What I've Been Missing This Summer

Here's a selection of photo stories from the JoongAng Daily from the past two months. This posting is  a reminder to myself of what I've missed while I was unable to blog this summer.

Ajumma's version of Nanta

1.Women from Wanju, North Jeolla, present a performance based on the old practice of ironing out wrinkled clothes by pounding with wooden clubs. The performance was held at the 2011 Seongbuk District’s Day of Social Enterprises at the Seongbuk District. [JoongAng Ilbo]

Magical Mystery Tour by Moonlight

2. Greeters welcome visitors to the Moonlight Tour at Changdeok Palace, hosted by the Korea Cultural Heritage Foundation. The event included an evening tour of the palace and performances of traditional Korean music and dance. The tour will resume in September. [NEWSIS]

Were the gods listening when Gangnam was flooded?

3.The National Folk Museum holds a traditional ritual to pray for clear skies, peace and the well-being of the nation. During the folk ceremony, called Gicheongje, museum-goers participated in prayers to the ancient mountain and river gods in the east, west, south and north to stop the deluge by offering drinks and food. By Kim Sang-seon

Would budget travellers be turned away from these cafeterias?

4. Dozens of Seoul citizens eat lunch yesterday at a police station cafeteria. With high inflation, many have resorted to eating in places like police stations and district offices, which offer inexpensive meals. [YONHAP]

Welcome Home, Uigwe, Even Though The French Say It's Just a Loan

5. Hyojang Seja Chaekrye Dogam Uigwe, above, an illustrated guide to the inauguration of the crown prince, will be displayed at the National Museum of Korea from July 19 to Sept. 18 in a special exhibition commemorating the return of the documents from France. It is one of 297 volumes of the Oegyujanggak Uigwe, which were returned to Korea from France in four difference batches from April to May this year. [YONHAP]

Hurray for the Dulle - How long will it take to walk around Bukhansan?

6. Climbers check a section of the Dulle walkway course that circles the entire circumference of Mount Bukhan, which was opened to the public yesterday after nine months of construction. [YONHAP]

How many different ways can you cook tuna?

7. Chefs yesterday lift a giant bluefin tuna to divide into pieces at a tuna restaurant in Jonggak, central Seoul. The tuna, which weighed 350 kilograms (772 pounds) and measured 270 centimeters (8 feet 10 inches) long, was caught off the shores of Jeju Island. [YONHAP]


 

Did Mr Gere do the 300 bows?

 8. U.S. actor Richard Gere signs a guestbook at Jogye Temple in central Seoul  as monk Sung Jin  watches. Gere, was in Korea for six days to promote his photo exhibition “Pilgrim,” which features photographs of Tibet, and to experience Korean Buddhism. “Pilgrim" runs until July 24. Gere will also visit Tongdo Temple in Yangsan, South Gyeongsang, and Donghwa Temple in Daegu. [AP/YONHAP]

Remind me to look out for a paddy field next time I visit Changdeokgung.

9. Tourists join officials of the Rural Development Administration and the Cultural Heritage Administration to plant rice in a paddy at Changdeok Palace in Seoul. Joseon Dynasty kings used to show their support of agriculture by planting rice themselves. By Kim Sang-seon

Sorry, smokers but my lungs and nostrils are celebrating this bit of news.

10. Seoul Metropolitan Government officials patrol Cheonggye Plaza in central Seoul as a new ordinance designating the plaza as a nonsmoking zone took effect. Smokers caught breaking the rule will be fined 100,000 won ($93.06). By Kim Do-hoon

Sources:

1. http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2938374

2. http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2937755

3. http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2939776

4. http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2939775

5. http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2938962

6. http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2938308

7. http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2938186

8. http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2937857

9. http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2936985

10. http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2937041

What's On The Itinerary For G20 Guests?

Given the very short stay that the privileged G20 guests will have in Seoul, it's interesting to note the places on their itinerary. What has Seoul chosen to showcase to its international guests? Granted security considerations may have meant that the obvious tourist attractions may have been ruled out but there were also some ;ess obvious choices which I didn't even know existed.

1. Visitors to the National Museum of Korea in Yongsan, central Seoul, don't be surprised that museum officials look particularly tense this week and the next as the venue will be used to hold the welcome reception for the G20 participants next Thursday. I managed to squeeze a brief half hour to visit this place in my last tour of Korea and realised my folly. To do justice to the place you need at least one full day ( or two).

The impressive frontage of the National Museum of Korea in Yongsan

The JoongAng Daily reports: "According to the committee, the museum was chosen as the venue for the welcome reception and dinner to allow the leaders to enjoy Korea’s history and cultural assets during their tightly scheduled two-day trip. The committee said 11 cultural relics will be selected and showcased, and information about each will be provided in eight different languages....The welcome reception will start at 6 p.m. and last an hour, with the event being broadcast live by major media outlets...The leaders will join a working dinner at a special hall inside the museum to begin their discussion."

If you have time to spare, you can revisit the museum grounds in the evenings

for some promising night photography practice

Alas - didn't have time to check what lay beyond those steps

which straddled the two wings of the museum

2. A special dinner for the spouses of the visiting leaders will be hosted by the First Lady, Kim Yoon-ok on Thursday evening at the Leeum, Samsung Museum of Art. ( The museum will be closed to the public on the 10th and 11th of November.)

G20 visitors may be greeted by these whimsical creatures

outside the Leeum Samsung Museum of Art

Here's a snippet from its website:


"Since its establishment in 1965, the Samsung Foundation of Culture has committed itself to the preservation and exhibition of Korean cultural heritage. Beginning with Korean artifacts collected by the late Samsung Chairman, Byung-Chull Lee (pen-name Ho-Am), the Samsung Foundation of Culture has been operating the Ho-Am Art Museum , the Ho-Am Art Gallery, and the Rodin Gallery. Following the example set by Ho-Am, Samsung Museum of Art, has dedicated himself to both the preservation of Korean art history and the exhibition of modern and contemporary works by Korean and foreign artists. ....The name for Leeum, Samsung Museum of Art, is the combination of the family name of its founder, 'Lee,' and the abbreviated word for museum, ‘um.’



3. The following day, they will tour the palace grounds and gardens of Changdeokgung and visit  the Korea Furniture Museum.  "This museum completed an ambitious twelve-year building project to become the most comprehensive private museum of its kind. Ten traditional homes were rebuilt from earlier dynasties to display the proper usage of furniture and interior decoration in order for the viewer to fully appreciate life in traditional Korean homes. The museum specializes in collecting, preserving and exhibiting traditional Korean wooden furniture with more than 1,500 traditional pieces."  Click here for a snapshot review of the place.

The Korea Furniture Museum offers more than glimpses of traditional chairs and tables.

Handsome hanok examples can also be admired here.

sources:
http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2927988
http://leeum.samsungfoundation.org/eng/main.asp
http://www.designboom.com/snapshot/cat/25/korean_furniture_museum.html
http://www.korea.net/detail.do?guid=28601
http://english.seoul.go.kr/cav/ena/mng_view2.php?idx=10465&cPage=&pidx=6
http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=268217
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=268137

Where To Enjoy Autumn Leaves in Seoul

I've been so preoccupied about the whens of the fall foliage that I've almost forgotten to consider the wheres.
Here, then is a list of places where you may enjoy the fall foliage. ( not in any order of preference):

1. Gyeongbokgung - Leaves on the palace grounds are expected to peak around early November. According to the Cultural Heritage Administration. "early to mid November will be the best time to enjoy fall foliage at the royal palaces in downtown Seoul....Leaves will begin to turn about ten days later than normal this year. It ....expects the scenery to be better than normal as a result of wide differences in daily temperatures."

 2. Changdeokgung

( Exit 3, Anguk Station, Line 3) "A UNESCO World Heritage site, this Joseon-era palace includes many serene gardens. One of Changdeokgung's gardens houses over a hundred varieties of trees. However, in order to appreciate the foliage of the Changdeokgung gardens trees, visitors must join a guided tour or pay a hefty 15,000 won for an all-day self-guided tour only available on Thursdays."

3.  Changgyeonggung

4. Deoksugung   - It is also open at night but do check out in the daytime Deoksugung Stone Wall ( Exit 3 or 12, Deoksugung Station, Line 1 or 2). Fans of the TV drama series, Lovers in Prague, may recall a romantic scene shot here.

5. Samcheongdong Road, a.k.a. Gallery Road,  which starts at the south east corner of Gyeongbokgung, is lined with gingko trees. You can also explore the beautiful grounds on Samcheonggak.

6. Namsan - I'd suggest you walk up to the top and then take the cable car down. That way, you can also enjoy the 'chak-chak' of the local magpies. (Their size was also surprising.)

7. Bugaksan - Actually I think I enjoyed the views of the Seoul suburbs from Bugaksan more than from the vantage point of Namsan Tower. Probably because it was more hard-earned as the climb up Bugaksan seemed to be harder-going. Don't take my subjective word for it.

8. Jongmyo Shrine

If your timing is right, you'll also get to witness a Confucian ritual held here in grand style.

9. Sowolgil

"Running south of Mt. Namsan for almost 4km, this ginkgo-lined boulevard (best approached via Exit 1, Myeongdong Station, Line 4) offers plentiful space for rest and quiet contemplation. Sowolgil in fall looks like a scene from a film, with bright leaves scattered artfully across the walkway. The pathway eventually connects to Namsan Park." You may want to check if the bicycle elevator that is supposed to be built on this road has been completed. What does a bicycle elevator look like?

10. Hongneung Arboretum
" Seoul's only arboretum, Hongneung Arboretum (approached via Hoegi Station, Line 1 or Exit 3, Korea University Station, Line 6) is made up of nine gardens, including an aquatic garden, a wetland garden, a coniferous tree garden, and a garden of edible and medicinal plants. The garden of broadleaf trees, located behind the main building, is stunning in fall when hundreds of trees transform into a vivid array of bold colors. A tour of the entire arboretum ─ approximately 780 square meters in area ─ takes nearly three hours and is free of charge."

sources:
http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/news/news_Dm_detail.htm?No=76485&id=Dm
http://english.chosun.com/site/data/html_dir/2010/10/28/2010102800984.html
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=1104134
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264337
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264348
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264316
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264350
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=261031
http://www.korea.net/detail.do?guid=46128
http://www.klm.com/destinationguide/gb_en/airline-ticket/asia/east-asia/south-korea/seoul/thingstodo.htm
http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264314

Houses in Korea I Fell In Love With, Part 2

Devotees of Personal Taste who were hoping to make a pilgrimage to the non-existant Sanggojae may opt instead to stay at Rakkojae which is also in the Bukchon Hanok Village. Those who fell more in love with the house than with Lee Min-ho may find consolation in the fact that a lot of effort has been put into achieving a harmonious balance between tradition and modern comforts in the former home of aristocrats (yangban) which has been turned into a guesthouse since 2003.

The name “Rakkojae” means “the place where one can enjoy the traditions of times past and rest one's soul” and judging from the photos of this 130 year-old house, it certainly looks like an inviting oasis of peace amid the concrete sprawl of Seoul. Its founder, Ahn Young-hwan, a former computer programmer, shared his philosophy on the website of his guesthouse: “Korea cannot be seen. It must be felt…. Korea’s recent past shows a struggle against poverty and devastation, and the dawn of growth-oriented development. But, in the process, a great deal of cultural properties were destroyed within the four gates. The time has come to restore our heritage, to enjoy life. I hope cultural spaces will be developed by other like-minded individuals in the future, because Rakkojae is only the beginning.”

Ahn enlisted the help of hanok architext, Jeong-Yeong-jin to convert the nobleman’s house into a luxurious guesthouse which could play host to not more than twelve guests at a time. It employs the traditional ondol system but at same time, you have modern plumbing in private bsthrooms, even a Japanese-style bath to soak fully in, and Net access.

Here then is my fantasy program of my stay in Rakkojae ( an ajumma can indulge in some day-dreaming, can’t she?)


 
I’d pack a light bag and take the subway line No 3 to Anguk Station. Walking instead of taking the cab helps to build up the anticipation. After coming out from Exit No 2, I’d walk for about 300 m until I reach Gahae-dong Office. Then as I turn into the sideline opposite the office, I’d mentally prepare myself to enter a more genteel and slow-paced world. Sounds as if I’m preparing for templestay except I don’t have to get up at 4 am and worry if I can handle 108 prostrations!

As I head up the alley towards Rakkojae, I’d pause to admire the frontage of its neighbours though the high walls may convey an air of inaccessibility. When I reach the pinewood entrance of Rakkojae, I’d take a picture of the wooden tablet bearing its name in Chinese characters to check out the pronunciation in Mandarin later.

The beauty of the Daecheong, the open-floor courtyard warrants a mini-photo taking session before I head towards my sleeping quarters and remove my shoes on the didimdol ( stepping stone). Looking into the immaculate and empty floor, I wonder if I’m expected to lay out the bed mattress myself as there is no Western-style bed here.

But then other questions follow rapidly – What should I do first? Shall I take advantage of Rakkojae’s proximity to two important palaces and do some sightseeing at Gyeongbokgung and Changdeokgung? Indulge in the complimentary wood-fire sauna made from natural mud? Or sign up for a tea ceremony session, a cooking lesson on how to make kimchi or try my hand at calligraphy? Or do I simply explore the grounds and buildings after unpacking?

Whatever my choice is, I find myself sitting down in the evening to a feast. For starters, abalone porridge is served and this is followed by sashimi ( to cater to the many Japanese guests curious about the Korean version of their ryokan), Korean-style roast beef, japchae, bulgogi amongst other dishes. While we finish our meal with a light dessert and sip cups of soju or rice wine, we’re treated to a musical performance by a pansori singer.

That night, I exchange travel notes with other guests as we admire the stars and moon from our vantage point in the open courtyard. My sleep is deep and relaxing on the comforting warmth of bed linen nicely toasted by the ondol-heated floor and I dream of Lee Min-ho or better still, the owner of Rakkojae offering me free board and lodging for the rest of my life. ….

Seriously though, Rakkojae is not simply a place to play out your Personal Taste fantasies but a microcosm of the elegance and refinement of old Korea where you might find yourself falling in love with an aesthetic and a way of life instead of just a Hallyu star.

sources:
www.rkj.co.kr.
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=255895

http://www.modthesims.info/download.php?t=406025
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=262465
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/AC/AC_EN_4_8.jsp?cid=351668
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=561382
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/CU/CU_EN_8_5_1_67.jsp

http://www.tumblr.com/tagged/sanggojae

Moonlight Tour and Medical Check-Up At Changdeokgung

September and October are great months to visit Changdeokgung in Seoul - generally, the palace is at its best at this season with the autumn foliage but now there are TWO other reasons to make a date with this UNESCO-designated World Heritage Site:

1. Free Medical Check-up

Tourists can enjoy free check-ups by doctors affiliated with the “Association of Korean Oriental Medicine” at Nae-ui-won  in the palace every Thursday from Sep. 2 to Oct. 28 (13:30 - 17:00; except for the Thursday of the Chuseok holiday, September 23rd).

An extract from the KNTO website explains the significance of Naeuiwon (내의원). It "was one of the three hospitals of the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910), and was the place where medical practitioners mixed medicine and provided medical services for the king and the rest of the royal family. It is said that the renowned court physician Heo Jun worked in Naeuiwon for 44 years."

Experience first-hand: 

• 
  
   how doctors trained in Oriental medicine form a  diagnosis by checking your pulse (“jinmaek”).
• 
  
   ( depending on the diagnosis) acupuncture (“chim”) or  moxibustion (“tteum”). Both forms of treatment  focus on acupuncture points to improve circulation.
• 
  
  how to grind traditional herbs etc. for the prescription
• 
  
  how the traditional medicine is wrapped and take home the yakcheop as a momento
• 
  
  copying medical diagrams out of the Donguibogam (동의보감, Korean medical book).
• 
  
  a cup of traditional ssanghwacha tea as a calming conclusion to your visit.

2. Moonlight Tour of Changdeokgung

The KTO and Cultural Heritage Administration of Korea are co-hosting special evening tours of Changdeokgung between 20:00 and 22: 00 on the following dates: September 23, 24, October 20, 21, 23, 24 and November 19, 20, 21.

For 30,000 won, your tour starts at Donhwamun,, the front gate of the palace,  where you're given a portable guide device. Practise your night photography  skills in front of Injeongjeon ( where ministers and dignitaries used to have audience with the Joseon kings) .

Let your imagination run wild as you half expect a royal ghost to step out from behind one of these pillars in the dark to say "Annyeong".

 It would be interesting how the palace would be lit up at night.

You'll be invited by your portable guide to rest a while at Buyongji like the Joseon kings used to do. You may not have the privilege of admiring the view of the pavilion here but you can study how the round islet and square-shaped pond here harmonise to reflect the principles of yin and yang.

Next, make your way to Youngyeongdang where foreign ambassadors used to be received and entertained. A traditional music ensemble awaits you there to treat you to music in the moonlight. The geomungo may create a special vibe amid the shadows and form a deep impression as you take the forest path back to the entrance.

So go ahead, make me green with envy and send me your photos of Changdeokgung in the moonlight. Please note though: places are limited for each night so go early.

More on Changdeokgung in a future posting.

Sources:

 http://www.koreaherald.com/lifestyle/Detail.jsp?newsMLId=20100825000574

http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/FU/FU_EN_15.jsp?nCategoryID=&searchType=&keyword=&gotoPage=1&cid=1030680&cCode=&nCategoryID=&searchType=&searchKeyword=
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=312966
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=312966
http://eng.cdg.go.kr/main/main.htm
http://www.sal2009.com/index.php?key=geomungo

Rent A Room In A Korean Palace To Impress Foreign Business Clients?

No it wasn't an April's Fool prank. The JoongAng Daily reported one day earlier ( 30th March)  that the Cultural Heritage Administration was planning to rent out space in a World Heritage Site to private companies or government bodies for meetings, conferences or lectures. Frankly, I'm shaking my head in bafflement. Is it really necessary to exploit Seonhyangjae, a room in Changdeokgung, formerly used as a study during the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910) for commercial  benefit?

The price tag for the privilege of brainstorming marketing strategies on palace grounds? "360,000 won ($317) for one hour, plus an additional 100,000 won in maintenance and service fees"  including ondol heating.

According to Choi Shin-young, an official with the CHA ( as reported in the JoongAng Daily), “If we receive positive feedback from users, we plan to expand the program to include other palaces, too. Wooden structures tend to be better maintained when they are frequented by people, although we will need to be extremely cautious.”  Indeed - remember what happened to Sungnyemun or Namdaemun  in January 2008?

( Caption from JoongAng Daily) "A group of employees from a local firm meet at Seonghyangjae, a room in Changdeok Palace, on March 12. The room will be available to the general public for rent under a pilot program that runs from April 6 to 10."

sources:

http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264348

http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2918471