From Gongju to Gapsa - Part 1

Why am I dragging my sorry carcass out of my warm ondol room into a dark and chilly dawn? It seems a bit of waste of time to go so early to the local bus terminal beside the Sanseong Market, but I’m waiting for the No.2 bus that will take me to Gapsa at the western end of the Gyeryongsan National Park. I’m going there on the strength of these descriptions:

From the Gongju tourist pamphlet:“Situated 19 km from Gongju, the coloured autumn leaves of the Gapsa Temple offer an unmatched scenic experience, expressed in an ancient saying: ‘Magok Valley in the Spring and Gapsa Valley in the Fall.’ The leaves seen around Yongmun Waterfall display a particularly beautiful site. Gapsa is an esteemed structure, listed as one of the top ten temples of the Haweom sect of Buddhism during the Unified Shilla Era. It comprises over ten buildings including the Daewungjeon and Cheonbuljeon. The temple also houses valuable cultural artifacts such as a stupa, dangganjiju (pole supports), a woodblock print of Wolinseokbo, a book of sacred Buddhist writings, and the Gapsa bronze bell.”

And from my trusty Lonely Planet:“At the western end of the park, surrounded by beautiful scenery, stands Gapsa, one of the oldest Buddhist temples in Korea, dating back to the unified Silla period (8th –10th centuries AD). Unlike many of the temples in Korea which have been either restored or completely rebuilt from time to time, some of the buildings here are original. There is a stunning Silla bronze bell with intricate patterns that was cast in 1584.”

The bus ride is a pleasant & uncrowded 40 minute ride from Gongju and we pass golden rice fields waiting to be harvested. Alas, timing is everything as I realise when we reach Gapsa that I’m too early for the autumn leaves. They’ve not turned red yet.

Tip No 1: Check the autumn foliage schedule posted by KNTO before chasing down maples leaves.

The place is also surprisingly crowded with a lot of vehicles including a KBS van and many people walking under colourful lanterns towards the temple. A stage is set up in front of the temple, the KBS technical crew are busy sorting cables, a military band is warming up, some ladies in white hanbok are chattering away while another group of ajummas are busy preparing meals in a makeshift kitchen. Apparently the temple is commemorating the birth or death anniversary of one of its patron monks. and it doesn’t look as if a peaceful walk around the temple is possible.

Tip No 2: Expect the unexpected.
from travel notes : Sat 22 Oct 2005