Jellyfish Alert For Those in Jeju

YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED.
The National Fisheries Research and Development Institute has sounded the alarm. From its eyes in the skies, it has been tracking a group of 160,000 jellyfish which are expected to reach the southern coast of Jeju-do by this weekend. The jellyfish bloom may then move on to the western and south-eastern coastlines. That means those planning summer vacations in Haeundae or Buan Beaches and so on should exercise caution when swimming, snorkeling or diving.

It’s a humbling thing to realize that the Echizen jellyfish or Nomura’s jellyfish, way down on the evolutionary ladder, have outlasted dinosaurs ( and will probably be around long after the last man or woman on Earth passes on. In the ultimate game of Survivor, these brainless, heartless, boneless and bloodless beings, which can reach a maximum weight of 200 kgs and head spans of 2 m in diameter, may end up the winners in the long-run.

Nomura jellyfish in Little Munsom island, Jeju-do. Taken by Janne Hellsten from Finland

Happened to watch a rerun of a National Geographic TV documentary on this very subject a few weeks ago. It’s not just a problem for the Koreans and the Japanese who live near the East China Sea but it’s happening in different parts of the world. I’m dismayed because I’m not sure if this means my snorkeling days are over. At the same time, I’m fascinated to see how these simpletons of the marine world move so gracefully but I’m also mortified to realize how they give new and sinister meaning to the proverb: “The meek shall inherit the earth.”

But then again, according to scientists, we helped them thrive. Over-fishing may have gotten rid of the natural predators that usually eat the jellyfish larvae before they transform from polyps to stinging machines. Fertilizers and sewage that find their way into the seas may have created the ideal breeding grounds for them.

The Three Gorges Dam in China has been identified as a probable culprit as the resulting phosphorus and nitrogen levels also create conducive environments for the Nomura jellyfish. Global warming is yet another suspect. Even when frustrated Japanese fishermen tried to kill them in large numbers, they may have ironically triggered off a greater release of spawn.

Photograph courtesy Shin-ichi Uye, Hiroshima University

See earlier posting on other perils from the sea.



sources:
http://www.zmescience.com/ecology/climate/giant-files-nomura-and-lions-mane-jellyfish-000026/

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nomura's_jellyfish
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Nomura_jellyfish_2009_Korea_b.jpg
http://www.arirang.co.kr/News/News_View.asp?nseq=105428&code=Ne2&category=2
http://lookatkorea.com/blog/korea/archives/tag/jellyfish/
http://tokyolifer.spaces.live.com/?_c11_BlogPart_pagedir=Next&_c11_BlogPart_handle=cns!C15CE2153B2A6689!3564&_c11_BlogPart_BlogPart=blogview&_c=BlogPart
http://marinesciencetoday.com/2009/06/11/jellyfish-overpopulation-a-threat-to-the-oceans/

http://news.nationalgeographic.com/news/2009/07/photogalleries/giant-jellyfish-invasion-japan-pictures/photo2.html

Seven Commandments For Cittaslow Visitors

Came across this article from the JoongAng Daily which reported how the Cittaslow Movement wasn't really working out for the local population. Hordes of tourists who descend on such villages create jammed roads and piles of rubbish, amongst other problems.

So here are unfriendly but necessary rules I'd recommend to protect the slow lifestyle of Jeungdo under threat:

1. Thou shalt forsake thy private transport. ( leave your car at home; walk or hire a bike instead).

2. Thou shalt not covet the fruit of thy Cittaslow neighbour's labour. ( in short, don't pinch the farmers' produce!)

3. Thou shalt not be led into temptation and submit to your nicotine addiction.( Please don't stink up the air with your ciggies!)

4. Thou shalt bear the burden of any rubbish you have and carry it home. ( the limited resources of these places can't cope with the litter left by visitors)

5. Honour the privacy and respect the property of those who dwell in the Cittaslow homes. ( please don't turn them into prisoners in their own home).

6. Thou shalt practise forbearance and suffer patiently the slower service. ( after all, you did come for a slower pace of life, right? )

7. Remember the commandments for the National Parks and keep these places holy and inviolate as well ( ie. take nothing but photos, leave nothing but footprints).

BTW, If anyone can suggest three more rules  to make a complete set of commandments, I'd be grateful!

UPDATE: Comment from Aaron McKenzie ( thanks!)

I saw this article, too. I had to laugh, though, because in the very same issue of the Joong Ang, was an article about the new "slow lifestyle" movement which containted this quote:



"Businesses that aim to enrich living spaces also stand to gain from this trend. The recently designated “slow city” of Jeung Island boasts large expanses of mud flats, salt fields and wetlands."

So, on the same day, the Joong Ang reports on how folks on Jeungdo are complaining about too many damned tourists...and then the paper essentially recommends that folks go have a look at the place.

sources:
http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2923048
http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_4_12_15_4.jsp
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=815540

From Hola To Olle in Jeju

Seo or Suh Myung Sook, director of Jeju Olle ( pic by Ahn Sang-soo)

It all began when Suh Myung-sook said Hello or maybe it was Hola to Henney from Britain somewhere along the El Camino de Santiago. After 23 years working in the media, Suh had decided to quit her post as editor-in-chief of OhmyNews and take time off in Spain. The chance meeting with a fellow walker from Britain and the positive experiences on the long walk prompted her to develop her own pilgrimage trail back home.

Ms Suh decided that Jeju had the most potential and it wasn't long before she hit upon the name "Jeju Olle" for her project as the word "olle" in the Jeju dialect refers to "the narrow path between the street and one's doorstep".

If I were a documentary film-maker, I'd trace the story of how Ms Suh's dream was realised as she set up her trail exploration team, persuaded the people of Jeju ( skeptical landowners in particular) to agree to letting strangers on their land, and enlisted the manpower of soldiers training in a local camp.

Unfortunately for me, the Olle trails weren't opened yet when I visited Jeju but since the first trail opened in September, 2007, at least 14 other trails have been established mostly along the coastline of Jeju and more than 100,000 people have been able to enjoy the fruits of Ms Suh's endeavours. Some have voiced concerns that the popularity of the trails may have an adverse effect on the local ecology but I can't comment on that. All I can say is the more I see the pics of the trails, the more I wish I was in Jeju right this minute. I am so ready to hit those trails - well, not physically ready but mentally and emotionally -yeah!

Jeju can often seem too touristy with its resorts, amusement parks and various galleries and museums. But with its Olles, visitors in search of the natural face of Jeju should be able to find plenty of opportunities to commune with nature. I know I will,

Click here  or here for Routes 1 to 13 and click here for Route 14.

Download guidebook on Jeju Olle here.

For examples, see below:

Route 1 Admire views of Seongsan Ilchulbong Peak as you climb an oreum, pass through salt fields and end up in Gwangchigi Beach.

For more details: Routes 1, 4 and 6

Route No 4  Start from Pyoseon Beach Resort and make your way up Mang Oreum through a pine forest. Pass an old beacon mound before you reach Namwon Port and Keuneong Promenade.

Route No. 6 -Take a ride across the Soesokkak Estuary on a Te-u ( traditional boat) before visiting the Lee Jung Seop Gallery and the eco park around the Cheonjiyeon Falls. The walk ends at Oedolgae Seaside Promenade.

sources:
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=726174
http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/art/2010/01/144_52041.html
http://english.ohmynews.com/articleview/article_view.asp?at_code=437591
http://www.jejuolle.org/main/main.jsp
http://www.ssahn.com/archives/2008_03.htm

Jeju, Samseonghyeol: Begin At The Beginning

The first stopover in Jeju for many tourists in guided tours may well be Yongduam Rock. But my friend and I thought we’d start with Samseonghyeol, which was close to the Hanmi-jang Yeogwan in the old section of Jeju town. Click here for a video of the place.

In the nearby museum, it had been mildly interesting to watch the animated video which recounted the legend of Tamna, the settlement we know now as Jeju. Three demi-gods apparently emerged from three holes to found Tamna. Subsequently, Go or Ko, Yang and Bu, originally hunter-gatherers became farmers when they married princesses from the Byeongnang Kingdom. Each spring and autumn, their descendants still perform special rites to honour them at altars near the three holes

The holes are supposedly linked to lava tubes which lead who knows where. I don’t suppose anyone has really explored them, judging from the grass-covered appearance of the three depressions in the ground of this supposedly sacred site. I’d love to know if they actually lead to someplace interesting. One website made this claim: “The holes are forming triangular shape together and do not get wet by rain drops or snow. Trees surrounding them look as if they are bowing the three founders which amazes visitors.”

Don’t know about THAT but I was impressed by the peaceful ambience of the park. The trees did more for me than the holes of Samseonghyeol.

sources:
http://www.teachenglishinasia.net/samseong-hyeol
http://www.orientalarchitecture.com/koreasouth/jeju/samseonghyeol.php
http://english.tour2jeju.net/main/view.php?idno=50058
http://www.samsunghyeol.or.kr/introduction.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tamna
http://english.tour2jeju.net/main/movie.php?idno=50058

Thank You To A Sentry In Bugaksan

Dear Sentry,

I'm writing this long overdue note (late by two years) to thank you for not shooting me down. You probably won't remember me but I still want to thank you for not assuming I was a North Korean spy with evil designs on President Lee.

Somewhere along the steep climb up Bugaksan, I had stopped to catch my breath and quench my thirst. The cap of my water bottle had slipped out of my grasp and fallen onto the no-trespassing zone. I was about to clamber over the low railing to get it when you came rushing up and gestured urgently that THAT was a NO-NO. I thought you'd hop over the fence to pick up the trespassing cap straightaway for me but even YOU had to get clearance from your superior through your walkie-talkie first.

It was a most embarrassing but memorable moment. Later, I saw the tree which was riddled with bullet shots when some North Koreans had attempted to assassinate President Park Chung-hee back in 1961. It drove home again the reminder that Korea is still officially a country at war and the peace over the Korean peninsula is still a fragile one. So once again, thanks for not jumping to conclusions when I was about to jump across the low fence and for retrieving  the cap of my water bottle in Bugaksan.

Gratefully,
ajumma


source:
http://english.seoul.go.kr/gtk/news/news_view.php?idx=561&cPage=101

What To Do If Stranded In Incheon International Airport

First of all, my sympathies to those have been stranded in various airports around the world, no thanks to the volcanic eruption in Iceland.  But honestly, for those who think they've got a raw deal being stuck in Incheon International Airport, I'd say I can think of worse airports to be stranded in for days. After all, it's been voted Best Airport for five consecutive years.

Granted it's not a cheap place to find yourself in especially with your won or US dollars running out. However, Incheon International Airport has some special facilities for tourists which could keep visitors occupied for some time. Eversince I stumbled upon the Cultural Experience Zone for example, I've made it a point to visit it while on my way home from Korea. In fact, once,   I was so engrossed in one activity that I had my name called out on the public address system because I hadn't boarded my plane yet.

I had been too preoccupied finishing up my hanji box container at the Traditional Korean Cultural Experience Zone on the third floor of the Passenger Terminal ( East Wing: Gate 24 / West Wing: Gate 40) It was a very relaxing time concentrating on applying glue to the readily-cut pieces of hanji paper to the parts of the box which I could take home in a bag with printed description of the traditional craft.

Visitors with half an hour to spare can make their own traditional kites, knots, fans or paper crafts with the complimentary ready-to-be-assembled materials and guidance provided by the friendly English-speaking staff there. In previous visits, I had brought home my own hand-made souvenirs such as phone accessories made from jewelled toned silk pouches and a paper tray.

Apparently there are also musical performances on traditional instruments but you'd have to be pretty fortunate in terms of timing to catch these. But the Exhibition of Korean Crafts Hall is open pretty much all the time on the fourth floor of the Transfer Lounge. When I was there the last time, some beautiful embroidery work was featured there. There are also exhibits from the Cultural Museum of Korea displayed on the fourth floor in the Concourse Area. So if you didn't have time to visit museum in Seoul, here's your chance to catch up on some Korean history and culture.

There used to be a small supermarket located in one of the lower floors near the basement of IIA but I looked for it in vain during my last visit in 2008. More expensive retail outlets have taken over, I'm sorry to note. Those who wish to do last-minute shopping for their instant noodles now have to take a shuttle bus to the nearby E-mart hypermarket.

Hallyu fans may want to check out the KNTO space devoted to the Hallyu Wave between Gate #12-13 and Gate #1-2 on the arrival floor.  ( Hours: 07:00 - 22:00; Tel: +82-32-743-2600~3). If you've lots of won to spare, pamper yourself to Hallyuwood star treatment in Spa on Air, a luxury spa within IIA. If not, spend your 500 won coins surfing on the Net in the many PCs available for use within the airport.

sources:
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/GK/GK_EN_2_7_2_1.jsp
http://english.chosun.com/site/data/html_dir/2010/04/20/2010042000398.html

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Incheon_International_Airport
http://www.lifeinkorea.com/Travel2/440
http://www.airport.kr/eng/
http://www.korea4expats.com/news-Incheon-intl-airport.html
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=609933
http://www.kous.or.kr/foreign/eng/kous02.htm

Korean Folk Village

For those who don’t have the time to visit the Hahoe Maeul, in Andong or Nagan-eup-seong near Suncheon right down south, Korean Folk Village near Suwon is the most convenient introduction one can get to the lives of Koreans in the past.

 Pretty pavilion beside a wishing tree in KFV

An open-air museum of sorts, the KFV gives visitors a vivid impression of what life was like in Korea during the Joseon Dynasty.

Greet the wooden guardians which protect the village

There are various houses ranging from a humble peasant’s cottage to an aristocrat’s mansion, an array of shops with wares ranging from traditional medicine to straw sandals.

Rustic traditions kept alive here; wonder if the beast is on the KFV payroll

See for yourself the difference between the northern and southern styles of traditional home architecture. Observe craftsmen at work making pots, horseshoes, ropes and paper the traditional way.

Dried calabashes, corn, fermented soybean bricks, red peppers - staples of a bygone era

Check out the various foot bridges which span the stream hugging the eastern side of the KFV. Satisfy your curiosity about what a Korean haunted house looks like and visit the local female shaman.

 This footbridge is one of easiest ones to cross; there are others which test your balance!

Get married the traditional Korean way in KFV - serious. But book in advance!

Keep a lookout for your favourite Hallyu star as this place is a popular shooting location for K historical drama.

Some Suggestions:

1. Getting there – click here.

2. Be prepared to spend more than half the day there – work out a walking route around the scheduled performances ( wedding ceremony, acrobats, samul-nori, horse riding).

 Don't miss this - Samulnori performances - one of the highlights of KFV

Check out the map on the KFV website.

source: http://www.koreanfolk.co.kr/folk/english/guide/guide_sche.html

3. There used to be a two tier pricing system - the cheaper one didn’t include admission to the amusement park side but if you were visiting with children, you probably had to go for the pricier option. Looks that the option's no longer available from the looks of the current ticketing scheme on the KFV website though the KNTO website displays the older ticketing schedule ( I'm guessing the KNTO page needs updating!)

12,000 won (adults), 9,000 won ( adolescents and seniors), 8,000 won (child)

4. Read up on the various sections in the KFV website before you go. The information brochure which you get when you buy your ticket doesn’t give as much and the explanatory boards are sketchy.

5. KBS World Radio video on KFV – juxtaposes old photos from its archives with present day video shots.

Snacks on sale in the open-air marketplace

6. Note that the food stalls in the open-air market section are tucked right at the back and there’s a long walk to get there, so if you tend to feel peckish throughout the day, carry your own snacks and water.

7. KFV has been the outdoor location site for various dramas such as Daejanggeum and Painter of the Wind.

sources:
http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/culturenlife/culturenlife_touringkorea_detail.htm?No=436
http://www.koreanfolk.co.kr/folk/english/contact/contact_tran.html
http://www.virtualtourist.com/travel/Asia/South_Korea/Soul_tukpyolsi/Seoul-1058426/Things_To_Do-Seoul-Korean_Folk_Village-BR-2.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Korean_Folk_Village
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264121

Nature Plays Cat and Mouse With Korea's Weather Forecasters?

I used to trust the annual schedules that indicated the best times to visit different parts of Korea to see the cherry blossoms - didn't have problems in 2007 using the schedule posted on the KNTO website to plan my itinerary.  But these days, it looks as if nature is making difficult the job of predicting when the cherry blossoms will appear. The discrepancy of more than a week is quite glaring and most inconvenient for those outside Korea who want to fly in specially to see these springtime flowers and to take part in the spring festivals. Now I wonder how much credence the autumn foliage schedule will have.

"What took you so long?" Cherry blossoms finally bloom at Yeouido around the 16th and 17th of  March.

According to this 2010 schedule taken from the KNTO website, the cherry trees were expected to bloom around the 6th of April in Seoul.

sources:

http://english.chosun.com/site/data/html_dir/2010/04/19/2010041900396.html

http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/FU/FU_EN_15.jsp?nCategoryID=&searchType=&keyword=&gotoPage=5&cid=970238&cCode=&nCategoryID=&searchType=&searchKeyword=

AirAsia X Gets Green Light for Seoul

Seoul, here we come! ( hopefully by October!)

Malaysians who are K-pop or Hallyu fans, rejoice! AirAsia X has finally got the rights to fly seven times a week to Seoul. Though the budget airline has yet to iron out details as to the actual date of its inaugural flight, it may coincide with the visit of the South Korean premier to Malaysia when both countries celebrate 50 years of diplomatic ties.

The news may not just mean that more Malaysian tourists will soon be flying into Seoul to stock up on their supplies of ginseng, Nongshim instant noodles or Kpop music CDs. It could also mean more Koreans flying into Malaysia to take advantage of the lower fees for playing golf and the Malaysian sun to escape the winter blues. Great win-win situation for almost all but how will it affect the bottom lines for Malaysian Airlines and Korean Airlines?

Am assuming Air Asia executives are eyeing Incheon International Airport. I've got nothing against IIA - it's my favourite airport but can't help wishing Air Asia would consider flying a few times a week into Yangyang Airport in Gangwon-do. That way, it would be easier for visitors to get to Soraksan National Park more quickly. Not everyone may want the city lights and those in favour of flying into Seoul would dismiss this notion as impractical, etc. but I guess I'm in the minority. Still, I shouldn't be greedy - so once again, three cheers for Air Asia X and please do keep the airfares to Seoul encouragingly low.

source:
http://biz.thestar.com.my/news/story.asp?file=/2010/4/16/business/6065503&sec=business.

More Feasting Than Fighting, Hwaseong's North-east Pavilion

Here's another section of Hwaseong in Suwon built by King Jeongjo. The north-east pavilion, Dongbuk Gangnu, is perched  prettily on a hillock overlooking a pond named Yongyeon. Given the panoramic views which it commands, it's been more popular as a venue for picnics and feasting than as its intended purpose as a command post.

The graceful outlines of the pavilion seem even more elegant in this drawing featured in an uigwe detailing the construction of Hwaseong. Thanks to Henny Savenije for letting me reproduce this picture.

Beauty inspires many names. The north-east pavilion is also known as "gaknu" or "angle tower" as well as Banghwasuryujeong.

The view from this pavilion, may be regarded as one of the eight famous views of Suwon but the view OF this pavilion is quite impressive as well. If I had had more time in Suwon, I'd have packed a picnic basket and spent at least an hour there.  

Sources:
http://www.hwasong.henny-savenije.pe.kr/
http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=255802
http://www.ekoreajournal.net/upload/pdf/PDF4118
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Hwaseong_Third_North_Secret_Gate_and_Dongbuk_Gangnu_-_2009-03-01.JPG
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Hwasgph2.jpg
http://eng.suwon.ne.kr/sub/travel_tour/travel_tour_01_01.asp?menuCode=0401
http://english.chosun.com/site/data/html_dir/2009/04/19/2009041900418.html

Korean Cultural Village

The Korean Folk Village near Suwon is usually considered a pretty good introduction to traditional life particularly for those who can't spare the time to explore the real deals such as Hahoe Village, Andong or Nagan-eupseong Village near Suncheon.

I had visited KFV way before I went to the other two places so my response was more favourable than it would've been if it had been the other way round. Liked the variety of footbridges across the stream which flanked one side of the village. Also remembered the elderly gentleman at the paper-making mill who patiently demonstrated his skills and the impressive performances of the nori players. It was mildly interesting to observe from a distance a film crew at work, shooting another historical drama but aside from all that, I'm sorry to say I don't really remember that much of KFV.

A pity I hadn't checked out its useful website before making my visit. Click here for a KBS World Radio video clip that covers other entertaining aspects. For more information about admission charges, opening times and transportation link, click here.