Ajumma's Journal
Sunday, November 8, 2009
Which K bloggers have appeared on KBS World Radio?
Who's Among the Lions?
What I Wished I Knew About Hwaeomsa Before I Went There, Part 4
If you walk behind Gakhwangjeon Hall and climb up 108 steps to reach the Terrace of Filial Piety, you’ll find a clearing with camellia trees and National Treasure No 35. The Four Lions Three-Storey Stone Pagoda is also the oldest relic in Hwaeomsa (temple), supposedly erected in the 8th century by Yon-gi.
This stone sculpture is noteworthy for a few reasons. Each face of the lower base has relief carvings of heavenly musicians on the lute, harp or mouth organ and dancers. Above them stand four lions on stone lotuses. It was the first time lions were used as part of the design. These symbolise the power of Buddha and if you look carefully at the expressions of each creature, you may discover that the mouths get wider and wider as you walk clockwise around the pagoda.
Right in the centre, among the lions, there’s a sculpture of a human figure – but its identity remains obscure. Is it a statue of a priest or a nun or even the mother of Yon-gi, the founder of the temple?
A stone lantern opposite this pagoda has another stone figure with one knee bent as if making an offering ( a cup of tea, perhaps) or is it supposed to represent Yongi honouring his mother?
Either way, it’s a peaceful spot to soak in the atmosphere, enjoy a little picnic, reflect on filial piety or just be thankful for all the great moms out there.
Sources:
http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/cms/resource/01/707401_image2_1.jpg
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Korea-Gurye-Hwaeomsa_5009-06.JPG
http://english.gurye.go.kr/english/jirisan/valleys.html
http://media.graniteschools.org/Curriculum/korea/hwaomsa.htmh
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Pyzf11LwE6fMD4R6o3boqQ
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/User:Waygugin/Sandbox
http://san-shin.net/Jiri-Hwaeom-1.html
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=822435
Friday, November 6, 2009
Which Korean Is Singing In Carnegie Hall Again?
Kim In-Soon, otherwise known as Insooni, has had her fair share of hard times. As the child of a Korean and African-American, and raised by her mother single-handedly, it wasn't easy to overcome prejudice and discrimination.
Still, the battle against other kinds of prejudice remains. Apparently she can't sing in the top-end cultural hall of Seoul because her brand of fusion music isn't high-brow enough. Yet she's performed in Carnegie Hall and has been invited to do so again.
One can only hope the elitism that holds some Koreans back from being able to contribute to their country and global culture will be a thing of the past soon.
Click here for another inspiring song by Korea's great RnB singer.
source:
http://www.internationalreportingproject.org/fellows-editors/blog_detail/1175/
Dear Bloggers in Korea, Can I Get Some Foliage Reports?
Is global warming quickening the extinction of Maple Korea? Am confused and worried.
On November 2, KBS reported that the first cold wave alert was issued for certain parts of the country. It looked as if an early winter has descended on Korea. The following day, I read this:
"The Korea Meteorological Administration (KMA) forecasts warmer weather than years past, with mild temperatures continuing through early December."
What gives? Are autumns in Korea getting shorter and shorter? A friend who's in Japan told me that the leaves are just turning brown before they drop off while in other places, trees are already bare. As a tourist from a non-temperate country and who loves going to see the autumn foliage in Korea's many national parks, the prospect is ALARMING.
Would really appreciate it if any blogger who lives in Korea can let me know if the maple foliage is still enjoying a fairly long shelf-life.
Credit: Yonhap News
The glorious picture of autumn above was featured on the 27th October this year. Then on the 2nd November, KBS features the scene below. Both shots were taken in Gangwondo.
Credit: Yonhap News
On November 2, KBS reported that the first cold wave alert was issued for certain parts of the country. It looked as if an early winter has descended on Korea. The following day, I read this:
"The Korea Meteorological Administration (KMA) forecasts warmer weather than years past, with mild temperatures continuing through early December."
What gives? Are autumns in Korea getting shorter and shorter? A friend who's in Japan told me that the leaves are just turning brown before they drop off while in other places, trees are already bare. As a tourist from a non-temperate country and who loves going to see the autumn foliage in Korea's many national parks, the prospect is ALARMING.
Would really appreciate it if any blogger who lives in Korea can let me know if the maple foliage is still enjoying a fairly long shelf-life.
Thursday, November 5, 2009
The Great Stone Lantern of Hwaeomsa
Hwaeomsa in Jirisan National Park supposedly has the highest stone lantern of its kind in the world. Standing at 6.4m, it was the largest stone lantern of its kind ( before the 1960s). It's National Treasure No. 12. Most stone lanterns have an octogonal-shaped column but this one is fashioned after an hour-glass, a popular style during the Shilla Dynasty.
Stone lanterns have a symbolic function - representing the path to enlightenment but they may have also been used in earlier days to provide some light to monks making their way in the pre-dawn darkness to the main hall, Gakhwangjeon, for early chanting sessions. I'd like to think they still place a candle within it on special days at least instead of simply using electricity. The temple grounds here apparently are a sight to behold when they celebrate Buddha's birthday with a lantern festival.
Ironically, I picked a bad time to be virtuous and to watch how I spent my won when I went to the gift shop at Hwaeomsa. Shouldn't have curbed the inclination to splurge on a pretty gold-plated book mark shaped after the famous stone lantern here.
Sources:
http://www.ocp.go.kr:9000/ne_dasencgi/full.cgi?v_kw_str=&v_db_query=A4%3A36&v_db=2&v_doc_no=00000012&v_dblist=2&v_start_num=1&v_disp_type=4
http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264128
http://www.san-shin.net/Jiri-Hwaeom-1.html
http://www.heritage.go.kr/eng/tou/tou_the_11_sce.jsp
Wednesday, November 4, 2009
It's the Biggest, It's Wooden, It's Buddhist: It's Gakhwangjeon
What I Wished I Knew About Hwaeomsa Before I Went There, Part 2
Gakhwanjeon Hall in Hwaeomsa ( temple) is one of the largest Buddhist structures made of wood in Korea. Built to replace a similar structure which was razed to the ground during the Japanese invasion , its reconstruction was completed in 1703. Its stone base, dating back to the Shilla Dynasty, was intended for another hall. Look out for the triangular stone railings which are typical of the period.
Gakhwangjeon Hall ( Hall of the Enlightened Lord); National Treasure No 67
Gakhwanjeon Hall in Hwaeomsa ( temple) is one of the largest Buddhist structures made of wood in Korea. Built to replace a similar structure which was razed to the ground during the Japanese invasion , its reconstruction was completed in 1703. Its stone base, dating back to the Shilla Dynasty, was intended for another hall. Look out for the triangular stone railings which are typical of the period.
Photo: Byunggu Yu
From outside, it looks like a two –storey building but as you enter, you find yourself in a single large hall with a very high, panelled ceiling. The dimensions are apparently quite unusual for Korean temple buildings.
A single window high up on one wall on the supposed second floor, allows light to stream in to light up the faces of the seven large gold statues of Buddha and bodhisattvas on the altar.
Behind them hangs a tapestry which was painted in 1860 and kept there to express hope for the longevity of the royal family.
If you look below the statues, you may be able to spot some fragments of the entire Avatamsaka Sutra that was carved on granite plates on the walls. Sadly, most of them were destroyed during the Imjun Wars.
sources:
Tuesday, November 3, 2009
What I Wished I Knew About Hwaeomsa Before I Went There, Part 1
Part 1 – The Many Benefactors of Hwaeomsa
For some reason, I don’t have the patience to stand and read the explanatory boards on site at places of interest. A great pity because I would have paid more attention to certain features while I was there. But now, in digging up more info for this blog and in retracing my steps, it’s like I’m revisiting South Korea again and hopefully this time, with a better appreciation of things.
Of course I knew Hwaeomsa was an important temple in the country but I didn’t realise how important it was. If I had done my homework before my 2005 trip, I would’ve learnt that royal families from the Goryeo to the Shilla and even the anti-Buddhist Joseon Dynasties had all supported this temple in more ways than just financially. This special patronage across the centuries can probably be traced back to the ancient pre-Buddhist belief that Jirisan was one of the five sacred mountains in the land. ( The others were: Taebaeksan in the north, Gyeryeongsan in the west, Tohamsan in the east and Buaksan in the centre)These sites of shamanistic rituals continued to be revered as homes of bodhisattvas when Buddhism spread throughout the country.
I wished I had read up earlier on Korean history, in particular, the sad episode when the Japanese invaded the country in the 16th century. I’d have appreciated better the legend about the invaders failed to cart off the temple bell of Hwaeomsa when the boat carrying it sank into the Seomjingang. I would’ve been able to do a mental connect-the-dots between the monks-turned-soldiers of Hwaeomsa with those who also traded prayer –beads for weapons in Jinju during the Imjin Wars. I’d have paid more attention to the name of Yunul or Ja Woon, the monk who became an officer under Admiral Lee Sun-sin and suggested to the great naval commander a new design for a battleship. This was the “first ironclad ship in world naval history” and it helped the Korean navy gain victory at sea.
Even after royal interest in Hwaeomsa began to fade during the latter part of the Joseon Dynasty with the rise of the Neo-Confucianists, funds for the temple continued, courtesy of the noblemen ( yangban) and even ordinary citizens. Of course, when poor farmers and humble ajummas became its main benefactors, the reconstruction plans for Hwaeomsa could not progress at the same pace as before. When it finally picked up again in the period between 1699 and 1703, again it depended on the royalty.
There is a charming story about how funds for the rebuilding of Jangnyukjoen Hall in Hwaeomsa came about:
“ Gyepa Seongneung, who, after being appointed by Byeogam to rebuild Jangnyukjeon Hall, was at a loss about how to get the resources to carry out his master's wishes. The monk prayed night after night, hoping Buddha would provide him the answer, when suddenly an old man appeared before him in a vision telling Gyepa not to despair. The old man commanded, ‘Go out to beg tomorrow and ask the first person you see to help you. Then you will have all you need.’
Following his instructions, the next morning Gyepa quietly left the temple grounds to go begging and soon came across a penniless old beggar woman. Gyepa was at a loss, but nevertheless, asked the woman for a donation. Dumbfounded by his request, the old woman listened intently to Gyepa explain his vision to her. Moved to tears, she vowed that upon her death, she would be reborn into the royal house and use her power to restore Hwaeomsa. She then threw herself into a nearby swamp and drowned.
Many years later in the capital, Gyepa was still begging for the money to rebuild Jangnyukjeon Hall when he came across the young daughter of the king, on an outing from the palace with her nurse. Though she had never met the monk, the princess was very excited to see him. She pleaded with him for his help as the princess had been born unable to open one of her hands.
Gyepa took her hand and inexplicably it opened for the first time ever. On the palm of her newly opened hand were the characters for Jangnyukjeon. Upon hearing the good news, King Sukjong called the priest to the palace and eager to hear his story. So touched was the king, that he pledged the necessary money to rebuild Jangnyukjeon Hall.”
sources:
http://english.yi-sunsin.com/03ship/02_01.jsp
http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/cms/resource/01/707401_image2_1.jp
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Korea-Gurye-Hwaeomsa_5009-06.JP
http://english.gurye.go.kr/english/jirisan/valleys.html
http://media.graniteschools.org/Curriculum/korea/hwaomsa.htmh
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Pyzf11LwE6fMD4R6o3boqQ
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/User:Waygugin/Sandbox
http://san-shin.net/Jiri-Hwaeom-1.html
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=822435
For some reason, I don’t have the patience to stand and read the explanatory boards on site at places of interest. A great pity because I would have paid more attention to certain features while I was there. But now, in digging up more info for this blog and in retracing my steps, it’s like I’m revisiting South Korea again and hopefully this time, with a better appreciation of things.
Of course I knew Hwaeomsa was an important temple in the country but I didn’t realise how important it was. If I had done my homework before my 2005 trip, I would’ve learnt that royal families from the Goryeo to the Shilla and even the anti-Buddhist Joseon Dynasties had all supported this temple in more ways than just financially. This special patronage across the centuries can probably be traced back to the ancient pre-Buddhist belief that Jirisan was one of the five sacred mountains in the land. ( The others were: Taebaeksan in the north, Gyeryeongsan in the west, Tohamsan in the east and Buaksan in the centre)These sites of shamanistic rituals continued to be revered as homes of bodhisattvas when Buddhism spread throughout the country.
I wished I had read up earlier on Korean history, in particular, the sad episode when the Japanese invaded the country in the 16th century. I’d have appreciated better the legend about the invaders failed to cart off the temple bell of Hwaeomsa when the boat carrying it sank into the Seomjingang. I would’ve been able to do a mental connect-the-dots between the monks-turned-soldiers of Hwaeomsa with those who also traded prayer –beads for weapons in Jinju during the Imjin Wars. I’d have paid more attention to the name of Yunul or Ja Woon, the monk who became an officer under Admiral Lee Sun-sin and suggested to the great naval commander a new design for a battleship. This was the “first ironclad ship in world naval history” and it helped the Korean navy gain victory at sea.
Even after royal interest in Hwaeomsa began to fade during the latter part of the Joseon Dynasty with the rise of the Neo-Confucianists, funds for the temple continued, courtesy of the noblemen ( yangban) and even ordinary citizens. Of course, when poor farmers and humble ajummas became its main benefactors, the reconstruction plans for Hwaeomsa could not progress at the same pace as before. When it finally picked up again in the period between 1699 and 1703, again it depended on the royalty.
There is a charming story about how funds for the rebuilding of Jangnyukjoen Hall in Hwaeomsa came about:
“ Gyepa Seongneung, who, after being appointed by Byeogam to rebuild Jangnyukjeon Hall, was at a loss about how to get the resources to carry out his master's wishes. The monk prayed night after night, hoping Buddha would provide him the answer, when suddenly an old man appeared before him in a vision telling Gyepa not to despair. The old man commanded, ‘Go out to beg tomorrow and ask the first person you see to help you. Then you will have all you need.’
Following his instructions, the next morning Gyepa quietly left the temple grounds to go begging and soon came across a penniless old beggar woman. Gyepa was at a loss, but nevertheless, asked the woman for a donation. Dumbfounded by his request, the old woman listened intently to Gyepa explain his vision to her. Moved to tears, she vowed that upon her death, she would be reborn into the royal house and use her power to restore Hwaeomsa. She then threw herself into a nearby swamp and drowned.
Many years later in the capital, Gyepa was still begging for the money to rebuild Jangnyukjeon Hall when he came across the young daughter of the king, on an outing from the palace with her nurse. Though she had never met the monk, the princess was very excited to see him. She pleaded with him for his help as the princess had been born unable to open one of her hands.
Gyepa took her hand and inexplicably it opened for the first time ever. On the palm of her newly opened hand were the characters for Jangnyukjeon. Upon hearing the good news, King Sukjong called the priest to the palace and eager to hear his story. So touched was the king, that he pledged the necessary money to rebuild Jangnyukjeon Hall.”
sources:
http://english.yi-sunsin.com/03ship/02_01.jsp
http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/cms/resource/01/707401_image2_1.jp
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Korea-Gurye-Hwaeomsa_5009-06.JP
http://english.gurye.go.kr/english/jirisan/valleys.html
http://media.graniteschools.org/Curriculum/korea/hwaomsa.htmh
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Pyzf11LwE6fMD4R6o3boqQ
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/User:Waygugin/Sandbox
http://san-shin.net/Jiri-Hwaeom-1.html
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=822435
Monday, November 2, 2009
Bloggers Go to Camp - The Blog Korea! Visit Korea! Camp
Am trying very hard to suppress my feelings of envy but congratulations to you all, anyway.
From the all pics on the website, it looks like KNTO played the generous host again and you all had a great time. What puzzles me is that I haven't seen many postings about the experience. Have I been missing more than the camp or looking in the wrong places?
Yours VERY wistfully,
ajumma
Click here if you were one of the semi-finalists who couldn't make it to Korea ( such as yours truly) to join this fortunate bunch of bloggers and if you're masochistic.
Sunday, November 1, 2009
Gamsa-hamnida to Three Gentlemen in Gurye
To Three Gentlemen in Gurye,
My visit to Piagol Valley remains a heart-warming memory because of my good fortune in meeting you. There I was cursing my own absent-mindedness in forgetting to change into sneakers and there you were, three retired school principals out for a day’s walk. You invited me to join you for a picnic on the rocks of a partially dry stream near a footbridge. It was a modest and odd meal of sorts: persimmons, mandarins, grape juice and some local brew ( I think you said it was maekkolli) and cream cheese crackers as my own contribution.
I was impressed when you cleared away the remains of our picnic and even more so by the fast pace you kept up as we continued our walk, despite your claim to various health problems. Truth is, although you were older, you were much fitter and more sure-footed. I was sorry that I couldn’t match your stride and didn’t have the nerve to make the effort as I was more worried about slipping and twisting my ankle. So I turned back regretfully before I could reach Piagol Valley. Despite your encouragement and patience, I wasn’t prepared to impose on you and disgrace myself any further by holding you back with my city-slicker crawl.
I felt very much like a wimp and tried to console myself by going down to the river’s edge to sit Zen-like on the rocks and soak up the autumn sunshine and enjoy the water’s gurgling. On my way out later, I paused for a snack of odeng (fishcakes on a stick) when lo and behold, there you were again, back from your walk. Again, you invited me for a light lunch of acorn jelly salad and soju. Lucky for me, I had seen enough Korean TV dramas to remember the custom of filling your glasses as the youngest member at the table.
One of you, Mr Lee, seemed to be the apparent leader of the group. Whether it was because of your seniority or position or because you were the driver for the day but you insisted on playing tour guide and suddenly I found myself bundled into your spacious car and off to visit Yeongoksa ( temple).
I tried to show my appreciation by paying more attention than I usually do to the relics and explanatory boards there. After that, you had to take a short siesta ( another exemplary and reaassuring thing I noted!) before you took to the wheel again while the rest of us could enjoy at leisure good views of one small section of Jirisan National Park.
I wasn’t sure when you decided that you were going to drive me back to the bus terminal at Gurye where I had left my bag before taking me to Hwaeomsa, my original destination for the day. Neither you nor your companions seemed to mind the detour the least bit – was it innate chivalry, a welcome opportunity to share and show off your hometown to a tourist or were you bored and enjoyed this diversion? It wasn’t exactly a short drive and you even pointed out to me casually the blue roof of your home which we passed on the way to Gurye. The lights of the afternoon sun reflected off the river on our left and I could see lone anglers here and there in the water, waiting patiently for their catch. I didn’t think though that their patience matched yours or perhaps patience is a local trait.
Anyway, I was a bit puzzled at first when you passed me your hat just before your car approached the ticket booth at the entrance to Hwaeomsa. Perhaps you didn’t want the hassle of pausing to pay the entrance fee for the tourist or if you just wanted me to enjoy the same privilege as the locals. But it was amusing, being part of this subterfuge as if we were school kids sneaking past the ticket booth of a cinema.
Again, you played tour guide at the temple before finally dropping me off at the tourist village just outside Hwaeomsa as the evening shadows lengthened. I think you even told the ajummas running a yeogwan to take care of me if I needed help. I bowed as deeply as I could without toppling over while repeating “Gamsa-hamnida” as you waved goodbye in a matter-of-fact way.
So once again, Chong-mal Gamsa-hamnida for a wonderful and memorable day. Even though I didn’t get to see the blood-red maples of Piagol, I consider myself lucky to have experienced your amazing hospitality.
Warmest wishes,
Ajumma
sources:
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Makkeolli
My visit to Piagol Valley remains a heart-warming memory because of my good fortune in meeting you. There I was cursing my own absent-mindedness in forgetting to change into sneakers and there you were, three retired school principals out for a day’s walk. You invited me to join you for a picnic on the rocks of a partially dry stream near a footbridge. It was a modest and odd meal of sorts: persimmons, mandarins, grape juice and some local brew ( I think you said it was maekkolli) and cream cheese crackers as my own contribution.
I was impressed when you cleared away the remains of our picnic and even more so by the fast pace you kept up as we continued our walk, despite your claim to various health problems. Truth is, although you were older, you were much fitter and more sure-footed. I was sorry that I couldn’t match your stride and didn’t have the nerve to make the effort as I was more worried about slipping and twisting my ankle. So I turned back regretfully before I could reach Piagol Valley. Despite your encouragement and patience, I wasn’t prepared to impose on you and disgrace myself any further by holding you back with my city-slicker crawl.
One of you, Mr Lee, seemed to be the apparent leader of the group. Whether it was because of your seniority or position or because you were the driver for the day but you insisted on playing tour guide and suddenly I found myself bundled into your spacious car and off to visit Yeongoksa ( temple).
I tried to show my appreciation by paying more attention than I usually do to the relics and explanatory boards there. After that, you had to take a short siesta ( another exemplary and reaassuring thing I noted!) before you took to the wheel again while the rest of us could enjoy at leisure good views of one small section of Jirisan National Park.
I wasn’t sure when you decided that you were going to drive me back to the bus terminal at Gurye where I had left my bag before taking me to Hwaeomsa, my original destination for the day. Neither you nor your companions seemed to mind the detour the least bit – was it innate chivalry, a welcome opportunity to share and show off your hometown to a tourist or were you bored and enjoyed this diversion? It wasn’t exactly a short drive and you even pointed out to me casually the blue roof of your home which we passed on the way to Gurye. The lights of the afternoon sun reflected off the river on our left and I could see lone anglers here and there in the water, waiting patiently for their catch. I didn’t think though that their patience matched yours or perhaps patience is a local trait.
Anyway, I was a bit puzzled at first when you passed me your hat just before your car approached the ticket booth at the entrance to Hwaeomsa. Perhaps you didn’t want the hassle of pausing to pay the entrance fee for the tourist or if you just wanted me to enjoy the same privilege as the locals. But it was amusing, being part of this subterfuge as if we were school kids sneaking past the ticket booth of a cinema.
Again, you played tour guide at the temple before finally dropping me off at the tourist village just outside Hwaeomsa as the evening shadows lengthened. I think you even told the ajummas running a yeogwan to take care of me if I needed help. I bowed as deeply as I could without toppling over while repeating “Gamsa-hamnida” as you waved goodbye in a matter-of-fact way.
So once again, Chong-mal Gamsa-hamnida for a wonderful and memorable day. Even though I didn’t get to see the blood-red maples of Piagol, I consider myself lucky to have experienced your amazing hospitality.
Warmest wishes,
Ajumma
sources:
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Makkeolli
Friday, October 30, 2009
We Interrupt Normal Postings for Some Autumn Leaves
HAPPY AUTUMN, EVERYONE!
Sources:
from my collection of maple leaves picked up from the grounds of various national parks in Korea
Thursday, October 29, 2009
Thank you note to a Gurye Bus Driver
I was on your bus, making my way from Suncheon to Hwaeomsa in the autumn of 2005. Can’t remember how we started chatting ( as far as THAT was possible, given my very limited Korean). Still, I somehow figured out you were suggesting that I go to the Piagol Valley first. You showed me exactly which bus to take when we reached the Gurye Bus Terminal and you even arranged for my bag to be kept safely at a sikdang (eatery) within the station while I went off in pursuit of maple leaves the colour of blood.
Thanks as well for the recommendation to visit Piagol. The funny thing is I was so excited about your idea and so bowled over by your chivalrous gesture that I forgot to change from my oxfords to sneakers. So unfortunately when I got to Piagol, I wasn’t able to walk as far as I would’ve liked. Still, I had a great day there because if I hadn't been so slow, I probably wouldn't have met other great gentlemen who helped me as well. But that's a story for tomorrow.
Sincerely,
Ajumma
source:
http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/art/2009/10/203_11291.html
http://chinese.visitkorea.or.kr/chs/SI/SI_CHG_2_11.jsp?cid=806545
http://efestival.yonhapnews.co.kr/efestival/v/index.jsp?
Wednesday, October 28, 2009
Getting There, Getting Around, Putting Up & Eating Out in Jirisan
Visitors can choose to make Gurye their base for exploring different trails in Jirisan – there are a number of places to stay that cater to different budgets. I preferred to stay out of town – there are usually rooms available in minbaks or yeogwans before the start of hiking trails or where the main temples are situated. If you’re a serious climber, make reservations ahead of time for a sleeping bunk in one of its mountain shelters or a spot to pitch your tent on the camping sites. If you want to pamper yourself, check out the hot springs laden with germanium at Spa Land ( Jirisan Eun-cheon) where you can watch the snowflakes fall while soaking in an open-air hot spring during winter.
In 2005, I paid 20,000 won to stay in a simple yeogwan in the tourist village about one kilometer outside Hwaeomsa. It had two plus points - great views especially in the evening and a little kitchen where I could cook instant noodles for an early breakfast before the sikdangs opened. Its drawbacks? Had to trek to a long corridor to the back of the two-storey building to get to my room The water in the bathroom was tepid so I had to boil water and lug potful after potful of hot water to pour into my bath basin. Followed the recommendation of the Lonely Planet and went to the Ttukbaegi Sikdang nearby. True, it had “generous and tasty side dishes” but alas, no free bindaettok ( pancake).
When I visited Korea in the spirng of 2007, the tourist village outside Ssanggyesa was packed with local tourists who were out in full force to see the cherry blossoms so I had to fork out 30,000 won for a small room above a convenience store. The enterprising family ran both yeogwan and shop. There were a number of restaurants but I preferred to pack a picnic lunch of gimbap , fruits and chocolate bars to savour after a few solid hours of walking.
sources:
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=617752http://jiri.knps.or.kr/Jirisan_eng/trans/transport.html
http://www.temf.co.kr/jirisan/eng/company/comLocation.asp
http://tour.hadong.go.kr/english/main.htm
Tuesday, October 27, 2009
A Park for all Seasons – Introduction to Jirisan National Park
One can keep revisiting Jirisan and yet not go back to the same spots as there are so many places to explore during the different seasons.
In the spring of 2007, I was fortunate enough to be stuck in a traffic jam from Hadong to Ssanggyesa in the south-eastern corner of Jirisan. The 6 km road lined with cherry trees is a wonder to behold during spring. If you’re really into spring flowers, you can also check out Sangwi Village, a.k.a. Ssansuyu Village which is full of bushes with tiny yellow flowers. I was content to do a long ( by my very humble standards) walk in one tiny corner of Jirisan when I follow a trail past Ssanggyesa, Hadaong to find the Bulilpokpo ( Falls).
However, if you enjoy waterfalls, it’s better to go in summer when there’s more rainfall and more action going on in rivers and falls. The Surak waterfall, 6 km from the hot spring resort, is at its best during the hot season and if you go there, let me know if there’s any truth to the claim in the brochure that its water is like “silver powder from the skies”. Summertime’s great as well for those who enjoy fishing and white-water rafting on the Sumjingang.
Two years before, my original plan to go directly from Suncheon to Hwaeomsa via Gurye was altered slightly at the suggestion of a friendly bus-driver to do a day-tour of Piagol Valley. I’d almost forgotten the recommendation I’d read earlier in one KNTO travel guide: “The twelve kilometers of Baemsagol Valley are famous for the autumnal leaves contrasting with deep blue ponds, and that of Piagol Valley is said to be as red as blood.” How could I resist such a promise of Gothic proportions?
Although Jirisan isn’t the place for skiing or to relive one’s Winter Sonata fantasies ( you can do both at Yongpyong Resort), it still gets some snow. So, if you like hiking with the crisp crunch of freshly fallen snow beneath your feet, you can try some of the trails in Jirisan National Park which may still be open during winter. Check with the local National Parks office.
One fantasy of mine is to live here for one year to check out the top ten scenic spots ( as voted by the Jirisan Mountains Alpine Association). They are, arranged here, according to what I’d like to see for each season:
1. The royal azaleas at Seseok in spring
6. The Chilsun or Chilseon Valley – in summer
8. The full moon seen from Byukso
9. The Banya sunset
Source:
1. http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264283
2. http://jiri.knps.or.kr/eng/
Monday, October 26, 2009
Climbing, Culture and Cuisine - Jirisan, Part 1
Seasoned climbers like to do the ridge course which may include reaching peaks in the west like Nogodan ( 1507 m) and going along the ridge eastwards all the way to Cheonwangbong ( 1915. 4 m), the second-highest peak in ROK, after Hallasan in Jeju. You need at least three or four days to complete this course at a leisurely pace though theoretically it can be done within 24 hours if you don’t stop to pee, eat or take photos. Others with less ambition, stamina and time such as yours truly can be content to amble along the foothills to admire the many beautiful valleys, waterfalls, temples and hermitages that dot the area. There are numerous trails for day-trips and the Lonely Planet recommends getting the Jirisan National Park map produced by the National Parks if you plan on doing a few of these hikes.
Jirisan is also significant for all the ancient religions practised in the country. Those who still follow shamanistic rites hold sacrificial rites here. Taoists believe that Jirisan is home to its great immortals while Buddhists still make pilgrimages to visit places believed to be occupied by bodhisattvas. Besides temples and hermitages of historic and cultural importance, there are also villages to explore such as Chonghakdong which maintains Confucian traditions; Shimwon, dubbed to my amusement, “First Village Under the Sky” and Sangwi which celebrates with a festival in spring the blooming of golden Japanese dogwood or ssansuyu ( Cornusofficinalis).
Last but not least, Jirisan has a reputation of having one of the cleanest environments in the country so the quality of the food here is said to be very good. You can sample the sweet fish which thrive in the unpolluted waters of the Sumjingang, for instance. Or if you fancy indulging like a Joseon emperor but still have to eat healthily, try the Hanjeongsik ( traditional banquet meal) available in many restaurants here as many local herbs from the hillsides are used. Local pork and crab dishes are also well-known here.
http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/cms/resource/01/707401_image2_1.jpg
http://english.gurye.go.kr/english/jirisan/valleys.html
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=822435
http://jiri.knps.or.kr/eng/intro/guidence.html
http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/spa/TR/TR_SP_3_3.jsp?cid=310643
Sunday, October 25, 2009
The Meeting With Lee Min-ho That Wasn't
Fans on the other side of the Causeway who had heard about the cancellation in Singapore could breathe a sigh of relief that a similar event in a much smaller venue in Sungai Wang Plaza wasn't axed as well.
For all those who want to see much ado about Min-ho in Singapore, click here.
Source:
http://www.allkpop.com/index.php/full_story/lee_minhos_hectic_day_in_singapore/
Friday, October 23, 2009
How Many Types of Kimchi Are There?
The three-day “Kimchi Love Festival 2009” has opened at Gyeonghui Palace and the Seoul Museum of History. Didn't realise that there are at least 192 different kinds of kimchi; at least that's the number on display at the Festival. Wonder how this one managed to avoid getting cancelled when others have been axed because of the H1N1 scare.
It'll be interesting to see how the Koreans can make kimchi part of global cuisine. When it comes to food, I'm not sure if people like certain things because they think it's good for their health, their complexion or prevent them from contracting avian flu and so on. It may not be love at first bite or smell for many non-Koreans.
Indeed, my travel companion and I still have vivid memories of the strong smell of left-over kimchi emanating from one ajumma's kitchen of one yeogwan while we were standing at the door, waiting to get some hot water. The odour was particularly pronounced that winter's day and my friend beat a hasty retreat to our room, leaving me to wait for the water with the heavy smell of pickled anchovies in the cold air.
But I've come to love kimchi especially when it's in the form of kimchi tchigae (stew). It's also great as the main ingredient as fried rice and surprise! Left-over kimchi with beancurd and chicken cubes is OK too with cooked oats. One of the most delicious dishes with kimchi I enjoyed was when I spent the night on the floor of the living quarters with the ajumma who takes care of the temple at Mai-san. It was a dish of simple stir-fried chopped-up kimchi with a pinch of sugar and ground dried anchovies. Heaven.
Excuse me while I go to the supermarket. I hear the kimchi calling my name.
source:
http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/news/news_Dm_detail.htm?No=67587
http://www.trifood.com/kimchichigae.html
Indeed, my travel companion and I still have vivid memories of the strong smell of left-over kimchi emanating from one ajumma's kitchen of one yeogwan while we were standing at the door, waiting to get some hot water. The odour was particularly pronounced that winter's day and my friend beat a hasty retreat to our room, leaving me to wait for the water with the heavy smell of pickled anchovies in the cold air.
But I've come to love kimchi especially when it's in the form of kimchi tchigae (stew). It's also great as the main ingredient as fried rice and surprise! Left-over kimchi with beancurd and chicken cubes is OK too with cooked oats. One of the most delicious dishes with kimchi I enjoyed was when I spent the night on the floor of the living quarters with the ajumma who takes care of the temple at Mai-san. It was a dish of simple stir-fried chopped-up kimchi with a pinch of sugar and ground dried anchovies. Heaven.
Excuse me while I go to the supermarket. I hear the kimchi calling my name.
source:
http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/news/news_Dm_detail.htm?No=67587
http://www.trifood.com/kimchichigae.html
No. 11 One More Thing to Do At Songgwangsa
Forgot one important item on My List of Things to Do At Songgwangsa.
If you're ambitious, have sturdy legs and time to spare, here's another thing you can do ( which I'd like to do as well one day before my knees give way!): Walk from Songgwangsa to Seonamsa. It's about 5 hours, has great views and is apparently a rewarding journey.
source:
http://www.korea.net/News/News/NewsView.asp?serial_no=20081212001
If you're ambitious, have sturdy legs and time to spare, here's another thing you can do ( which I'd like to do as well one day before my knees give way!): Walk from Songgwangsa to Seonamsa. It's about 5 hours, has great views and is apparently a rewarding journey.
http://www.korea.net/News/News/NewsView.asp?serial_no=20081212001
Lee Min-ho is ETUDE's Poster Boy - Is That Brilliant Marketing or What?
Relevance kow-tows to raging hormones or die-hard romantics. That seems to be the strategy adopted by Amore Company which sells ETUDE cosmetics.It's not enough that ETUDE outlets are designed to look like doll-houses, and the packaging of their products to be all pretty in pink. Now ETUDE is playing fairy godmother to all the would-be Cinderellas out there by providing a Prince Charming ( otherwise known as Lee Min-ho of Boys Over Flowers fame) to promote its products intended for the female market. So this weekend, ETUDE will whisk Prince Charming from Taiwan to Singapore to Malaysia in a whirlwind visit to generate more excitement over ETUDE's BB Creams etc. Of course, this enterprising godmother expects all the Cinderellas to prove they're worthy of their Prince's attention ( or signature, at least) by purchasing a certain amount of cosmetics or skin-care products to qualify for a poster of prince with house kitty so that they can queue for goodness-knows how long to be close up and personal ( ?) for one magical moment with HRH.
Unsmitten shoppers who are thinking of heading to ETUDE shops in S'pore & Malaysia, be forewarned. It's going to get really hot and crowded on the 24th ( Spore) and 25th ( at Sungai Wang Plaza, at 5 pm in Malaysia, according to what I've seen on the Net, can't confirm this, sorry!)
Good luck to you all ( Lee Min-ho, included). Wait a minute... why am I wishing him? He's paid $$$ to play poster boy for ETUDE. Let's just hope he'll have the stamina and patience to be professional enough to reward each of his ardent fans with a princely nod, wave and smile.
source:
http://www.dramabeans.com/2009/03/etude-houses-new-face-lee-min-ho/
Thursday, October 22, 2009
Open Letter to the Mayor of Suncheon- A Layman's Complaint
Dear Sir,
I came across your website on Suncheon Bay while doing some research for my blog. In some ways it helped me a great deal. However, may I be so bold as to make one suggestion?
First, let me quote an example from your website:
"Passage birds are the measures of productivity of swamp. For example, numerius madagascariensis loses half the weight during flying 4000~ 5000km non-stop from Austrailia."
It sounds like you employed a zoologist to write instead of getting the naturalists to pass on the facts to professional advertising people who could make the text more appealing and easier to understand. How many people know what "numerius madagascariensis" means? Why send me back to Google to figure out that it refers to...., errr, excuse me while I do this...ah, it asks me if I mean "numeNius madagascariensis" and then I learn that you're talking about the eastern curlew. Don't know if there's a western counterpart but at least I've heard of curlews.
Wouldn't more visitors be drawn to Suncheon Bay if you said a number of hooded cranes and black-faced spoonbills stop over there instead of Grus Monacha and Platalea leucorodia?
Thanks for the Latin lesson but no thanks. I'd rather learn Korean. Sorry to sound like an ingrate but I'm tired and grumpy from having to spend so much time figuring out what's what.
Sincerely,
ajumma
Source:
http://www.birdsinbackyards.net/bird/237