The Stone Screens of Juwangsan, Part 1

Sometime during the 8th century during a more turbulent time of the Tang Dynasty, revolutionaries or rebels were chasing down King Juwang of China. Legend has it that he sought refuge in Seokpyeongsan, meaning “Stone Screen Mountain” and it’s not hard to see how it came by that name. The poor old king must have felt reassured when he saw the limestone peaks emerging out of the green like some sentinels offering refuge. These days, people running away from urban noise and pollution, continue to seek relief in the place which now goes by the name of Juwangsan.

It is the “only designated national park in the south-eastern region” and as I’m making my way south from Andong, it makes sense to stop by and explore this place a bit. But whether you’re in Andong or Seoul or Busan for that matter, Juwangsan Park is worth the time and effort. Apparently it used to be harder to get here as it’s far from the major cities but new roads have made it easier for motorists and buses to gain access.

The roads have probably been widened since my visit there in 2005 and more of the surrounding rice fields may have given way to the construction of more minbaks, yeogwans or hotels just outside the entrance into the national park. I can understand the temptation to give up the farming life to go into the tourism business – from the sun-dried faces of the halmeonis struggling to sell their persimmons, mushrooms, roasted rice and red peppers at the road-side near the bus terminal, it’s not easy to make a living in rural Korea. But at the same time, I’d be sorry to see those golden rice fields shrink or vanish completely.

It’s way before noon, but as my bus rolls into the bus terminal, I can see that the car park just outside the entrance to the park is already quite crowded with tour buses and cars. Groups of ajummas and ajeosshis clad in red wind-cheaters are sitting cross-legged in circles and picnicking on their kimchi and gimbaps. Just opposite the bus terminal and across the river, I find quite easily a minbak ( family-run guesthouse) with a very clean and spacious room ( for 20,000 won – 2005 rates). There’s also a camping ground beside the minbak village if you prefer to pitch a tent. The National Parks Information Centre is on the second floor of the bus terminal. It’s useful to stop there first to pick up maps, get weather updates and send off emails on PCs available here for tourists.

Source:
Juwangsan National Park Information brochure produced by the National Parks Authority
http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264150


For more info, contact: JNP office
Tel 054-873-0015
Email: chuwang@npa.or.kr
Homepage: www.npa.or.kr/chuwang