You Take The High Road; I’ll Take the Low Road, Juwangsan, Part 3

Here are some trails you can follow within the Juwangsan National Park. They appear in order of level of difficulty and scenic interest.

1. The Waterfall Trail ( which I take because I’m a sucker for water features even though I know they aren’t so exciting in autumn; OK, I’ll be honest – the gentle gradient along this walk has a lot to do with my choice as well!)

Daejeonsa - Jeilpokpo ( First Waterfall; 2 km from Ticket Office) – Jeipokpo ( Second Waterfall) – Jesampokpo ( Third Waterfall) – Naewonmaeul ( Artists’ Village)
Comment:

Follow the river upstream and enjoy getting side-tracked when you reach signposts which point to some interesting rock formations. The narrow gorge, site for the first waterfall, has an element of suspense because the walker can’t see what’s ahead. The second pokpo is more dramatic with twin falls taking the plunge. The third is also intriguing as it seems to have carved out a deep pool before retiring in a shallow pool. Naewonmaeul seems to be abandoned or perhaps only comes alive in summer. There’s only a tethered goat here bleating for release.

2. The Caves Route ( which can be combined with the first one)
Daejeonsa – Yeonhwagul ( on the left side of the trail, near a picnic ground) – then further up, on the right side of the trail, Juwangam ( hermitage) – Mujanggul – Juwanggul

Comment:
Somewhere near Juwangam, follow a steel staircase for about 100 m through a narrow gorge to reach a cliff and cave with an adjacent waterfall. Legend has it that King Ju took refuge with his chidren here while hiding from his enemies. Apparently he also died in Juwanggul ( cave).

3. The "I'm No Wimp" Route ( recommended by the Lonely Planet)
“Most visitors just see the waterfalls and caves, but for a more rigorous experience, try hiking up from Daejoensa to Juwangsan, 720 m ( 1 ¼ hours), along the ridge to Kaldeunggogae, 732 m ( 15 minutes) and then down to Hurimaegi ( 50 mins) before following the valley back to Daejeonsa. ( 1 ¾ hours)

Comment:
Time estimates irritate me – I know it means time for the average walker but then, I’m obviously below average as I usually need far longer to reach the said destinations. But seriously, this sounds like a great route and the views from the peak and ridge sound promising.

Sources:
Map http://www.flickr.com/photos/alexzuccarelli/2711311294/sizes/o/
http://juwang.knps.or.kr/eng/info/history.html
http://www.land.go.kr/gTra.do?tra=enudestination&cid=3505
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264150

The Early Bird Gets Juwangsan, Part 2

It’s 7 a.m. and the ticket office at the entrance to Juwangsan National Park isn’t open yet. It’s almost as if I have the whole place to myself. But then again, there are a few middle-aged and elderly couples who are out early as well for their daily exercise and I’m already envious of them because they’ve got such a delightful park on their doorstep.

South Korea is a walker’s paradise with twenty national parks and 19 provincial parks. Some of them, like Soraksan and Jirisan are so large, you’d need several weekends to cover the main trails. Juwangsan is comparatively modest in size ( 106 square kilometers) and it’s ideal for those less inclined to head for the inclines.

The gentle trail along Jubangcheon, the main valley in the middle of this gem of a park, suits me fine. I can walk for 10 km ( 5 km one-way) , without taxing my soles or ankles too much. The broad trail narrows down gradually to a footpath that goes past some intriguing rock formations that look even more mysterious in the early morning mists.

Like the other parks in Korea, Juwangsan National Park is a spa for the senses. The woods are lovely, with a palette of red maples, brown oaks and green pines that contrast with grey shades of the rocks. The air is cool, crisp, clean. It’s easier to enjoy all these because of the silence except for a few birds chirping and the sounds of the stream and the waterfalls. It’s great to be away from concrete sidewalks to get in touch literally with bark, leaf, sand, stone and water.

The sun’s fairly high in the sky and the crowds are already pouring in when I make my way out to a sikdang for a hot bowl of kalguksu. Can’t help feeling smug as I sit on a cushion beside a sluggish stream and watch the tour groups and families stream into the park.

Think I’ve discovered my modus operandi when it comes to visiting the parks: get in early before the tour coaches, get out for an early lunch before the crowds swell in the restaurants and then, if there's still energy and inclination, spend the rest of the day exploring a less crowded trail in the park.

Source:
http://tour.cs.go.kr/eng/03/01_01.asp
http://origo.tourexpress.com
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264150

The Stone Screens of Juwangsan, Part 1

Sometime during the 8th century during a more turbulent time of the Tang Dynasty, revolutionaries or rebels were chasing down King Juwang of China. Legend has it that he sought refuge in Seokpyeongsan, meaning “Stone Screen Mountain” and it’s not hard to see how it came by that name. The poor old king must have felt reassured when he saw the limestone peaks emerging out of the green like some sentinels offering refuge. These days, people running away from urban noise and pollution, continue to seek relief in the place which now goes by the name of Juwangsan.

It is the “only designated national park in the south-eastern region” and as I’m making my way south from Andong, it makes sense to stop by and explore this place a bit. But whether you’re in Andong or Seoul or Busan for that matter, Juwangsan Park is worth the time and effort. Apparently it used to be harder to get here as it’s far from the major cities but new roads have made it easier for motorists and buses to gain access.

The roads have probably been widened since my visit there in 2005 and more of the surrounding rice fields may have given way to the construction of more minbaks, yeogwans or hotels just outside the entrance into the national park. I can understand the temptation to give up the farming life to go into the tourism business – from the sun-dried faces of the halmeonis struggling to sell their persimmons, mushrooms, roasted rice and red peppers at the road-side near the bus terminal, it’s not easy to make a living in rural Korea. But at the same time, I’d be sorry to see those golden rice fields shrink or vanish completely.

It’s way before noon, but as my bus rolls into the bus terminal, I can see that the car park just outside the entrance to the park is already quite crowded with tour buses and cars. Groups of ajummas and ajeosshis clad in red wind-cheaters are sitting cross-legged in circles and picnicking on their kimchi and gimbaps. Just opposite the bus terminal and across the river, I find quite easily a minbak ( family-run guesthouse) with a very clean and spacious room ( for 20,000 won – 2005 rates). There’s also a camping ground beside the minbak village if you prefer to pitch a tent. The National Parks Information Centre is on the second floor of the bus terminal. It’s useful to stop there first to pick up maps, get weather updates and send off emails on PCs available here for tourists.

Source:
Juwangsan National Park Information brochure produced by the National Parks Authority
http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264150


For more info, contact: JNP office
Tel 054-873-0015
Email: chuwang@npa.or.kr
Homepage: www.npa.or.kr/chuwang

Ganggangsullae - Not Simply Going Around In Circles.

I thought that Ganggangsullae was just a dance in which girls held hands and went around in circles. After all, most pictures one googles up depict maidens in hanbok dancing in a round but after watching the video, I realise there's a lot more and I understand now why this folk dance has just recently been added to UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity list.

The only times I saw Korean dance was in the Chongdong Theatre ( more on that in future postings!) but I think I'd much prefer to see this one performed in a real village setting under a real full moon. Never mind if tradition is broken and the dancers are a mixed bunch of ajummas, halmeonis and even little boys instead of all pretty virgins as they're meant to be. Ganggangsullae is about the community and keeping in touch with one's agricultural roots and now it's on my wish list of things to see in Korea.

The video may take some time to upload but it's a great introduction to the dance.

Here's the official write-up by the Cultural Heritage Administration of Korea:

Ganggangsullae is a seasonal harvest and fertility ritual popular in the south-western part of the Republic of Korea, performed primarily on Koreas Thanksgiving in the eighth lunar month. Under a bright full moon, dozens of young, unmarried village women gather in a circle, join hands and sing and dance all night under the direction of a lead singer.

During interludes, the women playfully mime vignettes reflecting life in a farm or fishing village, including treading on roof tiles, unrolling a mat, catching a mouse or tying herrings. The dance takes its name from the refrain repeated after each verse, although the exact meaning of the word is unknown. Once a rare break from restrictive rules governing the behaviour of rural young women who were not allowed to sing aloud or go out at night, except during the ''Chuseok'' Thanksgiving celebration, the ritual is mostly preserved today by middle-aged women in cities and taught as part of the music curriculum of elementary schools.

Now practised as a performing art throughout Korea, it can be seen as a representative Korean folk art. It is an important hereditary custom drawn from the rice culture that pervaded daily life in the countryside. The easy tunes and movements can be learned quickly for this communal practice that contributes to harmony, equality and friendship among the women dancers.
source: http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/news/news_Cu_detail.htm?No=67017&id=Cu

A Korean Mother's Memory of Chuseok

I asked a friend about the difference between Chuseok today and in the past. This is what Choi Y.S. told me:

My mother remembers when she was a young girl in the decade between 1970 and 1980, many Koreans were very poor. Her family was also not well-off so she would really look forward to Chuseok because she could then wear new clothes instead of just second-hand clothes and shoes,  eat a lot of special dishes and play with her relatives.

They came to my mother's house because her grandparents lived with her and in Korean culture, we always meet in the grandparents' home. In the old days, the public transportation system was very limited so it wasn't easy or convenient for her to meet her relatives.

She also sighs when she recalls how it wasn't possible to enjoy rice because it was such a precious and expensive commodity that only wealthy families could afford. She usually ate food made from barley and wheat but during Chuseok, she could enjoy eating rice. Nowadays, rice is something Koreans can have daily so they don't think it is something precious.

When I remarked: "Your life in the past seems very hard. Would you ever want to turn back the clock?", her answer surprised me.

*** Dear Choi, Thanks very much to you and your mum for sharing this! Am waiting for your translation of her answer!

source of pic:
http://discoverkorea.co.kr/bbs/view.php?id=news&page=2&sn1=&divpage=1&sn=off&ss=on&sc=on&select_arrange=hit&desc=asc&no=21

Songpyeon on My Pillow

Don’t be surprised to find songpyeon instead of complimentary chocolates on the pillow if you’re staying in a Korean hotel this weekend. After all, it’s Chuseok and what better way for Korean hotels to involve their foreign guests in the harvest celebrations?

I was touched by this thoughtful gesture, courtesy of Core Riveria Hotel, when I was in Jeonju a few years ago. The pretty rice cakes were sitting on a thin bed of pine leaves in a basket. Can’t recall what the filling was – was it chestnut or were red, green or mung beans used? Anyway, the charming picture the songpyeon presented gave me even more pleasure than the taste itself.

Unlike the Chinese who observe the Mid-Autumn Festival with cakes that resemble the full moon, Koreans like their songpyeon shaped like half moons. A full moon can only mean it’s waning while the half moon promises fullness and greater brightness to come. Honestly though, the songpyeon look more like tiny conch shells than half moons to me. Apparently, shapes and sizes vary from region to region – those in the south make smaller cakes while the Gangwon-do variety resemble clams.

Lee Ho -jeong writes:

Donggukseshigi, a Joseon Dynasty publication from 1849 that documented the seasonal customs of the period, states that songpyeon "uses the rice grain taken from rice straw that has been kept since the fifteenth day of the first month of the year. Some as large as the size of a hand or as small as an egg, the songpyeon are made in the shape of a half circle of jade" .The Donggukseshigi also says that songpyeon was dispensed to servants according to their age.The gifts of songpyeon were designed to increase the servant’s morale as the harvest began.

There are stories that have passed from generation to generation about the making of songpyeon.
For the unmarried, they can find a beautiful wife or a handsome husband when the songpyeon they make has a beautiful shape. An unattractive or mishapen songpyeon will result in a life spent with an ugly husband or wife. Another legend says that a pregnant woman who hoped to learn the gender of her unborn child should steam the songpyeon while placing a pine leaf or pine needle in a horizontal position within the songpyeon. If the sharp end of the needle or the pine leaf appears when the woman takes a bite from the songpyeon the child within her is a boy. If the smooth flat area appears the unborn child is a girl. "

Those who are really into making desserts and traditional cakes, check out the Rice Cake and Kitchen Utensils Museum (open Mon –Sat, 10 am – 5 pm; tel: 02 – 741 5411/4). There’s a café nearby selling a wide range of such delicacies as well. Or if you happen to be in Insadong, ask around for the rice cake stores in Nagwon-dong, Jongno-gu.

For more information and a recipe, click here.

The photo above shows Hyundae employees making songpyeon for the elderly  in a home as part of their community service. It would be interesting to know if many Korean families still follow the tradition of making songpyeon together or if they prefer to buy them ready-made at the convenience store.

For more on tteok ( rice cakes ) in general, read this.

Sources:
http://english.seoul.go.kr/gtk/news/reports_view.php?idx=1071&cPage=45 http://www.korea.net/News/news/NewsView.asp?serial_no=20061004038&part=111&SearchDaykorea.encyclopedia.co
http://www.sulyapinoy.org/feature-stories-f12/what-is-the-meaning-of-chuseok-http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/include/print.asp?newsIdx=10234
http://www.korea.net/News/News/NewsView.asp?serial_no=20080609001&part=106&SearchDay=
http://www.joonsfamily.com/lofiversion/index.php/t8572-200.html

Can KNTO use this to boost Korean tourism despite H1N1?

Some creative people in Singapore have done a hilarious version of the Wonder Girls' hit song, Nobody. In light of the many cancellations of various festivals around ROK, and the frustrations of the KNTO in trying to promote Korean tourism at this time, I'd suggest Charm Lee approach the folks behind the MrBrownShow and JYP to see if KNTO can use this in their marketing strategy!

Thanks for the tip-off, Sarah Jun! (Kpop Connection, KBS World Radio.)

What really goes on during Chuseok?

Here’s my list of questions:
1. How many young Korean adolescents are playing traditional games like ‘yut’ (a board game played by tossing sticks) instead of being glued to their Gameboys or Playstations?

2. How many Korean women and  men actually wear hanbok?

3. Do the ajummas get any help from the menfolk in preparing the food?

4. What percentage of Koreans prefer to spend their long weekends outside Korea?

5. Can urban Koreans connect emotionally with traditions of Chuseok especially as they relate to agricultural activities?

6. What are the unwritten social rules for the buying and exchanging of gifts?

7. Do Koreans of the Moslem or Christian faiths practise the Chuseok customs like charye and seongmyo?

8. How will future generations of Koreans observe Chuseok?

Sources of pics:

http://utour.goryeong.go.kr/eng/htmlpage.php?menu_code=10093http://asiandramaresource2.blogspot.com/2007/01/what-happened-in-bali.html
http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/upload/news/top(16).jpghttp://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/nation/2009/09/115_52319.html
http://www.capaa.wa.gov/community/korean_americans.shtml
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/picturegalleries/picturesoftheday/3812054/Pictures-of-the-day-17-December-2008.html?image=7

Chuseok – The best of times Part 2

Here are some reasons why Chuseok is the best of times for visitors to the ROK:

1. Ample photo opportunities as many children and ladies are dressed up in beautiful jewel tones of the hanbok.

2. If you hate city crowds, this is your chance to cruise along on public buses and you don’t have to jostle for space in the trains. The capital almost becomes a ghost-town as most Seoulites have gone back to their ancestral homes.

3. The museums and other tourist attractions usually have special concerts and activities that feature traditional games and  food during the long weekend. Still clueless about where to go and what to do? Click here.

4. It’s a great time to see Korean families in a relaxed frame of mind enjoying things together outdoors.

5. The TV stations usually broadcast special programs so you’re more likely to see your favourite Hallyu star in some game show or concert. Click here for more if you're planning to be a couch potato in Seoul.

Next posting: What I'd really like to ask about Chuseok
Pics taken at Namsangol Hanok

Chuseok - The Worst of Times, Part 1

I thought I was used to seeing traffic jams but I wasn’t prepared for the almost never-ending lines of cars that streamed out of Seoul on the eve of Chuseok. If you ever need proof that Seoul is made up of people whose roots are elsewhere in the country, look no further than this national three-day holiday, held each mid-autumn according to the traditional Chinese lunar calendar. It is a time when most Koreans return to their hometowns for family reunions and rituals to honour their ancestors.

The bus and train stations are exceptionally crowded and those with their own set of wheels are not that fortunate because they’re likely to be stuck in massive traffic jams as more than 4.2 million cars clog up the main highways leading out of the capital.

My own first experience of Chuseok was on the tour bus heading towards Seoul and I remember feeling amazed at the number of cars all making their way in the opposite direction. The bumper to bumper traffic was moving so slowly that I could even see some drivers reading newspapers, chatting on their mobile phones and even one person cutting his toenails.

Chuseok can be the worst of times to find yourselves in Seoul. You can’t go shopping, your choices of where to dine are extremely limited and even places of entertainment, like the department stores and restaurants, are closed for at least three days. On my 2003 trip to South Korea, I had forgotten that the timing coincided with this important holiday. It was very disappointing because I couldn’t show my travel companion the wonderful mazes and array of merchandise on sale at Namdaemun Market. However, it was one of the few times I was glad we were on a package tour. At least our meals were arranged by our tour guide; otherwise we would’ve have been walking around and around looking for a place to eat.

It can also be a pretty stressful time for some Koreans as well. I remember reading a local news article in English about how housewives in Korea were particularly tired out from all the food preparations they had to make for the elaborate rituals. Couples may bicker over whose side of the family to visit first to pay their respects. One emerging trend among younger Korean couples is to book a tour out of the country during this period to avoid all the hassles. Single Korean girls may have to run the gauntlet of embarrassing questions from relatives about their single status while the occasional quarrel may erupt when the festivities include too many glasses of soju. It’s a sad time for homeless Koreans as they have no family to celebrate with them.

For more information about what's closed and what's not, click here.

Source: http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/nation/2007/09/117_10804.html


Next posting: Chuseok - The best of times

SHIRI - a fish, a wish and a codename

Turning the clock back to 1999 -to celebrate the 10th anniversary of the release of SHIRI - Korea's first blockbuster and the rise of Korean films in the global arena. What a cast - Han Suk-kyu, Choi Minsik, Song Kang-ho, and Kim Yoon-jin - big names that have grown even bigger. It has action, romance, tragedy, humour, tight editing and great acting plus a song by Carol Kidd that closes the movie beautifully.

The name of the film refers to:
1. A kind of freshwater fish, native to Korea - apparently it only exists in the purest of waters so ironically can only be found in the DMZ.
2. The codename for the North Korean spy, one of the main characters in the movie
3. a wish for reunification ( not just for the divided Koreas but also for the lovers)
"Here's the official music video from the film Shiri, directed by Kang Je Gyu (Brotherhood) and starring Han Kyu-Suk (Scarlet Letter), Choi Min-Sik (OldBoy), Kang Ho-Song (JSA) and Kim Yoon-Jin (Lost)."

Thank you to bobbybulletbobson for posting on youtube.

BTW, closing scene was shot in Joongmun-dong, Seogwipo, Jeju-do

For Darcy Paquet's review, click here.
For Anthony Leong's review, click here.

Want to be a DJ for a Day on KBS World Radio?

The deadline for the KBS World Radio DJ for A Day Contest is around the corner - 4th October, 2009!

If you've ever fantasized about being a DJ for a radio show that features K-pop songs, send your ideas or theme for your own show on K-Pop Connection to kpop@kbs.co.kr ( with heading : DJ for a Day Contest)
Remember to include your phone numbers.

Here's the message from the KBS World Radio website:

Hey K-Poppers! It’s hard to believe, but KPOP Connection is turning  TWO years old on November 12th!!
Last year, KBS World Radio invited Serene from Malaysia, Steven from Malaysia/US and Paul from the US to co-host the show with Sarah Jun and Chris Dykas. It was such a success that we’ve decided to hold the “DJ for a Day” contest again! Like last year, we’ll hold a week of special shows and contests. From November 10th-12th, Young Kim and Sarah will co-host the show with one of you listeners!

So, if you would love the chance to sit down and host KPOP Connection here at our KBS studios in Seoul, Korea, enter the contest!All you have to do is email us at kpop@kbs.co.kr with your idea for a show (for example, last year Serene did a show on her top Korean film picks and songs from their OSTs, Steven did a show on Korean songs that were meaningful to him and Paul did a show on noraebang songs). Those who send in the best ideas will be brought to Korea to guest DJ for the day!"

**If a listener outside Korea is chosen, KBS World will provide airfare and accommodation**

Source http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/entertainment/enter_bbs_read.htm?No=67200

My Wish List – Andong Part 7

Here’s a list of the places I’d like to visit if I ever revisit Andong. It’s a convenient base to explore the following which are outside the city proper.

1. Bongjeong-sa

The tourist brochure claims that this temple has the oldest wooden structure in Korea in its Geungnakjeon ( Paradise Hall). Curious as well about the unique wall painting style here called dancheong. Apparently the priest who founded this temple folded a paper crane, cast it to the winds and decided to set up a new temple at the site where the crane landed.

Quaint legend aside, my main reason for wanting to visit this place is to check out Yeongsan-am, a nearby hermitage. It was part of the shooting location for a film that continues to intrigue me: “Why Did Bodhidharma Go To The East?” A climb up Cheongdeunsan (574 m), the hill behind this temple, would also be nice.

Travel Tip: Take local Bus No. 51 which runs every 1½ hours from the front of Andong City Hall to Bongjeong-sa (16 km north-west of Andong)

2. Dosan Seowon

This Confucian school is probably more famous than the Byeongsan Seowon ( see blog dated  Sept 18) and it’s reputed to be so beautiful that many film directors come here to shoot historical dramas like “Painter of the Wind”. The famous scholar, Yi Toe-gye whose face appears on the 1000-won note, established this academy in 1557. For a few hundred years, it was the most prestigious school in the land – the ancient equivalent of the SKY universities that modern Korean youths aspire to enter. Wonder if the Confucian students of the past had a more stressful time than their peers nowadays.

Travel Tip: Bus No 67 from Andong City Hall ( but do confirm with the bus driver as some don’t go all the way to the seowon. You’d need to walk the extra 2 km if that’s the case but the Lonely Planet assures readers of a pleasant jaunt.

3. Cheongnyang-san Provincial Park

Cheongnyang-san lends its name to three places actually – the mountain ( 870 m ), the provincial park, and the biggest temple here. According to the Lonely Planet, there are “ eleven other scenic peaks, eight caves and a waterfall…. The temple (sits) in a steep valley below the cliffs….The park boasts some spectacular views with tracks wandering along cliff precipices.” Sounds promising to me. I’d check into a minbak near the entrance to the park, stay overnight and explore the different trails as far as my legs and nerve will allow.

Travel Tip: The same bus ( No. 67) that goes to Dosan Seowon will continue its journey to the park entrance ( it plies this route every hour; trip takes about 1 hour and 15 mins).

4. Ginkgo tree at Yonggye-ri

Ironically this enormous tree is so close to the Jirye Art Village and yet I don’t think there’s a direct route to it. The literature claims that 14 people would be needed to encircle this tree which is 37 meters tall and has a diameter of 16 meters at its base. Like JAV, it was almost destroyed by the plans to build the Imha Dam but was successfully transplanted to its new home at the southern bank.
Travel Tip: Take Bus No 28 from Andong & get off at the Giran bus stop. After that, it looks like a loooong walk to find this tree. On second thought, hire a car.

5. Buyongdae
I first saw the high cliff of Buyongdae from a strip of sandy beach at Hahoe Village. Next time, I’d like to head straight to this place to view the village from this vantage point. A perfect time to visit would be when the villagers hold their Seonyu Julbulnori ( in October) when ropes of inflammable material are stretched across the river between Hahoe and Buyongdae for a special kind of fireworks show. There are also three buildings here to visit: Hwacheon Seowon, Ogyeonjeong-sa and Gyeomamjeong-sa.

Travel Tip: Get a car. Drive past the entrance to Hahoe Village, pass the Puncheon Agricultural Co-operative and then turn left at the Doyang three-way junction, to go across the Gwangduk-gyo ( Bridge). Follow the road that goes to the left.

For more info on bus schedules to the sights around Andong, please click here.
Source of Photos: KNTO website
Dosan Seowon http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=312772
Bongjeongsa  http://bongjeongsa2.templevill.com/intro/bojeongsa.swf
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=312775

Andong Hanji – Andong Part 6

It’s late in the day and we’re getting a little tired. But there’s one last stop on our day tour of Andong before our return to Jirye Art Village. The SUV rolls up in front of a nondescript building. It’s only when we’re taken inside that we realize we’ve been given an unexpected bonus –an inside look within  a traditional paper factory, Andong Hanji. Our sense of wonder returns as our  guide here explains to us Hanji ( paper)  is made.

The bark from mulberry bushes is processed to produce the famous Andong hanji. The inner white pulp of the bark is the most valued part. The water softened pulp can then be processed either by hand or machine. A gluey extract from the mallow plant is then used to hold the fibres together. Most impressed with women workers here who have to strip off with their bare fingers the papers which are dried almost instantly on very hot flat  ‘ironing boards’.  

The hanji, which varies considerably in thickness, colour and texture, can be used as calligraphy paper, print material for Confucian scholars, documents for official matters, coverings for walls and floors ( vegetable oil is applied for the yellow paper used on floors). The exhibition room also is a revelation – there’s an amazing range of products made from hanji, including dolls, lanterns, clothes & furniture.

Those who love gift wrapping, scrap booking or  doing paper crafts like origami, be forewarned – you can spend a long time and a lot of won at the hanji shop here! If you do have time to spare, you can take part in hands-on activities to make traditional masks, hats or books. The factory cum showroom is near the entrance of Hahoe Village so it’s worth checking out before or after your visit to the village.

Photo credits and  Links: KNTO website 
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=805345
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=309610

Hahoe Mask Museum – Andong Part 5

Autumn or fall is usually a great time to visit SK as there are many festivals celebrated in the harvest season. Unfortunately that’s not turning out to be the case this year. Call them party poopers or responsible leaders but the Korean officials or organizers don’t seem to be taking any chances and have been cancelling festivals, no thanks to the H1N1 scare. The latest victim of this trend in 2009 is the International Mask Dance Festival which Andong hosts each October.

The people of Hahoe are probably the most disappointed as their village is home to Major Intangible Cultural Asset No. 69: Hahoe Byeolsingut Talnori ( masked play). It has many functions: to entertain, appease the gods, pray for good harvests, exorcise evil spirits and to mock corrupt officials. Even if there aren’t many tourists to entertain this time, perhaps the masked performers could still perform the talnori to pray that the H1N1 scare will die down rapidly. Or it could satirize the tug of war between KNTO whose efforts to draw more tourists to Korea have been frustrated by the government which has been cancelling one festival after another.

If you’re determined to visit Andong this fall, you can find some consolation in the the Hahoe Mask Museum ( Hahoe-domg Tal). Its quite comprehensive collection has masks from around the world include fierce visages from Papua New Guinea, earthy ones from the African continent and ornately decorated ones from Venice. At least you can see here the wide range of Korean masks used in their folk dances and drama. You can also buy reproductions of masks at the museum gift shop. More explanatory notes in English would’ve been good but I guess the curators preferred to let the masks do the talking.

Source: KNTO webpage http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/GK/cms_list_3157.jsp?cid=682664

Fun & Games at Hahoe Maeul, Andong – Part 4

A dramatic avenue flanked on both sides by tall ginkgo trees leads from the parking lot to the village. There are more ginkgo trees with impressive heights within the village and in autumn they are a splendid sight. More busy taking photos of these than of the houses or other attractions in the village.

However, can’t resist taking a few shots at the Minsok-nori Park which has the highest swing I’ve ever seen. Certainly not something for toddlers and even high enough to give some ajummas vertigo.

Traditional games in Korea seem to favour the bold and the athletic. Even the see-saw here seems to be more a game for adults.

On the side facing the Buyongdae cliff, there’s a lovely stretch of sandy beach with a thin strip of pine trees as wind-breaker. There’s a special tradition called “Seonyu julbulnori” held every October here. A long knotted rope is hung across the river between the cliff and the beach and at intervals, some spectacular fireworks within each knot are ignited. At least, that’s what I think the notes in my tourist brochure means. Here’s the verbatim extract:

“It is a fire game to explode the fire at every knot. When fire knot in between Mansongjeong and Buyongdae in Hahoe maeul across the river is tied and lit, fire is exploded at every knot and fire on knots fall down and is co-ordinated with egg fire that creates magnificent view.” Go figure.

Link to video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-lB-0fFyto

Hahoe Maeul, Andong – Part 3

One can understand why Queen Elizabeth and millions of others have visited this place. 24 km west of Andong, Hahoe Village is nestled within the snug embrace of the Nakdong-gang (river), hence its name which means “Stream Winds”. Surrounded by the river on three sides, it’s the ideal place for agricultural activity unless the water levels rise suddenly. Wonder if the good people of Hahoe ever have the problem of flooding in summer.

In fact, the river and mountains that encircle the village have protected it from possible invasions. Hahoe is also special as a living traditional village; unlike the Korean Folk Village near Seoul which is a mere reproduction, Hahoe Maeul is the real deal. It’s more than 600 years old, has about 130 traditional houses here and many buildings are kept as they were during the Joseon Dynasty. The architecture of these houses belonging to aristocrats or farmers is all the more interesting because it’s a living open-air museum with 176 families still living and working there.

There are many minbaks offering homestay here so it’s a great place to stay a few days to soak in the rustic scenes and slow pace of life. Then you would have ample time to look over the low stone walls into the neighbouring houses which are still occupied – perhaps by some descendant of the Ryu clan that presides over this small community.

Links & credits:
http://www.tourandong.com/english/coding/sub1/sub1.asp

Snail Restroom in Andong – Part 2

On our second day at Jirye Art Village, we clamber into Mr Kim’s seven- seater SUV  and head off towards a handsome Confucian Academy ( seowon). There are two seowons in the outlying area near Andong.

Dosan Seowon, about 28 km north of Andong is the more famous school as those who aspired to become high officials in the government would study here and the entrance exams for would-be civil servants were held here. It also happens to be a favourite location for outdoor scenes for TV dramas like Painter of the Wind.

However, today, we’re visiting the other seowon, Byeongsan Seowon, west of Andong and just beside the river. The elevated pavilion, Mandae-ru, that overlooks the broad river is quite large and has impressive beams and columns.

The spaces between the smooth columns look like some folding screen – each with a slightly different scene. How on earth did the ancient scholars manage to concentrate on their studies with so much distracting beauty outdoors?

The steps leading up to this study pavilion are carved out of single logs without benefit of handrails so visitors with unsteady legs or a poor sense of balance may need a helping hand.

Check out the Dalpaeng-i Duitgan(snail restroom) - It's traditional hwajangshil which is  a curious snail shaped structure made of mud-stone walls with a curved entrance and passageway instead of the usual door. In other seowons, such restrooms were built from bamboo trees so luckily there's one at least made of longer-lasting stuff. It's also important enough to be ranked as historical monument No 206. Would enter  to see what the end looks like but not sure if someone is using it at the moment.

Links & sources of pics: http://www.byeongsan.net/english/sub1/sub2.asp
http://www.tourandong.com/english/coding/main.asp
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=313046