Wish I had read Bruce Cumings' "Korea's Place in the Sun - A Modern History" before I visited Suwon. I would have appreciated Hwaseong fortress a lot more if I had a fuller picture of the sad Prince Sado then. As it was, it was a rushed visit to Suwon, coming at the tail end of my 2005 autumn tour. I'd taken the inter-city bus from Yongdae-ri into the city after spending a few peaceful days in Baekdamsa. Not exactly a wise move as the contrast between the idyllic setting in Soraksan National Park and the busy urban landscape was too jarring. Then it was a quick tour of the Korean Cultural Village just outside of Suwon before making the all-too-hasty decision to cover only the western half of the fortress wall as I was pressed for time.
Told myself that I'd complete the circuit in another visit. Ha - how optimistic I was. Now I have to be content to be an armchair traveller to revisit Hwaseong. Fortunately, there're a few interesting websites that I hope to explore more fully in the days to come. Plus, am re-reading the section from Cuming's book which describes how Prince Sado was forced to kill himself after his scandalous behaviour and how Hwaseong Fortress was eventually built by his son, Jeongjo, in memory of his late father.
Of course, the fortress isn't simply an elaborate shrine to commemorate one's parent. It was designed to repel invasions by the Japanese but it was also intended as an alternative capital. King Jeongjo evidently had a bone to pick with Seoul in more ways than one.
source:
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/CU/CU_EN_10_4_3_1.jsp

5 comments:
Holy Hell. That first sentence of the VisitKorea link is a doozy. "The Suwon Hwaseong Fortress was the world’s first planned city." Complete and utter rubbish. I don't know which was the first, but it was probably in Europe or South America. Even Beijing must be older.
Hi there,
Thanks for dropping by and posting your comment. Was beginning to think no-one reads my blog. ( I don't keep track of numbers). Actually I posted the link because it was a source of the pic I used for the posting and I did raise my eyebrow at that claim as well but mentally shrugged it off.
Something lost in translation or an instance of massaging the national ego?
Indeed, what IS the world's the first planned city? Am going to google to look for the answer after this. My guess is Mohenjo Daro or Harappa in the Indus Valley.
Thanks once again.
ajumma
Dear Anonymous,
Check this out:
http://www.smh.com.au/national/obituaries/digging-up-the-worlds-first-planned-city-20090410-a2sl.html
Cheers,
ajumma
Thanks. Indus Valley 4,500 years ago makes much more sense than, you know, Hwaseong. Seems to me that nations that proclaim to be the "best" or "first" generally aren't.
All the best! I enjoy your blog -- I catch it via RSS, which is most convenient.
Dear Anonymous,
Forgot to mention you made my day the other day with your first comment and thanks once again today for your encouraging reply.
From a very grateful
ajumma
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