Letter to a Nun In Naksan-sa, Part 5

To A Nun I Met in Naksan-sa,

There I was , stopping outside Hong-ryeong-am in the autumn of 2004, feeling a little more than disappointed and cheated because the sunrise I had been expecting at Uisangdae didn’t materialize. And there you were, apparently just having finished your morning meditations or morning chores with a little time to spare before your next round of chants and prostrations. Can’t remember how we started chatting, if one can even call it that as my Korean was just as limited as your English. But it’s amazing how far a little goodwill and a dictionary can take us.

Despite the language barrier, I think somehow we managed to work out that we shared the same birth year and I think I managed to ask you rather impertinently why you chose to be a nun. You smiled enigmatically ( or was it awkwardly?) because you didn’t want or know how to respond to my presumptuous question.

Our stilted conversation was punctuated by quiet long looks out to sea. My irritation was giving way to your calming smile and soon it was time for you to return to your temple routine. So I was more than a little surprised when you gestured for me to wait as you disappeared and reappeared with a bag of rice cakes and sweets which you put into my hands. My jaw dropped because I was more accustomed to seeing people giving things to Buddhist monks and nuns. Yet there you were - someone who had obviously given up so much, giving up even more to a stranger.

Hurriedly I rifled through my day backpack for something to reciprocate but my main supply of snacks was in the minbak where I’d left my main bag. You smiled reassuringly as if to say it didn’t matter, that you weren’t expecting anything, that you were simply happy to give me a parting present. Some people may think – how embarrassing to be at the receiving end and to accept things from a nun when I should be giving something to you. But it felt like a blessing because your kindness and generosity of spirit more than made up for the sunrise I had missed. Gamsa-hamnida.

Sincerely,

Ajumma

Rising From The Ashes, Naksan-sa Part 4

I visited Naksan-sa during my 2004 visit to Korea in autumn and then  in April, 2005, I was dismayed to hear that the temple had fallen victim to a forest fire. No thanks to dry and strong winds, it had spread and destroyed most of the temple buildings along with many important artefacts such as a 15th century bronze bell.

A sorry sight - Naksan-sa after the 2005 fire.

It wasn’t the first time the temple had been ravaged by the flames. Naksan-sa had been burnt down before when the Mongol invaders over-ran the country in the 13th century. Its reconstruction took place at different times during the 15th and 17th centuries under the Joseon kings. Again, during the Korean War of 1950-53, it was razed to the ground and rebuilt in late 1953. In its most recent reincarnation, Naksan-sa has been restored within four years after the 2005 disaster like the legendary phoenix rising from the ashes.

Reconstruction work on the temple flooring

It’s a remarkable story of resilience and community effort. In his speech at the completion ceremony on October 12, 2009, the abbot of Naksan-sa said: “I bow my head and humbly thank all the monks and nuns of the Jogye Order, Buddhist devotees, and Korean citizens for helping in the difficult four-year restoration process. We will do our best to continue in the restoration to return Naksansa Temple to the hearts of the Korean people. It is important to not only restore the buildings, but also the 1000-year cultural heritage and the spirit of the ancestors.”

Even the surrounding walls get a new lease on life

A local museum now houses a violin and cello which were built from wood that survived the fire on the temple grounds. Check out the flash presentation which is based on the story of the temple. Aside from the inspiring morality tale about endurance and fortitude, one wonders if measures are in place to protect such historic and religious buildings from similar fires. For another story of a temple which was also a fire victim, click here.

Reconstruction Project Completed by 2009!

Sources

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naksansa#2005_fire_and_reconstruction
http://www.buddhapia.com/buddhapi/eng/temple/korexp/html/bu11.html
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=312871
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=309343
http://english.triptokorea.com/english/viewtopic.php?t=5925
http://eng.koreatemple.net/travel/view_temple.asp?temple_id=32
http://www.koreanbuddhism.net/jokb/press/view.asp?article_seq=5865&page=1&search_key=&search_value=
http://www.knto.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264186&nearBy=site&
http://www.kimsch.net/flash/dream-en.swf
http://www.land.go.kr/gTra.do?tra=enudestination&cid=3204
http://german.visitkorea.or.kr/ger/SI/SI_GE_3_1_1_2.jsp?cid=335521

A Very Short Checklist to Things to Look Out For, Naksan-sa Part 3

Here's a brief list of things to look out for when you're visiting Naksan-sa in Gangwon-do:

1. Translation is such a tricky business – couldn’t help raising my eyebrows when I first saw Wontongbojeon of Naksan-sa translated as “Hall of Complete Penetration”. Ahem. How about “Hall of Profound Insight”? or “Hall of Thorough Enlightenment”? Not quite the same, is it?

2. The Arched Gate was built the same year as the pagoda. Legend has it that 26 stones, each contributed by the magistrates of the 26 towns in the area made up the main building materials.

3. Naksan –sa is home to National Treasure No 499. It’s a 6.2 metre- high, 7-storey pagoda (Chilcheung Seoktap ) built in 1467. A Buddhist rosary and magic beads are reputed to be stored within this Goryeo- style pagoda with a distinctive single square base with 24 stone lotus petals. For comparisons with a Shilla style pagoda, click here.

4. According to another legend, a red lotus blossomed in the sea while Uisang, the founder of Naksan-sa conducted his week-long prayers. Eventually Hongryeon-am ( “Red Lotus Hermitage”) was built near the cave he used for his meditation- by- the -ocean sessions.

I was poking my head into the tiny hermitage for a quick look around when a kind ajumma, who had just finished her 108 prostrations, lifted up a 10 cm square from the wooden floor to show me the crashing waves beneath. Perhaps it was designed to show the cave where Uisang had meditated or maybe the present-day monks liked to chant to the rhythm of the waves.

Sources

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naksansa#2005_fire_and_reconstruction

http://www.buddhapia.com/buddhapi/eng/temple/korexp/html/bu11.html
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=312871
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=309343
http://english.triptokorea.com/english/viewtopic.php?t=5925
http://eng.koreatemple.net/travel/view_temple.asp?temple_id=32
http://www.koreanbuddhism.net/jokb/press/view.asp?article_seq=5865&page=1&search_key=&search_value=
http://www.knto.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264186&nearBy=site&
http://www.kimsch.net/flash/dream-en.swf
http://www.land.go.kr/gTra.do?tra=enudestination&cid=3204
http://german.visitkorea.or.kr/ger/SI/SI_GE_3_1_1_2.jsp?cid=335521

The Ultimate Compassionate Lady, Naksan-sa Part 2

Let’s start with the vital statistics. He/ She is an immortal but this particular version is 33 years old this year. Weighing 700 tons, he/ she stands 15 meters (49 feet) tall on top of a 2.8- meter ( 9 –foot) pedestal on the grounds of Naksan-sa, facing the East Sea. He / She is made of white granite. His/ Her eyes and mouth are closed in an expression of perfect serenity.

She has many names: Avalokitesvara Bodhisattva (Gwaneumbosal),

Haesugwaneumsang (Bodhisattva of Mercy); she's a central figure in Mahayana Buddhism

Others elsewhere like him/her are shown with four, six or even a thousand hands with eyes in the palms to represent the all-seeing and compassionate nature. Here, though, the left hand bears a vessel with holy water while the right hand is shaped in a meditative mudra. Neither male nor female, Gwaneum-Bosal is, nevertheless, known as the Goddess of Mercy, a.k.a. Haesugwaneumsang ( 해수관음입상, Bodhisattva of Mercy).

Busan sculptor Gwon Jeong-hwan (권정환) takes the credit for this impressive sculpture.

The inspiration to build a temple at Naksan came at a difficult time in Korean history. The Shilla kings were desperately trying to ward off attacks by the Tang Dynasty emperors of China. Grand Master, Uisang Daesa, an emissary of the 30th king of the Shilla Period, had just completed his Buddhist studies in China and was meditating near a cave reputed to be the abode of Gwaneum-bosal. Legend has it that the Bodhisattva instructed him to erect a temple at the same spot. Since then, generations of devotees have been making their way to this temple dedicated to Gwaneum-Bosal to make their pleas for divine assistance known.

Gwanum-bosal can be found on a hillock in the background of this pic.

There are only two other places in Korea where one can pray to Gwanum-bosal: Bori-am in Namhae and Bomun-sa in Ganghwa-do. Busloads of pious ajummas in particular can be seen praying at these temples while Naksan-sa is also a popular spot to welcome the first sunrise of the New Year, whether one follows the Gregorian or Chinese lunar calendar.

The Goddess of Mercy in Bori-am, Namhae

Sourceshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naksansa#2005_fire_and_reconstruction
http://www.buddhapia.com/buddhapi/eng/temple/korexp/html/bu11.html
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=312871
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=309343
http://english.triptokorea.com/english/viewtopic.php?t=5925
http://eng.koreatemple.net/travel/view_temple.asp?temple_id=32
http://www.koreanbuddhism.net/jokb/press/view.asp?article_seq=5865&page=1&search_key=&search_value=http://www.knto.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264186&nearBy=site&http://www.kimsch.net/flash/dream-en.swf
http://www.land.go.kr/gTra.do?tra=enudestination&cid=3204
http://german.visitkorea.or.kr/ger/SI/SI_GE_3_1_1_2.jsp?cid=335521

Waiting for the Sunrise, Naksan-sa Part 1

I thought I did everything by the book – set my alarm clock and wake up early before dawn , find my way from my minbak near Naksan beach and up a hill to Naksan-sa ( temple). Then creep tentatively without benefit of torchlight in the autumnal dark to Uisangdae ( pavilion). Spend at least thirty minutes shivering in the cold and dark, waiting for the famous sunrise and guess what happens?

Nothing.

Above and  below: The sunrise pics which I wanted to take but couldn't

True, the sky lightens and the presence of some Korean tourists who appear a little while after I do, reassure me that I’m in the right place but alas, there are too many clouds obscuring the spectacular dawn which I was hoping to see.

So to console myself, I pay closer attention to the octogonal pavilion itself which is a 1925 reconstruction of a pavilion where the famous monk,Ui-sang used to meditate.

It was also the place that provided inspiration for the Joseon poet, Songgang Jeongcheol. Here’s my reworking of his verse:

After the pear blossoms have fallen,
Mid the cuckoo’s sad laments,
Beyond the hill east of Naksan at Uisangdae,
I rise in the darkness to wait for the dawn.
The brightening clouds are flowers blooming
And the sun’s a precious stone held up by six dragons.
It ascends in majesty from sea to sky and
The whole earth trembles as it rises swiftly,
Brighter than a thousand candles.

With or without the dawn, the Uisangdae's a pretty place with great views of the sea.

sources:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naksansa#2005_fire_and_reconstruction

http://www.buddhapia.com/buddhapi/eng/temple/korexp/html/bu11.html
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=312871
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=309343
http://english.triptokorea.com/english/viewtopic.php?t=5925
http://eng.koreatemple.net/travel/view_temple.asp?temple_id=32
http://www.koreanbuddhism.net/jokb/press/view.asp?article_seq=5865&page=1&search_key=&search_value=
http://www.knto.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264186&nearBy=site&
http://www.kimsch.net/flash/dream-en.swf
http://www.land.go.kr/gTra.do?tra=enudestination&cid=3204
http://german.visitkorea.or.kr/ger/SI/SI_GE_3_1_1_2.jsp?cid=335521