Spring's Here, For Some At Least

Snow on Haeundae Beach, Busan - 14 February 2011

While those in the east coast may still be shovelling snow from their rooftops of their houses and cars or pathways outside homes or shops, those on the west coast of the Korean peninsular seem to be enjoying balmy temperatures already.

Snow-covered roofs in Gangwon-do, 17 Feb 2011

Let's hope this spring will be a mild one and more predictable than last year. The cherry blossoms didn't oblige photographers and enthusiasts by appearing on schedule.  There were also unpleasant surprises for Korean farmers last spring.  

Red plum blossoms have appeared at the UN Memorial Park, Busan

KBS reports: "Spring flowers are beginning to bloom on Jeju Island. Rape blossoms, which are regarded as harbingers of spring on the island, are blooming in some coastal areas. The blooming will be at its peak in March and April. Japanese apricot flowers are also in full blossom, signaling that winter is giving in to spring. The temperature even reached as high as 15 degrees Celsius on Jeju last week. Tourists to Jeju are busy bidding farewell to the severe winter and ushering in spring on the southern island." 

White plum blossoms in Hallim Park, Jeju

sources:
http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2932471
http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/news/news_Dm_detail.htm?No=79584
http://www.korea.net/news.do?mode=detail&guid=53309
http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/news/news_photo_detail.htm?No=16025&current_page=
http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/news/news_photo_detail.htm?No=16077&current_page=

An Early Winter or Extra Chilly Autumn in Jeju?

Caption from the KBS website: Hoarfrost forms on trees at Mt. Halla in Jeju Island as morning lows dip to minus 5 degrees Celsius Tuesday

The autumn foliage in Hallasan on Jeju-do was supposed to peak around the 9th of November but guess what? Winter seems to have out-paced autumn, from the looks of this photo featured in the KBS World Radio website.  

Pardon my ignorance as one who lives on the equator but can anyone out there reassure me that hoarfrost doesn't automatically spell the onset of winter? Even so, I'd like my seasons to be clearly demarcated and it's disconcerting to see autumn behave like a different season.

Click here for 2010 autumn foliage forecast.

source:

http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/news/news_photo_detail.htm?No=15541

Jellyfish Alert For Those in Jeju

YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED.
The National Fisheries Research and Development Institute has sounded the alarm. From its eyes in the skies, it has been tracking a group of 160,000 jellyfish which are expected to reach the southern coast of Jeju-do by this weekend. The jellyfish bloom may then move on to the western and south-eastern coastlines. That means those planning summer vacations in Haeundae or Buan Beaches and so on should exercise caution when swimming, snorkeling or diving.

It’s a humbling thing to realize that the Echizen jellyfish or Nomura’s jellyfish, way down on the evolutionary ladder, have outlasted dinosaurs ( and will probably be around long after the last man or woman on Earth passes on. In the ultimate game of Survivor, these brainless, heartless, boneless and bloodless beings, which can reach a maximum weight of 200 kgs and head spans of 2 m in diameter, may end up the winners in the long-run.

Nomura jellyfish in Little Munsom island, Jeju-do. Taken by Janne Hellsten from Finland

Happened to watch a rerun of a National Geographic TV documentary on this very subject a few weeks ago. It’s not just a problem for the Koreans and the Japanese who live near the East China Sea but it’s happening in different parts of the world. I’m dismayed because I’m not sure if this means my snorkeling days are over. At the same time, I’m fascinated to see how these simpletons of the marine world move so gracefully but I’m also mortified to realize how they give new and sinister meaning to the proverb: “The meek shall inherit the earth.”

But then again, according to scientists, we helped them thrive. Over-fishing may have gotten rid of the natural predators that usually eat the jellyfish larvae before they transform from polyps to stinging machines. Fertilizers and sewage that find their way into the seas may have created the ideal breeding grounds for them.

The Three Gorges Dam in China has been identified as a probable culprit as the resulting phosphorus and nitrogen levels also create conducive environments for the Nomura jellyfish. Global warming is yet another suspect. Even when frustrated Japanese fishermen tried to kill them in large numbers, they may have ironically triggered off a greater release of spawn.

Photograph courtesy Shin-ichi Uye, Hiroshima University

See earlier posting on other perils from the sea.



sources:
http://www.zmescience.com/ecology/climate/giant-files-nomura-and-lions-mane-jellyfish-000026/

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nomura's_jellyfish
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Nomura_jellyfish_2009_Korea_b.jpg
http://www.arirang.co.kr/News/News_View.asp?nseq=105428&code=Ne2&category=2
http://lookatkorea.com/blog/korea/archives/tag/jellyfish/
http://tokyolifer.spaces.live.com/?_c11_BlogPart_pagedir=Next&_c11_BlogPart_handle=cns!C15CE2153B2A6689!3564&_c11_BlogPart_BlogPart=blogview&_c=BlogPart
http://marinesciencetoday.com/2009/06/11/jellyfish-overpopulation-a-threat-to-the-oceans/

http://news.nationalgeographic.com/news/2009/07/photogalleries/giant-jellyfish-invasion-japan-pictures/photo2.html

Think Twice Before You Touch That Shellfish!

Wasn't going to write about this embarrassing episode when I did a tour of half the public toilets on Jeju the day after I had some seafood stew for dinner in a restaurant on the island.  But after coming across a recent headline from the JoongAng Daily entitled "Toxin In Shellfish Is Spreading" ( date: 30th April, 2010), I've changed my mind. Don't want your vacation in Korea to be spoilt as mine almost was.

My seafood stew didn't look as good as this though.

Those who love their haemultang ( seafood soup), be careful. According to the news report, the heavy rainfalls this spring have caused toxin levels to rise in some shellfish. Looks like the farmers aren't the only ones who are facing hard times this spring, no thanks to the unseasonable conditions. ( see previous posting).

Extracted from the JoongAng Daily:

Because of the spread of paralytic shellfish poisoning, or PSP, harvesting bans have been put on many coastal areas, starting with Jinhae Bay, in Jinhae, South Gyeongsang on March 29. In less than one month, PSP spread north, crossing over Busan and onto Ulsan in the eastern coast, and then to the western coast. Experts say that this year’s poison levels are the highest ever for some areas, due to excessive rain......When humans digest PSP, it can cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, a choking feeling and can even be fatal in extreme cases....the most common symptoms are “vomiting, which leads to difficulty breathing, and a muscle paralysis."

Fortunately for me, I  only suffered a mild case of food poisoning (must have eaten the wrong mussel or something as my travel companion had no problems and we shared the same dish) and didn't experience any of the symptoms described above. But I have sworn off seafood,  more or less, whenever I was on holiday.
I don't want to sound alarmist but just note in case your mouth starts swelling or a wave of nausea is sweeping over you after consuming any kind of shellfish.

It's been suggested that you:
1.  stick your finger down your throat to induce vomitting
2. drink lots of salt water
3. take Syrup of Ipecac ( if the finger-down-the-throat method doesn't get you retching quickly)
4. go straight to the hospital even though you've followed steps 1 to 3

sources:
http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2919879
http://seagrant.uaf.edu/features/PSP/PSP.pdf
http://samedi.livejournal.com/326273.html

From Hola To Olle in Jeju

Seo or Suh Myung Sook, director of Jeju Olle ( pic by Ahn Sang-soo)

It all began when Suh Myung-sook said Hello or maybe it was Hola to Henney from Britain somewhere along the El Camino de Santiago. After 23 years working in the media, Suh had decided to quit her post as editor-in-chief of OhmyNews and take time off in Spain. The chance meeting with a fellow walker from Britain and the positive experiences on the long walk prompted her to develop her own pilgrimage trail back home.

Ms Suh decided that Jeju had the most potential and it wasn't long before she hit upon the name "Jeju Olle" for her project as the word "olle" in the Jeju dialect refers to "the narrow path between the street and one's doorstep".

If I were a documentary film-maker, I'd trace the story of how Ms Suh's dream was realised as she set up her trail exploration team, persuaded the people of Jeju ( skeptical landowners in particular) to agree to letting strangers on their land, and enlisted the manpower of soldiers training in a local camp.

Unfortunately for me, the Olle trails weren't opened yet when I visited Jeju but since the first trail opened in September, 2007, at least 14 other trails have been established mostly along the coastline of Jeju and more than 100,000 people have been able to enjoy the fruits of Ms Suh's endeavours. Some have voiced concerns that the popularity of the trails may have an adverse effect on the local ecology but I can't comment on that. All I can say is the more I see the pics of the trails, the more I wish I was in Jeju right this minute. I am so ready to hit those trails - well, not physically ready but mentally and emotionally -yeah!

Jeju can often seem too touristy with its resorts, amusement parks and various galleries and museums. But with its Olles, visitors in search of the natural face of Jeju should be able to find plenty of opportunities to commune with nature. I know I will,

Click here  or here for Routes 1 to 13 and click here for Route 14.

Download guidebook on Jeju Olle here.

For examples, see below:

Route 1 Admire views of Seongsan Ilchulbong Peak as you climb an oreum, pass through salt fields and end up in Gwangchigi Beach.

For more details: Routes 1, 4 and 6

Route No 4  Start from Pyoseon Beach Resort and make your way up Mang Oreum through a pine forest. Pass an old beacon mound before you reach Namwon Port and Keuneong Promenade.

Route No. 6 -Take a ride across the Soesokkak Estuary on a Te-u ( traditional boat) before visiting the Lee Jung Seop Gallery and the eco park around the Cheonjiyeon Falls. The walk ends at Oedolgae Seaside Promenade.

sources:
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=726174
http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/art/2010/01/144_52041.html
http://english.ohmynews.com/articleview/article_view.asp?at_code=437591
http://www.jejuolle.org/main/main.jsp
http://www.ssahn.com/archives/2008_03.htm

Jeju, Samseonghyeol: Begin At The Beginning

The first stopover in Jeju for many tourists in guided tours may well be Yongduam Rock. But my friend and I thought we’d start with Samseonghyeol, which was close to the Hanmi-jang Yeogwan in the old section of Jeju town. Click here for a video of the place.

In the nearby museum, it had been mildly interesting to watch the animated video which recounted the legend of Tamna, the settlement we know now as Jeju. Three demi-gods apparently emerged from three holes to found Tamna. Subsequently, Go or Ko, Yang and Bu, originally hunter-gatherers became farmers when they married princesses from the Byeongnang Kingdom. Each spring and autumn, their descendants still perform special rites to honour them at altars near the three holes

The holes are supposedly linked to lava tubes which lead who knows where. I don’t suppose anyone has really explored them, judging from the grass-covered appearance of the three depressions in the ground of this supposedly sacred site. I’d love to know if they actually lead to someplace interesting. One website made this claim: “The holes are forming triangular shape together and do not get wet by rain drops or snow. Trees surrounding them look as if they are bowing the three founders which amazes visitors.”

Don’t know about THAT but I was impressed by the peaceful ambience of the park. The trees did more for me than the holes of Samseonghyeol.

sources:
http://www.teachenglishinasia.net/samseong-hyeol
http://www.orientalarchitecture.com/koreasouth/jeju/samseonghyeol.php
http://english.tour2jeju.net/main/view.php?idno=50058
http://www.samsunghyeol.or.kr/introduction.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tamna
http://english.tour2jeju.net/main/movie.php?idno=50058

Letter to An Ajumma In Jeju

Dear ajumma,

On the strength of the Lonely Planet's description of you as the friendliest person on Jeju, we chose to stay in your yeogwan, Hanmi-jang near the Dongmun Rotary in the old part of Jeju town. LP didn't lie - you were really friendly and hospitable. A basket of fresh mandarin oranges sat in one corner of your reception area, inviting us to help ourselves to sample the local fruits whenever we pleased. You helped us make a call to the agency which ran a local tour bus so that we could be picked up at a convenient time and place. You even offered us freshly boiled water when you saw us with our styrofoam containers of instant noodles.

One thing you never shared with us but that's not your fault because I was too timid to ask and didn't have enough Korean anyway - how on earth do you maintain such a wonderful complexion? You were more than twenty years our senior yet your face and smile were far more youthful than our own tired visages. What's your secret?

Fond wishes from
an ajumma abroad

It Happened In Jeju

Am ajumma enough to remember watching on VCD, "Wind Song, Love Song", the movie featuring Jang Dong-gun and Ko So-young, the couple who have now been dubbed the Brangelina of Korea ( though the basis for THAT comparison eludes me).

Jang Dong-gun's chemistry with Ko So-young in that movie didn't stand out ( though Jeju as the location for most of the film did impress in parts)  and I preferred Ko's performance in "One Day" where she plays half of a couple dealing with the loss of a child.

Anyway, reel romance has translated into a real romance and the two leads are tying the knot this May. Will they be returning to Jeju for their honeymoon? Don't think so. For more pre-wedding pics, click here. Meanwhile, enjoy the MV from the film that brought them together.



sources:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LE36E3_EWB0&nofeather=True
http://english.chosun.com/site/data/html_dir/2010/04/23/2010042301045.html
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/CU/content/cms_view_861743.jsp
http://english.chosun.com/site/data/html_dir/2010/03/08/2010030801039.html
http://koreanfilm.org/kfilm99.html#lovewind

SHIRI - a fish, a wish and a codename

Turning the clock back to 1999 -to celebrate the 10th anniversary of the release of SHIRI - Korea's first blockbuster and the rise of Korean films in the global arena. What a cast - Han Suk-kyu, Choi Minsik, Song Kang-ho, and Kim Yoon-jin - big names that have grown even bigger. It has action, romance, tragedy, humour, tight editing and great acting plus a song by Carol Kidd that closes the movie beautifully.

The name of the film refers to:
1. A kind of freshwater fish, native to Korea - apparently it only exists in the purest of waters so ironically can only be found in the DMZ.
2. The codename for the North Korean spy, one of the main characters in the movie
3. a wish for reunification ( not just for the divided Koreas but also for the lovers)
"Here's the official music video from the film Shiri, directed by Kang Je Gyu (Brotherhood) and starring Han Kyu-Suk (Scarlet Letter), Choi Min-Sik (OldBoy), Kang Ho-Song (JSA) and Kim Yoon-Jin (Lost)."

Thank you to bobbybulletbobson for posting on youtube.

BTW, closing scene was shot in Joongmun-dong, Seogwipo, Jeju-do

For Darcy Paquet's review, click here.
For Anthony Leong's review, click here.