Remembering Hwaeomsa With Leftover Regrets

Reading an article by Roger Dix on his recent visit to Hwaeomsa put me into a "wish-I-was-there-again" mood. This temple located on the foothills of Jirisan is worth a visit and I'm still sorry I didn't check out if there was a templestay there.

I'm also still sorry I was in a won-pinching frame of mind when I decided against buying souvenir reproductions of the famous stone lantern.

I'm sorry I didn't stay long enough in the place to do some exploring of the trails behind the temple.

Related postings:

What I Wish I Knew About Hwaeomsa
Great Stone Lantern of Hwaeomsa
Grand Ole Halbeoji of A Tree in Hwaeomsa
Gamsa-Hamnida To Three Gentlemen of Gurye


sources:
http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/art/2010/12/144_78179.html

How I Ended Up In A Police Car in Damyang

Dear police officers in Damyang,

There I was, back in 2005, a bewildered tourist just looking for a yeogwan in Damyang. I'd just come from Hwaeomsa by bus and I looked in vain for the non-existent tourist information centre. Didn't realise that your town wasn't quite ready for tourists from abroad -  there was only a small information booth at the bus ticketing counter and there weren't any brochures in English ( unlike most other places I had visited in South Korea).

So after a quick mid-morning snack of kimchi burger ( couldn't taste any kimchi at all!), I popped into a few motels but they were too expensive. Next, I stopped by a motel which had a distinctively seedy air within and the bug-eyed appearance of the guy at the reception counter made me even more uneasy. I guess it was THAT which made me give in to the impulse to pop into the police post just round the corner to ask you guys if you could recommend a place to stay.

To my surprise, you weren't able to suggest confidently any particular minbak or yeogwan but one of you did hit upon the idea of a 24-hour jjimjilbang. I gathered from my very limited Korean that it wasn't so easy to get there on local buses ( or maybe you thought I wouldn't be able to find my way around). Whatever it was, I found myself escorted into the back of a patrol car and whisked away by two of your colleagues. You drove me to the jjimjilbang, Bamboo Health Land, and after some rapid exchanges with the girls at the reception counter there, it was settled that I would stay there the night.

But it was still early in the day and so you kindly decided to take me on a tour of your hometown. Obviously the crime rate in Damyang is/ was non-existent if you could spare the time to play tour guide. So I ended up for a good part of the day riding around Damyang at the back of a police car. I was so embarrassed that you even had to keep opening the door for me as it had no handles at the back! At one point, the two of you had to go off duty or attend to some task yet you still arranged for another patrol car to continue the impromptu tour.

I could kick myself now for not taking a photo with you in front of the police car as proof but at that point I was so bowled over by your kindness that I didn't dare impose on you any further.Not sure now how many people will believe this story but I think many who've travelled in Korea and encountered the spontaneous goodwill of your compatriots will understand.

So gentlemen, Gamsa-hamnida for your patience and hospitality! Thank you so much for a wonderful tour of your town. In the end, I will always remember Damyang, not for the lush bamboo groves but for all you officers who went beyond the call of duty in helping me out.

Warmest wishes,
Ajumma

More on my Damyang day-trip in future postings!

A Grand Ole Halbeoji of A Tree in Hwaeomsa

Wooden temples and stone architecture aren't the only things in Hwaeomsa that can get your attention. Found this lovely old pine on the temple grounds and spent some time under its comforting shade. Love its height, texture,  the radiating pattern of its branches and especially the thought that it's been around for a long, long while.

Who's Among the Lions?

What I Wished I Knew About Hwaeomsa Before I Went There, Part 4

If you walk behind Gakhwangjeon Hall and climb up 108 steps to reach the Terrace of Filial Piety, you’ll find a clearing with camellia trees and National Treasure No 35. The Four Lions Three-Storey Stone Pagoda is also the oldest relic in Hwaeomsa (temple), supposedly erected in the 8th century by Yon-gi.

This stone sculpture is noteworthy for a few reasons. Each face of the lower base has relief carvings of heavenly musicians on the lute, harp or mouth organ and dancers. Above them stand four lions on stone lotuses. It was the first time lions were used as part of the design. These symbolise the power of Buddha and if you look carefully at the expressions of each creature, you may discover that the mouths get wider and wider as you walk clockwise around the pagoda.

Right in the centre, among the lions, there’s a sculpture of a human figure – but its identity remains obscure. Is it a statue of a priest or a nun or even the mother of Yon-gi, the founder of the temple?

A stone lantern opposite this pagoda has another stone figure with one knee bent as if making an offering ( a cup of tea, perhaps) or is it supposed to represent Yongi honouring his mother?

Either way, it’s a peaceful spot to soak in the atmosphere, enjoy a little picnic, reflect on filial piety or just be thankful for all the great moms out there.


Sources:
http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/cms/resource/01/707401_image2_1.jpg

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Korea-Gurye-Hwaeomsa_5009-06.JPG
http://english.gurye.go.kr/english/jirisan/valleys.html
http://media.graniteschools.org/Curriculum/korea/hwaomsa.htmh
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Pyzf11LwE6fMD4R6o3boqQ
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/User:Waygugin/Sandbox
http://san-shin.net/Jiri-Hwaeom-1.html
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=822435

The Great Stone Lantern of Hwaeomsa

Hwaeomsa in Jirisan National Park supposedly has the highest stone lantern of its kind in the world. Standing at 6.4m, it was the largest stone lantern of its kind ( before the 1960s). It's National Treasure No. 12. Most stone lanterns have an octogonal-shaped  column but this one is fashioned after an hour-glass, a popular style during the Shilla Dynasty.

Stone lanterns have a symbolic function - representing the path to enlightenment but they may have also been used in earlier days to provide some light to monks making their way in the pre-dawn darkness to the main hall, Gakhwangjeon,  for early chanting sessions. I'd like to think they still place a candle within it on special days at least instead of simply using electricity. The temple grounds here apparently are a sight to behold when they celebrate Buddha's birthday with a lantern festival.

Ironically, I picked a bad time to be virtuous and to watch how I spent my won when I went to the gift shop at Hwaeomsa. Shouldn't have curbed the inclination to splurge on a pretty gold-plated book mark shaped after the famous stone lantern here.

Sources:

http://www.ocp.go.kr:9000/ne_dasencgi/full.cgi?v_kw_str=&v_db_query=A4%3A36&v_db=2&v_doc_no=00000012&v_dblist=2&v_start_num=1&v_disp_type=4
http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264128
http://www.san-shin.net/Jiri-Hwaeom-1.html
http://www.heritage.go.kr/eng/tou/tou_the_11_sce.jsp

It's the Biggest, It's Wooden, It's Buddhist: It's Gakhwangjeon

What  I Wished I Knew About Hwaeomsa Before I Went There, Part 2

Gakhwangjeon Hall ( Hall of the Enlightened Lord); National Treasure No 67

Gakhwanjeon Hall in Hwaeomsa ( temple) is one of the largest Buddhist structures made of wood in Korea. Built to replace a similar structure which was razed to the ground during the Japanese invasion , its reconstruction was completed in 1703. Its stone base, dating back to the Shilla Dynasty, was intended for another hall. Look out for the triangular stone railings which are typical of the period.

Photo: Byunggu Yu  

From outside, it looks like a two –storey building but as you enter, you find yourself in a single large hall with a very high, panelled ceiling. The dimensions are apparently quite unusual for Korean temple buildings.

 A single window high up on one wall on the supposed second floor, allows light to stream in to light up the faces of the seven large gold statues of Buddha and bodhisattvas on the altar.

Behind them hangs a tapestry which was painted in 1860 and kept there to express hope for the longevity of the royal family.

If you look below the statues, you may be able to spot some fragments of the entire Avatamsaka Sutra that was carved on granite plates on the walls. Sadly, most of them were destroyed during the Imjun Wars.

sources:

1 http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/cms/resource/01/707401_image2_1.jp

2 http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Korea-Gurye-Hwaeomsa_5009-06.JP

3. http://english.gurye.go.kr/english/jirisan/valleys.htm

4. http://media.graniteschools.org/Curriculum/korea/hwaomsa.htm

5.  http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Pyzf11LwE6fMD4R6o3boq

6. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/User:Waygugin/Sandbox

7. http://san-shin.net/Jiri-Hwaeom-1.htm

8. http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=822435

9. http://www.cnu.daejeon.kr/AWA/Architecture%20in%20Korea/KA-Traditional%20Building-Jeonnam-01.htm

10. http://www.ocp.go.kr:9000/ne_pro_search/image_list.cgi?kdcd=11&asno=03010000&ctcd=36

11. http://www.flickr.com/photos/backpackjack/2501674384/

What I Wished I Knew About Hwaeomsa Before I Went There, Part 1

Part 1 – The Many Benefactors of Hwaeomsa

For some reason, I don’t have the patience to stand and read the explanatory boards on site at places of interest. A great pity because I would have paid more attention to certain features while I was there. But now, in digging up more info for this blog and in retracing my steps, it’s like I’m revisiting South Korea again and hopefully this time, with a better appreciation of things.

Of course I knew Hwaeomsa was an important temple in the country but I didn’t realise how important it was. If I had done my homework before my 2005 trip, I would’ve learnt that royal families from the Goryeo to the Shilla and even the anti-Buddhist Joseon Dynasties had all supported this temple in more ways than just financially. This special patronage across the centuries can probably be traced back to the ancient pre-Buddhist belief that Jirisan was one of the five sacred mountains in the land. ( The others were: Taebaeksan in the north, Gyeryeongsan in the west, Tohamsan in the east and Buaksan in the centre)These sites of shamanistic rituals continued to be revered as homes of bodhisattvas when Buddhism spread throughout the country.

I wished I had read up earlier on Korean history, in particular, the sad episode when the Japanese invaded the country in the 16th century. I’d have appreciated better the legend about the invaders failed to cart off the temple bell of Hwaeomsa when the boat carrying it sank into the Seomjingang. I would’ve been able to do a mental connect-the-dots between the monks-turned-soldiers of Hwaeomsa with those who also traded prayer –beads for weapons in Jinju during the Imjin Wars. I’d have paid more attention to the name of Yunul or Ja Woon, the monk who became an officer under Admiral Lee Sun-sin and suggested to the great naval commander a new design for a battleship. This was the “first ironclad ship in world naval history” and it helped the Korean navy gain victory at sea.

Even after royal interest in Hwaeomsa began to fade during the latter part of the Joseon Dynasty with the rise of the Neo-Confucianists, funds for the temple continued, courtesy of the noblemen ( yangban) and even ordinary citizens. Of course, when poor farmers and humble ajummas became its main benefactors, the reconstruction plans for Hwaeomsa could not progress at the same pace as before. When it finally picked up again in the period between 1699 and 1703, again it depended on the royalty.

There is a charming story about how funds for the rebuilding of Jangnyukjoen Hall in Hwaeomsa came about:
“ Gyepa Seongneung, who, after being appointed by Byeogam to rebuild Jangnyukjeon Hall, was at a loss about how to get the resources to carry out his master's wishes. The monk prayed night after night, hoping Buddha would provide him the answer, when suddenly an old man appeared before him in a vision telling Gyepa not to despair. The old man commanded, ‘Go out to beg tomorrow and ask the first person you see to help you. Then you will have all you need.’


Following his instructions, the next morning Gyepa quietly left the temple grounds to go begging and soon came across a penniless old beggar woman. Gyepa was at a loss, but nevertheless, asked the woman for a donation. Dumbfounded by his request, the old woman listened intently to Gyepa explain his vision to her. Moved to tears, she vowed that upon her death, she would be reborn into the royal house and use her power to restore Hwaeomsa. She then threw herself into a nearby swamp and drowned.


Many years later in the capital, Gyepa was still begging for the money to rebuild Jangnyukjeon Hall when he came across the young daughter of the king, on an outing from the palace with her nurse. Though she had never met the monk, the princess was very excited to see him. She pleaded with him for his help as the princess had been born unable to open one of her hands.


Gyepa took her hand and inexplicably it opened for the first time ever. On the palm of her newly opened hand were the characters for Jangnyukjeon. Upon hearing the good news, King Sukjong called the priest to the palace and eager to hear his story. So touched was the king, that he pledged the necessary money to rebuild Jangnyukjeon Hall.”

sources:
http://english.yi-sunsin.com/03ship/02_01.jsp
http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/cms/resource/01/707401_image2_1.jp
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Korea-Gurye-Hwaeomsa_5009-06.JP
http://english.gurye.go.kr/english/jirisan/valleys.html
http://media.graniteschools.org/Curriculum/korea/hwaomsa.htmh
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Pyzf11LwE6fMD4R6o3boqQ
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/User:Waygugin/Sandbox
http://san-shin.net/Jiri-Hwaeom-1.html
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=822435

A Park for all Seasons – Introduction to Jirisan National Park

One can keep revisiting Jirisan and yet not go back to the same spots as there are so many places to explore during the different seasons.

In the spring of 2007, I was fortunate enough to be stuck in a traffic jam from Hadong to Ssanggyesa in the south-eastern corner of Jirisan. The 6 km road lined with cherry trees is a wonder to behold during spring. If you’re really into spring flowers, you can also check out Sangwi Village, a.k.a. Ssansuyu Village which is full of bushes with tiny yellow flowers. I was content to do a long ( by my very humble standards) walk in one tiny corner of Jirisan when I follow a trail past Ssanggyesa, Hadaong to find the Bulilpokpo ( Falls).

However, if you enjoy waterfalls, it’s better to go in summer when there’s more rainfall and more action going on in rivers and falls. The Surak waterfall, 6 km from the hot spring resort, is at its best during the hot season and if you go there, let me know if there’s any truth to the claim in the brochure that its water is like “silver powder from the skies”. Summertime’s great as well for those who enjoy fishing and white-water rafting on the Sumjingang.

Two years before, my original plan to go directly from Suncheon to Hwaeomsa via Gurye was altered slightly at the suggestion of a friendly bus-driver to do a day-tour of Piagol Valley. I’d almost forgotten the recommendation I’d read earlier in one KNTO travel guide: “The twelve kilometers of Baemsagol Valley are famous for the autumnal leaves contrasting with deep blue ponds, and that of Piagol Valley is said to be as red as blood.” How could I resist such a promise of Gothic proportions?

Although Jirisan isn’t the place for skiing or to relive one’s Winter Sonata fantasies ( you can do both at Yongpyong Resort), it still gets some snow. So, if you like hiking with the crisp crunch of freshly fallen snow beneath your feet, you can try some of the trails in Jirisan National Park which may still be open during winter. Check with the local National Parks office.

One fantasy of mine is to live here for one year to check out the top ten scenic spots ( as voted by the Jirisan Mountains Alpine Association). They are, arranged here, according to what I’d like to see for each season:

1. The royal azaleas at Seseok in spring

2. The view of the sunrise from the peak of Cheonwangbong

3. The sea of clouds from Nogodan – for its azaleas in spring, day lilies in summer, snow-capped trees in winter

4. The clear stream of Sumjin – also in spring or summer

5. Bulil waterfalls – probably best seen in summer when the rains are heaviest and the falls most dramatic

6. The Chilsun or Chilseon Valley – in summer

7. The red maples of Jhikjoen in autumn

8. The full moon seen from Byukso
9. The Banya sunset

10. Yeonha fairyland


Source:
1. http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264283
2. http://jiri.knps.or.kr/eng/