Seven Commandments For Cittaslow Visitors

Came across this article from the JoongAng Daily which reported how the Cittaslow Movement wasn't really working out for the local population. Hordes of tourists who descend on such villages create jammed roads and piles of rubbish, amongst other problems.

So here are unfriendly but necessary rules I'd recommend to protect the slow lifestyle of Jeungdo under threat:

1. Thou shalt forsake thy private transport. ( leave your car at home; walk or hire a bike instead).

2. Thou shalt not covet the fruit of thy Cittaslow neighbour's labour. ( in short, don't pinch the farmers' produce!)

3. Thou shalt not be led into temptation and submit to your nicotine addiction.( Please don't stink up the air with your ciggies!)

4. Thou shalt bear the burden of any rubbish you have and carry it home. ( the limited resources of these places can't cope with the litter left by visitors)

5. Honour the privacy and respect the property of those who dwell in the Cittaslow homes. ( please don't turn them into prisoners in their own home).

6. Thou shalt practise forbearance and suffer patiently the slower service. ( after all, you did come for a slower pace of life, right? )

7. Remember the commandments for the National Parks and keep these places holy and inviolate as well ( ie. take nothing but photos, leave nothing but footprints).

BTW, If anyone can suggest three more rules  to make a complete set of commandments, I'd be grateful!

UPDATE: Comment from Aaron McKenzie ( thanks!)

I saw this article, too. I had to laugh, though, because in the very same issue of the Joong Ang, was an article about the new "slow lifestyle" movement which containted this quote:



"Businesses that aim to enrich living spaces also stand to gain from this trend. The recently designated “slow city” of Jeung Island boasts large expanses of mud flats, salt fields and wetlands."

So, on the same day, the Joong Ang reports on how folks on Jeungdo are complaining about too many damned tourists...and then the paper essentially recommends that folks go have a look at the place.

sources:
http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2923048
http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_4_12_15_4.jsp
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=815540

Footnotes for Naejangsan, Part 6

Here are some tips for visitors to Naejangsan National Park:

Naejangsan National Parks Visitors Centre above

 1. Check out the National Parks Visitor Centre ( not to be confused with the National Parks Information Centre) - tourists can make use of the free internet access to email friends and family about how their feet are killing them! For more info on getting there and staying there, click here.

Naejangsan National Parks Information Centre

 2. Get free map which shows topography of the park and information from the friendly staff at the NP Visitors Centre  here before setting off on your walk. I regret assuming that it was beyond my ability and fitness level to attempt to reach one of the lowest peaks here and denied myself the opportunity to brag about it to friends.

 Study the contours and gradients and check your feet before heading for the peaks and ridges.
3. Forget about looking for waterfalls in autumn/ fall. They're not terribly exciting as this is the dry spell. As a matter of fact, it can be so dry that the locals practise water rationing at times so check with the ajumma if before you take a shower in your yeogwan or minbak.

4. Check with the meteorological department - I was at NNP a few days before the autumn leaves were expected to turn 100% red and was lamenting that I only saw them at 60 % of their full maple glory. By a stroke of luck, I found myself back in Naejangsan a few days later, when they were supposed to reach the peak of their scarlet hues according to the autumn foliage schedule and guess what happens? It rains and pours and many of the poor dampong drop to the ground, limp and despondent.

source:
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/FU/FU_EN_15.jsp?cid=808007
http://naejang.knps.or.kr/Naejangsan_eng/intro/facilities.html

Early Birds Get The Shots, Naejangsan Part 3

Shades of autumn in Naejangsan National Park ( November, 2005)

The National Parks staff at Naejangsan are probably the most hard-working bunch. They were already selling tickets at the entrance booth at 6 a.m. Not kidding. I could've taken the park shuttle to get to the cable car station but thought I'd do a bit of warming-up and walk instead. Besides I knew the ticket booth wouldn't open so early but I hadn't reckoned on there being a queue in front of it before it opened at 7 am. The 45 minute walk had, fortunately, done its job of warming me up and the excitement was building as we tried to wait patiently in the nippy air.

View of the cable car station amid summer foliage

It was a short ride to the top of one of the many peaks that surround the valley. Just in time for sunrise but I had to share standing space at a pavilion with some avid photographers who thought nothing of lugging their massive tripods and lenses up the ridge for some spectacular shots.

View of  cable car station in the valley far below from one of the seven main peaks

encircling Naejangsa. Dawn is breaking and the photographers are clicking away madly.

On my way back to the cable car station, I paused to gape at a man balancing at least six heavy boxes on his back with the help of a traditional bamboo carrier as he made his way along the narrow ridge path to goodness knows where.

source:

http://www.knto.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=658455&nearBy=site

Dear Bloggers in Korea, Can I Get Some Foliage Reports?

Is global warming quickening the extinction of Maple Korea?  Am confused and worried.

Credit: Yonhap News

The glorious picture of autumn  above was featured on the 27th October this year. Then on the 2nd November, KBS features the scene below. Both shots were taken in Gangwondo.

Credit: Yonhap News

On November 2, KBS reported that the first cold wave alert was issued for certain parts of the country. It looked as if an early winter has descended on Korea. The following day, I read this:
"The Korea Meteorological Administration (KMA) forecasts warmer weather than years past, with mild temperatures continuing through early December."

What gives? Are autumns in Korea getting shorter and shorter?  A friend who's in Japan told me that the leaves are just turning brown before they drop off while in other places, trees are already bare. As a tourist from a non-temperate country and who loves going to see the autumn foliage in Korea's  many national parks, the prospect is ALARMING.

Would really appreciate it if any blogger who lives in Korea can let me know if the maple foliage is still enjoying a fairly long shelf-life.

Climbing, Culture and Cuisine - Jirisan, Part 1

No visit to Korea is complete until you’ve visited the first, the oldest ( designated as a national park in Dec, 29, 1967) and the biggest national park in South Korea. The enormity of Jirisan National Park is apparent when you study the maps and realise that three provinces, Jeollanam-do, Jeollabuk-do and Gyeongsangnam-do, share this enormous mountain which has at least eight peaks over 1000 meters.

Seasoned climbers like to do the ridge course which may include reaching peaks in the west like Nogodan ( 1507 m) and going along the ridge eastwards all the way to Cheonwangbong ( 1915. 4 m), the second-highest peak in ROK, after Hallasan in Jeju. You need at least three or four days to complete this course at a leisurely pace though theoretically it can be done within 24 hours if you don’t stop to pee, eat or take photos. Others with less ambition, stamina and time such as yours truly can be content to amble along the foothills to admire the many beautiful valleys, waterfalls, temples and hermitages that dot the area. There are numerous trails for day-trips and the Lonely Planet recommends getting the Jirisan National Park map produced by the National Parks if you plan on doing a few of these hikes.

Jirisan is also significant for all the ancient religions practised in the country. Those who still follow shamanistic rites hold sacrificial rites here. Taoists believe that Jirisan is home to its great immortals while Buddhists still make pilgrimages to visit places believed to be occupied by bodhisattvas. Besides temples and hermitages of historic and cultural importance, there are also villages to explore such as Chonghakdong which maintains Confucian traditions; Shimwon, dubbed to my amusement, “First Village Under the Sky” and Sangwi which celebrates with a festival in spring the blooming of golden Japanese dogwood or ssansuyu ( Cornusofficinalis).

Last but not least, Jirisan has a reputation of having one of the cleanest environments in the country so the quality of the food here is said to be very good. You can sample the sweet fish which thrive in the unpolluted waters of the Sumjingang, for instance. Or if you fancy indulging like a Joseon emperor but still have to eat healthily, try the Hanjeongsik ( traditional banquet meal) available in many restaurants here as many local herbs from the hillsides are used. Local pork and crab dishes are also well-known here.

Source:http://jiri.knps.or.kr/eng/
http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/cms/resource/01/707401_image2_1.jpg
http://english.gurye.go.kr/english/jirisan/valleys.html
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=822435
http://jiri.knps.or.kr/eng/intro/guidence.html
http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/spa/TR/TR_SP_3_3.jsp?cid=310643

Letter for the OTHER Lee Young-Ae, Juwangsan, Part 4

Dear Miss Lee Young-Ae,

I'd like to say Gamsa-hae-yo for your friendly welcome when I dropped by the Juwangsan National Park Information Centre. I noticed your name on your badge and asked quizzically, "Dae-jang-geum?"

Photo: Not THAT Lee Young-Ae!

You laughed in delight because this foreigner recognised you had the same name as the actress, Lee Young-Ae who plays the heroine in the hugely popular drama series, Jewel in the Palace, also known as DaeJangGeum. Don't know if that's why you were so kind and generous in giving me a drink and some candies as a parting gift but I was really touched by your spontaneous gesture.

Would've liked to ask you more - if the name was a common one among girls in Korea, if you enjoyed your work with the National Parks organisation in Juwangsan and if you enjoyed the MBC drama series as much as I did. Sadly, I didn't speak enough Korean to satisfy my curiosity but the memory of your kindness and your smile remains with me.

Thanks once again!
Ajumma

Source:
 http://news.stareastasia.com/2007/12/lee-young-ae-to-open-coffee-house/
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264150
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/CU/content/cms_view_304714.jsp

You Take The High Road; I’ll Take the Low Road, Juwangsan, Part 3

Here are some trails you can follow within the Juwangsan National Park. They appear in order of level of difficulty and scenic interest.

1. The Waterfall Trail ( which I take because I’m a sucker for water features even though I know they aren’t so exciting in autumn; OK, I’ll be honest – the gentle gradient along this walk has a lot to do with my choice as well!)

Daejeonsa - Jeilpokpo ( First Waterfall; 2 km from Ticket Office) – Jeipokpo ( Second Waterfall) – Jesampokpo ( Third Waterfall) – Naewonmaeul ( Artists’ Village)
Comment:

Follow the river upstream and enjoy getting side-tracked when you reach signposts which point to some interesting rock formations. The narrow gorge, site for the first waterfall, has an element of suspense because the walker can’t see what’s ahead. The second pokpo is more dramatic with twin falls taking the plunge. The third is also intriguing as it seems to have carved out a deep pool before retiring in a shallow pool. Naewonmaeul seems to be abandoned or perhaps only comes alive in summer. There’s only a tethered goat here bleating for release.

2. The Caves Route ( which can be combined with the first one)
Daejeonsa – Yeonhwagul ( on the left side of the trail, near a picnic ground) – then further up, on the right side of the trail, Juwangam ( hermitage) – Mujanggul – Juwanggul

Comment:
Somewhere near Juwangam, follow a steel staircase for about 100 m through a narrow gorge to reach a cliff and cave with an adjacent waterfall. Legend has it that King Ju took refuge with his chidren here while hiding from his enemies. Apparently he also died in Juwanggul ( cave).

3. The "I'm No Wimp" Route ( recommended by the Lonely Planet)
“Most visitors just see the waterfalls and caves, but for a more rigorous experience, try hiking up from Daejoensa to Juwangsan, 720 m ( 1 ¼ hours), along the ridge to Kaldeunggogae, 732 m ( 15 minutes) and then down to Hurimaegi ( 50 mins) before following the valley back to Daejeonsa. ( 1 ¾ hours)

Comment:
Time estimates irritate me – I know it means time for the average walker but then, I’m obviously below average as I usually need far longer to reach the said destinations. But seriously, this sounds like a great route and the views from the peak and ridge sound promising.

Sources:
Map http://www.flickr.com/photos/alexzuccarelli/2711311294/sizes/o/
http://juwang.knps.or.kr/eng/info/history.html
http://www.land.go.kr/gTra.do?tra=enudestination&cid=3505
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264150

The Early Bird Gets Juwangsan, Part 2

It’s 7 a.m. and the ticket office at the entrance to Juwangsan National Park isn’t open yet. It’s almost as if I have the whole place to myself. But then again, there are a few middle-aged and elderly couples who are out early as well for their daily exercise and I’m already envious of them because they’ve got such a delightful park on their doorstep.

South Korea is a walker’s paradise with twenty national parks and 19 provincial parks. Some of them, like Soraksan and Jirisan are so large, you’d need several weekends to cover the main trails. Juwangsan is comparatively modest in size ( 106 square kilometers) and it’s ideal for those less inclined to head for the inclines.

The gentle trail along Jubangcheon, the main valley in the middle of this gem of a park, suits me fine. I can walk for 10 km ( 5 km one-way) , without taxing my soles or ankles too much. The broad trail narrows down gradually to a footpath that goes past some intriguing rock formations that look even more mysterious in the early morning mists.

Like the other parks in Korea, Juwangsan National Park is a spa for the senses. The woods are lovely, with a palette of red maples, brown oaks and green pines that contrast with grey shades of the rocks. The air is cool, crisp, clean. It’s easier to enjoy all these because of the silence except for a few birds chirping and the sounds of the stream and the waterfalls. It’s great to be away from concrete sidewalks to get in touch literally with bark, leaf, sand, stone and water.

The sun’s fairly high in the sky and the crowds are already pouring in when I make my way out to a sikdang for a hot bowl of kalguksu. Can’t help feeling smug as I sit on a cushion beside a sluggish stream and watch the tour groups and families stream into the park.

Think I’ve discovered my modus operandi when it comes to visiting the parks: get in early before the tour coaches, get out for an early lunch before the crowds swell in the restaurants and then, if there's still energy and inclination, spend the rest of the day exploring a less crowded trail in the park.

Source:
http://tour.cs.go.kr/eng/03/01_01.asp
http://origo.tourexpress.com
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264150

The Stone Screens of Juwangsan, Part 1

Sometime during the 8th century during a more turbulent time of the Tang Dynasty, revolutionaries or rebels were chasing down King Juwang of China. Legend has it that he sought refuge in Seokpyeongsan, meaning “Stone Screen Mountain” and it’s not hard to see how it came by that name. The poor old king must have felt reassured when he saw the limestone peaks emerging out of the green like some sentinels offering refuge. These days, people running away from urban noise and pollution, continue to seek relief in the place which now goes by the name of Juwangsan.

It is the “only designated national park in the south-eastern region” and as I’m making my way south from Andong, it makes sense to stop by and explore this place a bit. But whether you’re in Andong or Seoul or Busan for that matter, Juwangsan Park is worth the time and effort. Apparently it used to be harder to get here as it’s far from the major cities but new roads have made it easier for motorists and buses to gain access.

The roads have probably been widened since my visit there in 2005 and more of the surrounding rice fields may have given way to the construction of more minbaks, yeogwans or hotels just outside the entrance into the national park. I can understand the temptation to give up the farming life to go into the tourism business – from the sun-dried faces of the halmeonis struggling to sell their persimmons, mushrooms, roasted rice and red peppers at the road-side near the bus terminal, it’s not easy to make a living in rural Korea. But at the same time, I’d be sorry to see those golden rice fields shrink or vanish completely.

It’s way before noon, but as my bus rolls into the bus terminal, I can see that the car park just outside the entrance to the park is already quite crowded with tour buses and cars. Groups of ajummas and ajeosshis clad in red wind-cheaters are sitting cross-legged in circles and picnicking on their kimchi and gimbaps. Just opposite the bus terminal and across the river, I find quite easily a minbak ( family-run guesthouse) with a very clean and spacious room ( for 20,000 won – 2005 rates). There’s also a camping ground beside the minbak village if you prefer to pitch a tent. The National Parks Information Centre is on the second floor of the bus terminal. It’s useful to stop there first to pick up maps, get weather updates and send off emails on PCs available here for tourists.

Source:
Juwangsan National Park Information brochure produced by the National Parks Authority
http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264150


For more info, contact: JNP office
Tel 054-873-0015
Email: chuwang@npa.or.kr
Homepage: www.npa.or.kr/chuwang

Seoraksan, Part 2: Beware - Traffic Jams on Mountain Roads

Autumn, 2004 – Heavy Traffic On Mountain Highway

Sometimes fortune favours the naïve traveller such as myself who had thought it wouldn’t be so hard to find a place to stay. It just so happened that in 2004, I had boarded and alighted from the same bus at Chuncheon as two ladies who ran a minbak in Anteo Homestay Village, a stone’s throw away from the bus stop in Osaek, a village in the southern part of Seoraksan. ( This was after I had changed from an express bus bound for Chuncheon, taken directly outside Incheon International Airport).

I had to pay 30,000 won per night for one basic room with no attached bathroom ( which was pretty steep, considering such rooms usually went for 20,000 won) but soon realised that room rates tended to balloon just ahead of the surging masses that made their way to Seoraksan during the weekends.

When I took another bus from Naksan into SEORAK –DONG, the traffic jam was even worse. Many passengers, including yours truly, got tired of being stuck on the road, and so opted to walk the last two kilometers. Incidentally, getting out of these places can be just as nerve-wracking and a test of one’s patience as the coaches and cars seem to choose the same hour for their exits from the national parks.