Here's how I spent two weeks in Korea chasing the fall foliage way back in 2005. Hopefully this will be useful to independent travellers when they plan their own trips to catch the autumn leaves this year. By no means am I suggesting that the leaves will be in the same condition around those dates - you need to check the
latest fall foliage schedule for that!
For more information on buses, click
here.
21 Oct - Friday
Bought and boarded from outside the
Incheon International Airport, a direct bus to Daejeon. Be careful not to buy the more expensive deluxe bus as the ordinary bus is sufficiently comfortable. BTW, Daejeon is quite attractive with its gingko-tree-lined avenues and promising sculptures in the public parks. Nice to see the leaves of the gingko trees have turned yellow already.
Had a smooth changeover at the bus terminal at Daejeon and got on
another bus bound for Gongju.
Found a yeogwan or inn near the marketplace; most stalls were closed already but still some were still selling enticing piles of recently harvested mushrooms, persimmons and mandarin oranges. Eateries within the market are usually open till the evening so I could enjoy my first meal of jjajangmyeon in a sikdang within the market.
22 Oct – Saturday
Caught
bus No 2 to Gapsa from the Gongju bus terminal near the marketplace. Too early for autumn foliage here but the rice fields are already golden and ready for harvesting.
Witnessed part of the celebrations for one of Gapsa’s patron monks were underway.
Short walk to waterfall.
Returned to Gongju to ask about Sunday city tour at the Tourist Information Centre. Staff there kindly let me join tour though I hadn’t made a booking. Stumbled upon the city mascot, i.e. a
sculpture of bear beyond the TIC.
23 Oct – Sunday
Joined the free
Gongju City Tour. It was conducted in Korean only though the
tour guide was able to give me very brief commentaries in English.
Morning stops of this
tour included the
Songsan-ri Tombs and the Gongju National Museum; admission to the latter was at an incredible deal of 400 won per person. Great weather - blue skies, sunny but cool. In the afternoon, the bus crossed river towards
Gyeryeongsan Pottery Village –
Natural History Museum was the last stop.
Remember: advance bookings are strongly recommended. Note - on other days, the tour may cover places like the Pansori Centre and the Folk Museum. Unfortunately the guard changing ceremony at the fortress is not conducted in late autumn and winter.
24 Oct – Monday
Did a morning exploration of
Gong-sanseong ( Fortress) near TIC before I boarded the bus for Daejeon Bus Terminal and changed to a bus for
Andong.
Met the head and host of
Jirye Art Village in Andong. He took all his guests to view the
house of Yi clan in Andong and also its
brick pagoda before we were driven to
JAV.
Passed orchards full of trees laden with apples. Trees with quinces and persimmons on the grounds of the JAV. Enjoyed great dinner and evening entertainment before turning in for the night in ondol-heated rooms. Beautiful starry night with crisp evening air.
25 Oct – Tuesday
Full day tour of Andong by car driven by the host of JAV. Visited Confucian Academy,
Hahoe Village,
Mask Museum ( 1500 won) and a Hanji factory; 2nd night at
JAV.
Red ivy on walls complimented red doors of the traditional school, while the gold of the gingko trees in Hahoe was impressive.
Eulalia waved gracefully on the banks of the river hugging Hahoe village.
Although it was cold, I opted for a naengmyeon lunch and though the taste was refreshing, I regretted not ordering a warm bowl of kimchi stew instead.
26 Oct – Wednesday
Got a ride from my JAV hostess to bus-stop bound for
Juwangsan National Park; 20,000 won minbak opposite bus terminal and TIC; bus and then 45 minute walk to
Jusanji ( pond); stunning views of autumnal tints of trees on the banks of the pond reflected in the waters.
Had to hitch a ride back; spent rest of evening gawking at the season’s goodies on sale outside shops leading up to park entrance – red bean in fish-shaped cakes, roasted chestnuts and eomuk. Grandmas were selling wild herbs, roasted rice or barley, dried persimmons at roadside stalls.
27 Oct – Thursday
Great walks at
Juwangsan Park. As the morning mists lifted, the array of rock formations played with my imagination.
Unfortunately autumn isn't the season to appreciate waterfalls - while
Juwangsan has more than its fair share of pokpos, the volume of water by this time had been reduced to undramatic proportions
But the beautiful autumn scenery in Juwangsan was ample compensation. Saw two ajummas enjoying a plate of acorn jelly while I was digging into my kalguksu after a long morning's walk.
28 Oct – Friday ( another full day of travelling)
Bought my bus ticket at the automated machine at the Juwangsan bus terminal for Daegu. Hopped onto a taxi to change from one bus terminal in Daegu to another on the other side of the city to get to
Suncheon, thanks to a tip from a friendly bus driver.
