To Olle OR Dulle?

This is a promise to myself. As soon as I can, I’ll head for the hills. In South Korea, that is. First, a quick own-up: I like walking but I’m not a great nor good walker. Still, I love the low humidity, the autumn colours and very accessible walking paths in the ROK. Question is: given the usual shortage of time and won, a hard choice is imminent. Do I do the Dulle or the Olle?

The Dulle Trail in Jirisan ( source: JoongAng Ilbo)

Been following Steve Oberhauser’s account of his marathon exploration of all the hiking trails in Jeju known as the Olle Trails ( link) in The Jeju Weekly. I’d like to follow some of his footsteps ( but definitely not his Spartan diet ) but for the moment, I’m still waiting for him to complete and evaluate all twenty-one trails on the island before deciding which one is safer, easier and still rewarding scenic-wise for this ajumma.

There’s another Dulle Trail on the mainland in Jirisan National Park that looks immediately promising –that’s the trail between Jucheon in Jeollabukdo and Sancheong in Jeollanamdo. While I’m not likely to complete the full 70-km course, it’s supposed to be “perfect for those who are looking for a relaxing walk rather than a steep mountain climb”

OR if I’m really strapped for time….

Bukhansan Dulle Trails

I could attempt a teeny section of the 44 km- Dulle Trail around Bukhansan near Seoul. Apparently it’s a wooden walkway that’s easy on the legs, knees and heart. But if I still feel as if the stretch is taking its toll on my never-been-in-decent-condition body, I can look forward to the 35 benches along this novice-friendly trail.

Smartphone owners are even more spoilt as apps on the Andriod platform are available for five trails out of the 13 Bukhansan Dullegil trails. You can get easy access to maps, side trails information and interesting explanations about highlights along the courses. The information is available in English, Korean and Japanese. Check out the official website of Korea National Park Organization (www.knps.or.kr) and Bukhansan Dullegil (http://ecotour.knps.or.kr/dulegil/index.asp).


But if you think all this is too lame for you, then check out the Haeparang Road, once it’s completed in 2014. This 688-km trail will stretch from Busan all the way up to Goseong’s Unification Observatory near the DMZ. A perhaps over-enthusiastic spokesperson for the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism even indicated to the press that the trail could even reach Russia’s Vladivostock in the future.


Sources:
http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2926536
http://www.koreaherald.com/lifestyle/Detail.jsp?newsMLId=20100915000631
http://www.panoramio.com/photo/51299295  joey janzen olle_jeju1
http://android-apps.com/applications/travel-local/bukhansan-dulle-gil/
http://www.jejuweekly.com/news/articleList.html?sc_sub_section_code=S2N63
http://ecotour.knps.or.kr/dulegil/index_e.asp
http://eckorea.ecplaza.net/news/13/48405/seoul_to_create_a_200kilometer.html

One of Yun Sondo's Five Friends

As another farewell nod to Damyang in Jeollanam-do, I'd like to feature an excerpt from a poem by Yun Sŏndo (1587 - 1671). One of the most prominent poets in Korean literature, Yun has been compared to his contemporaries like Shakespeare, Basho and Cervantes. His poem, Song of Five Friends, is often quoted in anthologies of Korean poetry. Here are three versions of verse five from that poem.

The first version is by Larry Gross:

Look at this, it isn’t a tree, and it isn‘t a grass either;
How can it stand so erect when its insides are empty?

Bamboo, I praise you in all seasons, standing green no matter what

The second by Kevin O'Rourke comes from his book, The Book of Korean Shijo:

Neither wood nor grass;

who made it straight, why is it hollow?
So green all the year round; that's why I like it.

The third is my long-winded reworking ( with no regard for the technical rules of sijo composition):

Consider this: too skinny to be a tree, too thick to be grass;
You stand tall and strong, though insubstantial within.
Yet, despite the seasons, you remain steadfast in hue.

source:
http://thewordshop.tripod.com/Sijo/yunsondo.html
http://www.candlemaking.com/store/Bamboo-P2302C31.aspx?UserID=581291&SessionID=JvqIw2qWrguWYkTn4Ryr

More Armchair Travelling Around Damyang

Close-up of craftwork with bamboo

One last look at Damyang in Jeollanam-do before moving on to another part of Korea.

Click here for a video of Damyang, produced by KBS World Radio for the travel series, Touring Korea.
Look out for the jakbuin ( bamboo wife) and the bamboo rice.You can also listen to interviews with craftsmen who work with bamboo as well as interviews with local tourists to Damyang if you click on the sound icon on the top right hand corner.

source of pic:
Korean Cultural Insights ( KNTO publication)

Taking It Nice and Slow in Korea's " Slow City"

Here's my Damyang wish list ie. things I want to do if I'm lucky enough to revisit the place. Why I didn't do these the first time I was there? Put it down to poor timing, lousy decision-making after days of solo backpacking and being overwhelmed by the officers in blue. See previous posting.

Moreover, when I visited the place in 2005, Damyang  hadn't yet been proclaimed as a "Slow City".  A village called Samjicheon within the county only became the first place in Asia to be part of the "Cittaslow" movement in 2007. This movement is actually  a "global cultural trend aimed at improving the quality of life in small towns while resisting hectic and fast-paced urban lifestyles, and .... a cultural shift against anything done or made quickly."

So,in keeping with the spirit of the place. this is my dream itinerary:
 
1. The Damyang Bamboo Museum
Funny enough, I never got round to visit this place. I guess my assumption that there wouldn't be any explanatory boards in English put me off going there but that's a pathetic excuse as the artefacts and handicrafts can speak for themselves. So I have to be content with a bit more armchair travelling, thanks to this videoclip produced by KBS World Radio until I can find my way there.

2. Soswaewon Garden
This long-established tourist attraction showcases a Joseon-style garden complete with pavilions, water mills, falls and bridges. I'd pack a picnic lunch to savour the balance between nature and man-made beauty whilst trying to compose some sijo under the friendly shade of a pavilion.

3. Junokwon ( Bamboo Forest Theme Park)
I'd spend at least half a day here to look out for the three species of bamboo featured here ( Bunjuk, Wangdae, Maengjongjuk) and do some serious reading to learn more about these fabulous grasses beforehand. I'd linger till evening when they switch on the lights to create a different ambience for the bamboo groves here.

4. Gamagol Valley
I'd follow the Youngsan-gang ( river) into some of its deep valleys to look for the first and second Yongdam Waterfalls.

5. Geumseong ( Fortress) Wall
This fortress wall, built during the Goryeo Dynasty,  in the only one in the country with the complete set of doors  facing all the four main points of the compass. I'd need a full day to complete the 7,345 meter circuit and the top of the mountain  here is 603 m above sea level. The fortress links many ridges here and rewards hikers with great views of the lake.

6. Stay in Samjicheon
I'd soak in the atmosphere here, understand what the scent of bamboo is truly like, take part in making hangwa ( traditional sweets) and dyeing fabrics the traditional way while staying a few nights at this hanok village.

7. Find a restaurant which serves Juktongbap ( also known as daetongbab)
This is a local specialty - a meal of  rice, bamboo shoots and other vegetables steamed in the hollow of a bamboo.

Sources:

http://www.damyang.go.kr/eng/s02/01.html
http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/nation/2009/11/281_42833.html
• http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=70655
• http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/FU/FU_EN_15.jsp?cid=317001
• http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=309578
• http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=76416
• http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_4_12_15_2.jsp
• http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=815404
• http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=815387
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/41/Korean_cuisine-Juktongbap-02.jpg

Whirlwind Tour of Damyang in a Police Car, Part 2

Here's a brief run-down of my 2005 tour of  Damyang, courtesy of the local police. See previous posting.

Daenamugol Bamboo Park

This place is the location for a number of TV drama series like Damo but I didn’t know that when I visited this place in 2005. But one doesn’t really need to do a Hallyu pilgrimage to do justice to this place. Just wear comfortable walking shoes and read up beforehand about the different types of bamboo to appreciate this place more fully. It’s a balm to the senses to walk quietly along the narrow paths flanked by tall and slender bamboo. Have to keep reminding myself that they’re not trees but grasses that share similar genetic make-up with rice and wheat.

Songhac Experience Museum

Admission charges in 2005: Adults -2500 won & children - 1500 won
E-mail: songhac7179@naver.com

This small museum has a fairly engaging collection of artefacts - such as furniture, clothing, ceramics, kitchen and farming utensils and even turn of the century schoolbooks - that give the visitor an idea of what life was like for ordinary Koreans in times past. Displays are on two floors and there are some hands-on activities like brass rubbings and collecting imprints of seals.

Unfortunately, there weren’t any explanations in English so I had to use my imagination a fair bit to figure out what’s what. There were also larger exhibits around and on a small pond outside the main building but I didn’t have time to look around further.

Lake Damyang
If you’re lucky to be in a car or if you can rent one, the winding road alongside this pretty lake makes a great drive. If you have more time, you can also check out the Chuwol or Juwol Tourist Site, the camping grounds on Gamagol, and the Geumseong Fortress Wall.

Metasequoia Road
Click here for my earlier posting on this attraction.

Credit: Kiwistyle, dcinside

sources:www.damyang.go.kr
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=706556
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/FU/FU_EN_15.jsp?cid=317001

How I Ended Up In A Police Car in Damyang

Dear police officers in Damyang,

There I was, back in 2005, a bewildered tourist just looking for a yeogwan in Damyang. I'd just come from Hwaeomsa by bus and I looked in vain for the non-existent tourist information centre. Didn't realise that your town wasn't quite ready for tourists from abroad -  there was only a small information booth at the bus ticketing counter and there weren't any brochures in English ( unlike most other places I had visited in South Korea).

So after a quick mid-morning snack of kimchi burger ( couldn't taste any kimchi at all!), I popped into a few motels but they were too expensive. Next, I stopped by a motel which had a distinctively seedy air within and the bug-eyed appearance of the guy at the reception counter made me even more uneasy. I guess it was THAT which made me give in to the impulse to pop into the police post just round the corner to ask you guys if you could recommend a place to stay.

To my surprise, you weren't able to suggest confidently any particular minbak or yeogwan but one of you did hit upon the idea of a 24-hour jjimjilbang. I gathered from my very limited Korean that it wasn't so easy to get there on local buses ( or maybe you thought I wouldn't be able to find my way around). Whatever it was, I found myself escorted into the back of a patrol car and whisked away by two of your colleagues. You drove me to the jjimjilbang, Bamboo Health Land, and after some rapid exchanges with the girls at the reception counter there, it was settled that I would stay there the night.

But it was still early in the day and so you kindly decided to take me on a tour of your hometown. Obviously the crime rate in Damyang is/ was non-existent if you could spare the time to play tour guide. So I ended up for a good part of the day riding around Damyang at the back of a police car. I was so embarrassed that you even had to keep opening the door for me as it had no handles at the back! At one point, the two of you had to go off duty or attend to some task yet you still arranged for another patrol car to continue the impromptu tour.

I could kick myself now for not taking a photo with you in front of the police car as proof but at that point I was so bowled over by your kindness that I didn't dare impose on you any further.Not sure now how many people will believe this story but I think many who've travelled in Korea and encountered the spontaneous goodwill of your compatriots will understand.

So gentlemen, Gamsa-hamnida for your patience and hospitality! Thank you so much for a wonderful tour of your town. In the end, I will always remember Damyang, not for the lush bamboo groves but for all you officers who went beyond the call of duty in helping me out.

Warmest wishes,
Ajumma

More on my Damyang day-trip in future postings!

The Most Beautiful Road in South Korea?

Forget the tree-lined path on Nami Island. Go to Damyang and look for an avenue flanked by the granddaddy of those deciduous conifers, also known as Dawn Redwoods. Almost 40 years ago, 600 metasequoias were planted along a 6.5 km stretch of road (including Routes 15 and 24 ) on the edge of this small town which is perhaps more famous for its bamboo groves.

It's been voted a number of times by the Ministry of Construction and Transportation, no less, as the most beautiful road in Korea.  The trees have grown to a height of about 20 meters. In springtime and summer, they form a green canopy for drivers, cyclists and pedestrians to admire. In winter, the bare branches are laced with snow and create a different romantic mood.

                                            Credit: Kiwistyle, dcinside

The road has now become a celebrity of sorts since it was featured in the hit movie, "Splendid Vacation" as well as in "Traces of Love". It's also appeared in many commercials. Small wonder then that it attracts more than 500 visitors daily. More recently, Yoon Eun-hye's character in the KBS drama, My Fair Lady, learnt to ride a bicycle along this road.

I went to Damyang in search of bamboo trees, not expecting this lovely, evocative avenue. Riding at the back of the police car along this stretch and seeing the dignified trees lined up like some official welcoming committee made me feel very much like a VIP treated to a special local delicacy.

 
BTW, if you still insist on going to Nami Island, check out this video.

Some Fascinating Facts About Dawn Redwoods ( (Metasequoia glyptostroboides) So Far:
A "living fossil", the redwood goes back to prehistoric times. There are fossils of the dawn redwood which are thought to be 200 million years old.

At first it was thought to be extinct but then was rediscovered in Hubei Province, central China in 1941. The find was described as the botanical equivalent of finding a living dinosaur.Seeds were collected and passed onto garden enthusiasts who grew them in their gardens. At one point it grew to such numbers that the trees were even axed to make pulp. More recently though, the specie has seen hard times again; this time the threats come from rice cultivation, over-logging and  "inbreeding depression" which makes it less hardy.

Photograph courtesy President and Fellows of Harvard College

Its slender leaves change  from green to gold to reddish-brown before falling off in the winter. The bark of its thick trunk can develop a brown or orange tint.

It's related to the giant sequoia (Sequoiadendron giganteum) found in North America and the lifespan of the oldest specimens are around 600 years.

Redwood bonsai

It's not simply eye candy. Scientists in Korea Advanced Institute of Science and Technology, Daejeon have found  extracts from the tree may be very useful in dealing with tumours.
Click here for an enthusiastic description of this tree.

Sources:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metasequoia

http://www.flickr.com/photos/kaychae/3964423722/in/photostream/

http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_4_12_15_2.jsp

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Metasequoia_glyptostroboides_Avenue.JPG

http://www.frommers.com/destinations/damyang/4004010002.html

http://www.kimchi.gwangju.kr/eng/festival/05_07-travel2.html

http://english.kbs.co.kr/life/travel/region/jeonbuk/1350923_11647.html

http://www.koreaherald.co.kr/NEWKHSITE/data/html_dir/2009/07/14/200907140046.asp
http://treesandshrubs.about.com/od/commontrees/p/DawnRedwood.htm
http://betterbonsai.blogspot.com/2008/01/dawn-redwood-bonsai.html
http://www.bonsaiwest.com/gallery/masterpieceBonsai/images/redwood.jpg
http://environment.nationalgeographic.com/environment/photos/chinese-plants/dawn-redwood.html
http://www.educationalfossils.com/educational-fossils/metasequoia/metasequoia-M.jpg
http://www.icogitate.com/~tree/dawn.redwood.timeline.ac10.htm

A Grand Ole Halbeoji of A Tree in Hwaeomsa

Wooden temples and stone architecture aren't the only things in Hwaeomsa that can get your attention. Found this lovely old pine on the temple grounds and spent some time under its comforting shade. Love its height, texture,  the radiating pattern of its branches and especially the thought that it's been around for a long, long while.

Who's Among the Lions?

What I Wished I Knew About Hwaeomsa Before I Went There, Part 4

If you walk behind Gakhwangjeon Hall and climb up 108 steps to reach the Terrace of Filial Piety, you’ll find a clearing with camellia trees and National Treasure No 35. The Four Lions Three-Storey Stone Pagoda is also the oldest relic in Hwaeomsa (temple), supposedly erected in the 8th century by Yon-gi.

This stone sculpture is noteworthy for a few reasons. Each face of the lower base has relief carvings of heavenly musicians on the lute, harp or mouth organ and dancers. Above them stand four lions on stone lotuses. It was the first time lions were used as part of the design. These symbolise the power of Buddha and if you look carefully at the expressions of each creature, you may discover that the mouths get wider and wider as you walk clockwise around the pagoda.

Right in the centre, among the lions, there’s a sculpture of a human figure – but its identity remains obscure. Is it a statue of a priest or a nun or even the mother of Yon-gi, the founder of the temple?

A stone lantern opposite this pagoda has another stone figure with one knee bent as if making an offering ( a cup of tea, perhaps) or is it supposed to represent Yongi honouring his mother?

Either way, it’s a peaceful spot to soak in the atmosphere, enjoy a little picnic, reflect on filial piety or just be thankful for all the great moms out there.


Sources:
http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/cms/resource/01/707401_image2_1.jpg

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Korea-Gurye-Hwaeomsa_5009-06.JPG
http://english.gurye.go.kr/english/jirisan/valleys.html
http://media.graniteschools.org/Curriculum/korea/hwaomsa.htmh
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Pyzf11LwE6fMD4R6o3boqQ
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/User:Waygugin/Sandbox
http://san-shin.net/Jiri-Hwaeom-1.html
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=822435

The Great Stone Lantern of Hwaeomsa

Hwaeomsa in Jirisan National Park supposedly has the highest stone lantern of its kind in the world. Standing at 6.4m, it was the largest stone lantern of its kind ( before the 1960s). It's National Treasure No. 12. Most stone lanterns have an octogonal-shaped  column but this one is fashioned after an hour-glass, a popular style during the Shilla Dynasty.

Stone lanterns have a symbolic function - representing the path to enlightenment but they may have also been used in earlier days to provide some light to monks making their way in the pre-dawn darkness to the main hall, Gakhwangjeon,  for early chanting sessions. I'd like to think they still place a candle within it on special days at least instead of simply using electricity. The temple grounds here apparently are a sight to behold when they celebrate Buddha's birthday with a lantern festival.

Ironically, I picked a bad time to be virtuous and to watch how I spent my won when I went to the gift shop at Hwaeomsa. Shouldn't have curbed the inclination to splurge on a pretty gold-plated book mark shaped after the famous stone lantern here.

Sources:

http://www.ocp.go.kr:9000/ne_dasencgi/full.cgi?v_kw_str=&v_db_query=A4%3A36&v_db=2&v_doc_no=00000012&v_dblist=2&v_start_num=1&v_disp_type=4
http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264128
http://www.san-shin.net/Jiri-Hwaeom-1.html
http://www.heritage.go.kr/eng/tou/tou_the_11_sce.jsp

It's the Biggest, It's Wooden, It's Buddhist: It's Gakhwangjeon

What  I Wished I Knew About Hwaeomsa Before I Went There, Part 2

Gakhwangjeon Hall ( Hall of the Enlightened Lord); National Treasure No 67

Gakhwanjeon Hall in Hwaeomsa ( temple) is one of the largest Buddhist structures made of wood in Korea. Built to replace a similar structure which was razed to the ground during the Japanese invasion , its reconstruction was completed in 1703. Its stone base, dating back to the Shilla Dynasty, was intended for another hall. Look out for the triangular stone railings which are typical of the period.

Photo: Byunggu Yu  

From outside, it looks like a two –storey building but as you enter, you find yourself in a single large hall with a very high, panelled ceiling. The dimensions are apparently quite unusual for Korean temple buildings.

 A single window high up on one wall on the supposed second floor, allows light to stream in to light up the faces of the seven large gold statues of Buddha and bodhisattvas on the altar.

Behind them hangs a tapestry which was painted in 1860 and kept there to express hope for the longevity of the royal family.

If you look below the statues, you may be able to spot some fragments of the entire Avatamsaka Sutra that was carved on granite plates on the walls. Sadly, most of them were destroyed during the Imjun Wars.

sources:

1 http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/cms/resource/01/707401_image2_1.jp

2 http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Korea-Gurye-Hwaeomsa_5009-06.JP

3. http://english.gurye.go.kr/english/jirisan/valleys.htm

4. http://media.graniteschools.org/Curriculum/korea/hwaomsa.htm

5.  http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Pyzf11LwE6fMD4R6o3boq

6. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/User:Waygugin/Sandbox

7. http://san-shin.net/Jiri-Hwaeom-1.htm

8. http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=822435

9. http://www.cnu.daejeon.kr/AWA/Architecture%20in%20Korea/KA-Traditional%20Building-Jeonnam-01.htm

10. http://www.ocp.go.kr:9000/ne_pro_search/image_list.cgi?kdcd=11&asno=03010000&ctcd=36

11. http://www.flickr.com/photos/backpackjack/2501674384/

What I Wished I Knew About Hwaeomsa Before I Went There, Part 1

Part 1 – The Many Benefactors of Hwaeomsa

For some reason, I don’t have the patience to stand and read the explanatory boards on site at places of interest. A great pity because I would have paid more attention to certain features while I was there. But now, in digging up more info for this blog and in retracing my steps, it’s like I’m revisiting South Korea again and hopefully this time, with a better appreciation of things.

Of course I knew Hwaeomsa was an important temple in the country but I didn’t realise how important it was. If I had done my homework before my 2005 trip, I would’ve learnt that royal families from the Goryeo to the Shilla and even the anti-Buddhist Joseon Dynasties had all supported this temple in more ways than just financially. This special patronage across the centuries can probably be traced back to the ancient pre-Buddhist belief that Jirisan was one of the five sacred mountains in the land. ( The others were: Taebaeksan in the north, Gyeryeongsan in the west, Tohamsan in the east and Buaksan in the centre)These sites of shamanistic rituals continued to be revered as homes of bodhisattvas when Buddhism spread throughout the country.

I wished I had read up earlier on Korean history, in particular, the sad episode when the Japanese invaded the country in the 16th century. I’d have appreciated better the legend about the invaders failed to cart off the temple bell of Hwaeomsa when the boat carrying it sank into the Seomjingang. I would’ve been able to do a mental connect-the-dots between the monks-turned-soldiers of Hwaeomsa with those who also traded prayer –beads for weapons in Jinju during the Imjin Wars. I’d have paid more attention to the name of Yunul or Ja Woon, the monk who became an officer under Admiral Lee Sun-sin and suggested to the great naval commander a new design for a battleship. This was the “first ironclad ship in world naval history” and it helped the Korean navy gain victory at sea.

Even after royal interest in Hwaeomsa began to fade during the latter part of the Joseon Dynasty with the rise of the Neo-Confucianists, funds for the temple continued, courtesy of the noblemen ( yangban) and even ordinary citizens. Of course, when poor farmers and humble ajummas became its main benefactors, the reconstruction plans for Hwaeomsa could not progress at the same pace as before. When it finally picked up again in the period between 1699 and 1703, again it depended on the royalty.

There is a charming story about how funds for the rebuilding of Jangnyukjoen Hall in Hwaeomsa came about:
“ Gyepa Seongneung, who, after being appointed by Byeogam to rebuild Jangnyukjeon Hall, was at a loss about how to get the resources to carry out his master's wishes. The monk prayed night after night, hoping Buddha would provide him the answer, when suddenly an old man appeared before him in a vision telling Gyepa not to despair. The old man commanded, ‘Go out to beg tomorrow and ask the first person you see to help you. Then you will have all you need.’


Following his instructions, the next morning Gyepa quietly left the temple grounds to go begging and soon came across a penniless old beggar woman. Gyepa was at a loss, but nevertheless, asked the woman for a donation. Dumbfounded by his request, the old woman listened intently to Gyepa explain his vision to her. Moved to tears, she vowed that upon her death, she would be reborn into the royal house and use her power to restore Hwaeomsa. She then threw herself into a nearby swamp and drowned.


Many years later in the capital, Gyepa was still begging for the money to rebuild Jangnyukjeon Hall when he came across the young daughter of the king, on an outing from the palace with her nurse. Though she had never met the monk, the princess was very excited to see him. She pleaded with him for his help as the princess had been born unable to open one of her hands.


Gyepa took her hand and inexplicably it opened for the first time ever. On the palm of her newly opened hand were the characters for Jangnyukjeon. Upon hearing the good news, King Sukjong called the priest to the palace and eager to hear his story. So touched was the king, that he pledged the necessary money to rebuild Jangnyukjeon Hall.”

sources:
http://english.yi-sunsin.com/03ship/02_01.jsp
http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/cms/resource/01/707401_image2_1.jp
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Korea-Gurye-Hwaeomsa_5009-06.JP
http://english.gurye.go.kr/english/jirisan/valleys.html
http://media.graniteschools.org/Curriculum/korea/hwaomsa.htmh
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Pyzf11LwE6fMD4R6o3boqQ
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/User:Waygugin/Sandbox
http://san-shin.net/Jiri-Hwaeom-1.html
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=822435

Gamsa-hamnida to Three Gentlemen in Gurye

To Three Gentlemen in Gurye,

My visit to Piagol Valley remains a heart-warming memory because of my good fortune in meeting you. There I was cursing my own absent-mindedness in forgetting to change into sneakers and there you were, three retired school principals out for a day’s walk. You invited me to join you for a picnic on the rocks of a partially dry stream near a footbridge. It was a modest and odd meal of sorts: persimmons, mandarins, grape juice and some local brew ( I think you said it was maekkolli) and cream cheese crackers as my own contribution.

I was impressed when you cleared away the remains of our picnic and even more so by the fast pace you kept up as we continued our walk, despite your claim to various health problems. Truth is, although you were older, you were much fitter and more sure-footed. I was sorry that I couldn’t match your stride and didn’t have the nerve to make the effort as I was more worried about slipping and twisting my ankle. So I turned back regretfully before I could reach Piagol Valley. Despite your encouragement and patience, I wasn’t prepared to impose on you and disgrace myself any further by holding you back with my city-slicker crawl.

I felt very much like a wimp and tried to console myself by going down to the river’s edge to sit Zen-like on the rocks and soak up the autumn sunshine and enjoy the water’s gurgling. On my way out later, I paused for a snack of odeng (fishcakes on a stick) when lo and behold, there you were again, back from your walk. Again, you invited me for a light lunch of acorn jelly salad and soju. Lucky for me, I had seen enough Korean TV dramas to remember the custom of filling your glasses as the youngest member at the table.

One of you, Mr Lee, seemed to be the apparent leader of the group. Whether it was because of your seniority or position or because you were the driver for the day but you insisted on playing tour guide and suddenly I found myself bundled into your spacious car and off to visit Yeongoksa ( temple).

I tried to show my appreciation by paying more attention than I usually do to the relics and explanatory boards there. After that, you had to take a short siesta ( another exemplary and reaassuring thing I noted!) before you took to the wheel again while the rest of us could enjoy at leisure good views of one small section of Jirisan National Park.

I wasn’t sure when you decided that you were going to drive me back to the bus terminal at Gurye where I had left my bag before taking me to Hwaeomsa, my original destination for the day. Neither you nor your companions seemed to mind the detour the least bit – was it innate chivalry, a welcome opportunity to share and show off your hometown to a tourist or were you bored and enjoyed this diversion? It wasn’t exactly a short drive and you even pointed out to me casually the blue roof of your home which we passed on the way to Gurye. The lights of the afternoon sun reflected off the river on our left and I could see lone anglers here and there in the water, waiting patiently for their catch. I didn’t think though that their patience matched yours or perhaps patience is a local trait.

Anyway, I was a bit puzzled at first when you passed me your hat just before your car approached the ticket booth at the entrance to Hwaeomsa. Perhaps you didn’t want the hassle of pausing to pay the entrance fee for the tourist or if you just wanted me to enjoy the same privilege as the locals. But it was amusing, being part of this subterfuge as if we were school kids sneaking past the ticket booth of a cinema.

Again, you played tour guide at the temple before finally dropping me off at the tourist village just outside Hwaeomsa as the evening shadows lengthened. I think you even told the ajummas running a yeogwan to take care of me if I needed help. I bowed as deeply as I could without toppling over while repeating “Gamsa-hamnida” as you waved goodbye in a matter-of-fact way.

So once again, Chong-mal Gamsa-hamnida for a wonderful and memorable day. Even though I didn’t get to see the blood-red maples of Piagol, I consider myself lucky to have experienced your amazing hospitality.

Warmest wishes,
Ajumma

sources:
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Makkeolli

Climbing, Culture and Cuisine - Jirisan, Part 1

No visit to Korea is complete until you’ve visited the first, the oldest ( designated as a national park in Dec, 29, 1967) and the biggest national park in South Korea. The enormity of Jirisan National Park is apparent when you study the maps and realise that three provinces, Jeollanam-do, Jeollabuk-do and Gyeongsangnam-do, share this enormous mountain which has at least eight peaks over 1000 meters.

Seasoned climbers like to do the ridge course which may include reaching peaks in the west like Nogodan ( 1507 m) and going along the ridge eastwards all the way to Cheonwangbong ( 1915. 4 m), the second-highest peak in ROK, after Hallasan in Jeju. You need at least three or four days to complete this course at a leisurely pace though theoretically it can be done within 24 hours if you don’t stop to pee, eat or take photos. Others with less ambition, stamina and time such as yours truly can be content to amble along the foothills to admire the many beautiful valleys, waterfalls, temples and hermitages that dot the area. There are numerous trails for day-trips and the Lonely Planet recommends getting the Jirisan National Park map produced by the National Parks if you plan on doing a few of these hikes.

Jirisan is also significant for all the ancient religions practised in the country. Those who still follow shamanistic rites hold sacrificial rites here. Taoists believe that Jirisan is home to its great immortals while Buddhists still make pilgrimages to visit places believed to be occupied by bodhisattvas. Besides temples and hermitages of historic and cultural importance, there are also villages to explore such as Chonghakdong which maintains Confucian traditions; Shimwon, dubbed to my amusement, “First Village Under the Sky” and Sangwi which celebrates with a festival in spring the blooming of golden Japanese dogwood or ssansuyu ( Cornusofficinalis).

Last but not least, Jirisan has a reputation of having one of the cleanest environments in the country so the quality of the food here is said to be very good. You can sample the sweet fish which thrive in the unpolluted waters of the Sumjingang, for instance. Or if you fancy indulging like a Joseon emperor but still have to eat healthily, try the Hanjeongsik ( traditional banquet meal) available in many restaurants here as many local herbs from the hillsides are used. Local pork and crab dishes are also well-known here.

Source:http://jiri.knps.or.kr/eng/
http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/cms/resource/01/707401_image2_1.jpg
http://english.gurye.go.kr/english/jirisan/valleys.html
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=822435
http://jiri.knps.or.kr/eng/intro/guidence.html
http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/spa/TR/TR_SP_3_3.jsp?cid=310643