Around Korea By Bus In Two Weeks, Part 2

Here's the second part of my itinerary for my 2005 solo visit to Korea. For more information on buses, click here.

29 Oct – Saturday
Joined the free Suncheon City Tour by bus. Just ask at the Tourist Information booth just outside the train station. ( NOTE: Outside, not inside the train station!)

Beautiful sunny day in Nagan-eupseong Folk Village; a patch of eulalia and a stunning maple tree in the Dolmen Park were distractions from the main attractions i.e. prehistoric burial grounds.

The size of Songgwangsa was as impressive as the variety of autumnal colours on the temple grounds.With the bird flu scare, it was reassuring to see that precautions were even taken outdoors at Suncheon Bay.

30 Oct – Sunday
Got greedy and signed up for another tour on the Suncheon City Tour bus as I didn't want to pass up the chance to see Seonamsa.

31 Oct – Monday
Took bus near my yeogwan to Gurye and then changed for a local bus to Piagol Valley. A great walk would've been greater if I had the presence of mind to wear the right shoes. The result: I missed the chance to see the famous blood-red maples of Piagol.

The disappointment was off-set by the entertaining company of three kind gentlemen of Gurye. Their leader gave me a ride to Hwaomsa and showed me where I could find a place to stay outside this major temple in Jirisan National Park. Beautiful sunset.

1 Nov – Tuesday
Revisited Hwaom-sa in the early morning and saw the monks sweeping the lane leading up to the temple. An ancient pine tree, stone sculptures and stone lantern created the deepest impressions.

Around mid-day, I boarded a bus from the bus stop near my minbak to head for Gwangju. Changed to bus No 311 for Damyang. Enjoyed an unexpected tour of Damyang, courtesy of the local police!

On Kalgksu & Catnapping Toddler Gongju – Part 5

A family on the tour bus invite me to join them for lunch and gamsa-he-yo to them for my first Kalguksu i.e. hand-made egg noodles cooked in a light broth with clams, mushrooms and slices of potato & cucumber. It arrives in a large wok heated on a small gas stove at the dining table. I’m amused to see a large & unpretentious pair of scissors on stand-by, in case diners struggle with long strands of noodles. Those who tire of spicy food will find kalguksu a soothing alternative. This nutritious and filling dish can easily qualify as comfort food.

Originally, I wanted to check out the Lonely Planet’s recommendation to sample Gomanaru’s wide variety of tasty food. ( Check out this enterprising provincial restaurant’s website at www.gomanaru. co.kr/food/menu/ ) The guidebook, however, forgot to mention that reservations are necessary or at least highly recommended. The restaurant was full and so I had to look elsewhere. Fortunately the parents of some of the children on the tour bus come to my rescue with their invitation to join them for the kalguksu lunch.

Time and again, I’m floored by such examples of hospitality from the Koreans. Different people on the tour bus offer me snacks, candy and fruit throughout the day and I’m glad that I brought from home my own supply of junk food to return the compliment. One toddler quickly sizes up the situation and after securing a fair share of sweets, is happy to curl up on me for a catnap on the bus. Don’t know if he’s too tired to care that he’s sleeping on a stranger but I’d like to think that he’s comfortable enough with me not to see as one.

Source of pic: http://eng.gg.go.kr/tag/Haemul%20Kalguksu

On Thwarted She-Bears and Festivals - Gongju Part 2

It’s an easy stroll up Gongju’s main street to the Tourist Information Booth. The booth is at the foot of the hillock and on top stands Gongsanseong, (fortress) which has good views of the Geumgang ( river). If you go past the booth and just before the steel arched Geumgang Bridge, you’ll come across a sculpture of a bear ( or what I assume to be Woongsin, the bear goddess) as this town also hosts the annual Gomanaru Festival between July and August to commemorate a legend of a tragic relationship between a bear and human. A shrine was built to appease the restless spirit of the she-bear and the old name for Gongju is Ungjin meaning "Bear Port".

Another more important festival held in Gongju every other year is the Baekje Cultural Festival ( if it’s not in Gongju, Buyeo will play host). The tourist brochure says it’s one of the three greatest cultural festivals in the country. With around 90 events, including a parade, memorial rites for important figures from the Baekje period and cultural art events, 9-12 October seems to be a great time to visit the town. Unfortunately, I arrive later in the month so have to be content with the usual sights.

I’m even too late to witness the changing of guard ceremony at Wungjinseong on the fortress grounds. This solemn reenactment with colourful banners and costumes is based on research of ancient Baekje traditions. It’s held from April to early October, every hour between 2 pm and 9 pm on weekends ( except the rainy season in the summer months of July and August).

Too late for the festivals and ceremonies, too early for the autumn foliage at their best. Sigh. But at least I can join the Gongju City Tour - more on this in the next posting!

Sources:
Tourist brochure from Gongju City Hall Dept of Culture and Tourism
http://www.baekje.org/html/en/index.html
https://www.gongju.go.kr/html/en/festival/festival_01.html