Rustic Charms of A Fortress Village, Suncheon, Part 3

Feel strange walking into Nagan-eupseong simply dressed in jeans, a pullover and sneakers. Should be wearing a plain hanbok or even some traditional peasant clothes stained the colour of persimmons with straw sandals instead. Such is the charm of this village that once I pass through its main gate, I am transported into another world and another time.

Nagan-eupseong Folk Village, 22 km west of Suncheon, was the site of the Paji Castle during the Baekje Dynasty and continued as a village in the Joseon dynasty. It’s more like a combination of Hahoe Village in Andong and the Korean Folk Village in Suwon because people still live and work here, alongside the open-air museum that it is. Unlike Hahoe which prides itself on being home to aristocratic families, Nagan-eupseong showcases the life of the ordinary folk.

Another striking difference is that Nagan-eupseong is a fortress village surrounded by a pretty thick wall with impressive gates at both ends of the village. The 1.41 km long and 4 m high walls, first built from sand and eventually stone, were intended to keep out Japanese invaders. These days, tourists such as yours truly are free to climb onto the ramparts. The double vision one gets standing there is quite strange: within the walls, I’m back in the time looking over rustic straw huts or tiled roofs of cottages and outside the walls, I’m immediately whisked back to modern times with the Korean 20th century style houses.

Am glad to have the company of three year old Dong Ok and his mum, a friendly ajumma that I meet on the tour bus. She points out to me various plants in the gardens of different cottages as we peer over the low stone hedges. We discover cotton balls which can be plucked straight off the plant, the purple flower of the doraji plant, another delicate bloom from the green tea bush, calabashes ( longish dark-green gourds sun-dried to use as bathing sponges). Persimmons and quinces hang from bare branches and the ginkgo trees are splendid as always.

There’s also a water wheel still in operation, the amusing entrance of a dragon kiln at the local pottery ( painted to look like a monster’s open mouth), a drinks dispensing machine boarded up to look suitably rustic and retro, a grand pavilion with an enormous drum, a long-bearded halbeoji in yellow earth-dyed garb who welcomes us as we watch him weaving ropes the traditional way.

The claim on the Suncheon website seems justified – there is a friendly atmosphere and if I’m fortunate enough to pass this way again, I’d like to stay in one of the minbaks available here to soak it all in very slowly.

Sources:
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=762732
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=312888http://www.nagan.or.kr/english/main.html