Seven Commandments For Cittaslow Visitors

Came across this article from the JoongAng Daily which reported how the Cittaslow Movement wasn't really working out for the local population. Hordes of tourists who descend on such villages create jammed roads and piles of rubbish, amongst other problems.

So here are unfriendly but necessary rules I'd recommend to protect the slow lifestyle of Jeungdo under threat:

1. Thou shalt forsake thy private transport. ( leave your car at home; walk or hire a bike instead).

2. Thou shalt not covet the fruit of thy Cittaslow neighbour's labour. ( in short, don't pinch the farmers' produce!)

3. Thou shalt not be led into temptation and submit to your nicotine addiction.( Please don't stink up the air with your ciggies!)

4. Thou shalt bear the burden of any rubbish you have and carry it home. ( the limited resources of these places can't cope with the litter left by visitors)

5. Honour the privacy and respect the property of those who dwell in the Cittaslow homes. ( please don't turn them into prisoners in their own home).

6. Thou shalt practise forbearance and suffer patiently the slower service. ( after all, you did come for a slower pace of life, right? )

7. Remember the commandments for the National Parks and keep these places holy and inviolate as well ( ie. take nothing but photos, leave nothing but footprints).

BTW, If anyone can suggest three more rules  to make a complete set of commandments, I'd be grateful!

UPDATE: Comment from Aaron McKenzie ( thanks!)

I saw this article, too. I had to laugh, though, because in the very same issue of the Joong Ang, was an article about the new "slow lifestyle" movement which containted this quote:



"Businesses that aim to enrich living spaces also stand to gain from this trend. The recently designated “slow city” of Jeung Island boasts large expanses of mud flats, salt fields and wetlands."

So, on the same day, the Joong Ang reports on how folks on Jeungdo are complaining about too many damned tourists...and then the paper essentially recommends that folks go have a look at the place.

sources:
http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2923048
http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_4_12_15_4.jsp
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=815540

From Hola To Olle in Jeju

Seo or Suh Myung Sook, director of Jeju Olle ( pic by Ahn Sang-soo)

It all began when Suh Myung-sook said Hello or maybe it was Hola to Henney from Britain somewhere along the El Camino de Santiago. After 23 years working in the media, Suh had decided to quit her post as editor-in-chief of OhmyNews and take time off in Spain. The chance meeting with a fellow walker from Britain and the positive experiences on the long walk prompted her to develop her own pilgrimage trail back home.

Ms Suh decided that Jeju had the most potential and it wasn't long before she hit upon the name "Jeju Olle" for her project as the word "olle" in the Jeju dialect refers to "the narrow path between the street and one's doorstep".

If I were a documentary film-maker, I'd trace the story of how Ms Suh's dream was realised as she set up her trail exploration team, persuaded the people of Jeju ( skeptical landowners in particular) to agree to letting strangers on their land, and enlisted the manpower of soldiers training in a local camp.

Unfortunately for me, the Olle trails weren't opened yet when I visited Jeju but since the first trail opened in September, 2007, at least 14 other trails have been established mostly along the coastline of Jeju and more than 100,000 people have been able to enjoy the fruits of Ms Suh's endeavours. Some have voiced concerns that the popularity of the trails may have an adverse effect on the local ecology but I can't comment on that. All I can say is the more I see the pics of the trails, the more I wish I was in Jeju right this minute. I am so ready to hit those trails - well, not physically ready but mentally and emotionally -yeah!

Jeju can often seem too touristy with its resorts, amusement parks and various galleries and museums. But with its Olles, visitors in search of the natural face of Jeju should be able to find plenty of opportunities to commune with nature. I know I will,

Click here  or here for Routes 1 to 13 and click here for Route 14.

Download guidebook on Jeju Olle here.

For examples, see below:

Route 1 Admire views of Seongsan Ilchulbong Peak as you climb an oreum, pass through salt fields and end up in Gwangchigi Beach.

For more details: Routes 1, 4 and 6

Route No 4  Start from Pyoseon Beach Resort and make your way up Mang Oreum through a pine forest. Pass an old beacon mound before you reach Namwon Port and Keuneong Promenade.

Route No. 6 -Take a ride across the Soesokkak Estuary on a Te-u ( traditional boat) before visiting the Lee Jung Seop Gallery and the eco park around the Cheonjiyeon Falls. The walk ends at Oedolgae Seaside Promenade.

sources:
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=726174
http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/art/2010/01/144_52041.html
http://english.ohmynews.com/articleview/article_view.asp?at_code=437591
http://www.jejuolle.org/main/main.jsp
http://www.ssahn.com/archives/2008_03.htm

Jeju, Samseonghyeol: Begin At The Beginning

The first stopover in Jeju for many tourists in guided tours may well be Yongduam Rock. But my friend and I thought we’d start with Samseonghyeol, which was close to the Hanmi-jang Yeogwan in the old section of Jeju town. Click here for a video of the place.

In the nearby museum, it had been mildly interesting to watch the animated video which recounted the legend of Tamna, the settlement we know now as Jeju. Three demi-gods apparently emerged from three holes to found Tamna. Subsequently, Go or Ko, Yang and Bu, originally hunter-gatherers became farmers when they married princesses from the Byeongnang Kingdom. Each spring and autumn, their descendants still perform special rites to honour them at altars near the three holes

The holes are supposedly linked to lava tubes which lead who knows where. I don’t suppose anyone has really explored them, judging from the grass-covered appearance of the three depressions in the ground of this supposedly sacred site. I’d love to know if they actually lead to someplace interesting. One website made this claim: “The holes are forming triangular shape together and do not get wet by rain drops or snow. Trees surrounding them look as if they are bowing the three founders which amazes visitors.”

Don’t know about THAT but I was impressed by the peaceful ambience of the park. The trees did more for me than the holes of Samseonghyeol.

sources:
http://www.teachenglishinasia.net/samseong-hyeol
http://www.orientalarchitecture.com/koreasouth/jeju/samseonghyeol.php
http://english.tour2jeju.net/main/view.php?idno=50058
http://www.samsunghyeol.or.kr/introduction.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tamna
http://english.tour2jeju.net/main/movie.php?idno=50058

Thank You To A Sentry In Bugaksan

Dear Sentry,

I'm writing this long overdue note (late by two years) to thank you for not shooting me down. You probably won't remember me but I still want to thank you for not assuming I was a North Korean spy with evil designs on President Lee.

Somewhere along the steep climb up Bugaksan, I had stopped to catch my breath and quench my thirst. The cap of my water bottle had slipped out of my grasp and fallen onto the no-trespassing zone. I was about to clamber over the low railing to get it when you came rushing up and gestured urgently that THAT was a NO-NO. I thought you'd hop over the fence to pick up the trespassing cap straightaway for me but even YOU had to get clearance from your superior through your walkie-talkie first.

It was a most embarrassing but memorable moment. Later, I saw the tree which was riddled with bullet shots when some North Koreans had attempted to assassinate President Park Chung-hee back in 1961. It drove home again the reminder that Korea is still officially a country at war and the peace over the Korean peninsula is still a fragile one. So once again, thanks for not jumping to conclusions when I was about to jump across the low fence and for retrieving  the cap of my water bottle in Bugaksan.

Gratefully,
ajumma


source:
http://english.seoul.go.kr/gtk/news/news_view.php?idx=561&cPage=101

Korean Folk Village

For those who don’t have the time to visit the Hahoe Maeul, in Andong or Nagan-eup-seong near Suncheon right down south, Korean Folk Village near Suwon is the most convenient introduction one can get to the lives of Koreans in the past.

 Pretty pavilion beside a wishing tree in KFV

An open-air museum of sorts, the KFV gives visitors a vivid impression of what life was like in Korea during the Joseon Dynasty.

Greet the wooden guardians which protect the village

There are various houses ranging from a humble peasant’s cottage to an aristocrat’s mansion, an array of shops with wares ranging from traditional medicine to straw sandals.

Rustic traditions kept alive here; wonder if the beast is on the KFV payroll

See for yourself the difference between the northern and southern styles of traditional home architecture. Observe craftsmen at work making pots, horseshoes, ropes and paper the traditional way.

Dried calabashes, corn, fermented soybean bricks, red peppers - staples of a bygone era

Check out the various foot bridges which span the stream hugging the eastern side of the KFV. Satisfy your curiosity about what a Korean haunted house looks like and visit the local female shaman.

 This footbridge is one of easiest ones to cross; there are others which test your balance!

Get married the traditional Korean way in KFV - serious. But book in advance!

Keep a lookout for your favourite Hallyu star as this place is a popular shooting location for K historical drama.

Some Suggestions:

1. Getting there – click here.

2. Be prepared to spend more than half the day there – work out a walking route around the scheduled performances ( wedding ceremony, acrobats, samul-nori, horse riding).

 Don't miss this - Samulnori performances - one of the highlights of KFV

Check out the map on the KFV website.

source: http://www.koreanfolk.co.kr/folk/english/guide/guide_sche.html

3. There used to be a two tier pricing system - the cheaper one didn’t include admission to the amusement park side but if you were visiting with children, you probably had to go for the pricier option. Looks that the option's no longer available from the looks of the current ticketing scheme on the KFV website though the KNTO website displays the older ticketing schedule ( I'm guessing the KNTO page needs updating!)

12,000 won (adults), 9,000 won ( adolescents and seniors), 8,000 won (child)

4. Read up on the various sections in the KFV website before you go. The information brochure which you get when you buy your ticket doesn’t give as much and the explanatory boards are sketchy.

5. KBS World Radio video on KFV – juxtaposes old photos from its archives with present day video shots.

Snacks on sale in the open-air marketplace

6. Note that the food stalls in the open-air market section are tucked right at the back and there’s a long walk to get there, so if you tend to feel peckish throughout the day, carry your own snacks and water.

7. KFV has been the outdoor location site for various dramas such as Daejanggeum and Painter of the Wind.

sources:
http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/culturenlife/culturenlife_touringkorea_detail.htm?No=436
http://www.koreanfolk.co.kr/folk/english/contact/contact_tran.html
http://www.virtualtourist.com/travel/Asia/South_Korea/Soul_tukpyolsi/Seoul-1058426/Things_To_Do-Seoul-Korean_Folk_Village-BR-2.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Korean_Folk_Village
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264121

More Feasting Than Fighting, Hwaseong's North-east Pavilion

Here's another section of Hwaseong in Suwon built by King Jeongjo. The north-east pavilion, Dongbuk Gangnu, is perched  prettily on a hillock overlooking a pond named Yongyeon. Given the panoramic views which it commands, it's been more popular as a venue for picnics and feasting than as its intended purpose as a command post.

The graceful outlines of the pavilion seem even more elegant in this drawing featured in an uigwe detailing the construction of Hwaseong. Thanks to Henny Savenije for letting me reproduce this picture.

Beauty inspires many names. The north-east pavilion is also known as "gaknu" or "angle tower" as well as Banghwasuryujeong.

The view from this pavilion, may be regarded as one of the eight famous views of Suwon but the view OF this pavilion is quite impressive as well. If I had had more time in Suwon, I'd have packed a picnic basket and spent at least an hour there.  

Sources:
http://www.hwasong.henny-savenije.pe.kr/
http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=255802
http://www.ekoreajournal.net/upload/pdf/PDF4118
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Hwaseong_Third_North_Secret_Gate_and_Dongbuk_Gangnu_-_2009-03-01.JPG
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Hwasgph2.jpg
http://eng.suwon.ne.kr/sub/travel_tour/travel_tour_01_01.asp?menuCode=0401
http://english.chosun.com/site/data/html_dir/2009/04/19/2009041900418.html

Korean Cultural Village

The Korean Folk Village near Suwon is usually considered a pretty good introduction to traditional life particularly for those who can't spare the time to explore the real deals such as Hahoe Village, Andong or Nagan-eupseong Village near Suncheon.

I had visited KFV way before I went to the other two places so my response was more favourable than it would've been if it had been the other way round. Liked the variety of footbridges across the stream which flanked one side of the village. Also remembered the elderly gentleman at the paper-making mill who patiently demonstrated his skills and the impressive performances of the nori players. It was mildly interesting to observe from a distance a film crew at work, shooting another historical drama but aside from all that, I'm sorry to say I don't really remember that much of KFV.

A pity I hadn't checked out its useful website before making my visit. Click here for a KBS World Radio video clip that covers other entertaining aspects. For more information about admission charges, opening times and transportation link, click here.

Spring Gold and Fall Rubies

I didn't know what I was missing till I saw the latest Touring Korea videoclip produced by KBS World Radio - the footage of ajummas posing among low trees decked out in yellow, removing their socks to soak in spring waters laced with dogwood berries, enjoying tteok embellished with the dried fruits of Cornus officinalis, otherwise known as Sansuyu in Korea,  Japanese Cornelian Cherry or Shanzhuyu (Sour Mountain Date translated from the Chinese) was enough to make me regret giving this place a miss when I visited Korea in the spring of 2007.

I'd dismissed the flowers of this tree as dull in comparison to the magnolia, plum and cherry blossom but I   didn't realise until yesterday that the dried red berries that mum uses in her herbal soups and  steamed chicken dishes came from this specie. The photos of the Sansuyu Festival usually feature trees sprouting pale gold  blooms and after covering forsythia in one posting, I wasn't going to bother with another yellow flower. The red berries are only evident in fall or autumn, hence my failure to make the connection till yesterday.

Those of you in Korea who happen to be in Gurye county may want to go hunting for a tombstone in Sandong village. It's called ‘sansuyu simok’ and aside from the 28,000 sansuyu trees here, it is the sole evidence of the young Chinese girl from Shandong province who brought with her seeds of her hometown trees when she married a Korean here. Now the village produces about  60 percent of all the sansuyu fruit in Korea.

The fruit's not only useful as traditional herbal medicine but also has been mixed with other fruits and herbs for a local health drink and has even found its way into facial masks.

Emperor Qian Long of the Manchu Dynasty thought the sansuyu could increase longevity while many modern-day Koreans and Chinese still consume the dried fruit in various forms. If I get the chance to visit Korea in autumn again, I'll make it a point to visit Sandong Village and offer my services in helping to harvest these ruby-like berries in the hope of taking some freshly-picked sansuyu fruits for mum.


Sources:

http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/consumer/factsheets/trees-new/cornus_officinalis.html
http://www.mdidea.com/products/proper/proper01304.html
http://www.freebase.com/view/en/cornus_officinalis
http://rki.kbs.co.kr/english/culturenlife/culturenlife_touringkorea_detail.htm?no=467
http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/art/2009/10/203_20685.html
http://world.kbs.co.kr/archive/tour/archive/archive_e/e_t030326.htm
http://csjfood.com/english/page2_2_06.html
http://www.alibaba.com/showroom/fruit_face_mask.html
http://www.rbgsyd.nsw.gov.au/tomah/the_garden/blooming_calendar/Cornus_officinalis

Gwanghallu in Namwon

"You're here to see Gwanghallu, aren't you?" The ajumma at the yeogwan in Namwon asked me as I was about to explore the town. Huh? I wasn't even sure why I had come to this place - just a vague idea that it was the place where Im Kwon-taek had shot the movie, Chunhyang,  with a pansori singer narrating the story of Korea's Romeo and Juliet.

Obviously I hadn't done my homework but fortunately, it wasn't too late in the day for me to find my way to Gwanghallu, the main destination of tourists who visit Namwon. It's a Korean-style garden with a charming array of ponds, pavilions, bridges and cottages built during the reign of King Sejong in the 15th century.

According to the tourist brochure, " Gwanghalluwon represents a traditional house and garden structure which shows the philosophy and ideals of  (the Koreans') ancestors. There is a lake with Gwanghalluwon in the centre, and three islands in the lake, symbolising Hallasan, Geumgangsan and Jirisan."

The garden was originally known as Gwangtongru  but renamed "Gwanghallu" which was known as a mythical area where beauties resided on the moon. Indeed, it seemed the perfect setting for a young aristocrat to fall in love with the daughter of a kisaeng. Apparently the hero of the story was in Wanwoljeong Pavilion when he first spotted the heroine on a swing in the distance.

In the evening light, I could see a few couples strolling in the garden, presumably reenacting their own falling-in-love scenes as they drew inspiration from the soothing setting. it wasn't so easy though as there were also groups of giggling schoolgirls screaming with laughter. Romance wasn't on my mind either as I was busy shooting off emails in a small TIC booth which I was pleasantly surprised to find on the grounds.

sources:
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264601

Maehwa Festival

There are three places in South Korea where you have your fill of plum or apricot blossoms ( maehwa). Top of the list is  the Gwangyang Festival in the southern province of Jeollanam-do. it will be held between the 13th and the 21st of March this year.

Reason to head south to Maehwa Village a.k.a. Seomjin Village near Gwangyang City? It has the reputation of possessing the highest number of Japanese apricot trees ( more than 100,000 trees apparently).

 It's hard to imagine what life in this quiet village by the Seomjin River was like before Kim Ocheon brought the saplings from Japan to transplant them on the mountain slopes here around 1940. Other villagers soon caught the maehwa fever, continued his good work and now they can share the fruits ( literally and figuratively) with the rest of their countrypeople as well as tourists from around the world. We can now enjoy organic maekwa fruits as well as other related food and drink items made from the green variety known as Cheong-maesil.

If you have a car, take the scenic road which runs alongside National Road No. 19, with the Seomjingang River on its left. Don't forget to pack lots of film and batteries for your cameras as you're bound to get trigger happy capturing shot after shot of maehwa in all its pastel glory.

If you don't fancy sharing the joys of springtime with crowds of visitors, check out the second place which also has Japanese apricots at Bohae-maehwa (Japanese apricot) Farm in Yejeong-ri, Sani-myeon Haenam-gun, also in Jeollanam-do. It's the property of the Bohae Distillery Company  with around 14,000 Japanese apricot trees and you're advised to phone the farm beforehand (☎061-532-4959) to check when exactly is the best time to visit.

It may be too late already to catch the blossoming of these flowers in Jeju Island but you may make a note to be there next year at Hueree Nature Farm which also has a mini maehwa fest. If the timing is off, at least you have a great picnic and enjoy the pastoral setting complete with farm animals.
Sources:
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_2_1.jsp?cid=700154
http://www.gwangyang.go.kr/maehwa/