Showing posts with label Daraengi. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Daraengi. Show all posts

Wednesday, August 5, 2009

What's Your K.Q. (Korea Quotient) ???

FUN QUIZ No 1 : HOW WELL DO YOU KNOW SOUTH KOREA?
Update: I've decided to make this first quiz short- only 5 pictures to identify.

Can you guess where these photos were taken? Clues are given for each.

Update: You may find the answers if you visit other postings on this blog.

There will be FIVE photos posted for this first quiz. ( see future posts to this blog)

No 1 Clue: Can a fake grave from a TV drama become a tourist attraction?

No 2 Clue: The tiny "temple" is gone but this pond is beautiful in any season.

No 3 Clue: Holy shit! You have to go far south to find this. ( pardon the language)

No 4 Clue: Photo of its partner is in another post on this blog

No 5 Clue : Are the children too much for T-Rex? Or is he running from the hen - dragon?
HAPPY GUESSING!

Monday, August 3, 2009

Namhae - Part 5 Boriam - Hermitage with a view



Boriam Temple - Namhae-do ; Thanks to ali on Vimeo.

Unfortunately, Daraengi in Namhae doesn’t get good views of either sunrise or sunset. For that, one would have to take the bus to Boriam, a tiny hermitage situated right at the top of Geumsan.



Below: Boriam's perch on Geumsan seems precarious


Above: The Goddess of Mercy has a great view of the southern sea

Compared to other mountains in Korea, it’s not high ( 681 metres above sea level) but it promises spectacular views of surrounding fantastically shaped rocks that would give your imagination a good workout. Or if they don't catch your fancy, you can enjoy panaoramic views of the Hallyeo Haesang National Park and look down on Sangju beach as well as a fair part of the Namhae coastline. Provided, of course, you are fortunate enough to get good weather. Which I wasn’t.

Sangju beach

Perhaps I should have made a special prayer in this place of worship dedicated to the Gwanseeumbosal or the Goddess of Mercy ( Kuan Yin as she is known to the Chinese). I should have asked her selfishly for good weather because for most of the time that I was up there, it was wet, misty, moisty and I could hardly see a thing and even had to inch my way carefully on the slippery stone steps.

But really, I shouldn’t be complaining. I was lucky enough to catch the free shuttle bus headed for the hermitage on its way back from the daily marketing errands. Along the way, it stopped by Bokgog reservoir as well to pick up more passengers. I was also grateful to the temple administration for allowing to stay there overnight, provided of course, that I followed the temple routines and paid 10,000 won ( in 2007 ) for meals and a place to sleep ( the dining quarters were converted easily into one big common space for mattresses.)

After spending a full day and night, it seemed as if I had made my way unwittingly to one of the most important hermitages in Korea, judging from the steady stream of visitors who would pay their respects to the female deity. The chanting and prayer sessions were always crowded affairs; for such a small temple, it seemed to have a fair number of monks and devotees who came specially to pray in this hermitage which was established by the famous Buddhist monk, Won-hyo in 683 A.D.

An extract from a KBS World Radio webpage explains the significance of this small temple:

Boriam Temple near the summit of Geumsan Mountain is one of the three most famous temples for prayer, the others of which are Hongryeonam Temple at Naksansa Temple in Yangyang and Bomunsa Temple in Ganhwado Island. These three temples are the three holy places for Gwanseeumbosal in Korea. In 683 (the 3rd year of the reign of King Sinmun of the Silla Dynasty), the great monk Wonhyodaesa built a temple here and met Gwanseeumbosal while he was praying. He named the mountain "Bogwangsan" and the temple "Bogwangsa." During the Yi Dynasty the imperial family made this temple the royal temple and changed the name of the mountain to Geumsan (silk mountain), and the name of the temple was changed to Boriam.


A poem " Namhae Mount Geum" by Lee Seong-bok is inscribed on a post just as you enter the temple:

A woman is buried in rocks ...
And I’m standing alone on Mount Geum  in Namhae under the blue sky.
I sink alone into the blue sea of Mount Geum in Namhae.

Boriam seems to be the ideal place to pray for miracles or to bury one's griefs.

sources:
http://vimeo.com/745647
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=262191
http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2898478
http://rki.kbs.co.kr/english/culturenlife/culturenlife_tour_detail.htm?No=1336

Namhae - Part 4 Rocks with Gender in Daraengi

The village of Daraengi itself can easily be explored in an hour or less, depending on your preferences. Of course, one could dawdle with a camera to take shots from different angles its most notable attraction – Amsubawi, the Male and Female Rocks which, according to legend, kept the nets heavy with fish and harvests bountiful as long as annual rites were observed.


Here's an extract from the KBS World Radio website  which details the local legend:

'Amsubawi (Jaungam: female and male rocks) is said to attract many women, who come to these rocks secretly at night to pray for fertility, spawning the following legend:
An old man appeared in a dream to the sheriff of this district in 1751 (27th year of the reign of King Yeongjo during the Joseon Kingdom) and said, “I have been buried at Gacheon Village and I am very much troubled by the frequent passage of cows and horses. If you erect my body, you will surely have fortunate affairs,” and disappeared. The next day the sheriff went with his staff to the place he saw in his dream, dug up the ground and found the Amsubawi. He left the Ambawi lying upon the ground and erected the Subawi, just as they are today.'


Below: The Female Rock - Does she look like she's in heavy labour?

Above: You need good shoes and strong legs to get around Daraengi!

The 5.8 meter high Subawi  (phallic-like rock)  was obvious enough but one needed a little bit more imagination to see the outlines of the 3.9 meter high Ambawi ( female rock)  as a woman in labour. I was more inclined to make my way past the terraced rice fields to get as close as I dared to the waves crashing on the dark rocks and stare at the mesmerizing swirling waters.

Eun-hee’s mom, the ajumma who runs the minbak I opted for, had suggested that I walk up to Mt. Seolheulsan ( 481 m ) but I had no clue as to how difficult the course would be and so I chickened out. Much to my regret as later when I looked more closely at the map in the local tourist brochure, it didn’t seem too heavy-going a course ( about 20 minutes to reach the summit). Missed out also on the chance to spot the freshwater crab "Chamgye" ( Eriocheir sinensis) which lives in the unpolluted valley streams of Seolheulsan.

Here's an interesting snippet from the Global Invasive Species Database:

Eriocheir sinensis (the Chinese mitten crab) is a migrating crab which has invaded Europe and North America from its native region of Asia. During its mass migrations it contributes to the temporary local extinction of native invertebrates. It modifies habitats by causing erosion due to its intensive burrowing activity and costs fisheries and aquaculture several hundreds of thousands of dollars per year by consuming bait and trapped fish as well as by damaging gear.




Eriocheir sinensis a.k.a. Chinese freshwater edible crab, Chinese mitten crab, Chinese river crab


sources:

Namhae - Part 3 Where to stay in Daraengi

My main destination in Namhae was Gacheon-ri or Daraengi village tucked away in one corner of the southern coastline of Namhae Island. The houses here hug the steep coastline and surprisingly for a village by the sea, there are no fishing boats to behold - only paddy and garlic fields carved into the sides of the foothills.

The paddy terraces of Daraengi recall Balinese landscapes

It was a little after noon when the local bus from the Namhae Bus Terminal pulled over at its last stop of its picturesque journey. There was no reply at the minbak nearest to the bus stop; presumably the ajumma was out tending crops.

It's a steep climb to your neighbour's home in Daraengi

There is a large signboard by the main road which highlights the different minbaks with contact numbers available but I found on my own the ideal place run by a very friendly ajumma who preferred to be known as Eun-hee’s mother.

Just a tiny village by the sea but what a pretty location!

By ideal, I mean not too far from the bus stop as it was quite a breathless task lugging a heavy backpack up and down the uneven and very steep lanes. For 20,000 won, I had my own ondol room and Eun-hee’s mom was prepared to serve up dinner also for another 5000 won. ( 2007 prices)

Small wonder the people here are so fit - their daily workout from house to field

That night, I was delighted to have a low table laden with rice, fried fish and different side dishes brought to my room so that I could feast in traditional Korean fashion, cross-legged on the delicious warmth of the heated floor. It may have been the fresh air of the island, or the especially tasty fresh fish caught somewhere in the surrounding waters but that night, I did something I don't usually do: I ate that fish clean to the bone.

 Eun Hee's mom serves a very satisfying dinner!

Most of the houses here face the sea so brace yourself for some strong sea breezes. These proved to be handy as I had a fair bit of laundry to dry. Eun-hee's mom observed my struggles and very expertly helped me hang my wet clothes on the lines just outside my room. They blocked the great views of the sea for a while but it was fun to sit on the verandah and "chat" in my limited Korean with the ajumma who ran the minbak.


                                      Watch your step - sometimes getting close to Nature can be perilous!

sources:

Sunday, August 2, 2009

Namhae - Part 1 Why Visit Namhae?





My visit to Namhae in spring of 2007 all started with the movie “Barefoot Ki-bong”. The beauty of Daraengi village shown in the film was as charming as the true story of the simple-minded but big-hearted hero’s determination to complete a marathon. I had the urge to see for myself this village perched on the steep Namhae coastline which formed the dramatic backdrop to Ki-bong’s daily runs.


Many tourists are already familiar with Jeju but Namhae has enough charms of its own to give Jeju a run for its money. Namhae has almost everything that lovers of landscape could wish for – rugged coastlines, dramatic mountains, narrow valleys opening up to colourful plains and quaint villages that either hug the rocky shorelines or the foothills.



It is no wonder that this island has become the site for the American and German Villages for Koreans who have lived abroad for years. It seems the ideal place to retire with its clean air, relaxed pace of life and open spaces.
Namhae is  beginning to prove a strong rival to Jeju in terms of shooting locations for TV dramas. More recently,  the village of Daraengi was featured in the opening episode for "Cinderella's Step-sister" with Moon Geun-yong in the lead role. Those familiar with the K drama, Couple Or Trouble, starring Oh Ji-ho and Han Ye-seul, may also want to check out some of the places on the island that provided scenic backdrops to the story.


Even if you've never seen the movie or the drama series, Namhae is worth the time and effort. Don't be surprised to find yourself extending your stay.

sources:
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=262191
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=1051940
http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/CU/CU_EN_8_5_1_22.jsp
http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/CU/CU_EN_8_5_1_66.jsp