A Series of Unfortunate Assumptions, SUNCHEON, Part 1

Here are some lessons learnt the hard way from my visit to Suncheon.

False Assumption No.1 - There are stacks of yeogwans or minbaks near express bus terminals all over South Korea.That may be true of a number of places outside Seoul but it apparently isn’t true of Suncheon. As a solo backpacker, I don’t usually like to reach an unfamiliar place in the dark but a change in my travel plans means that I reach Suncheon after sunset. Come out of the bus terminal, expecting to see signs which read “Yeogwan” or “Minbak” and to settle down quickly for the night.

But alas, no such luck and I’m desperate enough to startle a group of schoolgirls to ask them in my broken Korean for directions. In between their giggles, curious stares and their hesitant English ( probably the first time they’ve had to use it outside their classrooms!), I figure out it’s more prudent to hop into a cab instead of lugging my bag all over Suncheon town which turns out to be bigger than expected. To my relief, there is a cluster of motels etc. near the train station.

False Assumption No. 2 The Lonely Planet gives information about where to stay for all towns listed under its content pages.
Sorry, LP! You’re usually my trusty companion but you let me down when I turn to you for help on where to stay in Suncheon. So I ask someone in the TIC counter in the train station and he recommends the Bali Motel across the road. The 30,000 won rooms there strain my budget but am impressed by the panel on the wall beside the reception counter which displays photos of the rooms decked out in an amazing range of styles. I make the mistake of opting for a cheaper place a few doors away to save 5000 won.

Turns out the East Motel has very dated and gaudy interiors with a planetary theme for wallpaper and no remote control. Up early next morning and realise in the morning light there are other decent yeogwans so I switch to a 20,000 won place with the reassuring presence of an ajumma running the spotless joint.

False Assumption No.3 Reservations by email automatically mean you have a reservation.

Find out at the TIC counter outside the train station that they’ve not received my email reservation to join the City Tour bus. Or perhaps I shouldn’t have assumed that the Webmaster understood English. Anyway, I find myself appealing to the kind-hearted staff at the TIC and lucky for me, the free tour bus isn’t too crowded.

False Assumption No.4 All PCs in Korea are properly serviced and will work.
Have become so used to the Net being so easily available in South Korea that I am genuinely startled when the computers don’t behave themselves. One PC at the Suncheon Station swallows up my 500 won coins and hangs without so much as an Annyeong right while I’m earnestly typing out an email. GRRRR!

Sources:
http://www.suncheon.go.kr/
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=762729
http://encarta.msn.com/map_701516842/Suncheon.html
http://www.asia-planet.net/korea/suncheon-si.htm

Seoraksan, Part 3 - Osaek in the south corner

Many visitors to GANGWONDO invariably head towards the main centre of SEORAKSAN in the northern sector of this 354 square kilometer park. They usually opt for the inter-city bus from SEOUL ( 12, 400 won, every 1½ hours). Forget about stopping by the capital and head directly for the north-east province famous for its mountains, valleys and beaches.

Seoraksan ( Snowy Crags Mountains) PARK comprises three main sections; most people just visit Outer
Seorak as Seorak-dong  has the best facilities for tourists. Inner Seorak, the most remote part relatively speaking, seems to be the least prepared to deal with throngs of visitors. In the south section of the park, Osaek ( Five Colours) “ boasts both a cold mineral spring and a hot mineral spring….There may be other spas in the country…but none can match Osaek’s combination of delightful hot springs and great scenic beauty.” Enticed by these lines from the Lonely Planet, I decided to visit the southern part first.

It wasn’t difficult to get there from the Incheon International Airport. All one needed to do was to purchase the ticket from a counter just before you exit the IIA, hop onto an express bus just outside the air terminal for Chuncheon and then board another bus at the bus terminal at this gateway to Gangwondo ( buses from Chuncheon to Osaek, 8400 won, every two hours).

The route along Highway 44 is particularly rewarding in the few kilometers just before Osaek at the Hangyeryeong Pass ( 1003 meters high) Those with their own transport have the enviable luxury of lingering in this spot to enjoy some coffee, snacks on sale here while taking the impressive panoramic views of dramatic jagged peaks which loom like giant sentinels guarding this southern gateway into the national park. Others such as yours truly who are held hostage by the inter-city bus schedules have to be content with fleeting glimpses of the Seven Brothers’ Peak or Jujeongol Valley.

Travel Notes:
Bus to Yangyang / Sokcho from Dong Seoul Bus Terminal. Get off at Osaek-ri after passing the Hangyeryeong Pass on Highway 44. 7 buses a day 4 hours and 30 minutes.
Mineral water Osaek yaksu (mineral water) – Osaek oncheon ( spa) rates hotel bath 5000 won, general baths 3000 won)
Chima pokpo ( 5 minutes from Osaek yaksu / 100 m from Greenyard Hotel)