Chuseok - The Worst of Times, Part 1

I thought I was used to seeing traffic jams but I wasn’t prepared for the almost never-ending lines of cars that streamed out of Seoul on the eve of Chuseok. If you ever need proof that Seoul is made up of people whose roots are elsewhere in the country, look no further than this national three-day holiday, held each mid-autumn according to the traditional Chinese lunar calendar. It is a time when most Koreans return to their hometowns for family reunions and rituals to honour their ancestors.

The bus and train stations are exceptionally crowded and those with their own set of wheels are not that fortunate because they’re likely to be stuck in massive traffic jams as more than 4.2 million cars clog up the main highways leading out of the capital.

My own first experience of Chuseok was on the tour bus heading towards Seoul and I remember feeling amazed at the number of cars all making their way in the opposite direction. The bumper to bumper traffic was moving so slowly that I could even see some drivers reading newspapers, chatting on their mobile phones and even one person cutting his toenails.

Chuseok can be the worst of times to find yourselves in Seoul. You can’t go shopping, your choices of where to dine are extremely limited and even places of entertainment, like the department stores and restaurants, are closed for at least three days. On my 2003 trip to South Korea, I had forgotten that the timing coincided with this important holiday. It was very disappointing because I couldn’t show my travel companion the wonderful mazes and array of merchandise on sale at Namdaemun Market. However, it was one of the few times I was glad we were on a package tour. At least our meals were arranged by our tour guide; otherwise we would’ve have been walking around and around looking for a place to eat.

It can also be a pretty stressful time for some Koreans as well. I remember reading a local news article in English about how housewives in Korea were particularly tired out from all the food preparations they had to make for the elaborate rituals. Couples may bicker over whose side of the family to visit first to pay their respects. One emerging trend among younger Korean couples is to book a tour out of the country during this period to avoid all the hassles. Single Korean girls may have to run the gauntlet of embarrassing questions from relatives about their single status while the occasional quarrel may erupt when the festivities include too many glasses of soju. It’s a sad time for homeless Koreans as they have no family to celebrate with them.

For more information about what's closed and what's not, click here.

Source: http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/nation/2007/09/117_10804.html


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