Wednesday, September 9, 2009

Walk to Yongmun Pokpo Gapsa – Part 2

Gapsa is too crowded today as there's some celebration going on. So I look instead for Yongmun Falls which is a short walk away from Gapsa. But I’m annoyed with myself as I’ve forgotten to change to sneakers. At least I have my walking stick with me and the company of an ajumma on her way to some hermitage.

She seems to approve of my travelling alone which is unusual because most Koreans that I meet are surprised when I say “Hunja-seo” ( by myself). They’re more accustomed to going out with family or friends. But from my very limited Korean and her occasional gesturing to her crotch with snorts of disgust, I gather she hasn’t had many positive experiences with men.

My companion for the moment tells me that there’s going to be some norae (singing) at the temple later in the day. As if to confirm our bond of single sisterhood, she offers me some biscuits and candy. I try to reciprocate by giving her some of my snacks brought from home. Am glad that I’ve a supply of these in my backpack. Just before she turns onto another path leading to the hermitage, she pauses to light up a particularly stinky cigarette. I wonder if they allow smoking or she’s just relieving stress before she enters the hermitage where she’s probably opted for refuge from the world.

Missing her colourful personality though not her cigarette smoke, I continue my walk towards the pokpo. It’s a relief to be surrounded by greenery, fresh air and a silence that’s only broken by the gurgling stream. Waterfalls or pokpo aren't very active or dramatic in autumn ( dry season) so I brace myself for a vertical trickle. Yongmun, summer or autumn, is still a pretty spot for a picnic. What I didn't expect was the carving of the name on a nearby rock. Wonder how long it took for the sculptor to finish the job. On my way back from Yongmun, come across more ajummas - this time with handbags. Did they pack their kimchi or gimbap in those?

from my travel notes Saturday 22 Oct 2005

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