Information Booths For Fall Foliage

Don't where to find the autumn leaves in Korea? Never fear - some temporary info booths have been set up to guide visitors to the most beautiful instances of fall foliage in at least one national park. ( see below). It's not clear, though, if any or how much information will be available to English-speaking tourists.

I really don't know if there's such a need for these booths. Why can't the info ( if there's anything new in the first place) be made available in the current Tourist Information offices or the National Parks offices and even better still, the websites? The staff in such places didn't seem terribly overwhelmed with visitors even when I visited them during the peak periods. It would save Korean taxpayers a lot of money if the KNTO and NPA pooled resources to answer these basic questions which most tourists want to know:via already established channels:

1. How reliable is the fall foliage schedule issued by the KMA?
2. How will the daily changes in the weather affect the colours of the autumn leaves?
3. Which spots in the various national parks are particularly well-known for maple colours, for gingko colours or for a mixture of reds, golds, browns and greens?

Taken from the KNTO Website:
"A temporary ‘Foliage Information Center’ has opened near the entrance of Naejangsan National Park (and a few other locations around Jeongeup City) to assist seasonal visitors who’ve come to see the fall leaves. The autumn changing of the leaves is a much celebrated seasonal event in Korea and with the leaves of Naejangsan expected to reach their peak around the first weekend of November, preparations are in full swing.


In an effort to provide visitors with information on when and where to enjoy the brilliant colors, Jeongeup Municipal Office will be operating three fall information centers until November 15th. Visitors to the information centers can receive information about major tourist attractions and local delicacies (etc.) in addition to information on the leaves themselves.

‘Foliage Information Centers’ are located in the Sculpture Park near the Naejangsan entrance, near the Naejang IC, and near the Jeongeup IC of Honam Expressway. Each center operates daily from 9:00 to 18:00.

*Depending on the number of visitors and fall foliage conditions, centers may close as early as Nov 10th.


source: http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/FU/FU_EN_15.jsp?cid=1123148

Autumn's All-Too-Brief Lease?

This is just a short record so that I have some basis for comparison for next year. My suspicion that autumn is getting shorter seems to be confirmed but let's see what next week is like.

Update: Thankfully my suspicion was ungrounded. Those in Korea enjoyed quite a long autumn in 2010.

Maples leaves have already turned red in Namsam in Seoul.

 Golden gingko leaves are starting to fall in Gangwon-do.

Is it autumn or winter in Korea already?

Temperatures plunged to sub-zero levels this week.

sources:

Chosun Ilbo and Korea Times

Quintessential Autumn Colours of Korea

Started out posting  photos of what I thought were the quintessential images of winter in Korea. It soon developed into a mini-series of sorts on this blog with two other postings on spring and summer. To complete this set, here are some pictures of my favourite autumnal colours  in Korea in no particular order.

1. The cosmos is one of the earliest heralds of autumn altlhough it actually starts to bloom in late summer. This wild flower comes in various colours and it also provides inspiration for poets like Ko-Un. Thanks to Bro. Anthony for this translation.

Autumn from Young People's Songs for the Four Seasons

Descending from a train, at every rural station
banks of cosmos were blossoming amidst the coughing
and from the heavens your eyelids were drooping.
As night grew deeper, the stars gave birth.
On an empty table heaped with your death
I happened to receive a brief letter.
A letter is always a death, and a life.
Insects in autumn meadows die splendidly only if leaves are
blown from the trees, not simply falling,
and likewise falls the leaf of your fingerprint voice

Click here for where you can admire cosmos a.k.a. 코스모스    or koseumoseu in Korea.

2. The  cluster amaryllis or kkotmureut blooms around Chuseok  in September. A powder extracted from the dried bulbs of thee crimsom flowers has been used to preserve Buddhist paintings so you can expect to see these on temple grounds such as Seonamsa.  

3. The ghostly beauty of the graceful silver grass will be celebrated throughout October in the Mindungsan Mountain Silvergrass Festival in Jeongseon, Gangwon-do.

4. The size of this photo doesn't do justice to the striking view of persimmons hanging like tiny orange lanterns on bare boughs. The appearance of birds must have been an added bonus for the photographer, Robert.

5. Once read that little compares to the ethereal beauty of a field of buckwheat flowers in the evening light. Apparently its scent is also another autumnal pleasure to savour. The 12th Hyoseok Cultural Festival was held recently in Bongpyeong, the birthplace of author, Lee Hyoseok who gained fame for his short story, "When the Buckwheat Flowers Bloom". I've read one version of it and don't really understand why it resonates so strongly with Koreans. Perhaps one has to be Korean to appreciate fully the story but fortunately one doesn't need to be of any particular nationality to enjoy these flowers.

6. A pity that I could never place white chrysanthemums to decorate the home as my culture has the same practice as the Koreans in using them for funeral wreaths. According to one source, Koreans began to use them for mourning rites at the end of Joseon Kingdom in the late 19th century. While I love the austere purity of the white blooms, the flowers traditionally stood for ``nobility'' and ``solemnity'' and the white variety is in keeping with the Korean tradition of wearing mourning clothes made of white hemp. Still, Koreans are free to celebrate with chrysanthemums in other colours in festivals such as the Masan Chrysanthemum Festival.

7. Don't bother asking me which  is my favourite autumn tree as I would always be torn between the gingko tree ( eunhaeng namu ) and the maple tree. I've heard of people cursing the stink emanating from gingko nuts when they are accidentally stepped on  but I just love the lovely gold and fan-shape of the gingko leaves. For some fancilful stories about this tree which proved hardy enough to survive the Hiroshima blasts, click here.

8. There's good reason why KNTO promotes Maple Korea but I've said it before and I'll say it again here. I worry how about global warming is playing havoc with the carotenoids and anthocyanins ( part of the chemistry and metabolic system of the trees that explain the change of colour). Just hope my feat that autumn is getting shorter and shorter in Korea is unfounded.

9. The mellow browns of metasequoias such as those flanking a road in Damyang or a lane in Nami-seon have a regal air about them. Click here for an earlier posting on these impressive trees which look even more awesome in autumn.

10.  Was wondering how to conclude this list - should I focus on the jujube or red date plant or ginseng? But I stumbled upon a website with these pretty yellow-white flowers of the green tea bushes which apparently bloom between September and November. Had never seen these before but I like drinking green tea more than ginseng so the debate ended there.


Sources:
http://english.chosun.com/site/data/html_dir/2010/10/12/2010101200361.html

http://english.chosun.com/site/data/html_dir/2010/10/09/2010100900322.html
http://english.chosun.com/site/data/html_dir/2010/09/13/2010091300346.html
http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2926332
http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/nation/2010/10/115_73477.html
http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/nation/2010/10/115_73391.html
http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2926990
http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2926950
http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/news/news_photo_detail.htm?No=15329¤t_page=2
http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2926536
http://www.korea.net/exploring.do
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_2_1.jsp?cid=697123
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_2_1.jsp?cid=293025
http://maryeats.com/2006/10/21/the-truth-about-persimmons/
http://www.thekitchn.com/thekitchn/beverage/recipe-sujeonggwa-korean-persimmon-punch-075162
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Korea-Andong-Hahoe_Folk_Village-Persimmon_tree_and_birds-01.jpg
http://discoverkorea.co.kr/bbs/view.php?id=news&page=2&sn1=&divpage=1&sn=off&ss=on&sc=on&select_arrange=hit&desc=asc&no=22
http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=260977
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/FU/FU_EN_15.jsp?cid=1101200
http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/nation/2010/09/113_45777.html
http://www.korea.net/detail.do?guid=28314
http://www.thewip.net/contributors/2008/08/south_asias_oldest_tree_specie.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Autumn_leaf_color

Around Korea By Bus In Two Weeks, Part 3

Here is the third and final part of my travel itinerary for my 2005 visit. For more information on buses, click here.

2 Nov – Wednesday
In Gwangju but it's all business - sent off emails and changed travellers’ cheques in bank; then walked to the Gwangju bus terminal to head towards Naejangsan. Would you believe it? Traffic jams in the provinces. Long stream of tour buses and cars all clogging up narrow countryside lane leading to entrance of Naejangsan Park. But non-drivers could get busy with their cameras even before reaching the park as the maple trees flanking the lane were already looking very photogenic in their autumn finery.

Very noisy though with all the honking of tour buses and excited chatter of groups of walkers who were about to start their walks or who had just finished their walks and were celebrating in the various restaurants. Found a place to stay in the Happy Days minbak near the main tourist village here, far from the hustle and bustle.

3 Nov – Thursday
Full day of walking in the Naejangsan National Park. Mountains, a cable car ride, trees, temples, streams, waterfalls, pavilions - what more could I ask for? There's even a "bridge of love"! For more on Naejangsan,  click here.

4 Nov – Friday
Boarded a bus to Jongeup and then changed buses for Seonunsan; lucky to be allowed an informal temple stay at Dosolam, about an hour's walk away from Seonunsan's main temple. Stunning autumn foliage here. Though there aren't as many maple trees as in Naejangsan, the colours are really rich and the fallen leaves have created a Persian carpet of sorts on the ground.

5 Nov – Saturday
Explored area around Dosolam at Seonunsan Provincial Park; surprised to stumble upon two spots used for the outdoor shooting of scenes for the popular MBC drama, Jewel in the Palace or Daejanggeum.

The first was a cave and the second,  a cliff - both related to death scenes in the drama series.
Also had the privilege of having tea with some seonims in a nearby hermitage.

6 Nov – Sunday
Seonim persuaded the driver of a private chartered bus of local tourists to let me join them as it was bound for Seoul. But there were a few unexpected stopovers.
First, the bus carrying Buddhist devotees stopped by the beautiful temple at Geumsansa. The three-tiered temple is particularly stunning in winter but I was glad to see Geumsan-sa in autumn anyway.

Next, surprise - I got to revisit Naejangsan but sadly the overnight rain had turned the maple trees into sodden dismal damsels in distress unlike the splendid show-offs from a few days earlier. What a difference a few days make - timing is everything.

On the way back to Seoul, we were entertained with karaoke on board. Even the driver took part.
Spent my last night in a Silloam Sauna, a jjimjilbang or public bathhouse with sauna and other facilities near Seoul Station.

7 Nov – Monday
Boarded bus near Seoul Station to get to the Incheon International Airport and spend a fair bit of time shopping in the supermarket in the basement and checking out the Cultural Experience Corner before my flight home.

Earlier Postings:
Around Korea By Bus in Two Weeks, Part 1
Around Korea By Bus in Two Weeks, Part 2

sources:
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=824869&nearBy=food&
http://saunasinkorea.blogspot.com/2010/03/seoul-ktx-station-silloam-sauna-jjimjil.html
http://www.silloamsauna.com/site_en/main/main.asp
http://www.silloamsauna.com/site_en/sub1/sub1_05.asp
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=626600

Footnotes for Naejangsan, Part 6

Here are some tips for visitors to Naejangsan National Park:

Naejangsan National Parks Visitors Centre above

 1. Check out the National Parks Visitor Centre ( not to be confused with the National Parks Information Centre) - tourists can make use of the free internet access to email friends and family about how their feet are killing them! For more info on getting there and staying there, click here.

Naejangsan National Parks Information Centre

 2. Get free map which shows topography of the park and information from the friendly staff at the NP Visitors Centre  here before setting off on your walk. I regret assuming that it was beyond my ability and fitness level to attempt to reach one of the lowest peaks here and denied myself the opportunity to brag about it to friends.

 Study the contours and gradients and check your feet before heading for the peaks and ridges.
3. Forget about looking for waterfalls in autumn/ fall. They're not terribly exciting as this is the dry spell. As a matter of fact, it can be so dry that the locals practise water rationing at times so check with the ajumma if before you take a shower in your yeogwan or minbak.

4. Check with the meteorological department - I was at NNP a few days before the autumn leaves were expected to turn 100% red and was lamenting that I only saw them at 60 % of their full maple glory. By a stroke of luck, I found myself back in Naejangsan a few days later, when they were supposed to reach the peak of their scarlet hues according to the autumn foliage schedule and guess what happens? It rains and pours and many of the poor dampong drop to the ground, limp and despondent.

source:
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/FU/FU_EN_15.jsp?cid=808007
http://naejang.knps.or.kr/Naejangsan_eng/intro/facilities.html

One Man's Photo Opportunity is Another Man's Dreaded Labour

"I HATE maple leaves!", a Korean friend declared emphatically sometime back while we were talking about autumn. Turns out while doing his national service, he was given the task of sweeping the grounds of his barracks. Apparently there were a number of maple trees there that shed their leaves with scant concern for his never-ending labours. One person's delight in autumnal foliage is another's dreaded daily grind. Just one example of the Ying-Yang tension (or is it balance?) of life in Korea, I guess. Or is it a case of too much of a good thing? Love maple and ginkgo leaves but I certainly wouldn't want to be in this gentleman's shoes. Still remember grumbling each time I had to sweep the fallen leaves from the mango tree in our tiny garden.

Credits:
Yonhap News
http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/news/news_photo_detail.htm?No=13878