Getting There, Getting Around, Putting Up & Eating Out in Jirisan

Most people enter Jirisan by way of Gurye as it’s well-connected by road and rail and has a number of yeogwans and small motels. You could take a bus from the Seoul Nambu Station directly but it’s a 4 ½ hour ride. Alternatively, you could catch a bus from Busan, Gwangju, Jeonju or Suncheon.

 I reached Gurye the short and fast way by Suncheon ( less than one hour by road). From the bus terminal in Gurye, you can hop onto local buses headed for Piagol Valley, Hwaoemsa, Hadong, Ssanggyesa for example. For more information on buses, click here or here.

Visitors can choose to make Gurye their base for exploring different trails in Jirisan – there are a number of places to stay that cater to different budgets. I preferred to stay out of town – there are usually rooms available in minbaks or yeogwans before the start of hiking trails or where the main temples are situated. If you’re a serious climber, make reservations ahead of time for a sleeping bunk in one of its mountain shelters or a spot to pitch your tent on the camping sites. If you want to pamper yourself, check out the hot springs laden with germanium at Spa Land ( Jirisan Eun-cheon) where you can watch the snowflakes fall while soaking in an open-air hot spring during winter.

In 2005, I paid 20,000 won to stay in a simple yeogwan in the tourist village about one kilometer outside Hwaeomsa. It had two plus points - great views especially in the evening and a little kitchen where I could cook instant noodles for an early breakfast before the sikdangs opened. Its drawbacks? Had to trek to a long corridor to the back of the two-storey building to get to my room The water in the bathroom was tepid so I had to boil water and lug potful after potful of hot water to pour into my bath basin. Followed the recommendation of the Lonely Planet and went to the Ttukbaegi Sikdang nearby. True, it had “generous and tasty side dishes” but alas, no free bindaettok ( pancake).

When I visited Korea in the spirng of 2007, the tourist village outside Ssanggyesa was packed with local tourists who were out in full force to see the cherry blossoms so I had to fork out 30,000 won for a small room above a convenience store. The enterprising family ran both yeogwan and shop. There were a number of restaurants but I preferred to pack a picnic lunch of gimbap , fruits and chocolate bars to savour after a few solid hours of walking.

sources:

http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=617752
http://jiri.knps.or.kr/Jirisan_eng/trans/transport.html
http://www.temf.co.kr/jirisan/eng/company/comLocation.asp
http://tour.hadong.go.kr/english/main.htm

A Park for all Seasons – Introduction to Jirisan National Park

One can keep revisiting Jirisan and yet not go back to the same spots as there are so many places to explore during the different seasons.

In the spring of 2007, I was fortunate enough to be stuck in a traffic jam from Hadong to Ssanggyesa in the south-eastern corner of Jirisan. The 6 km road lined with cherry trees is a wonder to behold during spring. If you’re really into spring flowers, you can also check out Sangwi Village, a.k.a. Ssansuyu Village which is full of bushes with tiny yellow flowers. I was content to do a long ( by my very humble standards) walk in one tiny corner of Jirisan when I follow a trail past Ssanggyesa, Hadaong to find the Bulilpokpo ( Falls).

However, if you enjoy waterfalls, it’s better to go in summer when there’s more rainfall and more action going on in rivers and falls. The Surak waterfall, 6 km from the hot spring resort, is at its best during the hot season and if you go there, let me know if there’s any truth to the claim in the brochure that its water is like “silver powder from the skies”. Summertime’s great as well for those who enjoy fishing and white-water rafting on the Sumjingang.

Two years before, my original plan to go directly from Suncheon to Hwaeomsa via Gurye was altered slightly at the suggestion of a friendly bus-driver to do a day-tour of Piagol Valley. I’d almost forgotten the recommendation I’d read earlier in one KNTO travel guide: “The twelve kilometers of Baemsagol Valley are famous for the autumnal leaves contrasting with deep blue ponds, and that of Piagol Valley is said to be as red as blood.” How could I resist such a promise of Gothic proportions?

Although Jirisan isn’t the place for skiing or to relive one’s Winter Sonata fantasies ( you can do both at Yongpyong Resort), it still gets some snow. So, if you like hiking with the crisp crunch of freshly fallen snow beneath your feet, you can try some of the trails in Jirisan National Park which may still be open during winter. Check with the local National Parks office.

One fantasy of mine is to live here for one year to check out the top ten scenic spots ( as voted by the Jirisan Mountains Alpine Association). They are, arranged here, according to what I’d like to see for each season:

1. The royal azaleas at Seseok in spring

2. The view of the sunrise from the peak of Cheonwangbong

3. The sea of clouds from Nogodan – for its azaleas in spring, day lilies in summer, snow-capped trees in winter

4. The clear stream of Sumjin – also in spring or summer

5. Bulil waterfalls – probably best seen in summer when the rains are heaviest and the falls most dramatic

6. The Chilsun or Chilseon Valley – in summer

7. The red maples of Jhikjoen in autumn

8. The full moon seen from Byukso
9. The Banya sunset

10. Yeonha fairyland


Source:
1. http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264283
2. http://jiri.knps.or.kr/eng/

Best place to get stuck in a traffic jam in April?

Question: Where’s the best place to get stuck in a traffic jam in April?

 Traffic jam on provincial road - taken from a local bus from Hwagae bound for Ssang-gye-sa

Answer: The road between Hwagae-jang-teo ( Hwagae Marketplace) and Ssang-gye-sa (Temple) near Hadong in Gyeong-sang-nam-do.


The reason? See picture above.

Hadong-gun is situated in the south-western corner of Gyeongsamnamdo.

Marked on the maps as Provincial Road No. 1023, it’s also known as Hadong’s famous Cherry Blossom Road. This stretch of road which runs alongside a modest-sized stream is flanked by cherry trees which are more than 60 years old.

Tea bushes side by side cherry trees

Come springtime, this narrow 4-kilometer valley road is transformed into a tunnel of pale pink blossoms and crowds are drawn to its local festival. Don’t be surprised to find yourself in a bumper-to-bumper crawl between Hadong and Ssang-gyesa.

Spectacular sights like this attract hordes each spring

It is a test of patience for drivers tailing other cars or buses as they head towards the parking lots just outside the temple. However, cherry blossom enthusiasts who are lucky enough not to be behind any steering wheel can gawk to their hearts’ content. Traffic moves so slowly that you can still take pretty decent shots of the flowers from a moving vehicle.

Ssang-gye-sa: still peacedful despite the festival crowds

The ride on the local bus from the Hadong Bus Terminal to Ssang-gye-sa is usually about 40 minutes but when there’s a festival and the cherry blossoms have reached full bloom, you can expect the journey to take much longer.

If the sheer exuberance of the cherry trees isn’t enough to satisfy your appetite for nature’s charms, you can also feast your eyes on orchards graced with delicate pear blossoms or the sculptured beauty of old tea plantations.

Tea bush plantations hug the foothills of Jirisan

Here's additional info from the KNTO webpage:

The 'Simni Cherry Blossom Road' is a 6km road between Hwagae Traditional Market in Hadong-gun and Ssanggyesa Temple. Cherry trees over 60 years old are in full bloom along the winding path. The road is also called 'wedding path'--there is a tradition of couples walking down the path and taking a vow of matrimony.

After viewing cherry blossoms, you can also feel the ambience of a local traditional market at Hwagae Market. The authentic feature of Hwagae Market is almost gone now, but a traditional 5-day market is sometimes open. On the road from Hwagae to Ssanggyesa Temple are many traditional teahouses. The Hwagae Cherry Blossom Festival is held from April 4 to 6 every year at the terrace on Seomjingang River.

Transportation: Take a bus bound to Hwagae or Ssanggyesa Temple at Gurye Intercity Bus Terminal. During the cherry blossom festival, the bus between Hwagae and Ssanggyesa Temple may not be available. In this case, take the bus to Hwagae then walk to Ssanggyesa Temple.

sources:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hadong
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_4_12_15_3.jsp
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=255639
http://eng.hadong.go.kr/main/
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264125
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_2_1.jsp?cid=700651