reflected the personality of the subject. Verisimilitude of visage was so important to the Joseon kings that King Yongjo proclaimed that if a single strand of hair in the painting was different from the original, he would not consider that portrait to represent his ancestor.

So the scars, moles, pockmarks and other distinctive facial features had to be depicted as accurately as possible by the Joseon painters. Indeed, so faithful were they that Dr Lee Sung-nak was able to present a research paper, " An Analysis Of Skin Ailments Shown In The Portraits of the Chosun Dynasty"!

 Note: All quotes here are from Koreana, Spring 2006 edition.

Source:
http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/art/2009/12/148_7813.html
http://www.clickkorea.org/arts/curator/file/2-2_Portraits%20of%20the%20Choson%20Dynasty.pdf
http://koreana.kf.or.kr/pdf_file/1992/1992_AUTUMN_E034.pdf

Gyeonggijeon - Jeonju, Part 3

Our tour guide in September, 2003 was most anxious that we didn't miss this site during our stop-over in Jeonju.  At that time I wasn't in the right frame of mind to appreciate why he was willing to pass up on Pungnammun. Instead he was determined  that we spent a good part of an hour listening attentively to the local guide explain, not very coherently or clearly, the significance of this place. After all, most tourists come to the country without the benefit of Korean History 101 so a crash course in the various dynasties is likely to give the average person mental indigestion. Which comes before which -  Baekje or Joseon or Shilla?

Gyeonggijeon Shrine -a stone's throw away from Jeondong Cathedral

So very often, visits to sites of historical importance end up being clashes between the desire and pride of the patriotic and earnest Koreans who want to share their past and the befuddled foreigners  in packaged tours who can barely recall which city they were in the day before. Ironically TV dramas may help boost interest especially if one can relate the 3D reality of a building or temple to an exciting dramatic moment featuring some dashing general or unenlightened monarch with some ambitious concubine or vengeful lady-in-waiting.

To be honest, what mildly impressed me about Gyeonggijeon when we went there was its general atmosphere of peace and quiet. We had just emerged from  the noise of traffic and crowds in the city centre to find ourselves in this unexpected haven of tranquillity.

Though the shrine was enclosed within low walls, there was still a sense of space with long paths leading up to the main buildings.

The fact that the place was built to hold important artefacts like the portrait of the founder of the Joseon Dynasty, the mortuary tablets for a royal couple, palanquins ( see pic below) and a stupa housing some royal's placenta ( or is it umbilical cord?  See pic above) barely registered.

It was only after watching the TV drama, Painter of the Wind  a few years after that tour, that I had a better appreciation and stronger interest in royal portraits. Sometimes one can be in the right place at the wrong time. We were also probably too late to see the local seniors have their daily meetings here to play Korean chess or simply chit-chat. So we had to make do with the silent company of these figures mounted on the walls.

sources:

http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264419

http://www.orientalarchitecture.com/koreasouth/jeonju/gyeonggijeon_gallery.php?p=gyeonggijeon01.jpg

http://www.ocp.go.kr:9000/ne_dasencgi/full.cgi?v_kw_str=&v_db_query=A4%3A35&v_db=2&v_doc_no=00002437&v_dblist=2&v_start_num=131&v_disp_type=4
http://jikimi.cha.go.kr/english/search_plaza_new/EMapResultView.jsp?VdkVgwKey=13,03390000,35&queryText=(v_esidocode=35%3Cand%3E%20v_elcto=11)&strGuCode=11&strSidoCode=35&requery=
http://koreana.kf.or.kr/pdf_file/2006/2006_SPRING_E048.pdf
http://www.worknplay.co.kr/entertain/travel_view.php?num=497

Danwon's Classroom

Schoolmaster's Sijo

Even the youngest here can answer this simple question!

Why doesn't he know? Why can't he understand?

Fifty winters ago, I was him. How quickly I've forgotten what I learnt.

The KNTO webpage now has an on-line art gallery featuring works by Kim Hong-do ( also known as Danwon) and Shin Yun-bok, the painters featured in the SBS 2008 drama production, Painter of the Wind. Danwon is known for his humorous and humanistic sketches of ordinary people.

For similar postings
Danwon's Threshing
Danwon's Classroom


sources:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sijo

Danwon's Portrait of A Family

Husband's Sijo

She nags about the price of radishes, my drinking,

Our child cries - hunger or a wet bottom?

Two hours before home where I can enjoy silence.

Wife's Sijo

The cradle on my head's heavy, the child on my back, heavier.

How much rice can we afford to buy for dinner tonight?

Two lovers I rejected for him and now this.

Baby's Sijo

He winks and smiles but he's red as a berry

Her back is warm but wet; she smells of fish and milk.

Two funny people. Where have I seen them before?

Stumbled upon this addition to the KNTO webpage - an on-line art gallery featuring works by Kim Hong-do ( also known as Danwon) and Shin Yun-bok, the painters featured in the SBS 2008 drama production, Painter of the Wind. Happy viewing!

For similar postings

Danwon's Threshing

Danwon's Classroom

sources:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sijo

Painter of the Wind OST

Here's the OST from one of my favourite dramas. "Painter of the Wind" was a 2008 SBS production, starring Park Shin-yang and Moon Geun-young. It was directed by Jang Taeyu and Jin Hyeok. Am posting this as an intro to something I just stumbled upon in the KNTO website. More in my next posting.




Song by Jo Sung- Mo, lyrics from baidu, translated by sevenses
Song of the Wind

저 달빛 아래 너와 나　　이토록 가까운데
Under that bright moon, you and I, are separated by so little
손에 닿을 듯 　눈에 보일 듯 　더 아련한데
When I almost touch you, your gaze turns towards that hazy memory
나 얼마나 더 살아야　　 널 다시 불러볼까
If I live on, can I call on you again?
목이 메일 듯 　숨이 멎을 듯　 널 불러본다
It’s hard to make a sound, my breathing will stop, I continue trying to call to you
널 안고 바람이 불어온다　　 내 마음 씻어간다
It’s as if the wind has carried you here, fleeting like the twilight

어린 날에 꾸었던 소녀의 꿈처럼 따듯한
Like a dream of childhood, like a young girl’s dream, this warm wind
널 안고 달려간다　 하늘 끝까지 간다
Confidently, you lift your head to walk to the ends of the world.
이미 지나가버린 어린 날 꿈처럼 아득한
It’s already passed by, this youthful dream, and we are far from one another

또 기다림이 머물러 　기나긴 밤을 새워
The decision to stop waiting, keeps you awake at nights
너를 그리다　 너를 그리다 　또 짙은 어둠
In the dark of night, you continue to paint
널 안고 바람이 불어온다　 내 마음 씻어간다
It’s as if the wind has carried you here, fleeting like the twilight
어린 날에 꾸었던 소녀의 꿈처럼　따듯한
Like a dream of childhood, like a young girl’s dream, this warm wind

널 안고 달려간다 　하늘 끝까지 간다
Confidently, you lift your head to walk to the ends of the world
이미 지나가버린 어린 날 꿈처럼 아득한
It’s already passed by, this youthful dream, and we are far from one another

언제나 처럼 또 올 것처럼 넌 그렇게 살다가
Life goes on as usual, seeking for you when you live like the wind
내 맘처럼 　저 바람처럼
My heart, is like that wind
넌 그대로 와　　 난 너에게 가　　 너를 안아
I am the only one at your side, you are the only one at mine, I wanted to use this to embrace you
바람이 불어온다 내 마음 씻어간다
My heart is being gently cleansed by the passing wind
푸른 언덕 위에서 세상을 비추는 빛으로
On that blue mountain, you shine to illuminate the world
널 안고 달려간다 　하늘 끝까지 간다
Confidently, you lift your head to walk to the ends of the world
깊은 어둠 속에서 내 맘을 비추는 소리로
In the dark night, shine on my fluttering heart
달파란 하늘 아래 　네 이름 불러본다
Under the limpid moonlight, I call out your name
어딜가나 주었던 그 따뜻함으로 가득한
Wherever you go, remember to feel the wind’s longing.

source:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=APh_D5b6fqY
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kim_Hong-do
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/CU/CU_EN_8_5_1_54.jsp
http://sevenses.wordpress.com/2008/10/10/song-of-the-wind-painter-of-the-wind-theme/#more-861
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/painting.kto?func_name=view&lang_se=ENA&painting_id=pc0520000228

Snail Restroom in Andong – Part 2

On our second day at Jirye Art Village, we clamber into Mr Kim’s seven- seater SUV  and head off towards a handsome Confucian Academy ( seowon). There are two seowons in the outlying area near Andong.

Dosan Seowon, about 28 km north of Andong is the more famous school as those who aspired to become high officials in the government would study here and the entrance exams for would-be civil servants were held here. It also happens to be a favourite location for outdoor scenes for TV dramas like Painter of the Wind.

However, today, we’re visiting the other seowon, Byeongsan Seowon, west of Andong and just beside the river. The elevated pavilion, Mandae-ru, that overlooks the broad river is quite large and has impressive beams and columns.

The spaces between the smooth columns look like some folding screen – each with a slightly different scene. How on earth did the ancient scholars manage to concentrate on their studies with so much distracting beauty outdoors?

The steps leading up to this study pavilion are carved out of single logs without benefit of handrails so visitors with unsteady legs or a poor sense of balance may need a helping hand.

Check out the Dalpaeng-i Duitgan(snail restroom) - It's traditional hwajangshil which is  a curious snail shaped structure made of mud-stone walls with a curved entrance and passageway instead of the usual door. In other seowons, such restrooms were built from bamboo trees so luckily there's one at least made of longer-lasting stuff. It's also important enough to be ranked as historical monument No 206. Would enter  to see what the end looks like but not sure if someone is using it at the moment.

Links & sources of pics: http://www.byeongsan.net/english/sub1/sub2.asp
http://www.tourandong.com/english/coding/main.asp
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=313046