Yecheon - A Side Trip from the KBS Hwangjinyi Trail

While I'm not likely to make the effort to look for the Byeongamjeong Pavilion which formed the evocative backdrop to the meeting and parting of the young lovers in the KBS period drama, Hwangjinyi, I wouldn't spend spending time in Yecheon, the county where the pavilion is located.
This county in Gyeongsangbuk-do tends to go under the tourist radar; no surprise with more well-publicised attractions in nearby Andong.

Yecheon's in Gyeongsangbuk-do

Still, the county with a charming name (Yecheon,  예천군, 醴泉郡, sweet liquor.stream/spring) has a few places worth highlighting for a different travel experience especially as I prefer the laid-back pace with the opportunity to sample the agrarian practices and the traditional lifestyle of the yangban.

1. First stop I'd make: Hoeryeong-po or Horyeong-po or Hoelyeongpo (회룡포). This place is a geography lesson on ox-bow lakes come alive.  Firmly in the embrace of the Naeseong-cheon, which is a tributary of the Nakdong-gang, this agrarian village in Yonggung-myeon is about 17 km west of Yecheon.  It used to have at least twenty households a decade ago but apparently "only nine households remain".  It would be interesting to count how many households there are now. BTW, how many households are needed to call a village a village?

For best views of Horyeong-po, I'll need to get out my hiking boots and head for Biryong-san. Check out this posting on a day trip with rewarding views.

The pavilion on Biryongsan for great views of Horyeongpo

I'll play a game of spot the  rice fields and try to  identify the squash and watermelons plants but at the same time see if any particular spots look familiar as outdoor locations for  "Autumn in My Heart or Gaeul Donghwa ( 2002), one of the earliest Hallyu K-dramas which became popular outside Korea.

Cast of Gaeul Donghwa - Won Bin, Song Hye-gyo, and what's his name?

I'd also see if I can join a group  of visitors participating in a 2-day village experience. Hopefully I can learn to make and sample Korean rosebay cakes, and  pretend to be a farmer for a few hours by seeding potatoes, corn and collecting mugwort and pickpurse  ( Spergula arvensis L. ) in the surrounding hills. Or I'd just call 011-802-9054 or contact Chairman Ju-Hee Ryu at 017-533-651 to see if they'd entertain individual requests.

◈ Hopefully I'd have the stamina to reach this site to get similar scenic shots of this picturesque village such as those on this website  and these great shots from The Marmot's Hole. Must also remember to read up beforehand on the Three Rivers Pub or the Samgang Jumak, the last of the traditional watering-holes in the country.

2. Geumdangsil Village meaning "Lotus Blossom Floating Over / On? The Water" sounds like another pleasant stopover.  It's 1 km from Byeongamjeong ( Local Road 982 towards Yongmunsa)  and the description of its "picturesque old homes and stacked stone wall-lined streets" sounds promising. It'd be fun to get happily lost in its maze of narrow lanes and alleys. I could also check out Park Yeon-i's home ( in the first alley past the village entrance near Bansonjae House) which was used in the movie "Please Teach Me English".  Not so keen to take up the villagers' offer to dress up in period costumes but I wouldn't mind  signing up for calligraphy lessons or tea ceremonies for a sampling of the yangban ( aristocratic) life.

Musr remember that free calligraphy lessons are available on Monday evenings 7 pm but must BMyO brushes, chinese ink, paper. Contact : Yongmun myun office 82-54-650-6612 Transportation : 20 m from Yechun eup(10km).

Yecheon Hot Spring

3.If there's a 24-hour jjimjilbang at theYecheon hot spring  (예천온천), then this is the place for me. Let's see if there's any basis to the claim from the KTO website: "The nutrients in the water also have anti-aging properties."

To get there, I'd have to board a  bus to Yecheon Intercity Bus Terminal (예천시외버스터미널) at Dong Seoul Terminal (Departure 11 times a day (06:40-20:00), 2 hour and 30 minute ride). Then I'd need to get on the bus to Beolbang / Punggi (Hot Spring) at Yecheon Bus Terminal (06:20-18:10, 20 minute ride)

Nailseong Observatory

4. Never been to an observatory before so a visit to the Yecheon Astronomical Science Park a.ka. Nailseong Observatory could be an enlightening experience but if there aren't many translated displays in English, then I doubt if I could make head or tail of the artefacts on display in Nailseong Planetarium.
Perhaps I'd be better off as an armchair traveller and surf its website at http://www.portsky.net/

Still, it might be fun trying out the high-powered telescope and the astronaut training simulations even though I can't read  about the history of astronomy etc if the explanations are all in Korean only. If I can master my nerves, I'd try out the " G-force Simulator, bounce around in the Moon Walk Chair, experience the vertigo of zero-gravity on the Multi-Axis Trainer, or float in space using the MMU (Manned Maneuvering Unit)".  But if my queasy and cowardly stomach protesteth too much, then I'll humbly retreat to the auditorium to find out what a 4D movie looks like. Wonder if the overnight stay facility here is as cheap as a jjimjilbang stay?

To get there, I'd have to take a bus bound for Gamcheon (감천), Oncheon (온천), Beolbang (벌방), or Punggi (풍기) from the Yecheon Intercity Bus Terminal ,  *Bus departs approx. every 90 min


Sources:


http://www.investkorea.org/InvestKoreaWar/work/ik/eng/bo/print_added.jsp?bno=704200006&sort_num=114
http://en.filmkorea.or.kr/search/search_viewer.asp?grp=101&dir=1826&gotopage=4
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=805822
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=805822
http://www.invil.org/english/village/daegu/contents.jsp?con_no=101565&page_no=1
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yecheon
http://wiki.galbijim.com/Yecheon
http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=805928
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=1127954
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=1216638
http://san-shin.net/Yecheon-Biryongsan.html
http://en.ycg.kr/open_content/main/
http://211.114.21.20/alienspecies/eng/search/detail.jsp?id=16&page=10&code=
http://georgesuzuki.blogspot.com/2010/09/100911-mt-biryongsan-hwerongpo-yechon.html
http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/program/program_tour_detail.htm?lang=e&current_page=7&No=1359

Ryu Si-won's New Roles As Real-life Husband and Dad

Here's another Hallyuwood wedding and celebrity baby to look forward to.

RSW with his co-star, Jang Nara in the drama series, Wedding above. RSW on his real marriage and fiancee ( a dance major, nine years his junior) : " I’m approaching the end of my 30’s, and it’s a new opportunity to show change. I will try harder than I have done in the past and show you all an improved image…the 26th is my wedding with my girlfriend, who is a normal citizen.. I've always said my ideal type is a feminine woman. My fiancée is very close to my ideal type as she has a calm personality and fair skin. I often wondered if a moment like this would ever come to me, but it has come, and I am truly happy."

In addition to the many roles he has played in reel life, Ryu Si-won is about to take on the dual real-life roles as husband and father-to-be on the 26th October. After reading the news about his impending marriage, I was surprised to find out what a busy bee he has been over the years since I first saw him upstaged by Lee Byung-hyun in “Beautiful Days” which also starred Choi Ji-woo.

Here’s a quick run-down of what he’s been up to:

 Actor in TV drama series – most recently he appeared in “Style” with Lee Yong-woo and Kim Hye-soo

RSW on his return to the small screen through Style : ``I have been busy working in Japan. I think it's been five years since my last drama, and I'm as worried and nervous as ever. I feel like I'm starting all over again,''
 MC for a music chart show

 Singer of romantic ballads –“Change” was his first album in 1995

 Producer of his own promotional photos and helped to produce Ko Soo’s first photo diary “ 24 Hours With Ko Soo”

 Holder of an international car racing license, Ryu is coach and racer for a professional car racing team which he founded.

RSW and his protege: "This year being the sixteenth anniversary of my debut, I wanted to repay the love I received from fans by training younger artists who have talent and passion. I will do everything to support talented young artists so they can earn recognition overseas, not to mention Korea.”


 Record producer with female singer, Rottyful Sky, (Kim Hanul) under his wing

 Tourism ambassador and active promoter for KNTO; he also has a hand in developing special tour packages – Formula I World Grand Prix in Yeongam and another tour to celebrate his birthday with his fans

 Soon to be host of an upcoming MBC entertainment show in November
He’s also known as the 14th generation descendant of Yu Seong-ryeong, who was a prime minister in the Joseon Dynasty. His family home, Damyunjae in Hahoe Village in Andong has also attracted many curious visitors on account of his popularity as a Hallyu star who has been in the business for almost twenty years.

His smile has been described as comforting “like the scent of coffee” while his droopy eyes, boy-next-door charm and rolled-up jacket sleeves as his casual signature style have won him many fans particularly in Japan so it’s no surprise he’s been dubbed the “Hallyu Crown Prince”.

At the same time, however, he may not be able to shake off entirely his other nickname, “Ryucifer” given to him following an accident when he unintentionally ran down a pedestrian while driving his Le Mans at night and managed to avoid any police charges with an out-of-court settlement with the family of the victim.

 
RSW on Impending Fatherhood: "I will become the father of a baby in spring… There is no one else in the world who is happier to hear the [baby] news than a father. Everyone, please be good to your family and protect them. You can do that right?”

For KBS commentary on the new trend ( baby first, marriage next) in Hallyuwood, click here.

sources:
http://tiffanykimchiland.blogspot.com/2007_02_01_archive.html
http://koreanupdates.com/2010/07/21/blog-news-ryu-si-won-says-got-good-vibe-about-young-rottyful-sky/
http://www.lautanindonesia.com/forum/index.php?topic=12001.0
http://english.chosun.com/site/data/html_dir/2010/10/07/2010100700455.html

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ryu_Shi-won
http://popseoul.com/2010/10/06/ryu-si-won-is-getting-married/
http://www.allkpop.com/2010/10/hallyu-star-ryu-si-won-to-get-married-and-become-a-father-next-spring
http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2921593
http://www.korean-drama-guide.com/RyuSi-won-kicksoff-producer-career-Rottyful-Sky.html
http://www.chuyenhot.com/anh-cap-3-cua-cac-nam-ngoi-sao-han-851.htm
http://www.showwallpaper.com/view.php?topic=2972&page=3
http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/entertainment/enter_artists_detail.htm?No=103815
http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/art/2009/09/201_48799.html

Around Korea By Bus In Two Weeks, Part 1

Here's how I spent two weeks in Korea chasing the fall foliage way back in 2005. Hopefully this will be useful to  independent travellers when they plan their own trips to catch the autumn leaves this year. By no means am I suggesting that the leaves will be in the same condition around those dates - you need to check the latest fall foliage schedule for that!

For more information on buses, click here.

21 Oct - Friday
Bought and boarded from outside the Incheon International Airport, a direct bus to Daejeon. Be careful not to buy the more expensive deluxe bus as the ordinary bus is sufficiently comfortable. BTW, Daejeon is quite attractive with its gingko-tree-lined avenues and promising sculptures in the public parks. Nice to see the leaves of the gingko trees have turned yellow already.

Had a smooth changeover at the bus terminal at Daejeon and got on another bus bound for Gongju.
Found a yeogwan  or inn near the marketplace; most stalls were closed already but still some were still selling enticing piles of recently harvested mushrooms, persimmons and mandarin oranges.  Eateries within the market are usually open till the evening so I could enjoy my first meal of jjajangmyeon in a sikdang within the market.


22 Oct – Saturday
Caught  bus No 2 to Gapsa from the Gongju bus terminal near the marketplace. Too early for autumn foliage here but the rice fields are already golden and ready for harvesting.

Witnessed part of the celebrations for one of Gapsa’s patron monks were underway.

Short walk to waterfall.

Returned to Gongju to ask about Sunday city tour at the Tourist Information Centre. Staff there kindly let me join tour though I hadn’t made a booking. Stumbled upon the city mascot, i.e. a sculpture of bear beyond the TIC.

23 Oct – Sunday
Joined the free Gongju City Tour. It was conducted in Korean only though the tour guide was able to give me very brief commentaries in English.

Morning stops  of this tour included the Songsan-ri Tombs and the Gongju National Museum; admission to the latter was at an incredible deal of 400 won per person. Great weather - blue skies, sunny but cool.  In the afternoon, the bus crossed river towards Gyeryeongsan Pottery Village – Natural History Museum was the last stop.

Remember: advance bookings are strongly recommended. Note - on other days, the tour may cover places like the Pansori Centre and the Folk Museum. Unfortunately the guard changing ceremony at the fortress is not conducted in late autumn and winter.


24 Oct – Monday
Did a morning exploration of Gong-sanseong ( Fortress) near TIC before I boarded the bus for Daejeon Bus Terminal and changed to a bus for Andong. Met the head and host of Jirye Art Village in Andong.  He took all his guests to view  the  house of Yi clan in Andong and also its brick pagoda  before we were driven to JAV.

Passed orchards full of trees laden with apples. Trees with quinces and persimmons on the grounds of the JAV. Enjoyed great dinner and evening entertainment before turning in for the night in ondol-heated rooms. Beautiful starry night with crisp evening air.

25 Oct – Tuesday
Full day tour of Andong by car driven by the host of JAV. Visited Confucian Academy,  Hahoe Village, Mask Museum ( 1500 won) and a Hanji factory; 2nd night at JAV.

Red ivy on walls complimented red doors of the traditional school, while the gold of the gingko trees in Hahoe was impressive.

Eulalia waved gracefully on the banks of the river hugging Hahoe  village. 

Although it was cold, I opted for a naengmyeon lunch and though the taste was refreshing, I regretted not ordering a warm bowl of kimchi stew instead.


26 Oct – Wednesday
Got a ride from my JAV hostess to bus-stop bound for Juwangsan National Park; 20,000 won minbak opposite bus terminal and TIC; bus and then 45 minute walk to Jusanji ( pond); stunning views of autumnal tints of trees on the banks of the pond reflected in the waters.

Had to  hitch a ride back;  spent rest of evening gawking at the season’s goodies on sale outside shops leading up to park entrance – red bean in fish-shaped cakes, roasted chestnuts and eomuk. Grandmas were selling wild herbs, roasted rice or barley, dried persimmons at roadside stalls.

27 Oct – Thursday
Great walks at Juwangsan Park. As the morning mists lifted, the array of rock formations played with my imagination.

Unfortunately autumn isn't the season to appreciate waterfalls - while Juwangsan has more than its fair share of pokpos, the volume of water by this time had been reduced to undramatic proportions

But the beautiful autumn scenery in Juwangsan was ample compensation. Saw two ajummas enjoying a plate of acorn jelly while I was digging into my kalguksu after a long morning's walk.

28 Oct – Friday ( another full day of travelling)
Bought my bus ticket at the automated machine at the Juwangsan bus terminal for Daegu. Hopped onto a taxi to change from one bus terminal in Daegu to another on the other side of the city to get to Suncheon, thanks to a tip from a friendly bus driver.

Rustic Charms of A Fortress Village, Suncheon, Part 3

Feel strange walking into Nagan-eupseong simply dressed in jeans, a pullover and sneakers. Should be wearing a plain hanbok or even some traditional peasant clothes stained the colour of persimmons with straw sandals instead. Such is the charm of this village that once I pass through its main gate, I am transported into another world and another time.

Nagan-eupseong Folk Village, 22 km west of Suncheon, was the site of the Paji Castle during the Baekje Dynasty and continued as a village in the Joseon dynasty. It’s more like a combination of Hahoe Village in Andong and the Korean Folk Village in Suwon because people still live and work here, alongside the open-air museum that it is. Unlike Hahoe which prides itself on being home to aristocratic families, Nagan-eupseong showcases the life of the ordinary folk.

Another striking difference is that Nagan-eupseong is a fortress village surrounded by a pretty thick wall with impressive gates at both ends of the village. The 1.41 km long and 4 m high walls, first built from sand and eventually stone, were intended to keep out Japanese invaders. These days, tourists such as yours truly are free to climb onto the ramparts. The double vision one gets standing there is quite strange: within the walls, I’m back in the time looking over rustic straw huts or tiled roofs of cottages and outside the walls, I’m immediately whisked back to modern times with the Korean 20th century style houses.

Am glad to have the company of three year old Dong Ok and his mum, a friendly ajumma that I meet on the tour bus. She points out to me various plants in the gardens of different cottages as we peer over the low stone hedges. We discover cotton balls which can be plucked straight off the plant, the purple flower of the doraji plant, another delicate bloom from the green tea bush, calabashes ( longish dark-green gourds sun-dried to use as bathing sponges). Persimmons and quinces hang from bare branches and the ginkgo trees are splendid as always.

There’s also a water wheel still in operation, the amusing entrance of a dragon kiln at the local pottery ( painted to look like a monster’s open mouth), a drinks dispensing machine boarded up to look suitably rustic and retro, a grand pavilion with an enormous drum, a long-bearded halbeoji in yellow earth-dyed garb who welcomes us as we watch him weaving ropes the traditional way.

The claim on the Suncheon website seems justified – there is a friendly atmosphere and if I’m fortunate enough to pass this way again, I’d like to stay in one of the minbaks available here to soak it all in very slowly.

Sources:
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=762732
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=312888http://www.nagan.or.kr/english/main.html

The Stone Screens of Juwangsan, Part 1

Sometime during the 8th century during a more turbulent time of the Tang Dynasty, revolutionaries or rebels were chasing down King Juwang of China. Legend has it that he sought refuge in Seokpyeongsan, meaning “Stone Screen Mountain” and it’s not hard to see how it came by that name. The poor old king must have felt reassured when he saw the limestone peaks emerging out of the green like some sentinels offering refuge. These days, people running away from urban noise and pollution, continue to seek relief in the place which now goes by the name of Juwangsan.

It is the “only designated national park in the south-eastern region” and as I’m making my way south from Andong, it makes sense to stop by and explore this place a bit. But whether you’re in Andong or Seoul or Busan for that matter, Juwangsan Park is worth the time and effort. Apparently it used to be harder to get here as it’s far from the major cities but new roads have made it easier for motorists and buses to gain access.

The roads have probably been widened since my visit there in 2005 and more of the surrounding rice fields may have given way to the construction of more minbaks, yeogwans or hotels just outside the entrance into the national park. I can understand the temptation to give up the farming life to go into the tourism business – from the sun-dried faces of the halmeonis struggling to sell their persimmons, mushrooms, roasted rice and red peppers at the road-side near the bus terminal, it’s not easy to make a living in rural Korea. But at the same time, I’d be sorry to see those golden rice fields shrink or vanish completely.

It’s way before noon, but as my bus rolls into the bus terminal, I can see that the car park just outside the entrance to the park is already quite crowded with tour buses and cars. Groups of ajummas and ajeosshis clad in red wind-cheaters are sitting cross-legged in circles and picnicking on their kimchi and gimbaps. Just opposite the bus terminal and across the river, I find quite easily a minbak ( family-run guesthouse) with a very clean and spacious room ( for 20,000 won – 2005 rates). There’s also a camping ground beside the minbak village if you prefer to pitch a tent. The National Parks Information Centre is on the second floor of the bus terminal. It’s useful to stop there first to pick up maps, get weather updates and send off emails on PCs available here for tourists.

Source:
Juwangsan National Park Information brochure produced by the National Parks Authority
http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264150


For more info, contact: JNP office
Tel 054-873-0015
Email: chuwang@npa.or.kr
Homepage: www.npa.or.kr/chuwang

My Wish List – Andong Part 7

Here’s a list of the places I’d like to visit if I ever revisit Andong. It’s a convenient base to explore the following which are outside the city proper.

1. Bongjeong-sa

The tourist brochure claims that this temple has the oldest wooden structure in Korea in its Geungnakjeon ( Paradise Hall). Curious as well about the unique wall painting style here called dancheong. Apparently the priest who founded this temple folded a paper crane, cast it to the winds and decided to set up a new temple at the site where the crane landed.

Quaint legend aside, my main reason for wanting to visit this place is to check out Yeongsan-am, a nearby hermitage. It was part of the shooting location for a film that continues to intrigue me: “Why Did Bodhidharma Go To The East?” A climb up Cheongdeunsan (574 m), the hill behind this temple, would also be nice.

Travel Tip: Take local Bus No. 51 which runs every 1½ hours from the front of Andong City Hall to Bongjeong-sa (16 km north-west of Andong)

2. Dosan Seowon

This Confucian school is probably more famous than the Byeongsan Seowon ( see blog dated  Sept 18) and it’s reputed to be so beautiful that many film directors come here to shoot historical dramas like “Painter of the Wind”. The famous scholar, Yi Toe-gye whose face appears on the 1000-won note, established this academy in 1557. For a few hundred years, it was the most prestigious school in the land – the ancient equivalent of the SKY universities that modern Korean youths aspire to enter. Wonder if the Confucian students of the past had a more stressful time than their peers nowadays.

Travel Tip: Bus No 67 from Andong City Hall ( but do confirm with the bus driver as some don’t go all the way to the seowon. You’d need to walk the extra 2 km if that’s the case but the Lonely Planet assures readers of a pleasant jaunt.

3. Cheongnyang-san Provincial Park

Cheongnyang-san lends its name to three places actually – the mountain ( 870 m ), the provincial park, and the biggest temple here. According to the Lonely Planet, there are “ eleven other scenic peaks, eight caves and a waterfall…. The temple (sits) in a steep valley below the cliffs….The park boasts some spectacular views with tracks wandering along cliff precipices.” Sounds promising to me. I’d check into a minbak near the entrance to the park, stay overnight and explore the different trails as far as my legs and nerve will allow.

Travel Tip: The same bus ( No. 67) that goes to Dosan Seowon will continue its journey to the park entrance ( it plies this route every hour; trip takes about 1 hour and 15 mins).

4. Ginkgo tree at Yonggye-ri

Ironically this enormous tree is so close to the Jirye Art Village and yet I don’t think there’s a direct route to it. The literature claims that 14 people would be needed to encircle this tree which is 37 meters tall and has a diameter of 16 meters at its base. Like JAV, it was almost destroyed by the plans to build the Imha Dam but was successfully transplanted to its new home at the southern bank.
Travel Tip: Take Bus No 28 from Andong & get off at the Giran bus stop. After that, it looks like a loooong walk to find this tree. On second thought, hire a car.

5. Buyongdae
I first saw the high cliff of Buyongdae from a strip of sandy beach at Hahoe Village. Next time, I’d like to head straight to this place to view the village from this vantage point. A perfect time to visit would be when the villagers hold their Seonyu Julbulnori ( in October) when ropes of inflammable material are stretched across the river between Hahoe and Buyongdae for a special kind of fireworks show. There are also three buildings here to visit: Hwacheon Seowon, Ogyeonjeong-sa and Gyeomamjeong-sa.

Travel Tip: Get a car. Drive past the entrance to Hahoe Village, pass the Puncheon Agricultural Co-operative and then turn left at the Doyang three-way junction, to go across the Gwangduk-gyo ( Bridge). Follow the road that goes to the left.

For more info on bus schedules to the sights around Andong, please click here.
Source of Photos: KNTO website
Dosan Seowon http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=312772
Bongjeongsa  http://bongjeongsa2.templevill.com/intro/bojeongsa.swf
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=312775

Hahoe Mask Museum – Andong Part 5

Autumn or fall is usually a great time to visit SK as there are many festivals celebrated in the harvest season. Unfortunately that’s not turning out to be the case this year. Call them party poopers or responsible leaders but the Korean officials or organizers don’t seem to be taking any chances and have been cancelling festivals, no thanks to the H1N1 scare. The latest victim of this trend in 2009 is the International Mask Dance Festival which Andong hosts each October.

The people of Hahoe are probably the most disappointed as their village is home to Major Intangible Cultural Asset No. 69: Hahoe Byeolsingut Talnori ( masked play). It has many functions: to entertain, appease the gods, pray for good harvests, exorcise evil spirits and to mock corrupt officials. Even if there aren’t many tourists to entertain this time, perhaps the masked performers could still perform the talnori to pray that the H1N1 scare will die down rapidly. Or it could satirize the tug of war between KNTO whose efforts to draw more tourists to Korea have been frustrated by the government which has been cancelling one festival after another.

If you’re determined to visit Andong this fall, you can find some consolation in the the Hahoe Mask Museum ( Hahoe-domg Tal). Its quite comprehensive collection has masks from around the world include fierce visages from Papua New Guinea, earthy ones from the African continent and ornately decorated ones from Venice. At least you can see here the wide range of Korean masks used in their folk dances and drama. You can also buy reproductions of masks at the museum gift shop. More explanatory notes in English would’ve been good but I guess the curators preferred to let the masks do the talking.

Source: KNTO webpage http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/GK/cms_list_3157.jsp?cid=682664

Fun & Games at Hahoe Maeul, Andong – Part 4

A dramatic avenue flanked on both sides by tall ginkgo trees leads from the parking lot to the village. There are more ginkgo trees with impressive heights within the village and in autumn they are a splendid sight. More busy taking photos of these than of the houses or other attractions in the village.

However, can’t resist taking a few shots at the Minsok-nori Park which has the highest swing I’ve ever seen. Certainly not something for toddlers and even high enough to give some ajummas vertigo.

Traditional games in Korea seem to favour the bold and the athletic. Even the see-saw here seems to be more a game for adults.

On the side facing the Buyongdae cliff, there’s a lovely stretch of sandy beach with a thin strip of pine trees as wind-breaker. There’s a special tradition called “Seonyu julbulnori” held every October here. A long knotted rope is hung across the river between the cliff and the beach and at intervals, some spectacular fireworks within each knot are ignited. At least, that’s what I think the notes in my tourist brochure means. Here’s the verbatim extract:

“It is a fire game to explode the fire at every knot. When fire knot in between Mansongjeong and Buyongdae in Hahoe maeul across the river is tied and lit, fire is exploded at every knot and fire on knots fall down and is co-ordinated with egg fire that creates magnificent view.” Go figure.

Link to video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-lB-0fFyto

Hahoe Maeul, Andong – Part 3

One can understand why Queen Elizabeth and millions of others have visited this place. 24 km west of Andong, Hahoe Village is nestled within the snug embrace of the Nakdong-gang (river), hence its name which means “Stream Winds”. Surrounded by the river on three sides, it’s the ideal place for agricultural activity unless the water levels rise suddenly. Wonder if the good people of Hahoe ever have the problem of flooding in summer.

In fact, the river and mountains that encircle the village have protected it from possible invasions. Hahoe is also special as a living traditional village; unlike the Korean Folk Village near Seoul which is a mere reproduction, Hahoe Maeul is the real deal. It’s more than 600 years old, has about 130 traditional houses here and many buildings are kept as they were during the Joseon Dynasty. The architecture of these houses belonging to aristocrats or farmers is all the more interesting because it’s a living open-air museum with 176 families still living and working there.

There are many minbaks offering homestay here so it’s a great place to stay a few days to soak in the rustic scenes and slow pace of life. Then you would have ample time to look over the low stone walls into the neighbouring houses which are still occupied – perhaps by some descendant of the Ryu clan that presides over this small community.

Links & credits:
http://www.tourandong.com/english/coding/sub1/sub1.asp

Snail Restroom in Andong – Part 2

On our second day at Jirye Art Village, we clamber into Mr Kim’s seven- seater SUV  and head off towards a handsome Confucian Academy ( seowon). There are two seowons in the outlying area near Andong.

Dosan Seowon, about 28 km north of Andong is the more famous school as those who aspired to become high officials in the government would study here and the entrance exams for would-be civil servants were held here. It also happens to be a favourite location for outdoor scenes for TV dramas like Painter of the Wind.

However, today, we’re visiting the other seowon, Byeongsan Seowon, west of Andong and just beside the river. The elevated pavilion, Mandae-ru, that overlooks the broad river is quite large and has impressive beams and columns.

The spaces between the smooth columns look like some folding screen – each with a slightly different scene. How on earth did the ancient scholars manage to concentrate on their studies with so much distracting beauty outdoors?

The steps leading up to this study pavilion are carved out of single logs without benefit of handrails so visitors with unsteady legs or a poor sense of balance may need a helping hand.

Check out the Dalpaeng-i Duitgan(snail restroom) - It's traditional hwajangshil which is  a curious snail shaped structure made of mud-stone walls with a curved entrance and passageway instead of the usual door. In other seowons, such restrooms were built from bamboo trees so luckily there's one at least made of longer-lasting stuff. It's also important enough to be ranked as historical monument No 206. Would enter  to see what the end looks like but not sure if someone is using it at the moment.

Links & sources of pics: http://www.byeongsan.net/english/sub1/sub2.asp
http://www.tourandong.com/english/coding/main.asp
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=313046