Gochangeupseong Fortress: In the Footsteps of KBS's Hwang Jin-yi, Part 2

 The scene in which Ha Ji-won’s Hwangjinyi practises her dance before her first love, the impressionable and impetuous aristocrat ( played by Jang Geun-seuk) was shot at Gochang- eupseong.



See the last few minutes of this Youtube video from the KBS drama. 
Now I’ve been to other fortresses before in South Korea such as Nagan-eupseong, the fortress at Gongju and Hwaseong in Suwon, so what would make Historic Site No. 145 in Gochang-gun in North Jeolla Province (Jeollabuk-do) so special and worth visiting?

 Various sources suggest visitors take note of its distinctive round walls outside the fortress gates erected during the early Joseon Dynasty, a moat to discourage invaders and the absence of private dwellings ( unlike Naganeupseong, for instance) with only government buildings erected within its walls.

But I think what gives Gochang-eupseong its unique charm is its story of WOMEN POWER.

Professor Hur Kyoung-jin recounts a legend in the Spring 2005 edition of Koreana:
“At one time, two ramparts had to be built in the region at the same time, so men built one section at Seosan while women built another at Gochang. As an incentive, it had been decided that whichever town completed its walls first would be awarded a local magistracy…. However, since the men underrated the women, they would wile away the time in drink and merriment. In contrast, the women worked ceaselessly, hauling the stones and building the walls, without taking breaks. In the end, their steady efforts enabled the Gochang walls to be completed first. "

Dapseong Nori (walk around fortress) is held during the Gochang Moyang Fortress Festival 

( before or after September 9th in lunar calendar)

"To commemorate this legendary event, every year the women of Gochang walk all along the walls as part of a ‘wall-stamping’ festival. It is believed that anyone who walks the full length of the walls will be assured of good health and a long life. The effects are said to be especially beneficial if carried out during a leap year, when the gates to the afterworld would be open.”

A full circuit of these walls once is supposed to "prevent disease".

 Go round TWICE to enjoy a lifetime of good health AND

if you've the stamina to repeat the promenade for the THIRD time,

you've secured your ticket to heaven.

So if I manage to make my way to Gochang on the ninth day of the ninth lunar month, I'd need to bear in mind a few things:

1. Find out from the KTO when AND WHERE exactly this picturesque ceremony takes place. One blogger was too late for the event and had to be content with the sideshows.  Must remember to ask for the specific gate where this annual parade begins and ends.

2. I must NOT expect dramatic sights of ladies in hanbok gracefully and stoically bearing big rocks above their heads. Apparently, custom only requires symbolic gestures and the modern-day ajumma need only carry a stone as big as her dainty fist.

3. It's a 10-min walk from Gochang Bus Terminal to get to  Gochangeupseong.

sources:
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=658574
http://culture.gochang.go.kr/site_english/
http://culture.gochang.go.kr/site_english/festival/07-01.htm
http://jikimi.cha.go.kr/english/
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cvZxuVlq45Y
http://koreana.kf.or.kr/popup.asp?flag=view&article_id=5789&sword=gochangeupseong&volumn=19&no=1&lang=English

Around Korea By Bus In Two Weeks, Part 1

Here's how I spent two weeks in Korea chasing the fall foliage way back in 2005. Hopefully this will be useful to  independent travellers when they plan their own trips to catch the autumn leaves this year. By no means am I suggesting that the leaves will be in the same condition around those dates - you need to check the latest fall foliage schedule for that!

For more information on buses, click here.

21 Oct - Friday
Bought and boarded from outside the Incheon International Airport, a direct bus to Daejeon. Be careful not to buy the more expensive deluxe bus as the ordinary bus is sufficiently comfortable. BTW, Daejeon is quite attractive with its gingko-tree-lined avenues and promising sculptures in the public parks. Nice to see the leaves of the gingko trees have turned yellow already.

Had a smooth changeover at the bus terminal at Daejeon and got on another bus bound for Gongju.
Found a yeogwan  or inn near the marketplace; most stalls were closed already but still some were still selling enticing piles of recently harvested mushrooms, persimmons and mandarin oranges.  Eateries within the market are usually open till the evening so I could enjoy my first meal of jjajangmyeon in a sikdang within the market.


22 Oct – Saturday
Caught  bus No 2 to Gapsa from the Gongju bus terminal near the marketplace. Too early for autumn foliage here but the rice fields are already golden and ready for harvesting.

Witnessed part of the celebrations for one of Gapsa’s patron monks were underway.

Short walk to waterfall.

Returned to Gongju to ask about Sunday city tour at the Tourist Information Centre. Staff there kindly let me join tour though I hadn’t made a booking. Stumbled upon the city mascot, i.e. a sculpture of bear beyond the TIC.

23 Oct – Sunday
Joined the free Gongju City Tour. It was conducted in Korean only though the tour guide was able to give me very brief commentaries in English.

Morning stops  of this tour included the Songsan-ri Tombs and the Gongju National Museum; admission to the latter was at an incredible deal of 400 won per person. Great weather - blue skies, sunny but cool.  In the afternoon, the bus crossed river towards Gyeryeongsan Pottery Village – Natural History Museum was the last stop.

Remember: advance bookings are strongly recommended. Note - on other days, the tour may cover places like the Pansori Centre and the Folk Museum. Unfortunately the guard changing ceremony at the fortress is not conducted in late autumn and winter.


24 Oct – Monday
Did a morning exploration of Gong-sanseong ( Fortress) near TIC before I boarded the bus for Daejeon Bus Terminal and changed to a bus for Andong. Met the head and host of Jirye Art Village in Andong.  He took all his guests to view  the  house of Yi clan in Andong and also its brick pagoda  before we were driven to JAV.

Passed orchards full of trees laden with apples. Trees with quinces and persimmons on the grounds of the JAV. Enjoyed great dinner and evening entertainment before turning in for the night in ondol-heated rooms. Beautiful starry night with crisp evening air.

25 Oct – Tuesday
Full day tour of Andong by car driven by the host of JAV. Visited Confucian Academy,  Hahoe Village, Mask Museum ( 1500 won) and a Hanji factory; 2nd night at JAV.

Red ivy on walls complimented red doors of the traditional school, while the gold of the gingko trees in Hahoe was impressive.

Eulalia waved gracefully on the banks of the river hugging Hahoe  village. 

Although it was cold, I opted for a naengmyeon lunch and though the taste was refreshing, I regretted not ordering a warm bowl of kimchi stew instead.


26 Oct – Wednesday
Got a ride from my JAV hostess to bus-stop bound for Juwangsan National Park; 20,000 won minbak opposite bus terminal and TIC; bus and then 45 minute walk to Jusanji ( pond); stunning views of autumnal tints of trees on the banks of the pond reflected in the waters.

Had to  hitch a ride back;  spent rest of evening gawking at the season’s goodies on sale outside shops leading up to park entrance – red bean in fish-shaped cakes, roasted chestnuts and eomuk. Grandmas were selling wild herbs, roasted rice or barley, dried persimmons at roadside stalls.

27 Oct – Thursday
Great walks at Juwangsan Park. As the morning mists lifted, the array of rock formations played with my imagination.

Unfortunately autumn isn't the season to appreciate waterfalls - while Juwangsan has more than its fair share of pokpos, the volume of water by this time had been reduced to undramatic proportions

But the beautiful autumn scenery in Juwangsan was ample compensation. Saw two ajummas enjoying a plate of acorn jelly while I was digging into my kalguksu after a long morning's walk.

28 Oct – Friday ( another full day of travelling)
Bought my bus ticket at the automated machine at the Juwangsan bus terminal for Daegu. Hopped onto a taxi to change from one bus terminal in Daegu to another on the other side of the city to get to Suncheon, thanks to a tip from a friendly bus driver.

Letter for some ajummas in Gongju

To the ajummas that I met in Gongju,

First, a big Gamsa-hamnida to Ms Kim Gyeong Ae, tour guide for the Gongju City Tour

for letting me join the tour bus even though 1. I didn't have any reservations and 2. the bus was pretty full already;
NEXT, for breaking the ice by introducing me to the Korean tourists on board the bus - thanks to you, I was able to chat with the children on the tour;
THIRDLY, for taking me under your wing and showing me how a non-Korean speaking tourist could appreciate the attractions at the Songsan-ri tombs and the Gyeryeongsan Natural History Museum;

AND FINALLY, for sharing with me a bit of your life ( remember how we tried to recall the first few lines of Eliot's Wasteland and discussed the meaning of "April is the cruelest month"?)

Thank you also to Ms. Oh Myung Ja at the Tourist Information Centre for your kind offer of coffee on a cold autumn morning while I was waiting for the city tour bus; PLUS for giving me, not only some colourful brochures about Gongju but also a lovely CD on the place.

To the parents of Clara, Olivia, Angela & Ken - thank you so much for introducing me to kalguksu - the lunch treat was chong-mal mashi-isseoyo!

AND for showing me how Korean parents are willing to go all out for their children's education ( you forked out 10,000 won so that your little ones could play with clay and make coiled pots at the Ceramic Village)

And to my kind-hearted ajumma at the yeogwan, thanks for the lovely sweet potato - it was the perfect way to ending a great day in Gongju!

Gamsa-hamnida!

An ajumma who visited Gongju

Source of photo of Gongju Fortress: http://tour.chungnam.net/ctt/ptal/comu/02/comu.02.001.read.jsp?aSeq=23066

Walk to Yongmun Pokpo Gapsa – Part 2

Gapsa is too crowded today as there's some celebration going on. So I look instead for Yongmun Falls which is a short walk away from Gapsa. But I’m annoyed with myself as I’ve forgotten to change to sneakers. At least I have my walking stick with me and the company of an ajumma on her way to some hermitage.

She seems to approve of my travelling alone which is unusual because most Koreans that I meet are surprised when I say “Hunja-seo” ( by myself). They’re more accustomed to going out with family or friends. But from my very limited Korean and her occasional gesturing to her crotch with snorts of disgust, I gather she hasn’t had many positive experiences with men.

My companion for the moment tells me that there’s going to be some norae (singing) at the temple later in the day. As if to confirm our bond of single sisterhood, she offers me some biscuits and candy. I try to reciprocate by giving her some of my snacks brought from home. Am glad that I’ve a supply of these in my backpack. Just before she turns onto another path leading to the hermitage, she pauses to light up a particularly stinky cigarette. I wonder if they allow smoking or she’s just relieving stress before she enters the hermitage where she’s probably opted for refuge from the world.

Missing her colourful personality though not her cigarette smoke, I continue my walk towards the pokpo. It’s a relief to be surrounded by greenery, fresh air and a silence that’s only broken by the gurgling stream. Waterfalls or pokpo aren't very active or dramatic in autumn ( dry season) so I brace myself for a vertical trickle. Yongmun, summer or autumn, is still a pretty spot for a picnic. What I didn't expect was the carving of the name on a nearby rock. Wonder how long it took for the sculptor to finish the job. On my way back from Yongmun, come across more ajummas - this time with handbags. Did they pack their kimchi or gimbap in those?

from my travel notes Saturday 22 Oct 2005

From Gongju to Gapsa - Part 1

Why am I dragging my sorry carcass out of my warm ondol room into a dark and chilly dawn? It seems a bit of waste of time to go so early to the local bus terminal beside the Sanseong Market, but I’m waiting for the No.2 bus that will take me to Gapsa at the western end of the Gyeryongsan National Park. I’m going there on the strength of these descriptions:

From the Gongju tourist pamphlet:“Situated 19 km from Gongju, the coloured autumn leaves of the Gapsa Temple offer an unmatched scenic experience, expressed in an ancient saying: ‘Magok Valley in the Spring and Gapsa Valley in the Fall.’ The leaves seen around Yongmun Waterfall display a particularly beautiful site. Gapsa is an esteemed structure, listed as one of the top ten temples of the Haweom sect of Buddhism during the Unified Shilla Era. It comprises over ten buildings including the Daewungjeon and Cheonbuljeon. The temple also houses valuable cultural artifacts such as a stupa, dangganjiju (pole supports), a woodblock print of Wolinseokbo, a book of sacred Buddhist writings, and the Gapsa bronze bell.”

And from my trusty Lonely Planet:“At the western end of the park, surrounded by beautiful scenery, stands Gapsa, one of the oldest Buddhist temples in Korea, dating back to the unified Silla period (8th –10th centuries AD). Unlike many of the temples in Korea which have been either restored or completely rebuilt from time to time, some of the buildings here are original. There is a stunning Silla bronze bell with intricate patterns that was cast in 1584.”

The bus ride is a pleasant & uncrowded 40 minute ride from Gongju and we pass golden rice fields waiting to be harvested. Alas, timing is everything as I realise when we reach Gapsa that I’m too early for the autumn leaves. They’ve not turned red yet.

Tip No 1: Check the autumn foliage schedule posted by KNTO before chasing down maples leaves.

The place is also surprisingly crowded with a lot of vehicles including a KBS van and many people walking under colourful lanterns towards the temple. A stage is set up in front of the temple, the KBS technical crew are busy sorting cables, a military band is warming up, some ladies in white hanbok are chattering away while another group of ajummas are busy preparing meals in a makeshift kitchen. Apparently the temple is commemorating the birth or death anniversary of one of its patron monks. and it doesn’t look as if a peaceful walk around the temple is possible.

Tip No 2: Expect the unexpected.
from travel notes : Sat 22 Oct 2005

Exploring a Fortress Before Dawn - Gongju– Part 6

For some perverse reason I find myself waking up before dawn and making my way to the Gongsan-seong. Don’t fancy bumping into strange creatures or spooks in the darkness so am relieved to see a jogger pass by and hear a group of people playing badminton. O-ho. So am not the earliest bird in town. The good thing about coming out so early is that the place isn’t crowded with tourist groups and I get to see what the fortress is like in a more intriguing atmosphere.

I follow the clear footpaths and signposts to the Yougeun-sa (temple) near the riverside only to be greeted by not-so-friendly barks of the resident dog. It’s more peaceful at the Manharu pavilion which has great views of the Geumgang. Just next to it is Yeon-ji (Pond). Supposed to be a lotus lake but more likely to be a communal watering-hole as it’s too small and deep, with steep stone steps around the perimeter leading down to the water’s edge. I try to imagine what it was like for ajummas of the Baekje times to gather here to collect water and the latest gossip but am also careful not to trip and fall into the pond. The low railings here don’t offer much protection for either the pond or the curious visitor.

About 2 hours is recommended for a leisurely stroll around the grounds of Gongsan-seong. Other features of the fortress include Gongbukru, “a classic example of gate architecture of the Joseon Dynasty” and Imryugak, “used as a banquet hall for the king’s subjects”. ( Quotes from tourist pamphlet). I get back to the main entrance at Geumseoru and climb to the top of the watch-tower in time to see the sun emerging like a rich egg yolk from the dark woods in the distance.

Source of pics

1: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Korea-Gongju-Gongsanseong-02.jpg

2. http://www.ocp.go.kr:9000/ne_dasencgi/image_view.cgi?name=Fortress%20Wall%20of%20Gongsanseong%20Fortress&f_dir=history_site&f_name=c0012000034004.jpg

3. http://www.ocp.go.kr:9000/ne_dasencgi/image_view.cgi?name=&f_dir=history_site&f_name=c0012000034014.jpg

On Kalgksu & Catnapping Toddler Gongju – Part 5

A family on the tour bus invite me to join them for lunch and gamsa-he-yo to them for my first Kalguksu i.e. hand-made egg noodles cooked in a light broth with clams, mushrooms and slices of potato & cucumber. It arrives in a large wok heated on a small gas stove at the dining table. I’m amused to see a large & unpretentious pair of scissors on stand-by, in case diners struggle with long strands of noodles. Those who tire of spicy food will find kalguksu a soothing alternative. This nutritious and filling dish can easily qualify as comfort food.

Originally, I wanted to check out the Lonely Planet’s recommendation to sample Gomanaru’s wide variety of tasty food. ( Check out this enterprising provincial restaurant’s website at www.gomanaru. co.kr/food/menu/ ) The guidebook, however, forgot to mention that reservations are necessary or at least highly recommended. The restaurant was full and so I had to look elsewhere. Fortunately the parents of some of the children on the tour bus come to my rescue with their invitation to join them for the kalguksu lunch.

Time and again, I’m floored by such examples of hospitality from the Koreans. Different people on the tour bus offer me snacks, candy and fruit throughout the day and I’m glad that I brought from home my own supply of junk food to return the compliment. One toddler quickly sizes up the situation and after securing a fair share of sweets, is happy to curl up on me for a catnap on the bus. Don’t know if he’s too tired to care that he’s sleeping on a stranger but I’d like to think that he’s comfortable enough with me not to see as one.

Source of pic: http://eng.gg.go.kr/tag/Haemul%20Kalguksu

Where Digging for Drains Can Lead To A King's Tomb, Gongju Part 4

First stop on the city bus day tour of Gongju’s past - the Songsan-ri Tombs. While digging for some drains some years back, construction workers found by chance King Muryeong’s tomb. This amazing find led to the unearthing of other tumuli: smooth-shaped baby hillocks where the royalty of the ancient kingdom of Baekje are buried. When I first saw tumuli in Gyeongju, my irreverant thought was how it would feel to toboggan down the short snowy slopes in winter.

Thanks to my tour guide and the explanatory book, I learn more about tumulis in one hour than I ever did before. Slowly I begin to appreciate the contrasting styles of different tombs. Some entrances are narrow while others are more straight-forward.

Some bricks and tiles are arranged following some cosmological beliefs ( 10- 8- 6- 4-2-1 layers in one tomb, for example). The types of building materials reflect how rich and culturally advanced the period was.

Next, the admission charge to the Gongju National Museum is generously priced at an unbelievable 400 won ( even half a cup of coffee from a vending machine would set you back 500 won)! Here , the museum houses the real deals – the copies of the gold crown ornaments seen earlier at the Songsan-ri Tombs are based on the originals which are displayed proudly here under glass and maximum security.

Photo: Gold ornament for royal head

Click here for the 2010 Great Baekje World Festival 

sources:
https://www.gongju.go.kr/html/en/culture/culture_01_02.html
http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=268122
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264322

Gongju City Tour, Gongju Part 3

Console myself that if I’m too late to enjoy its festivals, at least I can still join the City Tour which is a bit of a misnomer because:
1) Gongju is not a city; instead it’s a provincial town, and
2) the tour goes out to neighbouring attractions also.

This free 7-hour tour, operating between April and October on Sundays, is the best way to explore the town and its environs while interacting with Koreans

Photo: Anyone lose a bike at the Ceramic Art Village?

Indeed, I should count my lucky stars as I’m allowed to board this already crowded bus without any prior reservation. The kind ladies at the Tourism Information Booth take pity on me and I guess it helps that I’m at the pickup point way before the departure time of 10 am. Soon the coach is packed with Korean families and one sole foreigner, looking forward to an interesting day.
The tour guide announces to everyone through the bus PA that I speak English and during the day, I’m surrounded by children who want to practise their conversational skills. It’s great to see the young ones so enthusiastic and not as shy as their parents who beam with pride whenever they overhear their offspring string sentences in English to try them out on me.

Almost all the children have English names and when I ask them what they want to be in the future, the replies from Olivia, Clara, Angela and Ken are: a violinist, a fashion designer, an actor, an IT programmer ( but not necessarily in that order!)

One toddler, the brother of one of the children, has no Western name as he’s not enrolled in a hagwon for English as yet. Photo: Children following ceramic master's instructions closelyAm a little disappointed to learn that my tour route for the day doesn’t include the Folk Play Museum, the Park Dong-jin Pansori Instruction Centre, the Imrip Art Museum nor the Chungnam Forests Museum. However, we do visit the Gyeryeongsan Ceramic Art Village which produces Buncheong porcelain, the Natural History Museum, the Gongju National Museum and the Tomb of Muryeong-wang, the 25th ruler of the Baekje kingdom. More on each later.

Photo: At the Gyeryeongsan Natural History Museum














sources:
http://sjnmuseum.go.kr/english/tourguide/tourguide_01.html
http://gongju.museum.go.kr/html/en/media/media_04.jsp#

Going To Gongju? Gongju - Part 1

 At the Incheon International Airport (IIA), the immigration officer’s eyebrows go up when he reads my last entry in the entry card. “Gongju?” he asks this lone female who obviously does not belong to any tour group. I enjoy his look of surprise.

Why Gongju? Well, it was the second capital of the ancient kingdom of Baekje and it’s home to quite an interesting collection of royal tombs, a fortress and a great National Museum. Secondly, it’s a convenient place to visit two important temples – Gapsa and Donghaksa. Finally, there’s a free city tour from here with a promising itinerary.

It’s not that hard to get to Gongju from IIA. Just get a ticket from the express bus counter to head first to Daejeon and at the terminal there, board a local bus for Gongju. I think I take more time looking for a place to stay because the information in my Lonely Planet is outdated and the yeoinsuk that I hope to stay in has already closed down. But eventually I find a yeogwan which is close enough to the main sights, near Sanseong Sijang, the traditional market place where affordable meals are also available.

Make a beeline for a tiny sik-dang ( restaurant) within the marketplace as soon as I figure out its signboard in Hangul spells out “Jjajangmyeon”. The proprieters are quite intrigued that I’m in Korea on my own but am quite accustomed at such bemusement and continue to enjoy my reunion with the Chinese black bean sauce noodles first enjoyed in Seoul. After dinner, pass enticing piles of boseot (mushrooms), persimmons and mandarins. On my way out of the sijang, am startled by the explosions from a rice-cake making machine (bbong-dui-gi  or pung-twi-gi) Korea’s version of the popcorn machine except the sound is much louder and dramatic).

An upmarket version of the rice cracker machine?

Source:
Photo of pavilion from KNTO website;
Gongju map from tourist brochure published by Gongju City Hall Dept of Culture & Tourism
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=578447
http://www.heritage.go.kr/culture_2007/eng/mus/nat_09.jsp?main=4&sub=1
http://www.skytrek.de/blog/archives/25-Bei-Oma-in-Gongju.html
http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/nation/2010/08/281_48878.html
http://www.baekje.org/html/en/index.html
http://id.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jajangmyeon
http://www.tradekorea.com/product-detail/P00243461/Popped_Rice_Cake_Machine__For_Snack_Corner__.html#