For some reason, I don’t have the patience to stand and read the explanatory boards on site at places of interest. A great pity because I would have paid more attention to certain features while I was there. But now, in digging up more info for this blog and in retracing my steps, it’s like I’m revisiting South Korea again and hopefully this time, with a better appreciation of things.
Of course I knew Hwaeomsa was an important temple in the country but I didn’t realise how important it was. If I had done my homework before my 2005 trip, I would’ve learnt that royal families from the Goryeo to the Shilla and even the anti-Buddhist Joseon Dynasties had all supported this temple in more ways than just financially. This special patronage across the centuries can probably be traced back to the ancient pre-Buddhist belief that Jirisan was one of the five sacred mountains in the land. ( The others were: Taebaeksan in the north, Gyeryeongsan in the west, Tohamsan in the east and Buaksan in the centre)These sites of shamanistic rituals continued to be revered as homes of bodhisattvas when Buddhism spread throughout the country.
I wished I had read up earlier on Korean history, in particular, the sad episode when the Japanese invaded the country in the 16th century. I’d have appreciated better the legend about the invaders failed to cart off the temple bell of Hwaeomsa when the boat carrying it sank into the Seomjingang. I would’ve been able to do a mental connect-the-dots between the monks-turned-soldiers of Hwaeomsa with those who also traded prayer –beads for weapons in Jinju during the Imjin Wars. I’d have paid more attention to the name of Yunul or Ja Woon, the monk who became an officer under Admiral Lee Sun-sin and suggested to the great naval commander a new design for a battleship. This was the “first ironclad ship in world naval history” and it helped the Korean navy gain victory at sea.
Even after royal interest in Hwaeomsa began to fade during the latter part of the Joseon Dynasty with the rise of the Neo-Confucianists, funds for the temple continued, courtesy of the noblemen ( yangban) and even ordinary citizens. Of course, when poor farmers and humble ajummas became its main benefactors, the reconstruction plans for Hwaeomsa could not progress at the same pace as before. When it finally picked up again in the period between 1699 and 1703, again it depended on the royalty.
There is a charming story about how funds for the rebuilding of Jangnyukjoen Hall in Hwaeomsa came about:
“ Gyepa Seongneung, who, after being appointed by Byeogam to rebuild Jangnyukjeon Hall, was at a loss about how to get the resources to carry out his master's wishes. The monk prayed night after night, hoping Buddha would provide him the answer, when suddenly an old man appeared before him in a vision telling Gyepa not to despair. The old man commanded, ‘Go out to beg tomorrow and ask the first person you see to help you. Then you will have all you need.’
Following his instructions, the next morning Gyepa quietly left the temple grounds to go begging and soon came across a penniless old beggar woman. Gyepa was at a loss, but nevertheless, asked the woman for a donation. Dumbfounded by his request, the old woman listened intently to Gyepa explain his vision to her. Moved to tears, she vowed that upon her death, she would be reborn into the royal house and use her power to restore Hwaeomsa. She then threw herself into a nearby swamp and drowned.
Many years later in the capital, Gyepa was still begging for the money to rebuild Jangnyukjeon Hall when he came across the young daughter of the king, on an outing from the palace with her nurse. Though she had never met the monk, the princess was very excited to see him. She pleaded with him for his help as the princess had been born unable to open one of her hands.
Gyepa took her hand and inexplicably it opened for the first time ever. On the palm of her newly opened hand were the characters for Jangnyukjeon. Upon hearing the good news, King Sukjong called the priest to the palace and eager to hear his story. So touched was the king, that he pledged the necessary money to rebuild Jangnyukjeon Hall.”
sources:
http://english.yi-sunsin.com/03ship/02_01.jsp
http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/cms/resource/01/707401_image2_1.jp
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Korea-Gurye-Hwaeomsa_5009-06.JP
http://english.gurye.go.kr/english/jirisan/valleys.html
http://media.graniteschools.org/Curriculum/korea/hwaomsa.htmh
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Pyzf11LwE6fMD4R6o3boqQ
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/User:Waygugin/Sandbox
http://san-shin.net/Jiri-Hwaeom-1.html
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=822435
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