You Take The High Road; I’ll Take the Low Road, Juwangsan, Part 3

Here are some trails you can follow within the Juwangsan National Park. They appear in order of level of difficulty and scenic interest.

1. The Waterfall Trail ( which I take because I’m a sucker for water features even though I know they aren’t so exciting in autumn; OK, I’ll be honest – the gentle gradient along this walk has a lot to do with my choice as well!)

Daejeonsa - Jeilpokpo ( First Waterfall; 2 km from Ticket Office) – Jeipokpo ( Second Waterfall) – Jesampokpo ( Third Waterfall) – Naewonmaeul ( Artists’ Village)
Comment:

Follow the river upstream and enjoy getting side-tracked when you reach signposts which point to some interesting rock formations. The narrow gorge, site for the first waterfall, has an element of suspense because the walker can’t see what’s ahead. The second pokpo is more dramatic with twin falls taking the plunge. The third is also intriguing as it seems to have carved out a deep pool before retiring in a shallow pool. Naewonmaeul seems to be abandoned or perhaps only comes alive in summer. There’s only a tethered goat here bleating for release.

2. The Caves Route ( which can be combined with the first one)
Daejeonsa – Yeonhwagul ( on the left side of the trail, near a picnic ground) – then further up, on the right side of the trail, Juwangam ( hermitage) – Mujanggul – Juwanggul

Comment:
Somewhere near Juwangam, follow a steel staircase for about 100 m through a narrow gorge to reach a cliff and cave with an adjacent waterfall. Legend has it that King Ju took refuge with his chidren here while hiding from his enemies. Apparently he also died in Juwanggul ( cave).

3. The "I'm No Wimp" Route ( recommended by the Lonely Planet)
“Most visitors just see the waterfalls and caves, but for a more rigorous experience, try hiking up from Daejoensa to Juwangsan, 720 m ( 1 ¼ hours), along the ridge to Kaldeunggogae, 732 m ( 15 minutes) and then down to Hurimaegi ( 50 mins) before following the valley back to Daejeonsa. ( 1 ¾ hours)

Comment:
Time estimates irritate me – I know it means time for the average walker but then, I’m obviously below average as I usually need far longer to reach the said destinations. But seriously, this sounds like a great route and the views from the peak and ridge sound promising.

Sources:
Map http://www.flickr.com/photos/alexzuccarelli/2711311294/sizes/o/
http://juwang.knps.or.kr/eng/info/history.html
http://www.land.go.kr/gTra.do?tra=enudestination&cid=3505
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264150

Walk to Yongmun Pokpo Gapsa – Part 2

Gapsa is too crowded today as there's some celebration going on. So I look instead for Yongmun Falls which is a short walk away from Gapsa. But I’m annoyed with myself as I’ve forgotten to change to sneakers. At least I have my walking stick with me and the company of an ajumma on her way to some hermitage.

She seems to approve of my travelling alone which is unusual because most Koreans that I meet are surprised when I say “Hunja-seo” ( by myself). They’re more accustomed to going out with family or friends. But from my very limited Korean and her occasional gesturing to her crotch with snorts of disgust, I gather she hasn’t had many positive experiences with men.

My companion for the moment tells me that there’s going to be some norae (singing) at the temple later in the day. As if to confirm our bond of single sisterhood, she offers me some biscuits and candy. I try to reciprocate by giving her some of my snacks brought from home. Am glad that I’ve a supply of these in my backpack. Just before she turns onto another path leading to the hermitage, she pauses to light up a particularly stinky cigarette. I wonder if they allow smoking or she’s just relieving stress before she enters the hermitage where she’s probably opted for refuge from the world.

Missing her colourful personality though not her cigarette smoke, I continue my walk towards the pokpo. It’s a relief to be surrounded by greenery, fresh air and a silence that’s only broken by the gurgling stream. Waterfalls or pokpo aren't very active or dramatic in autumn ( dry season) so I brace myself for a vertical trickle. Yongmun, summer or autumn, is still a pretty spot for a picnic. What I didn't expect was the carving of the name on a nearby rock. Wonder how long it took for the sculptor to finish the job. On my way back from Yongmun, come across more ajummas - this time with handbags. Did they pack their kimchi or gimbap in those?

from my travel notes Saturday 22 Oct 2005

Seoraksan, Part 4 - Lessons for the Novice Hiker

Here are the lessons I learnt as a novice hiker while struggling alone on the slopes of Seoraksan:

Lesson No 1: FIND OUT BEFOREHAND ABOUT THE TERRAIN and BE HONEST WITH YOURSELF ABOUT YOUR OWN FITNESS LEVELS!!!

Foolishly I assumed buying a simple map from the Ticketing Office would suffice as a guide for my first hiking attempt. Make the effort to learn enough Korean to ask experienced staff or climbers about the levels of difficulty for the different routes. Bear in mind that the locals have the agility and strength to rival mountain goats so if you’re a novice hiker from the city, it’s best to multiply by three the times and distances they quote you.

I should've started with the Osaek Valley instead of aiming for the waterfall.

Also it’s vital to pay close attention to the contour lines on the maps and don’t underestimate the speed at which you can tire out on the hills. Osaek has “the most direct routes to Daecheongbong” which is the main peak in the national park ( 1,707.9 metres) but I mistakenly thought that aiming for Seorak-pokpo ( waterfall) , situated halfway up the route to the peak was a modest enough goal. According to the map, the climb up to the waterfall would be about one and a half hours. No sweat, right?

Pristine-looking stream but still safer to drink from the spring or yaksu

Lesson No 2: Pack ample water and snacks to fortify your body and spirits when attempting these trails.

What seemed more like three hours later, I was still somewhere on the foot of Daecheongbong with the waterfall still nowhere in sight. Dozens of walkers who had passed me had reassured me that the pokpo was nearby but I decided I had been over-ambitious and turned back, listening dutifully to the demands of my raucous tummy. On my way down the steep trail, I paused to admire a squirrel which hopped onto a log across the path. It seemed unusually still and tense and then the source of its nervousness was clear – a snake under the log. Are there poisonous snakes in Korea?

Lessons No 3, 4 and 5 emerged in rapid succession:

3. Pay attention to where you’re walking

4. Carry a fully-charged mobile phone with direct dialling for the tourist emergency number ( Call 033-1330)

5. Avoid walking alone.

Actually I was never really alone – there were many walkers ahead of me and behind me, climbing up or down and if I had indeed had the misfortune to be bitten by a venomous asp, I would probably just have to endure a few minutes before some hikers would come upon me. I could rest assured that they would be amply equipped to help.

Most of the walkers I encountered looked dressed and armed to the hilt for something closer to an assault on Mount Everest. I envied them their competent-looking boots, pairs of sturdy walking sticks, wind-cheaters, gloves, baseball caps and sun-glasses. They would probably also have a first-aid box handy within their backpacks or at least a mobile phone to link to some mountain rescue operation nearby.

Heck, the Koreans looked so fit and strong, I bet even the halmeonis ( grandmothers) could’ve slung me on their backs and carried me down without much fuss.

source:
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=658326