For some perverse reason I find myself waking up before dawn and making my way to the Gongsan-seong. Don’t fancy bumping into strange creatures or spooks in the darkness so am relieved to see a jogger pass by and hear a group of people playing badminton. O-ho. So am not the earliest bird in town. The good thing about coming out so early is that the place isn’t crowded with tourist groups and I get to see what the fortress is like in a more intriguing atmosphere.
I follow the clear footpaths and signposts to the Yougeun-sa (temple) near the riverside only to be greeted by not-so-friendly barks of the resident dog. It’s more peaceful at the Manharu pavilion which has great views of the Geumgang. Just next to it is Yeon-ji (Pond). Supposed to be a lotus lake but more likely to be a communal watering-hole as it’s too small and deep, with steep stone steps around the perimeter leading down to the water’s edge. I try to imagine what it was like for ajummas of the Baekje times to gather here to collect water and the latest gossip but am also careful not to trip and fall into the pond. The low railings here don’t offer much protection for either the pond or the curious visitor. 
About 2 hours is recommended for a leisurely stroll around the grounds of Gongsan-seong. Other features of the fortress include Gongbukru, “a classic example of gate architecture of the Joseon Dynasty” and Imryugak, “used as a banquet hall for the king’s subjects”. ( Quotes from tourist pamphlet). I get back to the main entrance at Geumseoru and climb to the top of the watch-tower in time to see the sun emerging like a rich egg yolk from the dark woods in the distance.
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