What really goes on during Chuseok?

Here’s my list of questions:
1. How many young Korean adolescents are playing traditional games like ‘yut’ (a board game played by tossing sticks) instead of being glued to their Gameboys or Playstations?

2. How many Korean women and  men actually wear hanbok?

3. Do the ajummas get any help from the menfolk in preparing the food?

4. What percentage of Koreans prefer to spend their long weekends outside Korea?

5. Can urban Koreans connect emotionally with traditions of Chuseok especially as they relate to agricultural activities?

6. What are the unwritten social rules for the buying and exchanging of gifts?

7. Do Koreans of the Moslem or Christian faiths practise the Chuseok customs like charye and seongmyo?

8. How will future generations of Koreans observe Chuseok?

Sources of pics:

http://utour.goryeong.go.kr/eng/htmlpage.php?menu_code=10093http://asiandramaresource2.blogspot.com/2007/01/what-happened-in-bali.html
http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/upload/news/top(16).jpghttp://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/nation/2009/09/115_52319.html
http://www.capaa.wa.gov/community/korean_americans.shtml
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/picturegalleries/picturesoftheday/3812054/Pictures-of-the-day-17-December-2008.html?image=7

Chuseok – The best of times Part 2

Here are some reasons why Chuseok is the best of times for visitors to the ROK:

1. Ample photo opportunities as many children and ladies are dressed up in beautiful jewel tones of the hanbok.

2. If you hate city crowds, this is your chance to cruise along on public buses and you don’t have to jostle for space in the trains. The capital almost becomes a ghost-town as most Seoulites have gone back to their ancestral homes.

3. The museums and other tourist attractions usually have special concerts and activities that feature traditional games and  food during the long weekend. Still clueless about where to go and what to do? Click here.

4. It’s a great time to see Korean families in a relaxed frame of mind enjoying things together outdoors.

5. The TV stations usually broadcast special programs so you’re more likely to see your favourite Hallyu star in some game show or concert. Click here for more if you're planning to be a couch potato in Seoul.

Next posting: What I'd really like to ask about Chuseok
Pics taken at Namsangol Hanok

Chuseok - The Worst of Times, Part 1

I thought I was used to seeing traffic jams but I wasn’t prepared for the almost never-ending lines of cars that streamed out of Seoul on the eve of Chuseok. If you ever need proof that Seoul is made up of people whose roots are elsewhere in the country, look no further than this national three-day holiday, held each mid-autumn according to the traditional Chinese lunar calendar. It is a time when most Koreans return to their hometowns for family reunions and rituals to honour their ancestors.

The bus and train stations are exceptionally crowded and those with their own set of wheels are not that fortunate because they’re likely to be stuck in massive traffic jams as more than 4.2 million cars clog up the main highways leading out of the capital.

My own first experience of Chuseok was on the tour bus heading towards Seoul and I remember feeling amazed at the number of cars all making their way in the opposite direction. The bumper to bumper traffic was moving so slowly that I could even see some drivers reading newspapers, chatting on their mobile phones and even one person cutting his toenails.

Chuseok can be the worst of times to find yourselves in Seoul. You can’t go shopping, your choices of where to dine are extremely limited and even places of entertainment, like the department stores and restaurants, are closed for at least three days. On my 2003 trip to South Korea, I had forgotten that the timing coincided with this important holiday. It was very disappointing because I couldn’t show my travel companion the wonderful mazes and array of merchandise on sale at Namdaemun Market. However, it was one of the few times I was glad we were on a package tour. At least our meals were arranged by our tour guide; otherwise we would’ve have been walking around and around looking for a place to eat.

It can also be a pretty stressful time for some Koreans as well. I remember reading a local news article in English about how housewives in Korea were particularly tired out from all the food preparations they had to make for the elaborate rituals. Couples may bicker over whose side of the family to visit first to pay their respects. One emerging trend among younger Korean couples is to book a tour out of the country during this period to avoid all the hassles. Single Korean girls may have to run the gauntlet of embarrassing questions from relatives about their single status while the occasional quarrel may erupt when the festivities include too many glasses of soju. It’s a sad time for homeless Koreans as they have no family to celebrate with them.

For more information about what's closed and what's not, click here.

Source: http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/nation/2007/09/117_10804.html


Next posting: Chuseok - The best of times

SHIRI - a fish, a wish and a codename

Turning the clock back to 1999 -to celebrate the 10th anniversary of the release of SHIRI - Korea's first blockbuster and the rise of Korean films in the global arena. What a cast - Han Suk-kyu, Choi Minsik, Song Kang-ho, and Kim Yoon-jin - big names that have grown even bigger. It has action, romance, tragedy, humour, tight editing and great acting plus a song by Carol Kidd that closes the movie beautifully.

The name of the film refers to:
1. A kind of freshwater fish, native to Korea - apparently it only exists in the purest of waters so ironically can only be found in the DMZ.
2. The codename for the North Korean spy, one of the main characters in the movie
3. a wish for reunification ( not just for the divided Koreas but also for the lovers)
"Here's the official music video from the film Shiri, directed by Kang Je Gyu (Brotherhood) and starring Han Kyu-Suk (Scarlet Letter), Choi Min-Sik (OldBoy), Kang Ho-Song (JSA) and Kim Yoon-Jin (Lost)."

Thank you to bobbybulletbobson for posting on youtube.

BTW, closing scene was shot in Joongmun-dong, Seogwipo, Jeju-do

For Darcy Paquet's review, click here.
For Anthony Leong's review, click here.

Want to be a DJ for a Day on KBS World Radio?

The deadline for the KBS World Radio DJ for A Day Contest is around the corner - 4th October, 2009!

If you've ever fantasized about being a DJ for a radio show that features K-pop songs, send your ideas or theme for your own show on K-Pop Connection to kpop@kbs.co.kr ( with heading : DJ for a Day Contest)
Remember to include your phone numbers.

Here's the message from the KBS World Radio website:

Hey K-Poppers! It’s hard to believe, but KPOP Connection is turning  TWO years old on November 12th!!
Last year, KBS World Radio invited Serene from Malaysia, Steven from Malaysia/US and Paul from the US to co-host the show with Sarah Jun and Chris Dykas. It was such a success that we’ve decided to hold the “DJ for a Day” contest again! Like last year, we’ll hold a week of special shows and contests. From November 10th-12th, Young Kim and Sarah will co-host the show with one of you listeners!

So, if you would love the chance to sit down and host KPOP Connection here at our KBS studios in Seoul, Korea, enter the contest!All you have to do is email us at kpop@kbs.co.kr with your idea for a show (for example, last year Serene did a show on her top Korean film picks and songs from their OSTs, Steven did a show on Korean songs that were meaningful to him and Paul did a show on noraebang songs). Those who send in the best ideas will be brought to Korea to guest DJ for the day!"

**If a listener outside Korea is chosen, KBS World will provide airfare and accommodation**

Source http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/entertainment/enter_bbs_read.htm?No=67200

My Wish List – Andong Part 7

Here’s a list of the places I’d like to visit if I ever revisit Andong. It’s a convenient base to explore the following which are outside the city proper.

1. Bongjeong-sa

The tourist brochure claims that this temple has the oldest wooden structure in Korea in its Geungnakjeon ( Paradise Hall). Curious as well about the unique wall painting style here called dancheong. Apparently the priest who founded this temple folded a paper crane, cast it to the winds and decided to set up a new temple at the site where the crane landed.

Quaint legend aside, my main reason for wanting to visit this place is to check out Yeongsan-am, a nearby hermitage. It was part of the shooting location for a film that continues to intrigue me: “Why Did Bodhidharma Go To The East?” A climb up Cheongdeunsan (574 m), the hill behind this temple, would also be nice.

Travel Tip: Take local Bus No. 51 which runs every 1½ hours from the front of Andong City Hall to Bongjeong-sa (16 km north-west of Andong)

2. Dosan Seowon

This Confucian school is probably more famous than the Byeongsan Seowon ( see blog dated  Sept 18) and it’s reputed to be so beautiful that many film directors come here to shoot historical dramas like “Painter of the Wind”. The famous scholar, Yi Toe-gye whose face appears on the 1000-won note, established this academy in 1557. For a few hundred years, it was the most prestigious school in the land – the ancient equivalent of the SKY universities that modern Korean youths aspire to enter. Wonder if the Confucian students of the past had a more stressful time than their peers nowadays.

Travel Tip: Bus No 67 from Andong City Hall ( but do confirm with the bus driver as some don’t go all the way to the seowon. You’d need to walk the extra 2 km if that’s the case but the Lonely Planet assures readers of a pleasant jaunt.

3. Cheongnyang-san Provincial Park

Cheongnyang-san lends its name to three places actually – the mountain ( 870 m ), the provincial park, and the biggest temple here. According to the Lonely Planet, there are “ eleven other scenic peaks, eight caves and a waterfall…. The temple (sits) in a steep valley below the cliffs….The park boasts some spectacular views with tracks wandering along cliff precipices.” Sounds promising to me. I’d check into a minbak near the entrance to the park, stay overnight and explore the different trails as far as my legs and nerve will allow.

Travel Tip: The same bus ( No. 67) that goes to Dosan Seowon will continue its journey to the park entrance ( it plies this route every hour; trip takes about 1 hour and 15 mins).

4. Ginkgo tree at Yonggye-ri

Ironically this enormous tree is so close to the Jirye Art Village and yet I don’t think there’s a direct route to it. The literature claims that 14 people would be needed to encircle this tree which is 37 meters tall and has a diameter of 16 meters at its base. Like JAV, it was almost destroyed by the plans to build the Imha Dam but was successfully transplanted to its new home at the southern bank.
Travel Tip: Take Bus No 28 from Andong & get off at the Giran bus stop. After that, it looks like a loooong walk to find this tree. On second thought, hire a car.

5. Buyongdae
I first saw the high cliff of Buyongdae from a strip of sandy beach at Hahoe Village. Next time, I’d like to head straight to this place to view the village from this vantage point. A perfect time to visit would be when the villagers hold their Seonyu Julbulnori ( in October) when ropes of inflammable material are stretched across the river between Hahoe and Buyongdae for a special kind of fireworks show. There are also three buildings here to visit: Hwacheon Seowon, Ogyeonjeong-sa and Gyeomamjeong-sa.

Travel Tip: Get a car. Drive past the entrance to Hahoe Village, pass the Puncheon Agricultural Co-operative and then turn left at the Doyang three-way junction, to go across the Gwangduk-gyo ( Bridge). Follow the road that goes to the left.

For more info on bus schedules to the sights around Andong, please click here.
Source of Photos: KNTO website
Dosan Seowon http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=312772
Bongjeongsa  http://bongjeongsa2.templevill.com/intro/bojeongsa.swf
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=312775

Andong Hanji – Andong Part 6

It’s late in the day and we’re getting a little tired. But there’s one last stop on our day tour of Andong before our return to Jirye Art Village. The SUV rolls up in front of a nondescript building. It’s only when we’re taken inside that we realize we’ve been given an unexpected bonus –an inside look within  a traditional paper factory, Andong Hanji. Our sense of wonder returns as our  guide here explains to us Hanji ( paper)  is made.

The bark from mulberry bushes is processed to produce the famous Andong hanji. The inner white pulp of the bark is the most valued part. The water softened pulp can then be processed either by hand or machine. A gluey extract from the mallow plant is then used to hold the fibres together. Most impressed with women workers here who have to strip off with their bare fingers the papers which are dried almost instantly on very hot flat  ‘ironing boards’.  

The hanji, which varies considerably in thickness, colour and texture, can be used as calligraphy paper, print material for Confucian scholars, documents for official matters, coverings for walls and floors ( vegetable oil is applied for the yellow paper used on floors). The exhibition room also is a revelation – there’s an amazing range of products made from hanji, including dolls, lanterns, clothes & furniture.

Those who love gift wrapping, scrap booking or  doing paper crafts like origami, be forewarned – you can spend a long time and a lot of won at the hanji shop here! If you do have time to spare, you can take part in hands-on activities to make traditional masks, hats or books. The factory cum showroom is near the entrance of Hahoe Village so it’s worth checking out before or after your visit to the village.

Photo credits and  Links: KNTO website 
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=805345
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=309610

Hahoe Mask Museum – Andong Part 5

Autumn or fall is usually a great time to visit SK as there are many festivals celebrated in the harvest season. Unfortunately that’s not turning out to be the case this year. Call them party poopers or responsible leaders but the Korean officials or organizers don’t seem to be taking any chances and have been cancelling festivals, no thanks to the H1N1 scare. The latest victim of this trend in 2009 is the International Mask Dance Festival which Andong hosts each October.

The people of Hahoe are probably the most disappointed as their village is home to Major Intangible Cultural Asset No. 69: Hahoe Byeolsingut Talnori ( masked play). It has many functions: to entertain, appease the gods, pray for good harvests, exorcise evil spirits and to mock corrupt officials. Even if there aren’t many tourists to entertain this time, perhaps the masked performers could still perform the talnori to pray that the H1N1 scare will die down rapidly. Or it could satirize the tug of war between KNTO whose efforts to draw more tourists to Korea have been frustrated by the government which has been cancelling one festival after another.

If you’re determined to visit Andong this fall, you can find some consolation in the the Hahoe Mask Museum ( Hahoe-domg Tal). Its quite comprehensive collection has masks from around the world include fierce visages from Papua New Guinea, earthy ones from the African continent and ornately decorated ones from Venice. At least you can see here the wide range of Korean masks used in their folk dances and drama. You can also buy reproductions of masks at the museum gift shop. More explanatory notes in English would’ve been good but I guess the curators preferred to let the masks do the talking.

Source: KNTO webpage http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/GK/cms_list_3157.jsp?cid=682664

Fun & Games at Hahoe Maeul, Andong – Part 4

A dramatic avenue flanked on both sides by tall ginkgo trees leads from the parking lot to the village. There are more ginkgo trees with impressive heights within the village and in autumn they are a splendid sight. More busy taking photos of these than of the houses or other attractions in the village.

However, can’t resist taking a few shots at the Minsok-nori Park which has the highest swing I’ve ever seen. Certainly not something for toddlers and even high enough to give some ajummas vertigo.

Traditional games in Korea seem to favour the bold and the athletic. Even the see-saw here seems to be more a game for adults.

On the side facing the Buyongdae cliff, there’s a lovely stretch of sandy beach with a thin strip of pine trees as wind-breaker. There’s a special tradition called “Seonyu julbulnori” held every October here. A long knotted rope is hung across the river between the cliff and the beach and at intervals, some spectacular fireworks within each knot are ignited. At least, that’s what I think the notes in my tourist brochure means. Here’s the verbatim extract:

“It is a fire game to explode the fire at every knot. When fire knot in between Mansongjeong and Buyongdae in Hahoe maeul across the river is tied and lit, fire is exploded at every knot and fire on knots fall down and is co-ordinated with egg fire that creates magnificent view.” Go figure.

Link to video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-lB-0fFyto

Hahoe Maeul, Andong – Part 3

One can understand why Queen Elizabeth and millions of others have visited this place. 24 km west of Andong, Hahoe Village is nestled within the snug embrace of the Nakdong-gang (river), hence its name which means “Stream Winds”. Surrounded by the river on three sides, it’s the ideal place for agricultural activity unless the water levels rise suddenly. Wonder if the good people of Hahoe ever have the problem of flooding in summer.

In fact, the river and mountains that encircle the village have protected it from possible invasions. Hahoe is also special as a living traditional village; unlike the Korean Folk Village near Seoul which is a mere reproduction, Hahoe Maeul is the real deal. It’s more than 600 years old, has about 130 traditional houses here and many buildings are kept as they were during the Joseon Dynasty. The architecture of these houses belonging to aristocrats or farmers is all the more interesting because it’s a living open-air museum with 176 families still living and working there.

There are many minbaks offering homestay here so it’s a great place to stay a few days to soak in the rustic scenes and slow pace of life. Then you would have ample time to look over the low stone walls into the neighbouring houses which are still occupied – perhaps by some descendant of the Ryu clan that presides over this small community.

Links & credits:
http://www.tourandong.com/english/coding/sub1/sub1.asp

Snail Restroom in Andong – Part 2

On our second day at Jirye Art Village, we clamber into Mr Kim’s seven- seater SUV  and head off towards a handsome Confucian Academy ( seowon). There are two seowons in the outlying area near Andong.

Dosan Seowon, about 28 km north of Andong is the more famous school as those who aspired to become high officials in the government would study here and the entrance exams for would-be civil servants were held here. It also happens to be a favourite location for outdoor scenes for TV dramas like Painter of the Wind.

However, today, we’re visiting the other seowon, Byeongsan Seowon, west of Andong and just beside the river. The elevated pavilion, Mandae-ru, that overlooks the broad river is quite large and has impressive beams and columns.

The spaces between the smooth columns look like some folding screen – each with a slightly different scene. How on earth did the ancient scholars manage to concentrate on their studies with so much distracting beauty outdoors?

The steps leading up to this study pavilion are carved out of single logs without benefit of handrails so visitors with unsteady legs or a poor sense of balance may need a helping hand.

Check out the Dalpaeng-i Duitgan(snail restroom) - It's traditional hwajangshil which is  a curious snail shaped structure made of mud-stone walls with a curved entrance and passageway instead of the usual door. In other seowons, such restrooms were built from bamboo trees so luckily there's one at least made of longer-lasting stuff. It's also important enough to be ranked as historical monument No 206. Would enter  to see what the end looks like but not sure if someone is using it at the moment.

Links & sources of pics: http://www.byeongsan.net/english/sub1/sub2.asp
http://www.tourandong.com/english/coding/main.asp
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=313046

Andong – Part 1

Gyeongsangbuk-do ( Province) seems to have more than its fair share of attractions. There’s Gyeongju, the old capital of the Shilla Kingdom, Juwangsan Provincial Park, and Ulleung-do. ( More on some of these places in future postings). And of course, there’s Andong, so proud of its five-thousand year history that it calls itself “the birthplace of Korean traditional culture”.

But as the Lonely Planet points out, there really isn’t much to see in Andong city itself; most of the attractions are on the outskirts so visitors are better off staying in Hahoe Village or Jirye Art Village and making them bases for day-trips around Andong. But it really helps to have your own set of wheels to get around from one historical relic to another cultural attraction. I am lucky that Mr Kim Won-gil shows his guests some of the more important sights in his trusty SUV before we spend the night at JAV.

Our first stop is Sinse-dong Chilcheung Jeontap, a seven -storey brick pagoda, the oldest and biggest in the country. It’s at the eastern edge of the main town beside the railway line & near the Andong Dam. Built during the Shilla Period, it is 17 m tall with a circumference of 7.5 m. Unfortunately, the top part has been damaged but otherwise, it seems to be withstanding the ravages of time quite well.

Next, we visit the traditional home of another aristocratic family ( the Lee or Yi clan) which is just a stone’s throw away from the pagoda. I wonder how the ancestors of the present owners would feel if they know their once- unimpeded view of the river is now blocked by the elevated railway line running parallel to their home. Although there is an old caretaker, there doesn’t seem to be anyone else living there so the home has a forlorn air.

Behind one of its quarters, there’s a slender tree with some ripe fruits already on the ground. I pick one up and sniff its sweet fragrance and in love with its scent, carry it away like some posy. Later, I learn that it’s quince or mo-kwa and delighted to find there’s also a quince tree in JAV. Koreans use it to make tea - haven't tried it yet but can imagine it tastes delicious.

Source of pics: KNTO website

A Little Night Music at Jirye Art Village - Part 5

There’s a distinct chill in this autumn evening but the guests of JAV on the 24th October, 2005 are quite warm and ruddy-cheeked in the Ji-seon-sa-dang, formerly a Confucian schoolroom. This is partly because the heater’s on and we’re seated on cushions around a low table with teacups, fruits and snacks and largely because we’re filling each other’s cups with Andong soju ( rice wine with an unbelievable 45% alcohol content!), thanks to our generous host.

With our spirits mellowed and inhibitions loosened courtesy of the potent soju, we take turns to sing or suggest songs for others to hum or sing along. The French guests present Autumn Leaves & La Vien En Rose. Mr Kim does a wonderful imitation of the flute and we’re treated to one of his own compositions. It’s a privilege to hear the pansori singer, another guest, perform the Jindo arirang. Other Koreans join in and I marvel at their voices. “Oh yes,” Dave from Jeonju nods in jest, “ we get a lot of training in the noraebang!”

My turn to stand and deliver. Am completely intimidated by all these people with well-endowed lungs and natural singing ability. I don’t even sing in the bathroom and any lyric flies out of my head. To salvage national pride and as I owe Mr Kim a song, here’s my belated contribution to the party.

JIRYE ART VILLAGE

24 October, 2005

( dedicated to Kim Won-gil )


Here silence is a canvas -
Each paints with
A different palette.

Nature's brushstrokes
Are delicate –
Wind through leaves, bird song.

The resident pup, though,
Punctuates ( or punctures)
The canvas with sharp yaps.

Baby’s cries are highlights
Completing
A family portrait.

The dramatic strokes of
Pansori singer and drummer
Are masterly and deft.

Fragile notes from our
Host’s mouth flute
Harmonise with the calm.

French songs and soju cups
Clinking lead to strange speech
Heard only in dreams.


Sources of pics:
1. Andong soju_bottle http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SH/SH_EN_6_3_2_4.js
2. Soju glasses http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/culturenlife/culturenlife_newworlds_detail.htm?No=16

How did Yiruma Get Mixed Up in Twilight?

Rumour had it that this piece was featured in the movie, Twilight. Wrong. Still, whether or not you're a fan of the film based on Stephanie Meyer's books, you can enjoy the music here.
For more about this pianist-composer from South Korea, click here.

Jirye Art Village – Part 4

Don’t think I’ve ever slept in any place so old before. Quick calculation – 342 years to be exact. I’m spending two glorious nights here at the Jirye Art Village. My room was probably a store-room in the old days but now it’s converted into comfortable rooms.

Love the stark simplicity of my tiny room. Floor covered with yellow, oiled hanji; walls plastered with white paper. Zero furniture here. Just a thin “yo” (mattress) folded alongside thick blankets and pillows; some hooks to hang my coat. The only 21st century thing is the light switch. Location’s great as well. Near the dining-room but away from the washrooms. Best of all, a room with two views – of the dam and the hillside. There are actually 14 guestrooms available for tourists. I paid 20,000 won for two nights’ stay and 24,000 won for two breakfasts and two dinners. ( 2005 prices)

A bell summons us to meals in the cosy dining-room. Breakfast is traditional fare - rice with fish, mushrooms and yummy omelettes. Other memorable meals by Mrs Kim  include Andong chicken stew ( dak-jjim) and Song-i mushrooms steeped in gochujang.

Source of photos: KNTO website

KBS World Radio – 2nd Anniversary DJ for a Day Contest

Ø Do you fantasize about being a DJ for a K-pop show?
Ø Do you like listening to and talking ( in fluent English) about K-pop songs?
Ø Do you have great ideas to pitch to the producer and hosts of K-Pop Connection?
Ø Can you be reasonably comfortable in front of the mic?
Ø Do you have an international passport with 6 months validity?
Ø Are you old enough to travel unaccompanied?
Ø Can you be in Seoul before the 10th of November to record the show if you’re chosen?

If you are and you can and you do, send your ideas or theme for your own show on K-Pop Connection to kpop@kbs.co.kr ( with heading : DJ for a Day Contest)
Remember to include your phone numbers.

Deadline : 4th October, 2009.


**If a listener outside Korea is chosen, KBS World will provide airfare and accommodation**

For more information, click here.

Source http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/entertainment/enter_bbs_read.htm?No=67200

Exploring Jirye Art Village – Part 3

The Jirye Art Village, a cluster of about 12 wooden buildings, is perched on a shoulder of the Yong-ji Mountain overlooking what used to be the Yesu River but is now part of the Imhaho (Dam). It’s hard to believe that I’m going to be sleeping in something that was erected in 1663.

But am more impressed with the present views than history. Sitting beside my door to my ondol room, I can admire at leisure other traditional houses across the small courtyard. Looking up towards the peak, I spot a marvelous ancient pine standing like some guardian on watch.

Pic on right: see that pink-walled building in the bottom left hand corner of the pic? That was my room for two nights.

Even more thrilled when Mr Kim, my host, rips off the mosquito netting, with a dramatic flourish, from the window and pushes the window screens fully apart to reveal great views of the waters below. With the lake on one side and hills on the other, who could ask for more?

Other discoveries: besides the regal pine, there are other trees here - lovely maples, ginkgo, persimmons ripening on bare branches, a fragrant quince and even a blackberry bush.

Photo on left: Another view of my room in the background, with ginkgo, persimmon and maple trees in foreground.

Also: family tumulis of the Kim clan, a organic vegetable patch, an ancestral shrine, a Confucian schoolhouse, and touches of modernity – a communal bathhouse with piped hot water for showers and a boat beside a jetty ( can one take the boat from Andong to JAV?)