Around Korea By Bus In Two Weeks, Part 1

Here's how I spent two weeks in Korea chasing the fall foliage way back in 2005. Hopefully this will be useful to  independent travellers when they plan their own trips to catch the autumn leaves this year. By no means am I suggesting that the leaves will be in the same condition around those dates - you need to check the latest fall foliage schedule for that!

For more information on buses, click here.

21 Oct - Friday
Bought and boarded from outside the Incheon International Airport, a direct bus to Daejeon. Be careful not to buy the more expensive deluxe bus as the ordinary bus is sufficiently comfortable. BTW, Daejeon is quite attractive with its gingko-tree-lined avenues and promising sculptures in the public parks. Nice to see the leaves of the gingko trees have turned yellow already.

Had a smooth changeover at the bus terminal at Daejeon and got on another bus bound for Gongju.
Found a yeogwan  or inn near the marketplace; most stalls were closed already but still some were still selling enticing piles of recently harvested mushrooms, persimmons and mandarin oranges.  Eateries within the market are usually open till the evening so I could enjoy my first meal of jjajangmyeon in a sikdang within the market.


22 Oct – Saturday
Caught  bus No 2 to Gapsa from the Gongju bus terminal near the marketplace. Too early for autumn foliage here but the rice fields are already golden and ready for harvesting.

Witnessed part of the celebrations for one of Gapsa’s patron monks were underway.

Short walk to waterfall.

Returned to Gongju to ask about Sunday city tour at the Tourist Information Centre. Staff there kindly let me join tour though I hadn’t made a booking. Stumbled upon the city mascot, i.e. a sculpture of bear beyond the TIC.

23 Oct – Sunday
Joined the free Gongju City Tour. It was conducted in Korean only though the tour guide was able to give me very brief commentaries in English.

Morning stops  of this tour included the Songsan-ri Tombs and the Gongju National Museum; admission to the latter was at an incredible deal of 400 won per person. Great weather - blue skies, sunny but cool.  In the afternoon, the bus crossed river towards Gyeryeongsan Pottery Village – Natural History Museum was the last stop.

Remember: advance bookings are strongly recommended. Note - on other days, the tour may cover places like the Pansori Centre and the Folk Museum. Unfortunately the guard changing ceremony at the fortress is not conducted in late autumn and winter.


24 Oct – Monday
Did a morning exploration of Gong-sanseong ( Fortress) near TIC before I boarded the bus for Daejeon Bus Terminal and changed to a bus for Andong. Met the head and host of Jirye Art Village in Andong.  He took all his guests to view  the  house of Yi clan in Andong and also its brick pagoda  before we were driven to JAV.

Passed orchards full of trees laden with apples. Trees with quinces and persimmons on the grounds of the JAV. Enjoyed great dinner and evening entertainment before turning in for the night in ondol-heated rooms. Beautiful starry night with crisp evening air.

25 Oct – Tuesday
Full day tour of Andong by car driven by the host of JAV. Visited Confucian Academy,  Hahoe Village, Mask Museum ( 1500 won) and a Hanji factory; 2nd night at JAV.

Red ivy on walls complimented red doors of the traditional school, while the gold of the gingko trees in Hahoe was impressive.

Eulalia waved gracefully on the banks of the river hugging Hahoe  village. 

Although it was cold, I opted for a naengmyeon lunch and though the taste was refreshing, I regretted not ordering a warm bowl of kimchi stew instead.


26 Oct – Wednesday
Got a ride from my JAV hostess to bus-stop bound for Juwangsan National Park; 20,000 won minbak opposite bus terminal and TIC; bus and then 45 minute walk to Jusanji ( pond); stunning views of autumnal tints of trees on the banks of the pond reflected in the waters.

Had to  hitch a ride back;  spent rest of evening gawking at the season’s goodies on sale outside shops leading up to park entrance – red bean in fish-shaped cakes, roasted chestnuts and eomuk. Grandmas were selling wild herbs, roasted rice or barley, dried persimmons at roadside stalls.

27 Oct – Thursday
Great walks at Juwangsan Park. As the morning mists lifted, the array of rock formations played with my imagination.

Unfortunately autumn isn't the season to appreciate waterfalls - while Juwangsan has more than its fair share of pokpos, the volume of water by this time had been reduced to undramatic proportions

But the beautiful autumn scenery in Juwangsan was ample compensation. Saw two ajummas enjoying a plate of acorn jelly while I was digging into my kalguksu after a long morning's walk.

28 Oct – Friday ( another full day of travelling)
Bought my bus ticket at the automated machine at the Juwangsan bus terminal for Daegu. Hopped onto a taxi to change from one bus terminal in Daegu to another on the other side of the city to get to Suncheon, thanks to a tip from a friendly bus driver.

Gapsa - Part 3

The crowd at Gapsa temple is growing bigger - a traditional military band in yellow, a modern military band in gold and red, monks in grey and brown, choir ladies in white hanbok, officials in business suits with white corsages, various Buddhist devotees and tourists in various garb. People are still busy preparing things so I wander around the quieter parts of the temple grounds.

Learn from a brochure that Gapsa offers a templestay program and one of its activities includes walking meditation. Suppose the route for this includes this narrow path that leads past a small bamboo grove.

Next, I find Jeontongchatjip, a traditional style tea-house beside a quiet stream, as promised by the Lonely Planet. It’s too early in the morning for tea. Besides, it’s still early days in this trip, I’m not splurging on a pricey cup of green tea (nokcha) or jujube tea. Am content to browse around the shop for awhile before returning to the main temple.

The sounds of the Dharma instruments ( drum, bell, wooden fish and cloud-shaped gong) signal the start of the ceremony. Didn’t expect to hear them as I thought they were only sounded before dawn and dusk. Although the size of the instruments here are impressive, the daytime atmosphere with all the crowds here detracts from its usual magic. Give me any day the Dharma drums in a remote hermitage in the evening darkness with the surrounding mountains as silent witnesses.

The call to enlightenment represented in the percussion music is followed by a short procession from the temple to a nearby shrine. Young men in military style uniforms carry solemnly out from the temple the portrait of the patron monk. When the VIPs, head monks and devotees are settled in chairs placed outside the shrine, there are speeches followed by a band and choir performance. A little too staid for me. Guess the more exciting performances are reserved for the evening but am not prepared to hang around Gapsa for so long.

If I had been better prepared and fitter, could’ve tried to do the 4-6 hour walk across the mountains and follow the trail which leads to Donghaksa. But I wasn’t, so I don’t and that climb past Gyeryeongsan ( 845m) will have to wait another time.

from my travel notes - October, 2005

Walk to Yongmun Pokpo Gapsa – Part 2

Gapsa is too crowded today as there's some celebration going on. So I look instead for Yongmun Falls which is a short walk away from Gapsa. But I’m annoyed with myself as I’ve forgotten to change to sneakers. At least I have my walking stick with me and the company of an ajumma on her way to some hermitage.

She seems to approve of my travelling alone which is unusual because most Koreans that I meet are surprised when I say “Hunja-seo” ( by myself). They’re more accustomed to going out with family or friends. But from my very limited Korean and her occasional gesturing to her crotch with snorts of disgust, I gather she hasn’t had many positive experiences with men.

My companion for the moment tells me that there’s going to be some norae (singing) at the temple later in the day. As if to confirm our bond of single sisterhood, she offers me some biscuits and candy. I try to reciprocate by giving her some of my snacks brought from home. Am glad that I’ve a supply of these in my backpack. Just before she turns onto another path leading to the hermitage, she pauses to light up a particularly stinky cigarette. I wonder if they allow smoking or she’s just relieving stress before she enters the hermitage where she’s probably opted for refuge from the world.

Missing her colourful personality though not her cigarette smoke, I continue my walk towards the pokpo. It’s a relief to be surrounded by greenery, fresh air and a silence that’s only broken by the gurgling stream. Waterfalls or pokpo aren't very active or dramatic in autumn ( dry season) so I brace myself for a vertical trickle. Yongmun, summer or autumn, is still a pretty spot for a picnic. What I didn't expect was the carving of the name on a nearby rock. Wonder how long it took for the sculptor to finish the job. On my way back from Yongmun, come across more ajummas - this time with handbags. Did they pack their kimchi or gimbap in those?

from my travel notes Saturday 22 Oct 2005

From Gongju to Gapsa - Part 1

Why am I dragging my sorry carcass out of my warm ondol room into a dark and chilly dawn? It seems a bit of waste of time to go so early to the local bus terminal beside the Sanseong Market, but I’m waiting for the No.2 bus that will take me to Gapsa at the western end of the Gyeryongsan National Park. I’m going there on the strength of these descriptions:

From the Gongju tourist pamphlet:“Situated 19 km from Gongju, the coloured autumn leaves of the Gapsa Temple offer an unmatched scenic experience, expressed in an ancient saying: ‘Magok Valley in the Spring and Gapsa Valley in the Fall.’ The leaves seen around Yongmun Waterfall display a particularly beautiful site. Gapsa is an esteemed structure, listed as one of the top ten temples of the Haweom sect of Buddhism during the Unified Shilla Era. It comprises over ten buildings including the Daewungjeon and Cheonbuljeon. The temple also houses valuable cultural artifacts such as a stupa, dangganjiju (pole supports), a woodblock print of Wolinseokbo, a book of sacred Buddhist writings, and the Gapsa bronze bell.”

And from my trusty Lonely Planet:“At the western end of the park, surrounded by beautiful scenery, stands Gapsa, one of the oldest Buddhist temples in Korea, dating back to the unified Silla period (8th –10th centuries AD). Unlike many of the temples in Korea which have been either restored or completely rebuilt from time to time, some of the buildings here are original. There is a stunning Silla bronze bell with intricate patterns that was cast in 1584.”

The bus ride is a pleasant & uncrowded 40 minute ride from Gongju and we pass golden rice fields waiting to be harvested. Alas, timing is everything as I realise when we reach Gapsa that I’m too early for the autumn leaves. They’ve not turned red yet.

Tip No 1: Check the autumn foliage schedule posted by KNTO before chasing down maples leaves.

The place is also surprisingly crowded with a lot of vehicles including a KBS van and many people walking under colourful lanterns towards the temple. A stage is set up in front of the temple, the KBS technical crew are busy sorting cables, a military band is warming up, some ladies in white hanbok are chattering away while another group of ajummas are busy preparing meals in a makeshift kitchen. Apparently the temple is commemorating the birth or death anniversary of one of its patron monks. and it doesn’t look as if a peaceful walk around the temple is possible.

Tip No 2: Expect the unexpected.
from travel notes : Sat 22 Oct 2005

Going To Gongju? Gongju - Part 1

 At the Incheon International Airport (IIA), the immigration officer’s eyebrows go up when he reads my last entry in the entry card. “Gongju?” he asks this lone female who obviously does not belong to any tour group. I enjoy his look of surprise.

Why Gongju? Well, it was the second capital of the ancient kingdom of Baekje and it’s home to quite an interesting collection of royal tombs, a fortress and a great National Museum. Secondly, it’s a convenient place to visit two important temples – Gapsa and Donghaksa. Finally, there’s a free city tour from here with a promising itinerary.

It’s not that hard to get to Gongju from IIA. Just get a ticket from the express bus counter to head first to Daejeon and at the terminal there, board a local bus for Gongju. I think I take more time looking for a place to stay because the information in my Lonely Planet is outdated and the yeoinsuk that I hope to stay in has already closed down. But eventually I find a yeogwan which is close enough to the main sights, near Sanseong Sijang, the traditional market place where affordable meals are also available.

Make a beeline for a tiny sik-dang ( restaurant) within the marketplace as soon as I figure out its signboard in Hangul spells out “Jjajangmyeon”. The proprieters are quite intrigued that I’m in Korea on my own but am quite accustomed at such bemusement and continue to enjoy my reunion with the Chinese black bean sauce noodles first enjoyed in Seoul. After dinner, pass enticing piles of boseot (mushrooms), persimmons and mandarins. On my way out of the sijang, am startled by the explosions from a rice-cake making machine (bbong-dui-gi  or pung-twi-gi) Korea’s version of the popcorn machine except the sound is much louder and dramatic).

An upmarket version of the rice cracker machine?

Source:
Photo of pavilion from KNTO website;
Gongju map from tourist brochure published by Gongju City Hall Dept of Culture & Tourism
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=578447
http://www.heritage.go.kr/culture_2007/eng/mus/nat_09.jsp?main=4&sub=1
http://www.skytrek.de/blog/archives/25-Bei-Oma-in-Gongju.html
http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/nation/2010/08/281_48878.html
http://www.baekje.org/html/en/index.html
http://id.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jajangmyeon
http://www.tradekorea.com/product-detail/P00243461/Popped_Rice_Cake_Machine__For_Snack_Corner__.html#