Around Korea By Bus In Two Weeks, Part 2

Here's the second part of my itinerary for my 2005 solo visit to Korea. For more information on buses, click here.

29 Oct – Saturday
Joined the free Suncheon City Tour by bus. Just ask at the Tourist Information booth just outside the train station. ( NOTE: Outside, not inside the train station!)

Beautiful sunny day in Nagan-eupseong Folk Village; a patch of eulalia and a stunning maple tree in the Dolmen Park were distractions from the main attractions i.e. prehistoric burial grounds.

The size of Songgwangsa was as impressive as the variety of autumnal colours on the temple grounds.With the bird flu scare, it was reassuring to see that precautions were even taken outdoors at Suncheon Bay.

30 Oct – Sunday
Got greedy and signed up for another tour on the Suncheon City Tour bus as I didn't want to pass up the chance to see Seonamsa.

31 Oct – Monday
Took bus near my yeogwan to Gurye and then changed for a local bus to Piagol Valley. A great walk would've been greater if I had the presence of mind to wear the right shoes. The result: I missed the chance to see the famous blood-red maples of Piagol.

The disappointment was off-set by the entertaining company of three kind gentlemen of Gurye. Their leader gave me a ride to Hwaomsa and showed me where I could find a place to stay outside this major temple in Jirisan National Park. Beautiful sunset.

1 Nov – Tuesday
Revisited Hwaom-sa in the early morning and saw the monks sweeping the lane leading up to the temple. An ancient pine tree, stone sculptures and stone lantern created the deepest impressions.

Around mid-day, I boarded a bus from the bus stop near my minbak to head for Gwangju. Changed to bus No 311 for Damyang. Enjoyed an unexpected tour of Damyang, courtesy of the local police!

Gamsa-hamnida to Three Gentlemen in Gurye

To Three Gentlemen in Gurye,

My visit to Piagol Valley remains a heart-warming memory because of my good fortune in meeting you. There I was cursing my own absent-mindedness in forgetting to change into sneakers and there you were, three retired school principals out for a day’s walk. You invited me to join you for a picnic on the rocks of a partially dry stream near a footbridge. It was a modest and odd meal of sorts: persimmons, mandarins, grape juice and some local brew ( I think you said it was maekkolli) and cream cheese crackers as my own contribution.

I was impressed when you cleared away the remains of our picnic and even more so by the fast pace you kept up as we continued our walk, despite your claim to various health problems. Truth is, although you were older, you were much fitter and more sure-footed. I was sorry that I couldn’t match your stride and didn’t have the nerve to make the effort as I was more worried about slipping and twisting my ankle. So I turned back regretfully before I could reach Piagol Valley. Despite your encouragement and patience, I wasn’t prepared to impose on you and disgrace myself any further by holding you back with my city-slicker crawl.

I felt very much like a wimp and tried to console myself by going down to the river’s edge to sit Zen-like on the rocks and soak up the autumn sunshine and enjoy the water’s gurgling. On my way out later, I paused for a snack of odeng (fishcakes on a stick) when lo and behold, there you were again, back from your walk. Again, you invited me for a light lunch of acorn jelly salad and soju. Lucky for me, I had seen enough Korean TV dramas to remember the custom of filling your glasses as the youngest member at the table.

One of you, Mr Lee, seemed to be the apparent leader of the group. Whether it was because of your seniority or position or because you were the driver for the day but you insisted on playing tour guide and suddenly I found myself bundled into your spacious car and off to visit Yeongoksa ( temple).

I tried to show my appreciation by paying more attention than I usually do to the relics and explanatory boards there. After that, you had to take a short siesta ( another exemplary and reaassuring thing I noted!) before you took to the wheel again while the rest of us could enjoy at leisure good views of one small section of Jirisan National Park.

I wasn’t sure when you decided that you were going to drive me back to the bus terminal at Gurye where I had left my bag before taking me to Hwaeomsa, my original destination for the day. Neither you nor your companions seemed to mind the detour the least bit – was it innate chivalry, a welcome opportunity to share and show off your hometown to a tourist or were you bored and enjoyed this diversion? It wasn’t exactly a short drive and you even pointed out to me casually the blue roof of your home which we passed on the way to Gurye. The lights of the afternoon sun reflected off the river on our left and I could see lone anglers here and there in the water, waiting patiently for their catch. I didn’t think though that their patience matched yours or perhaps patience is a local trait.

Anyway, I was a bit puzzled at first when you passed me your hat just before your car approached the ticket booth at the entrance to Hwaeomsa. Perhaps you didn’t want the hassle of pausing to pay the entrance fee for the tourist or if you just wanted me to enjoy the same privilege as the locals. But it was amusing, being part of this subterfuge as if we were school kids sneaking past the ticket booth of a cinema.

Again, you played tour guide at the temple before finally dropping me off at the tourist village just outside Hwaeomsa as the evening shadows lengthened. I think you even told the ajummas running a yeogwan to take care of me if I needed help. I bowed as deeply as I could without toppling over while repeating “Gamsa-hamnida” as you waved goodbye in a matter-of-fact way.

So once again, Chong-mal Gamsa-hamnida for a wonderful and memorable day. Even though I didn’t get to see the blood-red maples of Piagol, I consider myself lucky to have experienced your amazing hospitality.

Warmest wishes,
Ajumma

sources:
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Makkeolli

A Park for all Seasons – Introduction to Jirisan National Park

One can keep revisiting Jirisan and yet not go back to the same spots as there are so many places to explore during the different seasons.

In the spring of 2007, I was fortunate enough to be stuck in a traffic jam from Hadong to Ssanggyesa in the south-eastern corner of Jirisan. The 6 km road lined with cherry trees is a wonder to behold during spring. If you’re really into spring flowers, you can also check out Sangwi Village, a.k.a. Ssansuyu Village which is full of bushes with tiny yellow flowers. I was content to do a long ( by my very humble standards) walk in one tiny corner of Jirisan when I follow a trail past Ssanggyesa, Hadaong to find the Bulilpokpo ( Falls).

However, if you enjoy waterfalls, it’s better to go in summer when there’s more rainfall and more action going on in rivers and falls. The Surak waterfall, 6 km from the hot spring resort, is at its best during the hot season and if you go there, let me know if there’s any truth to the claim in the brochure that its water is like “silver powder from the skies”. Summertime’s great as well for those who enjoy fishing and white-water rafting on the Sumjingang.

Two years before, my original plan to go directly from Suncheon to Hwaeomsa via Gurye was altered slightly at the suggestion of a friendly bus-driver to do a day-tour of Piagol Valley. I’d almost forgotten the recommendation I’d read earlier in one KNTO travel guide: “The twelve kilometers of Baemsagol Valley are famous for the autumnal leaves contrasting with deep blue ponds, and that of Piagol Valley is said to be as red as blood.” How could I resist such a promise of Gothic proportions?

Although Jirisan isn’t the place for skiing or to relive one’s Winter Sonata fantasies ( you can do both at Yongpyong Resort), it still gets some snow. So, if you like hiking with the crisp crunch of freshly fallen snow beneath your feet, you can try some of the trails in Jirisan National Park which may still be open during winter. Check with the local National Parks office.

One fantasy of mine is to live here for one year to check out the top ten scenic spots ( as voted by the Jirisan Mountains Alpine Association). They are, arranged here, according to what I’d like to see for each season:

1. The royal azaleas at Seseok in spring

2. The view of the sunrise from the peak of Cheonwangbong

3. The sea of clouds from Nogodan – for its azaleas in spring, day lilies in summer, snow-capped trees in winter

4. The clear stream of Sumjin – also in spring or summer

5. Bulil waterfalls – probably best seen in summer when the rains are heaviest and the falls most dramatic

6. The Chilsun or Chilseon Valley – in summer

7. The red maples of Jhikjoen in autumn

8. The full moon seen from Byukso
9. The Banya sunset

10. Yeonha fairyland


Source:
1. http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264283
2. http://jiri.knps.or.kr/eng/