Saturday, February 27, 2010

An Informal Temple Stay, Naesosa Part 4


Love the way the ancient pine tree frames the main temple of Naesosa  ( Dae-Ungbojeon ).
What's distinctive about this building is that it was originally built without a single nail.

I love informal temple stays - first of all, most of the temples are usually situated away from the noise and pollution of cities and well-preserved in well-maintained national or provincial parks.  I can stay on the temple grounds, partake of healthy vegetarian meals, soak in the peaceful atmosphere of the temple as well as the wider surroundings which are usually pristine pieces of nature without having to follow a regimented schedule of marathon meditation sessions. Of course, I'm obliged to wake up before dawn to pay my respects to Buddha but I don't mind because it forces me to sleep earlier.

Fine  example of wooden carvings of lotus and chrysanthemum flowers on the flower Salmun ( doors).There are eight such doors on the front facade of the Dae-ung-bojeon.

Another plus of staying in the temple is that one can admire  the craftsmanship of temple architecture at a leisurely pace - something one can't do if one were to join a tour group or visit the temple as a rushed day trip. Moreover, you can admire the beauty of the temple surroundings in its different moods throughout the day - what's it like in the darkness before dawn? How does it look under the mid-day sun? Does it have the same atmosphere at twilight?


Die-hards of course may elect to stay longer to witness the changing of the seasons. In spring, Naesosa may not have that  many cherry trees but the ones that I saw were very pretty indeed. Perhaps they were even more attractive because there weren't too many of them on the temple grounds.


If you prefer to visit in autumn, the maple trees on this avenue leading to the temple are a charming sight as well. Winter is another evocative season when the snow-clad temple looks like the perfect setting for  inspiring Zen poems.



Another thing I like to check out in the temples in Korea is the water. There's something primeval whenever one sits around a bonfire and there's a similar feeling each time I quench my thirst with the spring waters of each temple. To drink, see and hear the cool waters trickling down the stone basins is a simple soothing pleasure one can never tire of during temple stays.


Was mentally rubbing my hands in glee when I first saw the sizeable pavilion housing the Dharma musical instruments as I thought I had the chance to listen to the monks doing their fabulous thing on the drums. But I was disappointed to find a watered-down version in Naesosa - not the same magical sounds that I'd heard in Baekdam-sa or Gap-sa or even Songgwang-sa. Maybe my timing was off for that night. I've found that different temples seem to have different approaches to the Dharma instruments.


The bronze bell, in Beomjonggakwas made during the Goryeo period. Three images of Buddha, called Samjonsang are engraved on it.

The original name of Naeso-sa was Sorae -sa , meaning "a place which one revisits to be reborn". It was enough for me to be rejuvenated during my brief temple sojourn. Check  into a temple without being in a group and even if ( or perhaps because ) you may not spend too much chatting with others, the peace and solitude may prove to be the perfect antidote to the stresses of city life. Try it and discover it for yourself.

sources:


Friday, February 26, 2010

Getting to Naesosa, Part 3


Getting there - take the bus to Buan Bus Terminal and then board the bus which goes around  Byeonsan-bando ( services are between 6 30 am and 830 am every 20 -30 minutes; trip to Naesosa takes about 50 minutes)


Get off at the Naesosa bus stop and walk past the usual row of shops, sikdangs ( restaurants) and minbaks to reach the fir-lined entrance to Naesosa.


The fir-tree avenue gives way to a broader path flanked by cherry and maple trees. BTW, this path was featured in one episode of Daejanggeum when the heroine played by Lee Young-Ae returned to the palace after taking care of a nanny to the royal family. The pond where the lead character, Janggeum sits mournfully throwing pebbles into the water after a tiff with her mentor, can be found on one side of this lane.


Fortunately for me, there was ample room for me to stay overnight in the temple, provided of course, that I followed their basic rules. In summer, I suspect, it would be difficult for single travellers to stay here as Naesosa is popular with groups who come for summer camps.

sources:
http://www.cha.go.kr/servlet/Download?fid=TWpBPQ==&tname=Y2hndWlkZQ==

http://search.korea.net:8080/intro_korea2008/travel/pdf/01_19.pdf

Thursday, February 25, 2010

Templestay in Naesosa, Part 2

Stayed one night in Naesosa when I visited the place in spring of 2007 so can't claim to have had the usual temple stay( such as the tea ceremony, meditation sessions or 108 prostrations)  but I did wake up around 4 30 am for the temple ceremony and ate vegetarian meals. Funny though, the thing that sticks in my mind about the brief stay is hanging out my laundry to dry on the lines. Can't explain why I remember that humdrum chore.

Would be nice to experience templestay in winter, though. Can't go anywhere else so one might as well stay indoors to concentrate on meditation, contemplation or reflection.

Wednesday, February 24, 2010

On the Daejanggeum Trail - Naesosa Part 1

Naeso-sa is one of the more easily accessible temples in Korea so I guess that's why there were busloads of school children and local tourists trooping to it when I visited Byeonsan-bando ( Peninsula) in the spring of 2007. I wondered how many of them were making their way there as devotees of the hugely popular TV drama, Daejanggeum or Jewel of the Palace starring Lee Young-Ae. The place is also a popular location for shooting outdoor scenes for other TV dramas such as Seodongyo, Lovers in Prague and Damo.





sources:
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/CU/CU_EN_8_5_1_6.jsp

Tuesday, February 23, 2010

To Go OR Not To Go In Winter - Letter for Christina

A reader from Malaysia who's never experienced winter wants to know if it's a good time to visit Korea. Here's my extended reply:

source: Yonhap News - http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/news/news_photo_detail.htm?No=14528

Dear Christina,
Here's my two cents on whether or not to visit Korea in winter. First, let me play devil's advocate and list some reasons why it may not be the best time to go.

1. It's too freaking cold to go out especially if you're from a sunny clime unless of course you're a tougher cookie than I am

2. Your travel plans may be hampered by snowstorms which have delayed flights, cancelled ferries and slowed down trains and buses.

3. You won't have so many hours of daylight to travel around to enjoy the sights

4. You'll blow your travel budget on cups of hot coffee or soups to keep yourself warm

5. Your complexion will suffer because of the extreme dry air but you can't pack a full bottle of face cream in a post 9-11 world with tighter airport security

Now, here are some reasons why winter's a good time to travel to Korea:

1. It's a great place to learn skiing. I read somewhere that even Russians, who obviously have more snow, prefer to ski in Korea because of the wonderful facilities.

2. You can take part in many winter festivals which seem to be a great deal of fun for both the participants and observers.

3.  I like to ask Koreans that I met about their favourite season and quite a number cite winter as their preferred time of year.Why? Answers range from the chance to get decked out in winter woolies, to the outdoor sports to one person's reply which is the most intriguing, " I love the smell of winter". Go to check out for yourself why so many would fall in love with this season.

So, Christina, if you've got your heart set on experiencing winter, here are a few humble suggestions from a not-so-seasoned traveller ( when it comes to winter, that is!):

a. travel in a tour group instead of braving it as a solo traveller. That way, the burden of ensuring you're warm and safe falls on the shoulders of the experienced Korean tour guide who should know how to deal with delays

b. Layer, layer, layer - instead of packing four winter jackets into your luggage, just wear layers. The same goes for your feet and legs. Ask around before investing in a suitable pair of shoes.

c. head straight for the supermarket as soon as you touch down in Korea to look for handy hand-warmers and naeboks. For an article on naeboks, click here.

d. carry a thermos flask so you can have your own coffee/ tea/ hot beverage wherever you go.

e. learn the basic Korean words  such as snow storm, blizzard, minus 40 temperatures, etc. to listen out for weather forecasts on the local telly or radio

Cheers and happy travelling!
ajumma

Monday, February 22, 2010

In The Mood For A Song In Three Four Time

Listening to this is like drinking cool spring water and I don't mean your usual Evian or Perrier. The female half of Clazziquai, Lee Horan is doing her own thing with drummer/guitarist Gur Jeong and bassist/guitarist Justin Kim. Together, they're IBADI, using apparently a traditional Korean word for 'celebration'.

Here are two version of "Secret Waltz" with Lee Seung Yuel (another great voice) from Ibadi's mini-album, "Songs for Ophelia".



The sound quality is better on this MV. Haven't found the English lyrics to this number but will post as soon as possible. Meanwhile, just sit back, kick off your shoes and enjoy. For more on Ibadi, click here.



sources:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d9Kig9RZrfc&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JW-fVdVosQQ&feature=related

http://www.last.fm/music/Ibadi/+images/5482881
http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/entertainment/enter_artists_detail.htm?No=104185

Sunday, February 21, 2010

Where's The Pollack?

Two clichés in K drama: First, a fierce ajumma hits a young upstart with the wooden sticks used to beat or flatten the laundry OR second, she uses a stick-like object which turns out to be pollack, a wind-dried fish popular in Korea. Unfortunately, over-fishing and over-eating of even the young pollack may have driven this fish to the edge of extinction so ajummas inclined to whack the living daylights out of someone may be hard-pressed to look for a handy pollack. ( The info for the graph created below was taken from the JoongAng Daily. )


Alarmed by this trend, the East Sea Fisheries Institute of the National Fisheries Research and Development Center has offered ten times the market rate for anyone who brings in a live pollack so that the experts there can retrieve the eggs for a rehabilitation program. Turns out it isn’t so easy to breed pollack in captivity. So the alternative has been to collect eggs from freshly –caught pollack.


Hopefully they’ll find a way of reversing the trend in the declining pollack population so that future generations of Koreans and tourists can enjoy pollack soup and fiery ajummas won’t lack dried-up pollacks whenever they feel like whacking someone.

"This fish is called myeongtae when they are alive in the sea, but they are called saengtae when they are caught. They are named dongtae when frozen and when they are hung and dried here, they are finally called hwangtae. Since they are string-skewered through their noses, they are called hwangtae kodari." ( quote from KBS World Radio article, "Discover Inje's Treasure In the Winter Season")

For KBS World Radio feature article on pollack, click here.
http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2916198

Saturday, February 20, 2010

Letter to a Nun In Naksan-sa, Part 5

To A Nun I Met in Naksan-sa,

There I was , stopping outside Hong-ryeong-am in the autumn of 2004, feeling a little more than disappointed and cheated because the sunrise I had been expecting at Uisangdae didn’t materialize. And there you were, apparently just having finished your morning meditations or morning chores with a little time to spare before your next round of chants and prostrations. Can’t remember how we started chatting, if one can even call it that as my Korean was just as limited as your English. But it’s amazing how far a little goodwill and a dictionary can take us.

Despite the language barrier, I think somehow we managed to work out that we shared the same birth year and I think I managed to ask you rather impertinently why you chose to be a nun. You smiled enigmatically ( or was it awkwardly?) because you didn’t want or know how to respond to my presumptuous question.

Our stilted conversation was punctuated by quiet long looks out to sea. My irritation was giving way to your calming smile and soon it was time for you to return to your temple routine. So I was more than a little surprised when you gestured for me to wait as you disappeared and reappeared with a bag of rice cakes and sweets which you put into my hands. My jaw dropped because I was more accustomed to seeing people giving things to Buddhist monks and nuns. Yet there you were - someone who had obviously given up so much, giving up even more to a stranger.

Hurriedly I rifled through my day backpack for something to reciprocate but my main supply of snacks was in the minbak where I’d left my main bag. You smiled reassuringly as if to say it didn’t matter, that you weren’t expecting anything, that you were simply happy to give me a parting present. Some people may think – how embarrassing to be at the receiving end and to accept things from a nun when I should be giving something to you. But it felt like a blessing because your kindness and generosity of spirit more than made up for the sunrise I had missed. Gamsa-hamnida.

Sincerely,

Ajumma

Friday, February 19, 2010

Uneasy on Naksan Beach, Naksan Part 5



Summer shots of Naksan Beach are rather scary. I can just imagine it - The massive crowds in and out of the water. Territorial disputes over space to spread one’s beach towel on the sand. Public humiliation of exposing one’s cellulite in skimpy summer shorts. The long queues to rent a beach umbrella or to buy an ice lolly. But when I find myself on Naksan Beach in autumn, the emptiness is also a little intimidating though of a different sort.


The winds are chilly with a hint of winter and the walk down the empty beach is a little discomfiting as one can’t hide in a crowd here in this season. I feel like a hermit crab without my shell as I’m about the only one on the beach, exposed to the eyes of the locals who must be wondering who this crazy tourist is to be wandering alone on the shoreline.


The ajummas in the sikdangs ( restaurants) who are usually kept busy serving raw fish ( saeng-seon hoe – pronounced “hwey”) are sitting around, chatting or watching TV drama serials. I’m hardly likely to venture into any of these eateries for these reasons 1.I’m not into “ raw squid, flatfish, sea cucumber, abalone, sea urchin or croaker” ( quoting from the Yangyang Travel Guide) 2. I’m on a shoestring budget 3. As a solo traveler, I’m not likely to order an expensive seafood meal usually served to groups (from at least 50,000 to 70,000 won, 2004 prices)

So what else is there to do in Naksan in this low season? I should’ve checked out the Hoe Centre at the base of the cliff where Uisang-dae is perched just to see how Koreans prepare their raw seafood dishes. If I had checked the Yangyang guidebook carefully, I would’ve also visited the Naksan Yellow Ochre Fire Kiln ( sauna) to try out its various facilities such as the natural jade room, the sauna with jade-pebbled heated floor and the herbal steam sauna. ( Bus No 9 goes along National Road No. 7 between Yangyang and Sokcho every 20 minutes , get off at Josan)

A note on getting to Naksan: Took a shuttle bus from Osaek Greenyard Hotel, in the southern part of Soraksan. After a short walk past shops selling a wide assortment of dried seafood, I found a bewildering array of minbaks and yeogwans just before the beach. Not too difficult finding a place to stay during autumn though I’m sure available rooms would be hard to come by in summer. Paid 20,000 won for a small room in a minbak ( October, 2004 prices)

sources:
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264622
http://eng.yangyang.go.kr/page/foreign/eng/index.jsp
http://www.korea.net/news/news/newsview.asp?serial_no=20080704010
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Korea_style_raw_fish.jpg

Thursday, February 18, 2010

On Stolen Shoes, Shoe Waffles and Eating Real Shoes

This photo story  from the JoongAng Daily caught my eye only because my friend's Timberland shoes were stolen a few days ago in broad daylight. A shoe thief has been plaguing the neighbourhood and to my surprise, some Koreans have also fallen victim to the same kind of petty criminals. Obviously though, the Korean thief has more exacting tastes as he only went for luxury branded footwear.

JoongAng's caption: Sole Searching

His M.O. also reminded me of a story I'd just heard of Muslims having their shoes stolen outside the mosques. But this guy in Korea operated outside funeral halls where people have to remove their shoes as a mark of respect. He must've had a shoe fetish from the size of his collection seized by the police who eventually caught up with him. Wonder if my friend will be as fortunate as the gentleman in the photo above who has the chance to recover his stolen Pradas, if he can find his own pair amid the thief''s shoe collection which might just rival  that of Imelda Marcos.


Don't put your foot in your mouth - try a Vans shoe waffle instead!

Then in an earlier posting by the same online paper, I spotted this pic featuring waffles in the shape of sneakers as part of a marketing campaign jointly launched by Vans, a sportswear brand and Kia Motors. The "Vans Waffle Tour" will visit different cities in Korea to give away free waffles while promoting Vans' new line of sports shoes and Kia Soul, the new crossover vehicle. Not sure how the shoe-shaped waffles will go down with the locals but here's a German guy,  Werner Herzog, who had to eat his shoes literally when he lost a wager. I stumbled upon this while checking out the expression, "I'll eat my shoes" ( to express complete confidence about something that one thinks is highly unlikely to happen.) For the full story, click here.



Rising From The Ashes, Naksan-sa Part 4

I visited Naksan-sa during my 2004 visit to Korea in autumn and then  in April, 2005, I was dismayed to hear that the temple had fallen victim to a forest fire. No thanks to dry and strong winds, it had spread and destroyed most of the temple buildings along with many important artefacts such as a 15th century bronze bell.

A sorry sight - Naksan-sa after the 2005 fire.

It wasn’t the first time the temple had been ravaged by the flames. Naksan-sa had been burnt down before when the Mongol invaders over-ran the country in the 13th century. Its reconstruction took place at different times during the 15th and 17th centuries under the Joseon kings. Again, during the Korean War of 1950-53, it was razed to the ground and rebuilt in late 1953. In its most recent reincarnation, Naksan-sa has been restored within four years after the 2005 disaster like the legendary phoenix rising from the ashes.

Reconstruction work on the temple flooring

It’s a remarkable story of resilience and community effort. In his speech at the completion ceremony on October 12, 2009, the abbot of Naksan-sa said: “I bow my head and humbly thank all the monks and nuns of the Jogye Order, Buddhist devotees, and Korean citizens for helping in the difficult four-year restoration process. We will do our best to continue in the restoration to return Naksansa Temple to the hearts of the Korean people. It is important to not only restore the buildings, but also the 1000-year cultural heritage and the spirit of the ancestors.”

Even the surrounding walls get a new lease on life

A local museum now houses a violin and cello which were built from wood that survived the fire on the temple grounds. Check out the flash presentation which is based on the story of the temple. Aside from the inspiring morality tale about endurance and fortitude, one wonders if measures are in place to protect such historic and religious buildings from similar fires. For another story of a temple which was also a fire victim, click here.

Reconstruction Project Completed by 2009!

Sources

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naksansa#2005_fire_and_reconstruction
http://www.buddhapia.com/buddhapi/eng/temple/korexp/html/bu11.html
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=312871
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=309343
http://english.triptokorea.com/english/viewtopic.php?t=5925
http://eng.koreatemple.net/travel/view_temple.asp?temple_id=32
http://www.koreanbuddhism.net/jokb/press/view.asp?article_seq=5865&page=1&search_key=&search_value=
http://www.knto.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264186&nearBy=site&
http://www.kimsch.net/flash/dream-en.swf
http://www.land.go.kr/gTra.do?tra=enudestination&cid=3204
http://german.visitkorea.or.kr/ger/SI/SI_GE_3_1_1_2.jsp?cid=335521

Wednesday, February 17, 2010

A Very Short Checklist to Things to Look Out For, Naksan-sa Part 3

Here's a brief list of things to look out for when you're visiting Naksan-sa in Gangwon-do:


1. Translation is such a tricky business – couldn’t help raising my eyebrows when I first saw Wontongbojeon of Naksan-sa translated as “Hall of Complete Penetration”. Ahem. How about “Hall of Profound Insight”? or “Hall of Thorough Enlightenment”? Not quite the same, is it?

2. The Arched Gate was built the same year as the pagoda. Legend has it that 26 stones, each contributed by the magistrates of the 26 towns in the area made up the main building materials.


3. Naksan –sa is home to National Treasure No 499. It’s a 6.2 metre- high, 7-storey pagoda (Chilcheung Seoktap ) built in 1467. A Buddhist rosary and magic beads are reputed to be stored within this Goryeo- style pagoda with a distinctive single square base with 24 stone lotus petals. For comparisons with a Shilla style pagoda, click here.


4. According to another legend, a red lotus blossomed in the sea while Uisang, the founder of Naksan-sa conducted his week-long prayers. Eventually Hongryeon-am ( “Red Lotus Hermitage”) was built near the cave he used for his meditation- by- the -ocean sessions.


I was poking my head into the tiny hermitage for a quick look around when a kind ajumma, who had just finished her 108 prostrations, lifted up a 10 cm square from the wooden floor to show me the crashing waves beneath. Perhaps it was designed to show the cave where Uisang had meditated or maybe the present-day monks liked to chant to the rhythm of the waves.

Sources
http://www.buddhapia.com/buddhapi/eng/temple/korexp/html/bu11.html
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=312871
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=309343
http://english.triptokorea.com/english/viewtopic.php?t=5925
http://eng.koreatemple.net/travel/view_temple.asp?temple_id=32
http://www.koreanbuddhism.net/jokb/press/view.asp?article_seq=5865&page=1&search_key=&search_value=
http://www.knto.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264186&nearBy=site&
http://www.kimsch.net/flash/dream-en.swf
http://www.land.go.kr/gTra.do?tra=enudestination&cid=3204
http://german.visitkorea.or.kr/ger/SI/SI_GE_3_1_1_2.jsp?cid=335521

Tuesday, February 16, 2010

The Ultimate Compassionate Lady, Naksan-sa Part 2

Let’s start with the vital statistics. He/ She is an immortal but this particular version is 33 years old this year. Weighing 700 tons, he/ she stands 15 meters (49 feet) tall on top of a 2.8- meter ( 9 –foot) pedestal on the grounds of Naksan-sa, facing the East Sea. He / She is made of white granite. His/ Her eyes and mouth are closed in an expression of perfect serenity.

She has many names: Avalokitesvara Bodhisattva (Gwaneumbosal),
Haesugwaneumsang (Bodhisattva of Mercy); she's a central figure in Mahayana Buddhism


Others elsewhere like him/her are shown with four, six or even a thousand hands with eyes in the palms to represent the all-seeing and compassionate nature. Here, though, the left hand bears a vessel with holy water while the right hand is shaped in a meditative mudra. Neither male nor female, Gwaneum-Bosal is, nevertheless, known as the Goddess of Mercy, a.k.a. Haesugwaneumsang ( 해수관음입상, Bodhisattva of Mercy).

Busan sculptor Gwon Jeong-hwan (권정환) takes the credit for this impressive sculpture.

The inspiration to build a temple at Naksan came at a difficult time in Korean history. The Shilla kings were desperately trying to ward off attacks by the Tang Dynasty emperors of China. Grand Master, Uisang Daesa, an emissary of the 30th king of the Shilla Period, had just completed his Buddhist studies in China and was meditating near a cave reputed to be the abode of Gwaneum-bosal. Legend has it that the Bodhisattva instructed him to erect a temple at the same spot. Since then, generations of devotees have been making their way to this temple dedicated to Gwaneum-Bosal to make their pleas for divine assistance known.

Gwanum-bosal can be found on a hillock in the background of this pic.


There are only two other places in Korea where one can pray to Gwanum-bosal: Bori-am in Namhae and Bomun-sa in Ganghwa-do. Busloads of pious ajummas in particular can be seen praying at these temples while Naksan-sa is also a popular spot to welcome the first sunrise of the New Year, whether one follows the Gregorian or Chinese lunar calendar.


The Goddess of Mercy in Bori-am, Namhae


Sourceshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naksansa#2005_fire_and_reconstruction
http://www.buddhapia.com/buddhapi/eng/temple/korexp/html/bu11.html
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=312871
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=309343
http://english.triptokorea.com/english/viewtopic.php?t=5925
http://eng.koreatemple.net/travel/view_temple.asp?temple_id=32
http://www.koreanbuddhism.net/jokb/press/view.asp?article_seq=5865&page=1&search_key=&search_value=http://www.knto.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264186&nearBy=site&http://www.kimsch.net/flash/dream-en.swf
http://www.land.go.kr/gTra.do?tra=enudestination&cid=3204
http://german.visitkorea.or.kr/ger/SI/SI_GE_3_1_1_2.jsp?cid=335521

Monday, February 15, 2010

Waiting for the Sunrise, Naksan-sa Part 1



I thought I did everything by the book – set my alarm clock and wake up early before dawn , find my way from my minbak near Naksan beach and up a hill to Naksan-sa ( temple). Then creep tentatively without benefit of torchlight in the autumnal dark to Uisangdae ( pavilion). Spend at least thirty minutes shivering in the cold and dark, waiting for the famous sunrise and guess what happens?

Nothing.

Above and  below: The sunrise pics which I wanted to take but couldn't

True, the sky lightens and the presence of some Korean tourists who appear a little while after I do, reassure me that I’m in the right place but alas, there are too many clouds obscuring the spectacular dawn which I was hoping to see.

So to console myself, I pay closer attention to the octogonal pavilion itself which is a 1925 reconstruction of a pavilion where the famous monk,Ui-sang used to meditate.



It was also the place that provided inspiration for the Joseon poet, Songgang Jeongcheol. Here’s my reworking of his verse:

After the pear blossoms have fallen,
Mid the cuckoo’s sad laments,
Beyond the hill east of Naksan at Uisangdae,
I rise in the darkness to wait for the dawn.
The brightening clouds are flowers blooming
And the sun’s a precious stone held up by six dragons.
It ascends in majesty from sea to sky and
The whole earth trembles as it rises swiftly,
Brighter than a thousand candles.


With or without the dawn, the Uisangdae's a pretty place with great views of the sea.



sources:
http://www.buddhapia.com/buddhapi/eng/temple/korexp/html/bu11.html
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=312871
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=309343
http://english.triptokorea.com/english/viewtopic.php?t=5925
http://eng.koreatemple.net/travel/view_temple.asp?temple_id=32
http://www.koreanbuddhism.net/jokb/press/view.asp?article_seq=5865&page=1&search_key=&search_value=
http://www.knto.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264186&nearBy=site&
http://www.kimsch.net/flash/dream-en.swf
http://www.land.go.kr/gTra.do?tra=enudestination&cid=3204
http://german.visitkorea.or.kr/ger/SI/SI_GE_3_1_1_2.jsp?cid=335521

Sunday, February 14, 2010

Happy Seollal!


Here's wishing everyone a Happy Seollal, Spring Festival, Lunar New Year and Valentine's Day!

source:
http://holidayyear.com/holidays/korean-new-year.html

Friday, February 12, 2010

Amusing Spoof of VD, Korean and Jap-style

Here's a quick primer on Valentine's Day, White Day and Black Day as celebrated in Korea and Japan from the perspective of Asian Americans. The Koreans and Japanese have the same practices when it comes to VD and WD but BD is the Koreans' own invention. ( I think it's just an excuse to indulge in jjajangmyeon!)

Thanks to aznlifestylestv for posting this on youtube.

Thursday, February 11, 2010

What Tteok-guk Used To Mean

It may be everyday  comfort food for Koreans living abroad  but tteok-guk used to be a big deal when celebrating Seollal. ( It still is? ) Tteok-guk was served to celebrate everyone's collective birthday party. No blowing out of candles on a calorie-laden cream cake but downing of thin slices of rice-cakes swimming in bowls of hot steaming beef broth topped with green onions, egg slices and seaweed. Kids who fancied claiming equality with their older siblings were often conned into wolfing more bowls by teasing relatives.



It's easy to forget that rice wasn't always the staple food at the Korean dinner table. One can easily find packets of pre-sliced garaetteok in any supermarket in Korean these days but in the past, Koreans had to make do with barley, millet or noodles made from buckwheat, arrowroot or sweet potatoes for their daily starch or carbo fix. Bear in mind as well that rice was particularly hard to come by in winter.

Haven't found a website that shows how garaetteok is actually made from the rice flour  ( the rough recipe goes something like this: grind the rice into flour - steam it - roll it out into long sausage-like shapes) but I read somewhere that  it used to take  three days to make. While the shape of garaetteok signifies good health and long life, the white colour denotes purity and cleanliness. It's then cut up into shapes resembling coins to express the wish for prosperity and wealth in the year ahead.




Beef was another rare commodity ( these days, it's just expensive and fraught with political and nationalist overtones - does one buy local beef or imports from the US or Australia? ) so the beef stock for the dish was a really special treat for Koreans of the past. In even earlier times, the soup was made from the stock of pheasant meat or chicken.





Now it's time to 'fess up. I haven't eaten tteok-guk before so I'm going to scout around the Korean restaurants near my home this Seollal period  to see if I can sample the stuff. If that doesn't work out, well I'll just have to google for a recipe and get cracking in the kitchen. All this googling for pics has whetted my appetite and roused my curiosity!

sources:
http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/art/2010/01/153_38384.html
http://yunhee66.wordpress.com/2009/10/10/kalap-di-korean-mart/
http://joonsfamily.com/lofiversion/index.php/t8572-100.html
http://simple.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tteokguk
http://oneforkonespoon.wordpress.com/2009/04/13/tteok-guk-comfort-food-for-kings/
http://www.asianewsnet.net/news.php?id=3621&sec=9

Wednesday, February 10, 2010

Oseam, Baekdamsa Part 4

On my long list of places I'd like to check out in Korea, Oseam may seem a choice as obscure as the actual location of this tiny hermitage in the north-west quarter of Soraksan.


It was built in 644 during Queen Seondeok's reign during the Shilla Dynasty. From what I can gather from the contours of the map, it's at least at least two hours' walk from Baekdamsa ( which is remote in itself, if you don't take the soft option of the shuttle bus).


So why would I want to visit this spot?


First of all, with Gwaneumbong as its backdrop, it promises to be a pretty spot with great views of Soraksan. Next, I'm curious to see how this place inspired Manhae as he spent quite a number of years as a monk who also composed poems here


Next, "Oseam" which means "five year old temple" got its name from a local legend. It tells of a five-year-old boy who, stranded in a remote temple, prays to be reunited with his mother. Some miracles of nature apparently happen and so the temple since then has kept the memory of this boy alive through its name.

Now the story is assured of a little more longevity, thanks to the animated movie by the same name directed by Sung Baek-yeop.

Though it wasn't such the box office as hoped because it was released about the same time as Spirited Away, it won the grand prize for the short films category at the Annecy International Animated Film Festival.


I stumbled upon the DVD at a shop in Incheon International Airport while waiting for my flight home and it was only then that I had heard of the place. Thought it would be a nice Christmas gift for a child but ended up watching it instead. It's a pretty, charming and modest film though I'm not too comfortable with its ending.
Still, it's a home-grown Korean anime which strives to achieve its own distinct voice.

For an interview with the director, click here.

sources:
http://guriguriblog.wordpress.com/2009/02/09/oseam-commentary-translated-in-englis/
http://koreanfilm.org/kfilm03.html#oseam
http://www.themanime.org/viewreview.php?id=513
http://www.anime-planet.com/reviews/a591.html
http://www.answers.com/topic/oseam
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=790281
http://movie.subtitlr.com/subtitle/show/175336
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/HA/content/cms_view_316264.jsp