Gyeongsangbuk-do ( Province) seems to have more than its fair share of attractions. There’s Gyeongju, the old capital of the Shilla Kingdom, Juwangsan Provincial Park, and Ulleung-do. ( More on some of these places in future postings). And of course, there’s Andong, so proud of its five-thousand year history that it calls itself “the birthplace of Korean traditional culture”.
But as the Lonely Planet points out, there really isn’t much to see in Andong city itself; most of the attractions are on the outskirts so visitors are better off staying in Hahoe Village or Jirye Art Village and making them bases for day-trips around Andong. But it really helps to have your own set of wheels to get around from one historical relic to another cultural attraction. I am lucky that Mr Kim Won-gil shows his guests some of the more important sights in his trusty SUV before we spend the night at JAV.
Our first stop is Sinse-dong Chilcheung Jeontap, a seven -storey brick pagoda, the oldest and biggest in the country. It’s at the eastern edge of the main town beside the railway line & near the Andong Dam. Built during the Shilla Period, it is 17 m tall with a circumference of 7.5 m. Unfortunately, the top part has been damaged but otherwise, it seems to be withstanding the ravages of time quite well.
Next, we visit the traditional home of another aristocratic family ( the Lee or Yi clan) which is just a stone’s throw away from the pagoda. I wonder how the ancestors of the present owners would feel if they know their once- unimpeded view of the river is now blocked by the elevated railway line running parallel to their home. Although there is an old caretaker, there doesn’t seem to be anyone else living there so the home has a forlorn air.
Behind one of its quarters, there’s a slender tree with some ripe fruits already on the ground. I pick one up and sniff its sweet fragrance and in love with its scent, carry it away like some posy. Later, I learn that it’s quince or mo-kwa and delighted to find there’s also a quince tree in JAV. Koreans use it to make tea - haven't tried it yet but can imagine it tastes delicious.
Behind one of its quarters, there’s a slender tree with some ripe fruits already on the ground. I pick one up and sniff its sweet fragrance and in love with its scent, carry it away like some posy. Later, I learn that it’s quince or mo-kwa and delighted to find there’s also a quince tree in JAV. Koreans use it to make tea - haven't tried it yet but can imagine it tastes delicious. 