Spring Gold and Fall Rubies

I didn't know what I was missing till I saw the latest Touring Korea videoclip produced by KBS World Radio - the footage of ajummas posing among low trees decked out in yellow, removing their socks to soak in spring waters laced with dogwood berries, enjoying tteok embellished with the dried fruits of Cornus officinalis, otherwise known as Sansuyu in Korea,  Japanese Cornelian Cherry or Shanzhuyu (Sour Mountain Date translated from the Chinese) was enough to make me regret giving this place a miss when I visited Korea in the spring of 2007.

I'd dismissed the flowers of this tree as dull in comparison to the magnolia, plum and cherry blossom but I   didn't realise until yesterday that the dried red berries that mum uses in her herbal soups and  steamed chicken dishes came from this specie. The photos of the Sansuyu Festival usually feature trees sprouting pale gold  blooms and after covering forsythia in one posting, I wasn't going to bother with another yellow flower. The red berries are only evident in fall or autumn, hence my failure to make the connection till yesterday.

Those of you in Korea who happen to be in Gurye county may want to go hunting for a tombstone in Sandong village. It's called ‘sansuyu simok’ and aside from the 28,000 sansuyu trees here, it is the sole evidence of the young Chinese girl from Shandong province who brought with her seeds of her hometown trees when she married a Korean here. Now the village produces about  60 percent of all the sansuyu fruit in Korea.

The fruit's not only useful as traditional herbal medicine but also has been mixed with other fruits and herbs for a local health drink and has even found its way into facial masks.

Emperor Qian Long of the Manchu Dynasty thought the sansuyu could increase longevity while many modern-day Koreans and Chinese still consume the dried fruit in various forms. If I get the chance to visit Korea in autumn again, I'll make it a point to visit Sandong Village and offer my services in helping to harvest these ruby-like berries in the hope of taking some freshly-picked sansuyu fruits for mum.


Sources:

http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/consumer/factsheets/trees-new/cornus_officinalis.html
http://www.mdidea.com/products/proper/proper01304.html
http://www.freebase.com/view/en/cornus_officinalis
http://rki.kbs.co.kr/english/culturenlife/culturenlife_touringkorea_detail.htm?no=467
http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/art/2009/10/203_20685.html
http://world.kbs.co.kr/archive/tour/archive/archive_e/e_t030326.htm
http://csjfood.com/english/page2_2_06.html
http://www.alibaba.com/showroom/fruit_face_mask.html
http://www.rbgsyd.nsw.gov.au/tomah/the_garden/blooming_calendar/Cornus_officinalis

City of Love or City of Songs About Love?

There has been a human settlement on the banks of the Yeocheon River in this corner of Jeollabuk-do even before the Baekje Period and since King Gyeongdeok named it Namwon in 757 A.D., it has retained its name for almost 1,300 years. No mean feat and given its position in the history and culture of the country, I can’t understand why it isn’t given more prominence by KNTO. While it doesn’t have the architectural attractions of Gyeongju, I feel it still deserves at least one page on the KNTO website instead of simply a page dedicated to its annual Chunhyang Festival ( held in early May).

Whatever buildings of historic significance were probably decimated during the Imjin War when the town was besieged in 1597. Imagine 56,000 Japanese surrounding this town occupied by only 3,300 Korean and Chinese soldiers and 6000 women and children. Almost the entire population was wiped out in this invasion and Gwanghallu was also totally destroyed and had to be reconstructed much later. I suppose so little of the old town remained to warrant a museum dedicated to the memory of pre-invasion Namwon. All that's there to remind us of its past is one stone monument, one tomb and one small section of the wall surrounding Namwon Castle.

The Namwon Tourism Promotion Commission seems to have decided that romance is the way to go in selling the city as a tourist destination. Namwon has declared itself “the City of Love” on its promotional brochures but at the same time, sells itself as the birthplace of some of its most famous pansori compositions such as Chunhyang-jeon, Heungbu-jeon ( on brotherly love) and Song of Byeon-Gang-Soe ( on erotic love). Trouble is, there isn’t enough translation work done to make the exhibits in the National Center for Traditional Performing Arts accessible to those who can’t understand Korean.

There were booths where I could stand and listen to extracts of pansori performances but I didn’t understand what I was hearing and there wasn’t much in terms of explanation or elaboration. Perhaps there isn’t enough interest among tourists to warrant the expense and effort to offer lengthy descriptions in English. There were also free pansori performances offered on certain evenings ( third Tuesday between April and June, 7 pm) and afternoons ( second and fourth Saturdays) but unfortunately for me, I was at the place at the wrong day and time.

Click here for the official website of Namwon.

Sources:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Namwon
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=860612
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_2_1.jsp?cid=697200
http://en.namwon.go.kr/en/sub2/index.jsp?page_gubun=page1_4
Tourist brochure produced by the Namwon Tourism Promotion Commission ( 2007)

Which Is Your Favourite Couple?

Here's a mini-gallery featuring different versions of Chunhyang and Mong Ryong - two of Korea's most well-known characters in the literature of the country. For the story of Korea's Romeo and Juliet, click here.

Couple 1: from a museum dedicated to Chunhyang within the Gwanghallu grounds. There are other paintings by the same artist, featuring the most important scenes in the Chunhyang legend.

Couple 2: From Im Kwon-taek's movie which features a pansori singer recounting the tale and stars Lee Hyo-jeong as the heroine, Sung Chun-hyang and Cho Seung-woo as Lee Mong-ryong.

Couple 3: Unidentified couple dressed as the pair of Joseon Dynasty lovers in Gwanghallu.

Couple 4: Behind the glass but you could probably take home your own Chun-hyang and Mong-ryong dolls from the souvenir shops that line the outside perimeter of Gwanghallu.

Couple 5: Better still, you could rent the costumes and take home your very own versions of C&M. I like this one 'cos it makes me think of the line, "Grow old with me" and THAT's TRUE ROMANCE in my book.

Couple 6: If Couple 5 is too much reality for you, check out the manhwa or  manga version of the Chunhyang legend.

Han Chae-Young (한채영), otherwise known as Barbie doll and Jae- hee in the 2005 TV series, "My Sassy Girl, Chunhyang"  It's also known as Delightful Girl Choon-Hyang (쾌걸 춘향, Kwae-geol Chun-hyang). To my surprise, it's not featured in the Hallyu section of the KNTO website. You'd think the good folks in KNTO wouldn't pass up the chance to showcase the places in Namwon which were used in the outdoor shooting locations for this popular KBS drama.


sources:
www.ticket2010.com/index.php/New...s_id/933
http://www.minitokyo.net/Shin+Shunkaden
http://www.instrok.org/instrok/lesson1/page03.html?thisChar=6
http://ww.lifeinkorea.com/travel/ncholla/chunstory.htm#fact
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_2_1.jsp?cid=697199
http://www.koreafilm.org/feature/100_21.asp
http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/art/2009/09/145_46570.html
http://www.tokyopop.com/product/1232/LegendofChunHyangThe/1
http://www.dramabeans.com/2007/09/hyang-dan-jeon-the-story-of-hyang-dan/
http://www.orientalarchitecture.com/koreasouth/namwon/gwanghallu.php
http://www.newworldencyclopedia.org/entry/Jirisan
http://www.youloveit.com/2/posts/4_Community/26_Events_and_Concerts_etc_/

Gwanghallu in Namwon

"You're here to see Gwanghallu, aren't you?" The ajumma at the yeogwan in Namwon asked me as I was about to explore the town. Huh? I wasn't even sure why I had come to this place - just a vague idea that it was the place where Im Kwon-taek had shot the movie, Chunhyang,  with a pansori singer narrating the story of Korea's Romeo and Juliet.

Obviously I hadn't done my homework but fortunately, it wasn't too late in the day for me to find my way to Gwanghallu, the main destination of tourists who visit Namwon. It's a Korean-style garden with a charming array of ponds, pavilions, bridges and cottages built during the reign of King Sejong in the 15th century.

According to the tourist brochure, " Gwanghalluwon represents a traditional house and garden structure which shows the philosophy and ideals of  (the Koreans') ancestors. There is a lake with Gwanghalluwon in the centre, and three islands in the lake, symbolising Hallasan, Geumgangsan and Jirisan."

The garden was originally known as Gwangtongru  but renamed "Gwanghallu" which was known as a mythical area where beauties resided on the moon. Indeed, it seemed the perfect setting for a young aristocrat to fall in love with the daughter of a kisaeng. Apparently the hero of the story was in Wanwoljeong Pavilion when he first spotted the heroine on a swing in the distance.

In the evening light, I could see a few couples strolling in the garden, presumably reenacting their own falling-in-love scenes as they drew inspiration from the soothing setting. it wasn't so easy though as there were also groups of giggling schoolgirls screaming with laughter. Romance wasn't on my mind either as I was busy shooting off emails in a small TIC booth which I was pleasantly surprised to find on the grounds.

sources:
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264601

Korea's Girl on A Swing

SWING POEM by Seo Jeong-ju ( 1915-2000)

Hyangdan, push the swing.
Like pushing a ship
Far into the ocean,
Hyangdan.

Away from these wavy willows bowing politely to the wind,
The carpet of flower petals and meadows that lie beneath,
And the sweet butterflies and singing nightingales.
Push me away, Hyangdan.

To the sky where the corals nor islands exist.
Push me up.
Push me up like a coloured cloud,
Push this heart of mine that trembles.

I cannot go like the moon
That slowly runs away to the west.

Push me up away, Hyangdan
As the winds push the waves along.
Hyangdan.

"Seo Jeong-ju is a Korean poet from Jeollabuk-do who wrote three poems on Chunhyang. He dealt with the theme of transcendance through Chunhyang's words to her servant girl, Hyangdan."

What's interesting, for me, at least, is that Seo's Chunhyang, seems so different from the traditional heroine who's been held up as a model of steadfast loyalty to her lover. Instead Chunhyang here is a restless soul who expresses a desire to be elsewhere, a longing to escape the picture-like prettiness of her world. Modern-day misses in Korea may well appreciate the sentiments of Seo's persona instead of the heroine touted in the Chunhyang Festival in Namwon or in the literature books used in Korean schools. How many young Korean girls wouldn't prefer to emulate Han Bi-ya instead of the "Juliet" of the Joseon Dynasty?

Source:
Namwon, The City of Love,  A Tourist brochure ( produced by Namwon Tourism Promotion Commission).
http://www.skyscrapercity.com/showthread.php?t=527650&page=14

Seduced By Maps

Ever been seduced by the promising look of maps? They lay out before you an array of national parks, towns, temples, beaches like a generous buffet of appetizers, main courses and desserts. Whenever I start planning a DIY tour of Korea, I tend to get greedy and want to cram as many places as possible into a few weeks of travel. Maybe less is more but most of these places are really small towns and the main attractions can be covered within a short time though the locals may disagree.

This was my itinerary during my 2007 trip ( 26th March - 7th April). All connections made by inter-city or local bus. It wasn’t too difficult learning the basic phrases to buy bus tickets at the bus stations because I had learnt to read Hanguel ( thank you again, King Sejong for devising such an easy to read writing system!)

26. 3 Arrived Incheon International Airport – Gyeryeongsan ( Donghaksa)
27. 3 Gyeryeongsan – Jinju ( via Daejeon)
28.3 Jinju – Jinhae ( via Masan )
29.3 Jinhae ( Cherry Blossom Festival )
30.3 Jinhae- Namhae ( Daraengi Village)
31.3 Daraengi – Boriam in Namhae
1.4 Boriam – Ssangyesa ( via Hadong)
2.4 Hadong – Namwon
3.4 Namwon – Maisan ( via Jinan)
4.4 Maisan ( Tapsa) - Naesosa ( in Byeonsanbando) via Buan
5.4 Naesosa - Gyeokpo ( in Byeonsanbando)
6.4 Gyeokpo – Seoul ( via Buan)
7.4 Seoul – Incheon International Airport

Next post: Namwon!

A Stroll Along Anmin Road

Thanks to a kind ajumma who gave me a ride to the start of Anmin Road in Jinhae, I was able to realise another modest dream of mine. Eversince I saw the road lined with cherry blossoms in the drama series, Romance, I was set on seeing the place for myself.

Anmin Road , perched on the shoulder of the small mountain range, gives one a pretty good view of the city below. There were plenty of Koreans and a few foreign tourists on the promenade and I remember an elderly gentleman enjoying the spring air with his dog. Turns out that's his daily walk. Lucky man, lucky pooch.

Letter to a Nun In Naksan-sa, Part 5

To A Nun I Met in Naksan-sa,

There I was , stopping outside Hong-ryeong-am in the autumn of 2004, feeling a little more than disappointed and cheated because the sunrise I had been expecting at Uisangdae didn’t materialize. And there you were, apparently just having finished your morning meditations or morning chores with a little time to spare before your next round of chants and prostrations. Can’t remember how we started chatting, if one can even call it that as my Korean was just as limited as your English. But it’s amazing how far a little goodwill and a dictionary can take us.

Despite the language barrier, I think somehow we managed to work out that we shared the same birth year and I think I managed to ask you rather impertinently why you chose to be a nun. You smiled enigmatically ( or was it awkwardly?) because you didn’t want or know how to respond to my presumptuous question.

Our stilted conversation was punctuated by quiet long looks out to sea. My irritation was giving way to your calming smile and soon it was time for you to return to your temple routine. So I was more than a little surprised when you gestured for me to wait as you disappeared and reappeared with a bag of rice cakes and sweets which you put into my hands. My jaw dropped because I was more accustomed to seeing people giving things to Buddhist monks and nuns. Yet there you were - someone who had obviously given up so much, giving up even more to a stranger.

Hurriedly I rifled through my day backpack for something to reciprocate but my main supply of snacks was in the minbak where I’d left my main bag. You smiled reassuringly as if to say it didn’t matter, that you weren’t expecting anything, that you were simply happy to give me a parting present. Some people may think – how embarrassing to be at the receiving end and to accept things from a nun when I should be giving something to you. But it felt like a blessing because your kindness and generosity of spirit more than made up for the sunrise I had missed. Gamsa-hamnida.

Sincerely,

Ajumma

Uneasy on Naksan Beach, Naksan Part 5

Summer shots of Naksan Beach are rather scary. I can just imagine it - The massive crowds in and out of the water. Territorial disputes over space to spread one’s beach towel on the sand. Public humiliation of exposing one’s cellulite in skimpy summer shorts. The long queues to rent a beach umbrella or to buy an ice lolly. But when I find myself on Naksan Beach in autumn, the emptiness is also a little intimidating though of a different sort.

The winds are chilly with a hint of winter and the walk down the empty beach is a little discomfiting as one can’t hide in a crowd here in this season. I feel like a hermit crab without my shell as I’m about the only one on the beach, exposed to the eyes of the locals who must be wondering who this crazy tourist is to be wandering alone on the shoreline.

The ajummas in the sikdangs ( restaurants) who are usually kept busy serving raw fish ( saeng-seon hoe – pronounced “hwey”) are sitting around, chatting or watching TV drama serials. I’m hardly likely to venture into any of these eateries for these reasons 1.I’m not into “ raw squid, flatfish, sea cucumber, abalone, sea urchin or croaker” ( quoting from the Yangyang Travel Guide) 2. I’m on a shoestring budget 3. As a solo traveler, I’m not likely to order an expensive seafood meal usually served to groups (from at least 50,000 to 70,000 won, 2004 prices)

So what else is there to do in Naksan in this low season? I should’ve checked out the Hoe Centre at the base of the cliff where Uisang-dae is perched just to see how Koreans prepare their raw seafood dishes. If I had checked the Yangyang guidebook carefully, I would’ve also visited the Naksan Yellow Ochre Fire Kiln ( sauna) to try out its various facilities such as the natural jade room, the sauna with jade-pebbled heated floor and the herbal steam sauna. ( Bus No 9 goes along National Road No. 7 between Yangyang and Sokcho every 20 minutes , get off at Josan)

A note on getting to Naksan: Took a shuttle bus from Osaek Greenyard Hotel, in the southern part of Soraksan. After a short walk past shops selling a wide assortment of dried seafood, I found a bewildering array of minbaks and yeogwans just before the beach. Not too difficult finding a place to stay during autumn though I’m sure available rooms would be hard to come by in summer. Paid 20,000 won for a small room in a minbak ( October, 2004 prices)

sources:
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264622
http://eng.yangyang.go.kr/page/foreign/eng/index.jsp
http://www.korea.net/news/news/newsview.asp?serial_no=20080704010
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Korea_style_raw_fish.jpg

Rising From The Ashes, Naksan-sa Part 4

I visited Naksan-sa during my 2004 visit to Korea in autumn and then  in April, 2005, I was dismayed to hear that the temple had fallen victim to a forest fire. No thanks to dry and strong winds, it had spread and destroyed most of the temple buildings along with many important artefacts such as a 15th century bronze bell.

A sorry sight - Naksan-sa after the 2005 fire.

It wasn’t the first time the temple had been ravaged by the flames. Naksan-sa had been burnt down before when the Mongol invaders over-ran the country in the 13th century. Its reconstruction took place at different times during the 15th and 17th centuries under the Joseon kings. Again, during the Korean War of 1950-53, it was razed to the ground and rebuilt in late 1953. In its most recent reincarnation, Naksan-sa has been restored within four years after the 2005 disaster like the legendary phoenix rising from the ashes.

Reconstruction work on the temple flooring

It’s a remarkable story of resilience and community effort. In his speech at the completion ceremony on October 12, 2009, the abbot of Naksan-sa said: “I bow my head and humbly thank all the monks and nuns of the Jogye Order, Buddhist devotees, and Korean citizens for helping in the difficult four-year restoration process. We will do our best to continue in the restoration to return Naksansa Temple to the hearts of the Korean people. It is important to not only restore the buildings, but also the 1000-year cultural heritage and the spirit of the ancestors.”

Even the surrounding walls get a new lease on life

A local museum now houses a violin and cello which were built from wood that survived the fire on the temple grounds. Check out the flash presentation which is based on the story of the temple. Aside from the inspiring morality tale about endurance and fortitude, one wonders if measures are in place to protect such historic and religious buildings from similar fires. For another story of a temple which was also a fire victim, click here.

Reconstruction Project Completed by 2009!

Sources

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naksansa#2005_fire_and_reconstruction
http://www.buddhapia.com/buddhapi/eng/temple/korexp/html/bu11.html
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=312871
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=309343
http://english.triptokorea.com/english/viewtopic.php?t=5925
http://eng.koreatemple.net/travel/view_temple.asp?temple_id=32
http://www.koreanbuddhism.net/jokb/press/view.asp?article_seq=5865&page=1&search_key=&search_value=
http://www.knto.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264186&nearBy=site&
http://www.kimsch.net/flash/dream-en.swf
http://www.land.go.kr/gTra.do?tra=enudestination&cid=3204
http://german.visitkorea.or.kr/ger/SI/SI_GE_3_1_1_2.jsp?cid=335521

Danyang Rocks! - Part 2

Rock lovers will enjoy Danyang in Chungcheongbuk-do ( not to be confused with Damyang of Jeollanam-do)  for the following reasons:

1. Dodamsambong ( Three Peaks). This landmark, just north of Danyang, has been featured in many commercials and advertisements in Korea.

It’s smaller than expected and only romantic in the right circumstances – go early in the morning or late in the evening. It doesn’t seem so evocative in the harsh glare of daylight.

2. Seongmun ( Stone Gate) is 200 meters away from Dodamsambong and has been dubbed presumably by the Koreans themselves “ the most splendid stone gate in Asia”.

source: http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3592/3621139721_f4a20683cc.jpg

3. Prehistoric artifacts which were excavated in the region are on display in Suyanggae Prehistoric Remains Hall in the centre of Danyang town.

source: http://www.emuseum.go.kr/eng/museum/museum_04_31.jsp

4. Sainam Rock is less accessible so it’s best to hop into a cab and head south of Danyang to see its ancient pines and pretty vertical profile.

source: http://static.panoramio.com/photos/original/17059889.jpg

5. South of Sainam Rock is Doraksan ( 964 m). Another handsome pine perched near the peak affords some dramatic photo opportunities.

source: http://www.land.go.kr/eng/images/tra/3301/223036_image2_1.jpg

6. Still further south is Mount Hwangjeong ( 959 m) which is home to vertical rock formations which are 20 -30 m high and form a splendid stone screen.

source: http://eng.gbmg.go.kr/image/gallery/thumb/120_360_300.jpg

7. Danyang has three natural monuments – beside Gosu Cave, you can also give your imagination a workout by giving your own names to the stalactites and stalagmites in Ondal , Cheondong and Nodong Caves.

source:
http://www.land.go.kr/gTra.do?tra=enudestination&cid=3301
http://cache.virtualtourist.com/4262045-Namhan_River_and_bridge_at_Danyang_South_Korea-Tanyang.jpg

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Korea-Danyang-Gosu_Cave_3184-07.JPG
http://www.travelblog.org/Asia/South-Korea/Seoul/blog-118713.html
http://images.travelpod.com/users/quebekwalouis/2.1221235320.gosu-donggulx-danyang.jpg

Gyeongju Revisited, Part 1

On hindsight, I realise that I have done Gyeongju a great disservice. It was our  first visit to Korea so my travel companion and I unwisely planned a whirlwind tour of the country and allocated very little time to this city known as a “ museum without walls”. It does seem sacriligeous somehow to attempt to appreciate its 1000- year history in two measly days.

 So how much time should one spend in this ancient capital appointed by the Shilla kings? After going over the literature that I managed to collect while there, I think at least one week, if not a few months, should be devoted exclusively to this place because there’s really so much to see – from royal tombs to Buddhist relics to UNESCO World Heritage sites.

Of course, if you’re really strapped for time and you have 10,000 won to spare, there’s a private bus which departs twice daily from the Gyeongju Express Bus Terminal twice daily to the main attractions. Stops on the seven-hour long tour include Bulguksa Temple, the Folk Craft Village, Poseokjeong Pavilion, the Gyeongju National Museum, the Cheomseongdae Observatory and the Cheonmachong Tomb. ( tel. 054-743-6001)

A word of caution though - people assume from the claim that Gyeongju is an open-air museum that the whole place looks like some ancient city. The reality is that its many cultural treasures are scattered around the edges of the present urban centre. It's advisable to read up on the history of the Shilla Dynasty to appreciate more fully the sights.

source:
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=312887
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=312750

Whirlwind Tour of Damyang in a Police Car, Part 2

Here's a brief run-down of my 2005 tour of  Damyang, courtesy of the local police. See previous posting.

Daenamugol Bamboo Park

This place is the location for a number of TV drama series like Damo but I didn’t know that when I visited this place in 2005. But one doesn’t really need to do a Hallyu pilgrimage to do justice to this place. Just wear comfortable walking shoes and read up beforehand about the different types of bamboo to appreciate this place more fully. It’s a balm to the senses to walk quietly along the narrow paths flanked by tall and slender bamboo. Have to keep reminding myself that they’re not trees but grasses that share similar genetic make-up with rice and wheat.

Songhac Experience Museum

Admission charges in 2005: Adults -2500 won & children - 1500 won
E-mail: songhac7179@naver.com

This small museum has a fairly engaging collection of artefacts - such as furniture, clothing, ceramics, kitchen and farming utensils and even turn of the century schoolbooks - that give the visitor an idea of what life was like for ordinary Koreans in times past. Displays are on two floors and there are some hands-on activities like brass rubbings and collecting imprints of seals.

Unfortunately, there weren’t any explanations in English so I had to use my imagination a fair bit to figure out what’s what. There were also larger exhibits around and on a small pond outside the main building but I didn’t have time to look around further.

Lake Damyang
If you’re lucky to be in a car or if you can rent one, the winding road alongside this pretty lake makes a great drive. If you have more time, you can also check out the Chuwol or Juwol Tourist Site, the camping grounds on Gamagol, and the Geumseong Fortress Wall.

Metasequoia Road
Click here for my earlier posting on this attraction.

Credit: Kiwistyle, dcinside

sources:www.damyang.go.kr
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=706556
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/FU/FU_EN_15.jsp?cid=317001

Who's Among the Lions?

What I Wished I Knew About Hwaeomsa Before I Went There, Part 4

If you walk behind Gakhwangjeon Hall and climb up 108 steps to reach the Terrace of Filial Piety, you’ll find a clearing with camellia trees and National Treasure No 35. The Four Lions Three-Storey Stone Pagoda is also the oldest relic in Hwaeomsa (temple), supposedly erected in the 8th century by Yon-gi.

This stone sculpture is noteworthy for a few reasons. Each face of the lower base has relief carvings of heavenly musicians on the lute, harp or mouth organ and dancers. Above them stand four lions on stone lotuses. It was the first time lions were used as part of the design. These symbolise the power of Buddha and if you look carefully at the expressions of each creature, you may discover that the mouths get wider and wider as you walk clockwise around the pagoda.

Right in the centre, among the lions, there’s a sculpture of a human figure – but its identity remains obscure. Is it a statue of a priest or a nun or even the mother of Yon-gi, the founder of the temple?

A stone lantern opposite this pagoda has another stone figure with one knee bent as if making an offering ( a cup of tea, perhaps) or is it supposed to represent Yongi honouring his mother?

Either way, it’s a peaceful spot to soak in the atmosphere, enjoy a little picnic, reflect on filial piety or just be thankful for all the great moms out there.


Sources:
http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/cms/resource/01/707401_image2_1.jpg

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Korea-Gurye-Hwaeomsa_5009-06.JPG
http://english.gurye.go.kr/english/jirisan/valleys.html
http://media.graniteschools.org/Curriculum/korea/hwaomsa.htmh
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Pyzf11LwE6fMD4R6o3boqQ
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/User:Waygugin/Sandbox
http://san-shin.net/Jiri-Hwaeom-1.html
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=822435