Around Korea By Bus In Two Weeks, Part 2

Here's the second part of my itinerary for my 2005 solo visit to Korea. For more information on buses, click here.

29 Oct – Saturday
Joined the free Suncheon City Tour by bus. Just ask at the Tourist Information booth just outside the train station. ( NOTE: Outside, not inside the train station!)

Beautiful sunny day in Nagan-eupseong Folk Village; a patch of eulalia and a stunning maple tree in the Dolmen Park were distractions from the main attractions i.e. prehistoric burial grounds.

The size of Songgwangsa was as impressive as the variety of autumnal colours on the temple grounds.With the bird flu scare, it was reassuring to see that precautions were even taken outdoors at Suncheon Bay.

30 Oct – Sunday
Got greedy and signed up for another tour on the Suncheon City Tour bus as I didn't want to pass up the chance to see Seonamsa.

31 Oct – Monday
Took bus near my yeogwan to Gurye and then changed for a local bus to Piagol Valley. A great walk would've been greater if I had the presence of mind to wear the right shoes. The result: I missed the chance to see the famous blood-red maples of Piagol.

The disappointment was off-set by the entertaining company of three kind gentlemen of Gurye. Their leader gave me a ride to Hwaomsa and showed me where I could find a place to stay outside this major temple in Jirisan National Park. Beautiful sunset.

1 Nov – Tuesday
Revisited Hwaom-sa in the early morning and saw the monks sweeping the lane leading up to the temple. An ancient pine tree, stone sculptures and stone lantern created the deepest impressions.

Around mid-day, I boarded a bus from the bus stop near my minbak to head for Gwangju. Changed to bus No 311 for Damyang. Enjoyed an unexpected tour of Damyang, courtesy of the local police!

One of Yun Sondo's Five Friends

As another farewell nod to Damyang in Jeollanam-do, I'd like to feature an excerpt from a poem by Yun Sŏndo (1587 - 1671). One of the most prominent poets in Korean literature, Yun has been compared to his contemporaries like Shakespeare, Basho and Cervantes. His poem, Song of Five Friends, is often quoted in anthologies of Korean poetry. Here are three versions of verse five from that poem.

The first version is by Larry Gross:

Look at this, it isn’t a tree, and it isn‘t a grass either;
How can it stand so erect when its insides are empty?

Bamboo, I praise you in all seasons, standing green no matter what

The second by Kevin O'Rourke comes from his book, The Book of Korean Shijo:

Neither wood nor grass;

who made it straight, why is it hollow?
So green all the year round; that's why I like it.

The third is my long-winded reworking ( with no regard for the technical rules of sijo composition):

Consider this: too skinny to be a tree, too thick to be grass;
You stand tall and strong, though insubstantial within.
Yet, despite the seasons, you remain steadfast in hue.

source:
http://thewordshop.tripod.com/Sijo/yunsondo.html
http://www.candlemaking.com/store/Bamboo-P2302C31.aspx?UserID=581291&SessionID=JvqIw2qWrguWYkTn4Ryr

More Armchair Travelling Around Damyang

Close-up of craftwork with bamboo

One last look at Damyang in Jeollanam-do before moving on to another part of Korea.

Click here for a video of Damyang, produced by KBS World Radio for the travel series, Touring Korea.
Look out for the jakbuin ( bamboo wife) and the bamboo rice.You can also listen to interviews with craftsmen who work with bamboo as well as interviews with local tourists to Damyang if you click on the sound icon on the top right hand corner.

source of pic:
Korean Cultural Insights ( KNTO publication)

Taking It Nice and Slow in Korea's " Slow City"

Here's my Damyang wish list ie. things I want to do if I'm lucky enough to revisit the place. Why I didn't do these the first time I was there? Put it down to poor timing, lousy decision-making after days of solo backpacking and being overwhelmed by the officers in blue. See previous posting.

Moreover, when I visited the place in 2005, Damyang  hadn't yet been proclaimed as a "Slow City".  A village called Samjicheon within the county only became the first place in Asia to be part of the "Cittaslow" movement in 2007. This movement is actually  a "global cultural trend aimed at improving the quality of life in small towns while resisting hectic and fast-paced urban lifestyles, and .... a cultural shift against anything done or made quickly."

So,in keeping with the spirit of the place. this is my dream itinerary:
 
1. The Damyang Bamboo Museum
Funny enough, I never got round to visit this place. I guess my assumption that there wouldn't be any explanatory boards in English put me off going there but that's a pathetic excuse as the artefacts and handicrafts can speak for themselves. So I have to be content with a bit more armchair travelling, thanks to this videoclip produced by KBS World Radio until I can find my way there.

2. Soswaewon Garden
This long-established tourist attraction showcases a Joseon-style garden complete with pavilions, water mills, falls and bridges. I'd pack a picnic lunch to savour the balance between nature and man-made beauty whilst trying to compose some sijo under the friendly shade of a pavilion.

3. Junokwon ( Bamboo Forest Theme Park)
I'd spend at least half a day here to look out for the three species of bamboo featured here ( Bunjuk, Wangdae, Maengjongjuk) and do some serious reading to learn more about these fabulous grasses beforehand. I'd linger till evening when they switch on the lights to create a different ambience for the bamboo groves here.

4. Gamagol Valley
I'd follow the Youngsan-gang ( river) into some of its deep valleys to look for the first and second Yongdam Waterfalls.

5. Geumseong ( Fortress) Wall
This fortress wall, built during the Goryeo Dynasty,  in the only one in the country with the complete set of doors  facing all the four main points of the compass. I'd need a full day to complete the 7,345 meter circuit and the top of the mountain  here is 603 m above sea level. The fortress links many ridges here and rewards hikers with great views of the lake.

6. Stay in Samjicheon
I'd soak in the atmosphere here, understand what the scent of bamboo is truly like, take part in making hangwa ( traditional sweets) and dyeing fabrics the traditional way while staying a few nights at this hanok village.

7. Find a restaurant which serves Juktongbap ( also known as daetongbab)
This is a local specialty - a meal of  rice, bamboo shoots and other vegetables steamed in the hollow of a bamboo.

Sources:

http://www.damyang.go.kr/eng/s02/01.html
http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/nation/2009/11/281_42833.html
• http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=70655
• http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/FU/FU_EN_15.jsp?cid=317001
• http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=309578
• http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=76416
• http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_4_12_15_2.jsp
• http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=815404
• http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=815387
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/41/Korean_cuisine-Juktongbap-02.jpg

Whirlwind Tour of Damyang in a Police Car, Part 2

Here's a brief run-down of my 2005 tour of  Damyang, courtesy of the local police. See previous posting.

Daenamugol Bamboo Park

This place is the location for a number of TV drama series like Damo but I didn’t know that when I visited this place in 2005. But one doesn’t really need to do a Hallyu pilgrimage to do justice to this place. Just wear comfortable walking shoes and read up beforehand about the different types of bamboo to appreciate this place more fully. It’s a balm to the senses to walk quietly along the narrow paths flanked by tall and slender bamboo. Have to keep reminding myself that they’re not trees but grasses that share similar genetic make-up with rice and wheat.

Songhac Experience Museum

Admission charges in 2005: Adults -2500 won & children - 1500 won
E-mail: songhac7179@naver.com

This small museum has a fairly engaging collection of artefacts - such as furniture, clothing, ceramics, kitchen and farming utensils and even turn of the century schoolbooks - that give the visitor an idea of what life was like for ordinary Koreans in times past. Displays are on two floors and there are some hands-on activities like brass rubbings and collecting imprints of seals.

Unfortunately, there weren’t any explanations in English so I had to use my imagination a fair bit to figure out what’s what. There were also larger exhibits around and on a small pond outside the main building but I didn’t have time to look around further.

Lake Damyang
If you’re lucky to be in a car or if you can rent one, the winding road alongside this pretty lake makes a great drive. If you have more time, you can also check out the Chuwol or Juwol Tourist Site, the camping grounds on Gamagol, and the Geumseong Fortress Wall.

Metasequoia Road
Click here for my earlier posting on this attraction.

Credit: Kiwistyle, dcinside

sources:www.damyang.go.kr
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=706556
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/FU/FU_EN_15.jsp?cid=317001

How I Ended Up In A Police Car in Damyang

Dear police officers in Damyang,

There I was, back in 2005, a bewildered tourist just looking for a yeogwan in Damyang. I'd just come from Hwaeomsa by bus and I looked in vain for the non-existent tourist information centre. Didn't realise that your town wasn't quite ready for tourists from abroad -  there was only a small information booth at the bus ticketing counter and there weren't any brochures in English ( unlike most other places I had visited in South Korea).

So after a quick mid-morning snack of kimchi burger ( couldn't taste any kimchi at all!), I popped into a few motels but they were too expensive. Next, I stopped by a motel which had a distinctively seedy air within and the bug-eyed appearance of the guy at the reception counter made me even more uneasy. I guess it was THAT which made me give in to the impulse to pop into the police post just round the corner to ask you guys if you could recommend a place to stay.

To my surprise, you weren't able to suggest confidently any particular minbak or yeogwan but one of you did hit upon the idea of a 24-hour jjimjilbang. I gathered from my very limited Korean that it wasn't so easy to get there on local buses ( or maybe you thought I wouldn't be able to find my way around). Whatever it was, I found myself escorted into the back of a patrol car and whisked away by two of your colleagues. You drove me to the jjimjilbang, Bamboo Health Land, and after some rapid exchanges with the girls at the reception counter there, it was settled that I would stay there the night.

But it was still early in the day and so you kindly decided to take me on a tour of your hometown. Obviously the crime rate in Damyang is/ was non-existent if you could spare the time to play tour guide. So I ended up for a good part of the day riding around Damyang at the back of a police car. I was so embarrassed that you even had to keep opening the door for me as it had no handles at the back! At one point, the two of you had to go off duty or attend to some task yet you still arranged for another patrol car to continue the impromptu tour.

I could kick myself now for not taking a photo with you in front of the police car as proof but at that point I was so bowled over by your kindness that I didn't dare impose on you any further.Not sure now how many people will believe this story but I think many who've travelled in Korea and encountered the spontaneous goodwill of your compatriots will understand.

So gentlemen, Gamsa-hamnida for your patience and hospitality! Thank you so much for a wonderful tour of your town. In the end, I will always remember Damyang, not for the lush bamboo groves but for all you officers who went beyond the call of duty in helping me out.

Warmest wishes,
Ajumma

More on my Damyang day-trip in future postings!

The Most Beautiful Road in South Korea?

Forget the tree-lined path on Nami Island. Go to Damyang and look for an avenue flanked by the granddaddy of those deciduous conifers, also known as Dawn Redwoods. Almost 40 years ago, 600 metasequoias were planted along a 6.5 km stretch of road (including Routes 15 and 24 ) on the edge of this small town which is perhaps more famous for its bamboo groves.

It's been voted a number of times by the Ministry of Construction and Transportation, no less, as the most beautiful road in Korea.  The trees have grown to a height of about 20 meters. In springtime and summer, they form a green canopy for drivers, cyclists and pedestrians to admire. In winter, the bare branches are laced with snow and create a different romantic mood.

                                            Credit: Kiwistyle, dcinside

The road has now become a celebrity of sorts since it was featured in the hit movie, "Splendid Vacation" as well as in "Traces of Love". It's also appeared in many commercials. Small wonder then that it attracts more than 500 visitors daily. More recently, Yoon Eun-hye's character in the KBS drama, My Fair Lady, learnt to ride a bicycle along this road.

I went to Damyang in search of bamboo trees, not expecting this lovely, evocative avenue. Riding at the back of the police car along this stretch and seeing the dignified trees lined up like some official welcoming committee made me feel very much like a VIP treated to a special local delicacy.

 
BTW, if you still insist on going to Nami Island, check out this video.

Some Fascinating Facts About Dawn Redwoods ( (Metasequoia glyptostroboides) So Far:
A "living fossil", the redwood goes back to prehistoric times. There are fossils of the dawn redwood which are thought to be 200 million years old.

At first it was thought to be extinct but then was rediscovered in Hubei Province, central China in 1941. The find was described as the botanical equivalent of finding a living dinosaur.Seeds were collected and passed onto garden enthusiasts who grew them in their gardens. At one point it grew to such numbers that the trees were even axed to make pulp. More recently though, the specie has seen hard times again; this time the threats come from rice cultivation, over-logging and  "inbreeding depression" which makes it less hardy.

Photograph courtesy President and Fellows of Harvard College

Its slender leaves change  from green to gold to reddish-brown before falling off in the winter. The bark of its thick trunk can develop a brown or orange tint.

It's related to the giant sequoia (Sequoiadendron giganteum) found in North America and the lifespan of the oldest specimens are around 600 years.

Redwood bonsai

It's not simply eye candy. Scientists in Korea Advanced Institute of Science and Technology, Daejeon have found  extracts from the tree may be very useful in dealing with tumours.
Click here for an enthusiastic description of this tree.

Sources:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metasequoia

http://www.flickr.com/photos/kaychae/3964423722/in/photostream/

http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_4_12_15_2.jsp

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Metasequoia_glyptostroboides_Avenue.JPG

http://www.frommers.com/destinations/damyang/4004010002.html

http://www.kimchi.gwangju.kr/eng/festival/05_07-travel2.html

http://english.kbs.co.kr/life/travel/region/jeonbuk/1350923_11647.html

http://www.koreaherald.co.kr/NEWKHSITE/data/html_dir/2009/07/14/200907140046.asp
http://treesandshrubs.about.com/od/commontrees/p/DawnRedwood.htm
http://betterbonsai.blogspot.com/2008/01/dawn-redwood-bonsai.html
http://www.bonsaiwest.com/gallery/masterpieceBonsai/images/redwood.jpg
http://environment.nationalgeographic.com/environment/photos/chinese-plants/dawn-redwood.html
http://www.educationalfossils.com/educational-fossils/metasequoia/metasequoia-M.jpg
http://www.icogitate.com/~tree/dawn.redwood.timeline.ac10.htm