credit: Yonhap
Ajumma's Journal
Monday, November 30, 2009
Blow from a Billow
High waves did this to part of the esplanade in Sokcho Beach, Gangwon. Those out for a morning jog by the beach, do watch out please.
Danwon's Portrait of A Family
Husband's Sijo
She nags about the price of radishes, my drinking,
Our child cries - hunger or a wet bottom?
Two hours before home where I can enjoy silence.
Wife's Sijo
The cradle on my head's heavy, the child on my back, heavier.
How much rice can we afford to buy for dinner tonight?
Two lovers I rejected for him and now this.
Baby's Sijo
He winks and smiles but he's red as a berry
Her back is warm but wet; she smells of fish and milk.
Two funny people. Where have I seen them before?
Stumbled upon this addition to the KNTO webpage - an on-line art gallery featuring works by Kim Hong-do ( also known as Danwon) and Shin Yun-bok, the painters featured in the SBS 2008 drama production, Painter of the Wind. Happy viewing!
For similar postings
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sijo
Sunday, November 29, 2009
Painter of the Wind OST
Here's the OST from one of my favourite dramas. "Painter of the Wind" was a 2008 SBS production, starring Park Shin-yang and Moon Geun-young. It was directed by Jang Taeyu and Jin Hyeok. Am posting this as an intro to something I just stumbled upon in the KNTO website. More in my next posting.
Song by Jo Sung- Mo, lyrics from baidu, translated by sevenses
Song of the Wind
저 달빛 아래 너와 나 이토록 가까운데
Under that bright moon, you and I, are separated by so little
손에 닿을 듯 눈에 보일 듯 더 아련한데
When I almost touch you, your gaze turns towards that hazy memory
나 얼마나 더 살아야 널 다시 불러볼까
If I live on, can I call on you again?
목이 메일 듯 숨이 멎을 듯 널 불러본다
It’s hard to make a sound, my breathing will stop, I continue trying to call to you
널 안고 바람이 불어온다 내 마음 씻어간다
It’s as if the wind has carried you here, fleeting like the twilight
어린 날에 꾸었던 소녀의 꿈처럼 따듯한
Like a dream of childhood, like a young girl’s dream, this warm wind
널 안고 달려간다 하늘 끝까지 간다
Confidently, you lift your head to walk to the ends of the world.
이미 지나가버린 어린 날 꿈처럼 아득한
It’s already passed by, this youthful dream, and we are far from one another
또 기다림이 머물러 기나긴 밤을 새워
The decision to stop waiting, keeps you awake at nights
너를 그리다 너를 그리다 또 짙은 어둠
In the dark of night, you continue to paint
널 안고 바람이 불어온다 내 마음 씻어간다
It’s as if the wind has carried you here, fleeting like the twilight
어린 날에 꾸었던 소녀의 꿈처럼 따듯한
Like a dream of childhood, like a young girl’s dream, this warm wind
널 안고 달려간다 하늘 끝까지 간다
Confidently, you lift your head to walk to the ends of the world
이미 지나가버린 어린 날 꿈처럼 아득한
It’s already passed by, this youthful dream, and we are far from one another
언제나 처럼 또 올 것처럼 넌 그렇게 살다가
Life goes on as usual, seeking for you when you live like the wind
내 맘처럼 저 바람처럼
My heart, is like that wind
넌 그대로 와 난 너에게 가 너를 안아
I am the only one at your side, you are the only one at mine, I wanted to use this to embrace you
바람이 불어온다 내 마음 씻어간다
My heart is being gently cleansed by the passing wind
푸른 언덕 위에서 세상을 비추는 빛으로
On that blue mountain, you shine to illuminate the world
널 안고 달려간다 하늘 끝까지 간다
Confidently, you lift your head to walk to the ends of the world
깊은 어둠 속에서 내 맘을 비추는 소리로
In the dark night, shine on my fluttering heart
달파란 하늘 아래 네 이름 불러본다
Under the limpid moonlight, I call out your name
어딜가나 주었던 그 따뜻함으로 가득한
Wherever you go, remember to feel the wind’s longing.
source:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=APh_D5b6fqY
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kim_Hong-do
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/CU/CU_EN_8_5_1_54.jsp
http://sevenses.wordpress.com/2008/10/10/song-of-the-wind-painter-of-the-wind-theme/#more-861
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/painting.kto?func_name=view&lang_se=ENA&painting_id=pc0520000228
Song by Jo Sung- Mo, lyrics from baidu, translated by sevenses
Song of the Wind
저 달빛 아래 너와 나 이토록 가까운데
Under that bright moon, you and I, are separated by so little
손에 닿을 듯 눈에 보일 듯 더 아련한데
When I almost touch you, your gaze turns towards that hazy memory
나 얼마나 더 살아야 널 다시 불러볼까
If I live on, can I call on you again?
목이 메일 듯 숨이 멎을 듯 널 불러본다
It’s hard to make a sound, my breathing will stop, I continue trying to call to you
널 안고 바람이 불어온다 내 마음 씻어간다
It’s as if the wind has carried you here, fleeting like the twilight
어린 날에 꾸었던 소녀의 꿈처럼 따듯한
Like a dream of childhood, like a young girl’s dream, this warm wind
널 안고 달려간다 하늘 끝까지 간다
Confidently, you lift your head to walk to the ends of the world.
이미 지나가버린 어린 날 꿈처럼 아득한
It’s already passed by, this youthful dream, and we are far from one another
또 기다림이 머물러 기나긴 밤을 새워
The decision to stop waiting, keeps you awake at nights
너를 그리다 너를 그리다 또 짙은 어둠
In the dark of night, you continue to paint
널 안고 바람이 불어온다 내 마음 씻어간다
It’s as if the wind has carried you here, fleeting like the twilight
어린 날에 꾸었던 소녀의 꿈처럼 따듯한
Like a dream of childhood, like a young girl’s dream, this warm wind
널 안고 달려간다 하늘 끝까지 간다
Confidently, you lift your head to walk to the ends of the world
이미 지나가버린 어린 날 꿈처럼 아득한
It’s already passed by, this youthful dream, and we are far from one another
언제나 처럼 또 올 것처럼 넌 그렇게 살다가
Life goes on as usual, seeking for you when you live like the wind
내 맘처럼 저 바람처럼
My heart, is like that wind
넌 그대로 와 난 너에게 가 너를 안아
I am the only one at your side, you are the only one at mine, I wanted to use this to embrace you
바람이 불어온다 내 마음 씻어간다
My heart is being gently cleansed by the passing wind
푸른 언덕 위에서 세상을 비추는 빛으로
On that blue mountain, you shine to illuminate the world
널 안고 달려간다 하늘 끝까지 간다
Confidently, you lift your head to walk to the ends of the world
깊은 어둠 속에서 내 맘을 비추는 소리로
In the dark night, shine on my fluttering heart
달파란 하늘 아래 네 이름 불러본다
Under the limpid moonlight, I call out your name
어딜가나 주었던 그 따뜻함으로 가득한
Wherever you go, remember to feel the wind’s longing.
source:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=APh_D5b6fqY
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kim_Hong-do
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/CU/CU_EN_8_5_1_54.jsp
http://sevenses.wordpress.com/2008/10/10/song-of-the-wind-painter-of-the-wind-theme/#more-861
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/painting.kto?func_name=view&lang_se=ENA&painting_id=pc0520000228
Footnotes for Naejangsan, Part 6
Here are some tips for visitors to Naejangsan National Park:
Naejangsan National Parks Visitors Centre above
1. Check out the National Parks Visitor Centre ( not to be confused with the National Parks Information Centre) - tourists can make use of the free internet access to email friends and family about how their feet are killing them! For more info on getting there and staying there, click here.
Naejangsan National Parks Information Centre
2. Get free map which shows topography of the park and information from the friendly staff at the NP Visitors Centre here before setting off on your walk. I regret assuming that it was beyond my ability and fitness level to attempt to reach one of the lowest peaks here and denied myself the opportunity to brag about it to friends.
Study the contours and gradients and check your feet before heading for the peaks and ridges.
3. Forget about looking for waterfalls in autumn/ fall. They're not terribly exciting as this is the dry spell. As a matter of fact, it can be so dry that the locals practise water rationing at times so check with the ajumma if before you take a shower in your yeogwan or minbak.
4. Check with the meteorological department - I was at NNP a few days before the autumn leaves were expected to turn 100% red and was lamenting that I only saw them at 60 % of their full maple glory. By a stroke of luck, I found myself back in Naejangsan a few days later, when they were supposed to reach the peak of their scarlet hues according to the autumn foliage schedule and guess what happens? It rains and pours and many of the poor dampong drop to the ground, limp and despondent.
source:
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/FU/FU_EN_15.jsp?cid=808007
http://naejang.knps.or.kr/Naejangsan_eng/intro/facilities.html
3. Forget about looking for waterfalls in autumn/ fall. They're not terribly exciting as this is the dry spell. As a matter of fact, it can be so dry that the locals practise water rationing at times so check with the ajumma if before you take a shower in your yeogwan or minbak.
4. Check with the meteorological department - I was at NNP a few days before the autumn leaves were expected to turn 100% red and was lamenting that I only saw them at 60 % of their full maple glory. By a stroke of luck, I found myself back in Naejangsan a few days later, when they were supposed to reach the peak of their scarlet hues according to the autumn foliage schedule and guess what happens? It rains and pours and many of the poor dampong drop to the ground, limp and despondent.
source:
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/FU/FU_EN_15.jsp?cid=808007
http://naejang.knps.or.kr/Naejangsan_eng/intro/facilities.html
Thursday, November 26, 2009
Traipsing Noisily on the Bridge of Love - Naejangsan Part 5
The Bridge of Love ( Sarangui dari) isn't a bridge but actually a rocky stretch of the trail in Naejangsan National Park somewhere along the Wonjeokgol Nature Interpretive Trail ( 3.6 km) between Naejangsan Visitors' Centre and Byeongnyeongam ( Pyokyonam). This part of the footpath is actually an example of talus or scree rock ( Again I wished I had paid more attention in geography class!) which is the "accumulation of broken rock on a steep mountainside".
Legend has it that your wish or dream can come true if you can walk along this bit without rattling the rocks. Too bad I couldn't be bothered to tread lightly but traipsed along noisily and somewhat defiantly. There's an impressive example of ilex macropoda ( variety of holly) here for those interested in botany. If you're lucky and your timing's right, you may spot the bright red berries on its branches. Managed to spot some birds and a pretty green and white spider here.
credit: Rob Crawford - Example of talus outside Korea
Legend has it that your wish or dream can come true if you can walk along this bit without rattling the rocks. Too bad I couldn't be bothered to tread lightly but traipsed along noisily and somewhat defiantly. There's an impressive example of ilex macropoda ( variety of holly) here for those interested in botany. If you're lucky and your timing's right, you may spot the bright red berries on its branches. Managed to spot some birds and a pretty green and white spider here.
Ilex macropoda - cousin of the Christmas holly
sources:
Wednesday, November 25, 2009
Some Zen-like Moments in a Pavilion, Naejangsan Part 4
After the cable car ride, I start on a trail which quickly becomes a steep climb ( by my humble standards). Fortunately, I'm wearing the right shoes this time and my walking stick is proving an indispensable companion. Reach Wonjokam ( Woljeogam) with an unexpectedly large but gaudy gold-flaked Buddha at the back of this hermitage.
credit: victorwkf
What really catches my eye is a stunning maple next to it.
The trail leads me next to Pyokyoam and here I spend a fair bit of time just soaking in the great views from the pavilion here. One side faces the peak and pavilion which I visited earlier in the morning by cable car. Another view presents the opportunity to admire at leisure its shades of red, gold, russet and green. Beyond that, there is a deep pond witha striking stone screen island. As one faces the main temple, the view beyond it is quite inspiring - a thin bamboo grove with granite stone screens of three peaks that resemble some Oriental screen.
Credit: victorwkf
On the left side of the hermitage, a stone staircase leading to goodness knows where is flanked by other pretty maples. The temple grounds also house a stupa with four lions ( relatively new-looking) and a stone lantern that reminds me of Hwaeomsa. I sit on a bamboo bed and keep altering my position so that I can enjoy the four contrasting views.
Others stop by to stretch their legs or lie down for 40 winks. At one point it gets quite crowded in the pavilion: a grand total of ten people including yours truly. But they speak in low tones so the peace is maintained. Very Zen-like. A dwarfish gentleman offers me half a zucchini which I save for a picnic lunch later. I leave this spot most reluctantly.
http://members.virtualtourist.com/m/p/m/39fed9/
http://members.virtualtourist.com/m/p/m/39ff2c/
Tuesday, November 24, 2009
Early Birds Get The Shots, Naejangsan Part 3
Shades of autumn in Naejangsan National Park ( November, 2005)
The National Parks staff at Naejangsan are probably the most hard-working bunch. They were already selling tickets at the entrance booth at 6 a.m. Not kidding. I could've taken the park shuttle to get to the cable car station but thought I'd do a bit of warming-up and walk instead. Besides I knew the ticket booth wouldn't open so early but I hadn't reckoned on there being a queue in front of it before it opened at 7 am. The 45 minute walk had, fortunately, done its job of warming me up and the excitement was building as we tried to wait patiently in the nippy air.
It was a short ride to the top of one of the many peaks that surround the valley. Just in time for sunrise but I had to share standing space at a pavilion with some avid photographers who thought nothing of lugging their massive tripods and lenses up the ridge for some spectacular shots.
View of the cable car station amid summer foliage
It was a short ride to the top of one of the many peaks that surround the valley. Just in time for sunrise but I had to share standing space at a pavilion with some avid photographers who thought nothing of lugging their massive tripods and lenses up the ridge for some spectacular shots.
View of cable car station in the valley far below from one of the seven main peaks
encircling Naejangsa. Dawn is breaking and the photographers are clicking away madly.
On my way back to the cable car station, I paused to gape at a man balancing at least six heavy boxes on his back with the help of a traditional bamboo carrier as he made his way along the narrow ridge path to goodness knows where.
source:
http://www.knto.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=658455&nearBy=site
Monday, November 23, 2009
How to Escape the Crowds at Naejangsan, Part 2
Taken in the tourist village just outside the entrance to Naejangsan National Park before 8am.
1. Wake up very early before everyone else so that you can take pics like these. By 9am the tour buses would start rolling in and then these pavements would be full of pedestrians, salesmen and panhandlers. So, once again, set the alarm clock, get dressed and have breakfast before dawn so that you can be ready to start snapping at first light. More on early birds getting the pics in my next posting.
Glorious dampong a.k.a. maples!
2. Go during winter but then, you wouldn't see sights like the above obviously.
3. Hit the less-popular trails.
Sunday, November 22, 2009
Not So Easy Getting Away From It All - Naejangsan Part 1
Set off from Gwangju for Naejangsan around mid-day. BIG mistake. Found myself stuck in a traffic jam. What would’ve been a simple 1½ hour bus ride turned out to be an extra hour long crawl up to this provincial town which didn’t look unlike Seoul in terms of population, noise and traffic. Whoever told me that it would be less crowded on weekdays was mistaken. Or maybe, on second thought, that person was still right as the weekend jams would’ve been twice as long. ( Yes, they were.)
Still, the one kilometer leading up to the entrance of Naejangsan National Park is a pretty place to get stuck in a long queue of buses and cars all inching towards the parking area if one’s timing is right. I was lucky to be able to admire the bright scarlets of the dampong ( maple leaves) at leisure as the trees flanked the road leading up to the park entrance. Click here for the 2009 autumn foliage schedule.
The noise and crowds at the village centre were quite overwhelming. It wasn’t just the excited chatter from local tourist groups but the loud music as well blaring from loudspeakers of the various eateries and vying for their attention. There were more restaurants ( sikdangs) and shops than expected in this small tourist village. Didn’t think I’d get any sleep if I spent the night amid the cacophony so I retreated towards what looked like a cluster of minbaks away from the centre.
Still, the one kilometer leading up to the entrance of Naejangsan National Park is a pretty place to get stuck in a long queue of buses and cars all inching towards the parking area if one’s timing is right. I was lucky to be able to admire the bright scarlets of the dampong ( maple leaves) at leisure as the trees flanked the road leading up to the park entrance. Click here for the 2009 autumn foliage schedule.
It's much quieter in the tourist village in other seasons.
The noise and crowds at the village centre were quite overwhelming. It wasn’t just the excited chatter from local tourist groups but the loud music as well blaring from loudspeakers of the various eateries and vying for their attention. There were more restaurants ( sikdangs) and shops than expected in this small tourist village. Didn’t think I’d get any sleep if I spent the night amid the cacophony so I retreated towards what looked like a cluster of minbaks away from the centre.
Chose the “Happy Days” minbak, largely on account of its eye-catching orange facade and its relative proximity to the park entrance and bus stop. Given a really tiny room with no window and a temperamental TV but at least it was in the privileged position within the house and I could use the family bathroom. My friendly hosts, Mr Lee and his wife invited me into their kitchen which also looked like the main operations centre as a desktop sat in one corner of the crowded area. The missus kindly offered me coffee and slices of juicy pears and proudly showed me their webpage with photos sent by previous guests. Husband and son are fencers but a pity I didn’t get a chance to see them in action.
For this place I had to fork out 30,000 won per night. Realized soon enough that everything was expensive in Naejangsan. Elsewhere in the country, meals like sanchae bibimbap could cost between 4000 and 5000 won but here, every restaurant seemed to be charging no less than 7000 won for ordinary meals. Small wonder then that I became a frequent patron of the small Family Mart outlet here.
From Travel Journal dated 2 November 2005.
source:
Friday, November 20, 2009
One of Yun Sondo's Five Friends
The first version is by Larry Gross:
How can it stand so erect when its insides are empty?
Bamboo, I praise you in all seasons, standing green no matter what
The second by Kevin O'Rourke comes from his book, The Book of Korean Shijo:
Neither wood nor grass;
who made it straight, why is it hollow? So green all the year round; that's why I like it.
The third is my long-winded reworking ( with no regard for the technical rules of sijo composition):
Consider this: too skinny to be a tree, too thick to be grass;
You stand tall and strong, though insubstantial within.
Yet, despite the seasons, you remain steadfast in hue.
source:
http://thewordshop.tripod.com/Sijo/yunsondo.html
http://www.candlemaking.com/store/Bamboo-P2302C31.aspx?UserID=581291&SessionID=JvqIw2qWrguWYkTn4Ryr
More Armchair Travelling Around Damyang
Close-up of craftwork with bamboo
One last look at Damyang in Jeollanam-do before moving on to another part of Korea.
Click here for a video of Damyang, produced by KBS World Radio for the travel series, Touring Korea.
Look out for the jakbuin ( bamboo wife) and the bamboo rice.You can also listen to interviews with craftsmen who work with bamboo as well as interviews with local tourists to Damyang if you click on the sound icon on the top right hand corner.
source of pic:
Korean Cultural Insights ( KNTO publication)
Thursday, November 19, 2009
Bouquets and Briquettes
In some countries, bags of rice or baskets of bread may be the typical gift from volunteers to those in need. However, in South Korea, the coal briquette is the daily must-have of lower-income households and a welcomed donation especially during the chilly seasons.
The yeontan or yontan, as it is called, was an idea borrowed from the Japanese in the 1920s and it became a staple in many homes after the Korean War. Used to heat the ondol floors and as fuel for cooking, these were more convenient to use instead of natural coal or firewood.
They were easier to store, stack and transport and the holes drilled into them made burning more efficient. In fact, they were voted by Koreans in a 1970 survey as "the most important product of our time".
It was a locally produced and cheaper source of fuel and it did help to check deforestation as an alternative to firewood. However, it did have its drawbacks. It tended to pollute the air and occasionally people who were sleeping on ondol floors which weren’t sealed properly died from carbon monoxide poisoning. Still, as late as 1986, about 80 percent of homes around the country were using yontan.
I'm not sure if I'd agree with Professor Andrei Lankov who believes that yeontan will eventually become extinct as more households have access to electricity. It's true that subsidies for them are being phased out to keep prices of other energy sources competitive but the demand for glue-bonded coal dust will be around for some time.
At the very least, the humble yeontan will remain part of the nostalgia for simpler but more heart-warming times as evident in this true account by Lim Yong-Ae. In her essay, she quotes some lines from a poet:
" Don't kick a spent yeontan thoughtlessly / Have you ever burned yourself like it with passion for someone else?"
On the surface, they look like innocuous lotus pods. But shouldn't this factory worker
in a briquette factory in Chuncheon be wearing a protective mask ?
Easier to deliver briquettes when the houses are down the road
They were easier to store, stack and transport and the holes drilled into them made burning more efficient. In fact, they were voted by Koreans in a 1970 survey as "the most important product of our time".
A gift of compassion, Korean-style
It was a locally produced and cheaper source of fuel and it did help to check deforestation as an alternative to firewood. However, it did have its drawbacks. It tended to pollute the air and occasionally people who were sleeping on ondol floors which weren’t sealed properly died from carbon monoxide poisoning. Still, as late as 1986, about 80 percent of homes around the country were using yontan.
Many hands make light work of delivering briquettes uphill
I'm not sure if I'd agree with Professor Andrei Lankov who believes that yeontan will eventually become extinct as more households have access to electricity. It's true that subsidies for them are being phased out to keep prices of other energy sources competitive but the demand for glue-bonded coal dust will be around for some time.
At the very least, the humble yeontan will remain part of the nostalgia for simpler but more heart-warming times as evident in this true account by Lim Yong-Ae. In her essay, she quotes some lines from a poet:
" Don't kick a spent yeontan thoughtlessly / Have you ever burned yourself like it with passion for someone else?"
Sources:
http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/news/news_photo_detail.htm?No=13915¤t_page=
http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/news/news_photo_detail.htm?No=13915¤t_page=
For How to make briquettes http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20081001031957AAtrYBC
Tuesday, November 17, 2009
"They're ACTRESSES...they CANNOT wait!"
“You gotta understand…they’re actresses – they cannot wait!” ( line from The Actresses)
At the press conference: All that bitchiness was just for the camera. We're really good friends!
Can’t wait to see this one. Am even more eager to watch this than Rain's Ninja Assassins. Director Lee Jae-yong ( Untold Scandal) has brought together a fascinating ensemble of Korean actresses for a real vs reel ( or is it real in reel ?) movie. The movie poster promises ingredients which make for delicious entertainment: scandal, pride, fame, jealousy, mystery and complex.
GIRL POWER: clockwise from top left: Yoon Yeo-jeong, Lee Mi-sook,
Go Hyeon-jeong, Kim Ok-bin, Kim Min-hee and Choi Ji-woo.
Go Hyeon-jeong, Kim Ok-bin, Kim Min-hee and Choi Ji-woo.
Six actresses playing “themselves” are brought together for a photography session for VOGUE on Christmas Eve. Watch sparks fly as rivalries, insecurities and big-time egos get in the way of the shoot. We can look forward to tensions between the junior and senior actresses, between the used to be famous versus more recently popular stars – all revealing a pecking order of sorts. One hopes there’s chemistry between the six leading ladies here: Yoon Yeo-jeong (Worlds Within), Lee Mi-sook ( Untold Scandal), Kim Min-hee ( Asako In Ruby Shoes) , Go Hyeon-jeong ( Queen Seon-deok ), Choi Ji-Woo ( Winter Sonata), and Kim Ok-bin ( Thirst).
( Interesting footnote and discovery: Yoon Yeo-jeong's thumbnail sketch isn't on the KNTO webpage dedicated to Hallyu actresses- now is this an honest oversight or an example of ageism?!!)
Why does Lee Jae-yong ( director for Untold Scandal, the remake of Dangerous Liaisons, starring Jeon Do-yeon and Bae Yong-joon) suddenly remind me of the late, great director, Robert Altman ( of M*A* S* H, The Player, Short Cuts & Gosford Park fame)? Perhaps it’s the ensemble cast, perhaps it’s the unscripted plot which calls for a lot of improvisational work and even more trust in the director. Maybe this comparison isn’t justified and maybe it’s not even fair to Mr. Lee Jae-yong. Either way, I hope I won’t be disappointed.
To whet your appetitie, here's the trailer. Movie's expected to be released on 10 Dec.
Source:
Taking It Nice and Slow in Korea's " Slow City"
Here's my Damyang wish list ie. things I want to do if I'm lucky enough to revisit the place. Why I didn't do these the first time I was there? Put it down to poor timing, lousy decision-making after days of solo backpacking and being overwhelmed by the officers in blue. See previous posting.
Moreover, when I visited the place in 2005, Damyang hadn't yet been proclaimed as a "Slow City". A village called Samjicheon within the county only became the first place in Asia to be part of the "Cittaslow" movement in 2007. This movement is actually a "global cultural trend aimed at improving the quality of life in small towns while resisting hectic and fast-paced urban lifestyles, and .... a cultural shift against anything done or made quickly."
So,in keeping with the spirit of the place. this is my dream itinerary:
1. The Damyang Bamboo Museum
Funny enough, I never got round to visit this place. I guess my assumption that there wouldn't be any explanatory boards in English put me off going there but that's a pathetic excuse as the artefacts and handicrafts can speak for themselves. So I have to be content with a bit more armchair travelling, thanks to this videoclip produced by KBS World Radio until I can find my way there.
2. Soswaewon Garden
This long-established tourist attraction showcases a Joseon-style garden complete with pavilions, water mills, falls and bridges. I'd pack a picnic lunch to savour the balance between nature and man-made beauty whilst trying to compose some sijo under the friendly shade of a pavilion.
3. Junokwon ( Bamboo Forest Theme Park)
I'd spend at least half a day here to look out for the three species of bamboo featured here ( Bunjuk, Wangdae, Maengjongjuk) and do some serious reading to learn more about these fabulous grasses beforehand. I'd linger till evening when they switch on the lights to create a different ambience for the bamboo groves here.
4. Gamagol Valley
I'd follow the Youngsan-gang ( river) into some of its deep valleys to look for the first and second Yongdam Waterfalls.
5. Geumseong ( Fortress) Wall
This fortress wall, built during the Goryeo Dynasty, in the only one in the country with the complete set of doors facing all the four main points of the compass. I'd need a full day to complete the 7,345 meter circuit and the top of the mountain here is 603 m above sea level. The fortress links many ridges here and rewards hikers with great views of the lake.
6. Stay in Samjicheon
I'd soak in the atmosphere here, understand what the scent of bamboo is truly like, take part in making hangwa ( traditional sweets) and dyeing fabrics the traditional way while staying a few nights at this hanok village.
7. Find a restaurant which serves Juktongbap ( also known as daetongbab)
This is a local specialty - a meal of rice, bamboo shoots and other vegetables steamed in the hollow of a bamboo.
Sources:
http://www.damyang.go.kr/eng/s02/01.html
http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/nation/2009/11/281_42833.html
• http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=70655
• http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/FU/FU_EN_15.jsp?cid=317001
• http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=309578
• http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=76416
• http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_4_12_15_2.jsp
• http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=815404
• http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=815387
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/41/Korean_cuisine-Juktongbap-02.jpg
Moreover, when I visited the place in 2005, Damyang hadn't yet been proclaimed as a "Slow City". A village called Samjicheon within the county only became the first place in Asia to be part of the "Cittaslow" movement in 2007. This movement is actually a "global cultural trend aimed at improving the quality of life in small towns while resisting hectic and fast-paced urban lifestyles, and .... a cultural shift against anything done or made quickly."
So,in keeping with the spirit of the place. this is my dream itinerary:
1. The Damyang Bamboo Museum
Funny enough, I never got round to visit this place. I guess my assumption that there wouldn't be any explanatory boards in English put me off going there but that's a pathetic excuse as the artefacts and handicrafts can speak for themselves. So I have to be content with a bit more armchair travelling, thanks to this videoclip produced by KBS World Radio until I can find my way there.
2. Soswaewon Garden
This long-established tourist attraction showcases a Joseon-style garden complete with pavilions, water mills, falls and bridges. I'd pack a picnic lunch to savour the balance between nature and man-made beauty whilst trying to compose some sijo under the friendly shade of a pavilion.
3. Junokwon ( Bamboo Forest Theme Park)
I'd spend at least half a day here to look out for the three species of bamboo featured here ( Bunjuk, Wangdae, Maengjongjuk) and do some serious reading to learn more about these fabulous grasses beforehand. I'd linger till evening when they switch on the lights to create a different ambience for the bamboo groves here.
4. Gamagol Valley
I'd follow the Youngsan-gang ( river) into some of its deep valleys to look for the first and second Yongdam Waterfalls.
5. Geumseong ( Fortress) Wall
This fortress wall, built during the Goryeo Dynasty, in the only one in the country with the complete set of doors facing all the four main points of the compass. I'd need a full day to complete the 7,345 meter circuit and the top of the mountain here is 603 m above sea level. The fortress links many ridges here and rewards hikers with great views of the lake.
6. Stay in Samjicheon
I'd soak in the atmosphere here, understand what the scent of bamboo is truly like, take part in making hangwa ( traditional sweets) and dyeing fabrics the traditional way while staying a few nights at this hanok village.
7. Find a restaurant which serves Juktongbap ( also known as daetongbab)
This is a local specialty - a meal of rice, bamboo shoots and other vegetables steamed in the hollow of a bamboo.
Sources:
http://www.damyang.go.kr/eng/s02/01.html
http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/nation/2009/11/281_42833.html
• http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=70655
• http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/FU/FU_EN_15.jsp?cid=317001
• http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=309578
• http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=76416
• http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_4_12_15_2.jsp
• http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=815404
• http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=815387
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/41/Korean_cuisine-Juktongbap-02.jpg
Monday, November 16, 2009
Whirlwind Tour of Damyang in a Police Car, Part 2
Here's a brief run-down of my 2005 tour of Damyang, courtesy of the local police. See previous posting.
Daenamugol Bamboo Park
This place is the location for a number of TV drama series like Damo but I didn’t know that when I visited this place in 2005. But one doesn’t really need to do a Hallyu pilgrimage to do justice to this place. Just wear comfortable walking shoes and read up beforehand about the different types of bamboo to appreciate this place more fully. It’s a balm to the senses to walk quietly along the narrow paths flanked by tall and slender bamboo. Have to keep reminding myself that they’re not trees but grasses that share similar genetic make-up with rice and wheat.
Songhac Experience Museum
E-mail: songhac7179@naver.com
This small museum has a fairly engaging collection of artefacts - such as furniture, clothing, ceramics, kitchen and farming utensils and even turn of the century schoolbooks - that give the visitor an idea of what life was like for ordinary Koreans in times past. Displays are on two floors and there are some hands-on activities like brass rubbings and collecting imprints of seals.
Unfortunately, there weren’t any explanations in English so I had to use my imagination a fair bit to figure out what’s what. There were also larger exhibits around and on a small pond outside the main building but I didn’t have time to look around further.
Lake Damyang
If you’re lucky to be in a car or if you can rent one, the winding road alongside this pretty lake makes a great drive. If you have more time, you can also check out the Chuwol or Juwol Tourist Site, the camping grounds on Gamagol, and the Geumseong Fortress Wall.
Metasequoia Road
Click here for my earlier posting on this attraction.
Credit: Kiwistyle, dcinside
sources:www.damyang.go.kr
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=706556
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/FU/FU_EN_15.jsp?cid=317001
Sunday, November 15, 2009
Alone in Love
Sorry to hear that Korean TV dramas are taking a turn for the highly sensational and scandalous. Makjang dramas seem to be making inroads into primetime TV slots.
The JoongAng Daily quotes one on-line dictionary definition of makjang dramas as those shows “that contain complex, twisted relationships, unreasonable and extreme situations and provocative scenes.” It adds that they “frequently feature incidents that rarely happen to a person in a lifetime.” Examples include: Wife's Temptation and Wife is Back.
Haven't seen these shows so can't really comment but one wonders whether such shows will boost or weaken the Hallyu Wave abroad where fans have been attracted to the wholesome entertainment for the family.
Personally, I'm not keen on the likes of Winter Sonata. Give me something like "Alone in Love" anyday. Check out the great performances from Son Ye-jin and Gam Woo-Seong in the 2006 SBS drama production.
Friday, November 13, 2009
How I Ended Up In A Police Car in Damyang
Dear police officers in Damyang,
There I was, back in 2005, a bewildered tourist just looking for a yeogwan in Damyang. I'd just come from Hwaeomsa by bus and I looked in vain for the non-existent tourist information centre. Didn't realise that your town wasn't quite ready for tourists from abroad - there was only a small information booth at the bus ticketing counter and there weren't any brochures in English ( unlike most other places I had visited in South Korea).
So after a quick mid-morning snack of kimchi burger ( couldn't taste any kimchi at all!), I popped into a few motels but they were too expensive. Next, I stopped by a motel which had a distinctively seedy air within and the bug-eyed appearance of the guy at the reception counter made me even more uneasy. I guess it was THAT which made me give in to the impulse to pop into the police post just round the corner to ask you guys if you could recommend a place to stay.
To my surprise, you weren't able to suggest confidently any particular minbak or yeogwan but one of you did hit upon the idea of a 24-hour jjimjilbang. I gathered from my very limited Korean that it wasn't so easy to get there on local buses ( or maybe you thought I wouldn't be able to find my way around). Whatever it was, I found myself escorted into the back of a patrol car and whisked away by two of your colleagues. You drove me to the jjimjilbang, Bamboo Health Land, and after some rapid exchanges with the girls at the reception counter there, it was settled that I would stay there the night.
But it was still early in the day and so you kindly decided to take me on a tour of your hometown. Obviously the crime rate in Damyang is/ was non-existent if you could spare the time to play tour guide. So I ended up for a good part of the day riding around Damyang at the back of a police car. I was so embarrassed that you even had to keep opening the door for me as it had no handles at the back! At one point, the two of you had to go off duty or attend to some task yet you still arranged for another patrol car to continue the impromptu tour.
I could kick myself now for not taking a photo with you in front of the police car as proof but at that point I was so bowled over by your kindness that I didn't dare impose on you any further.Not sure now how many people will believe this story but I think many who've travelled in Korea and encountered the spontaneous goodwill of your compatriots will understand.
So gentlemen, Gamsa-hamnida for your patience and hospitality! Thank you so much for a wonderful tour of your town. In the end, I will always remember Damyang, not for the lush bamboo groves but for all you officers who went beyond the call of duty in helping me out.
Warmest wishes,
Ajumma
More on my Damyang day-trip in future postings!
The Most Beautiful Road in South Korea?
Forget the tree-lined path on Nami Island. Go to Damyang and look for an avenue flanked by the granddaddy of those deciduous conifers, also known as Dawn Redwoods. Almost 40 years ago, 600 metasequoias were planted along a 6.5 km stretch of road (including Routes 15 and 24 ) on the edge of this small town which is perhaps more famous for its bamboo groves.
It's been voted a number of times by the Ministry of Construction and Transportation, no less, as the most beautiful road in Korea. The trees have grown to a height of about 20 meters. In springtime and summer, they form a green canopy for drivers, cyclists and pedestrians to admire. In winter, the bare branches are laced with snow and create a different romantic mood.
It's been voted a number of times by the Ministry of Construction and Transportation, no less, as the most beautiful road in Korea. The trees have grown to a height of about 20 meters. In springtime and summer, they form a green canopy for drivers, cyclists and pedestrians to admire. In winter, the bare branches are laced with snow and create a different romantic mood.
Credit: Kiwistyle, dcinside
The road has now become a celebrity of sorts since it was featured in the hit movie, "Splendid Vacation" as well as in "Traces of Love". It's also appeared in many commercials. Small wonder then that it attracts more than 500 visitors daily. More recently, Yoon Eun-hye's character in the KBS drama, My Fair Lady, learnt to ride a bicycle along this road.
I went to Damyang in search of bamboo trees, not expecting this lovely, evocative avenue. Riding at the back of the police car along this stretch and seeing the dignified trees lined up like some official welcoming committee made me feel very much like a VIP treated to a special local delicacy.
I went to Damyang in search of bamboo trees, not expecting this lovely, evocative avenue. Riding at the back of the police car along this stretch and seeing the dignified trees lined up like some official welcoming committee made me feel very much like a VIP treated to a special local delicacy.
Some Fascinating Facts About Dawn Redwoods ( (Metasequoia glyptostroboides) So Far:
A "living fossil", the redwood goes back to prehistoric times. There are fossils of the dawn redwood which are thought to be 200 million years old.
At first it was thought to be extinct but then was rediscovered in Hubei Province, central China in 1941. The find was described as the botanical equivalent of finding a living dinosaur.Seeds were collected and passed onto garden enthusiasts who grew them in their gardens. At one point it grew to such numbers that the trees were even axed to make pulp. More recently though, the specie has seen hard times again; this time the threats come from rice cultivation, over-logging and "inbreeding depression" which makes it less hardy.
Its slender leaves change from green to gold to reddish-brown before falling off in the winter. The bark of its thick trunk can develop a brown or orange tint.
It's related to the giant sequoia (Sequoiadendron giganteum) found in North America and the lifespan of the oldest specimens are around 600 years.
It's not simply eye candy. Scientists in Korea Advanced Institute of Science and Technology, Daejeon have found extracts from the tree may be very useful in dealing with tumours.
Click here for an enthusiastic description of this tree.
Sources:
A "living fossil", the redwood goes back to prehistoric times. There are fossils of the dawn redwood which are thought to be 200 million years old.
Photograph courtesy President and Fellows of Harvard College
It's related to the giant sequoia (Sequoiadendron giganteum) found in North America and the lifespan of the oldest specimens are around 600 years.
Redwood bonsai
It's not simply eye candy. Scientists in Korea Advanced Institute of Science and Technology, Daejeon have found extracts from the tree may be very useful in dealing with tumours.
Click here for an enthusiastic description of this tree.
Sources:
http://www.koreaherald.co.kr/NEWKHSITE/data/html_dir/2009/07/14/200907140046.asp
http://treesandshrubs.about.com/od/commontrees/p/DawnRedwood.htm
http://betterbonsai.blogspot.com/2008/01/dawn-redwood-bonsai.html
http://www.bonsaiwest.com/gallery/masterpieceBonsai/images/redwood.jpg
http://environment.nationalgeographic.com/environment/photos/chinese-plants/dawn-redwood.html
http://www.educationalfossils.com/educational-fossils/metasequoia/metasequoia-M.jpg
http://www.icogitate.com/~tree/dawn.redwood.timeline.ac10.htm
http://treesandshrubs.about.com/od/commontrees/p/DawnRedwood.htm
http://betterbonsai.blogspot.com/2008/01/dawn-redwood-bonsai.html
http://www.bonsaiwest.com/gallery/masterpieceBonsai/images/redwood.jpg
http://environment.nationalgeographic.com/environment/photos/chinese-plants/dawn-redwood.html
http://www.educationalfossils.com/educational-fossils/metasequoia/metasequoia-M.jpg
http://www.icogitate.com/~tree/dawn.redwood.timeline.ac10.htm
Wednesday, November 11, 2009
Pepero Day VS Garaetteok Day - Among Some Trivia Just Dug Up
- Pepero didn't originate from Korea. It's been sold in the Japanese market as Pocky since 1965?
- In some elementary school,s classmates exchange Pepero gifts at 11: 11 am on Nov 11? ( the figures lined up look like the chocolate covered snacks lined up)
- The celebration started off in 1994 in a middle school for girls in Busan.
- Female classmates traded them to express their fond wish to be as slender as Pepero. ( This is version 1 of its origins)
- It may be a brainwave of the Lotte marketing department ( Version 2 of origins)
- Some schools have made it official policy to ban the exchange of such gifts on Nov 11 as they deem it a distraction.
- Even adult Koreans celebrate Pepero Day - it's a relatively cheap way to earn brownie points with your colleagues, employees or employers.
- It's serious business - Sales one year amounted to 44 billion won! Since 2000, sales have experienced double-digit growth.
- Lotte has even dedicated a website to PD with a new theme song each year.
- Merchandise related to PD just keep getting bigger and more varied - earrings, film screenings, notebooks etc.
- In a bid to beef up rice consumption, the National Agricultural Cooperative Federation ( a.k.a Nonghyup) are trying to promote Nov 11 instead as "Garaetteok Day" ( Rice-cake Day).
Hmm...something tells me GD isn't going to take off.
Sources:
http://www.pepero.co.kr/img/flash/ani/ani03.swf
http://www.post-gazette.com/pg/06314/737326-82.stm
http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2489311
http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2912393
http://www.johyunjae.hk/blog/rewrite.php/read-4694.html
Tuesday, November 10, 2009
One Man's Photo Opportunity is Another Man's Dreaded Labour
"I HATE maple leaves!", a Korean friend declared emphatically sometime back while we were talking about autumn. Turns out while doing his national service, he was given the task of sweeping the grounds of his barracks. Apparently there were a number of maple trees there that shed their leaves with scant concern for his never-ending labours. One person's delight in autumnal foliage is another's dreaded daily grind. Just one example of the Ying-Yang tension (or is it balance?) of life in Korea, I guess. Or is it a case of too much of a good thing? Love maple and ginkgo leaves but I certainly wouldn't want to be in this gentleman's shoes. Still remember grumbling each time I had to sweep the fallen leaves from the mango tree in our tiny garden.
Yonhap News
http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/news/news_photo_detail.htm?No=13878