To Olle OR Dulle?

This is a promise to myself. As soon as I can, I’ll head for the hills. In South Korea, that is. First, a quick own-up: I like walking but I’m not a great nor good walker. Still, I love the low humidity, the autumn colours and very accessible walking paths in the ROK. Question is: given the usual shortage of time and won, a hard choice is imminent. Do I do the Dulle or the Olle?

The Dulle Trail in Jirisan ( source: JoongAng Ilbo)

Been following Steve Oberhauser’s account of his marathon exploration of all the hiking trails in Jeju known as the Olle Trails ( link) in The Jeju Weekly. I’d like to follow some of his footsteps ( but definitely not his Spartan diet ) but for the moment, I’m still waiting for him to complete and evaluate all twenty-one trails on the island before deciding which one is safer, easier and still rewarding scenic-wise for this ajumma.

There’s another Dulle Trail on the mainland in Jirisan National Park that looks immediately promising –that’s the trail between Jucheon in Jeollabukdo and Sancheong in Jeollanamdo. While I’m not likely to complete the full 70-km course, it’s supposed to be “perfect for those who are looking for a relaxing walk rather than a steep mountain climb”

OR if I’m really strapped for time….

Bukhansan Dulle Trails

I could attempt a teeny section of the 44 km- Dulle Trail around Bukhansan near Seoul. Apparently it’s a wooden walkway that’s easy on the legs, knees and heart. But if I still feel as if the stretch is taking its toll on my never-been-in-decent-condition body, I can look forward to the 35 benches along this novice-friendly trail.

Smartphone owners are even more spoilt as apps on the Andriod platform are available for five trails out of the 13 Bukhansan Dullegil trails. You can get easy access to maps, side trails information and interesting explanations about highlights along the courses. The information is available in English, Korean and Japanese. Check out the official website of Korea National Park Organization (www.knps.or.kr) and Bukhansan Dullegil (http://ecotour.knps.or.kr/dulegil/index.asp).


But if you think all this is too lame for you, then check out the Haeparang Road, once it’s completed in 2014. This 688-km trail will stretch from Busan all the way up to Goseong’s Unification Observatory near the DMZ. A perhaps over-enthusiastic spokesperson for the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism even indicated to the press that the trail could even reach Russia’s Vladivostock in the future.


Sources:
http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2926536
http://www.koreaherald.com/lifestyle/Detail.jsp?newsMLId=20100915000631
http://www.panoramio.com/photo/51299295  joey janzen olle_jeju1
http://android-apps.com/applications/travel-local/bukhansan-dulle-gil/
http://www.jejuweekly.com/news/articleList.html?sc_sub_section_code=S2N63
http://ecotour.knps.or.kr/dulegil/index_e.asp
http://eckorea.ecplaza.net/news/13/48405/seoul_to_create_a_200kilometer.html

In Pursuit of Autumn Colours In Korea 2011

 Capture the silvery, delicate beauty of  eulalia or pampas grass ( Haneul Park in Seoul. /Newsis)  

Stunning maple reds are expected to be in full display between 18th and  20th October in Seoraksan. Brace yourselves for crowded trails and be prepared to share the beautiful scenery with hordes of visitors and wait in line to snap photos of your loved ones posing beside a particularly pretty tree.

The trees in Yeouido in Seoul are already changing colour also.

Fall foliage is expected to peak around 22nd of October.

Check out the photos of Korea's autumn colours on this blog for some inspiration.

Some hints from an amateur for great shots:

1. Go early to avoid heads intruding into your photos.

2. Head for the temples in the national and provincial parks.

3. Balance close-ups and wide-angle shots.

sources:

http://english.chosun.com/site/data/html_dir/2011/10/11/2011101100390.html

http://english.chosun.com/site/data/html_dir/2011/10/03/2011100300354.html
http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/nation/2011/10/115_96329.html
http://www.pbase.com/dbh/autumn

Autumn Leaves Schedule for Korea, 2011

Here's the 2011 Fall Foliage Schedule, lifted from the KTO website.

"The Korea Meteorological Administration recently announced that the autumnal tint will be making its appearance 1-6 days later than it has in previous years. Leaves on Jirisan Mountain and the central regions of Korea are expected to start changing between October 3rd and 19th, while the southern regions will start experiencing the seasonal bursts of color between October 13th and 30th.

The first foliage* of Seoraksan Mountain is predicted to start around October 3rd, and will reach its peak** around October 18th. The peak time of fall foliage on Naejangsan Mountain will be around the 7th of November. Last but not least, the autumnal tint will peak in the central regions and Jirisan Mountain around middle to late October, and in the southern regions around late October to early November.

2011 Autumn Foliage Schedule ( I've just selected some national parks. For the full schedule, click here.)

How to Read the Info Below:
National Park - Date for First Foliage - Date for the Peak Foliage

NOTE:

*First foliage = 20% of a given area’s foliage has changed color
**Peak foliage = 80% or more of a given area’s foliage has changed colors


Seoraksan  in Gangwon-do (설악산) 10.3 - 10.20
Bukhansan  in Gyeonggi-do, nearest to Seoul  (북한산) 10.19 -  10.28
Naejangsan, a popular place for viewing maple reds (내장산) 10.26 -  11.7
Jirisan - one of the biggest national parks (지리산) 10.13 10.23
Hallasan on Jeju-do (한라산) 10.17- 10.28

See earlier posting on shorter autumns in Korea

sources:
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/FU/FU_EN_15.jsp?cid=1391042
Courtesy of: Korea Meteorological Administration

Autumn Leaves in South Korea - ETA for 2011

Make your date with the autumn leaves in Korea in October - but look sharp. The season, as I've suspected, is getting shorter and more elusive. See the KBS news article below:

from 2010's autumn foliage schedule posted on the KTO website

From the KBS news website:
"Autumn foliage will appear later than usual this year and the beautiful colors of the changing leaves won't last as long. The Korea Meteorological Administration forecasts that leaves are expected to change color first at Mount Seorak around October third and at Mount Jiri around the 13th. The foilage at Mount Bukhan will begin to turn red around the 19th. These dates are three to four days later than average.

But the crimson foliage is expected to reach its peak faster this year, from mid-October in the central region and late October in the south. The weather agency says higher than normal temperatures through mid-September will push back the start of the turning of the leaves but as temps go down from later this month, the changing of colors will pick up speed."


Same news from Arirang:
"Autumn is here in Korea and you can see the leaves turning a beautiful red at Mt. Seorak starting October 3rd.The Korea Meteorological Administration says the fall foliage will move through late October peaking two weeks after the first showing. High temperatures this month have delayed start of the changing colors compared to an average year by about one to six days depending on the region."

Click here for a comparison with 2010 and with 2009.  Am waiting for the official schedule published by KTO and will post here ASAP for fall foliage hunters.

Sources:

http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/news/news_Sc_detail.htm?No=84575&id=Sc
http://www.arirang.co.kr/News/News_View.asp?nseq=120474&code=Ne2&category=2

"Those Were The Days" - A Sunim's Version With Interjections and Questions

Came across this article in the Joong Ang Daily ( my comments and questions in parentheses). I used to toy with the idea of spending time learning temple cuisine in a future visit to Korea but now am having second thoughts. Shows you how faint-hearted I am.

"The following is an account by monk Shimwoo, in his own words, of the history of temple food at Haein Temple. He explains how the kitchens operated before gas boilers were installed in 1987, when the monks had to rely on wood fires, and how discipline was even stricter then than it is now.

 

Haeinsa's Kitchen - No need for Gordon Ramsay here

The kitchen in Haein Temple has now been modernized, but before 1987 we still used wood fire stoves and iron cauldrons. For junior students who were yet to become monks, their duties often involved menial chores and cooking in the kitchen. Their daily work was supervised on a much stricter basis than it is now. Back then, if you were placed in the kitchen to, for example, make the rice, you would have to do that for an entire year.

( First thing that surprises me is that monks do the cooking 'cause in all the temples I've visited so far, I've only seen ajummas doing all the kitchen work. So how has this regime become more lax - do junior monks  have to cook rice for only 6 months before they're allowed to do anything else?)

"Meanwhile, the apprentice monks who were in charge of making side dishes would have to cut the food to exactly the set length. For kimchi, the set length was three centimeters, for kkakdugi (diced radish kimchi) it was 3.5 centimeters, while for tofu the length was 10 centimeters.

( Whoa - this is formidable. I tend to be pretty crude and slapdash in my chopping, slicing and dicing. Anyway, for people who are supposed to be Zen-like and not get hung up on trivial things, why  should the length and breadth of my carrot sticks matter?)

This rigorous kitchen work was a way of testing their willpower. The time they spent in the kitchen was a time for them to ask themselves if this was the way they wanted to live their lives. Back during that period, when a military government ruled the country, there were many people who came here to become monks. We used to welcome around 10 people every day. But after experiencing how hard the kitchen work was, most of them left.

( Which makes me even more faint-hearted than those people 'cause I'm now considering not signing up at all!)

When I think back to that time, a time when we didn’t have gas boilers inside the kitchen, there were many comic episodes that occurred. In the temple’s kitchen, we had a tradition of making rice for 500 people in just five minutes - which was very taxing for the junior monks. When I was in that role, I also had to do this. To make steamed rice for 500 people, you need 25 doe (a Korean unit of measurement that is equal to around 1.8 liters) of rice, or around 50 kg in weight. As soon as the person in charge of the fire finished lighting up the charcoal, the monk in charge of the rice would have to pour all the rice into the boiling hot water as quickly as possible and then close the cauldron lid. While the rice was cooking, the junior monk would have to stand next to the iron caldron in case anything went wrong. Because the caldron was steaming hot, anyone who stood next to it would soon be drenched in sweat. There were many times when junior monks collapsed due to all the heat as they were standing next to the giant cauldron. Then, after four minutes and 55 seconds, the monk in charge of the whole operation would yell out “put the fire out!” The timing is very important, as steamed rice can taste totally different even if you get the cooking time wrong by as little as 1/100th of a second.

( I guess that's why the juniors needed a year to learn to cook rice. Reminder to myself to ask for cooking lessons in a small hermitage kitchen instead of a gargantuan institution like Haeinsa. )

When you are making rice for 500 people, there is bound to be a lot of nurungji (crust of overcooked rice left on the bottom of the pot). The amount of nurungji that we stored for a year was huge. We would put it in a separate wooden rice chest and use it to make gochujang. So, on the day we made gochujang at the temple, the monks would take the nurungji to the nearest rice mill and grind it. Then we would mix red pepper flakes, ground nurungji powder and starch syrup to make gochujang. The gochujang we made from nurungji was so nutty and delicious. It has to be tasted to be believed.

( And here I was thinking that nurungji was something one made into a delicious drink or candy. Wonder whether I can purchase this gochujang at other places besides Haeinsa?)

Click here for directions on how to get to Haeinsa -whether you're checking out its famed printing woodblocks or its kitchen.
source:
http://koreajoongangdaily.joinsmsn.com/news/article/Article.aspx?aid=2940656
http://visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264238

Temple Sells Sauces

Fancy some temple-made gochujang? For those who like organic foodstuff free of additives and made from the purest natural ingredients, you may be happy to hear that the monks of Haeinsa are going commercial and selling their sauces like doenjang (soybean paste), ganjang (soy sauce) and gochujang (red pepper paste) to the public soon.

How will the temple jang compare to Shin's brand of gochujang?

What makes their sauces exceptional? As the article from Joong Ang Daily claims: "As the sauces need specific conditions to flourish, the surrounding environment, with its light rain, high daily temperatures and cool nights, makes it the perfect production base. Monks have known about the quality of the water produced around the temple for centuries. It derives from the Gobulam Mineral Spring, located at an altitude of 950 meters (3,117 ft), giving it a clean, crisp quality. Sounds as squeaky clean as the Sound of Music.

Will Haeinsa's sauces become more famous than its wooden printing blocks?

The official launch of the Haein Temple Jang brand will coincide with the Millennial Anniversary of the Tripitaka Koreana. Make your way to the main event hall of the Changwon Exhibition Center in Hapcheon, South Gyeongsang, from Sept. 23 to Nov. 6. to buy these sauces. Prices have not been confirmed but you may expect to pay around 18,000 won per kg. You may have to cough up an additional 10,000 won to enter the Millennial Anniversary Exhibition, though.

For more information, visit www.tripitaka2011.com or call (070) 4251-9200.


sources:
http://koreajoongangdaily.joinsmsn.com/news/article/Article.aspx?aid=2940657
http://www.sanchon.com/english/Temple/temple4.html
http://visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264238

Gochangeupseong Fortress: In the Footsteps of KBS's Hwang Jin-yi, Part 2

 The scene in which Ha Ji-won’s Hwangjinyi practises her dance before her first love, the impressionable and impetuous aristocrat ( played by Jang Geun-seuk) was shot at Gochang- eupseong.



See the last few minutes of this Youtube video from the KBS drama. 
Now I’ve been to other fortresses before in South Korea such as Nagan-eupseong, the fortress at Gongju and Hwaseong in Suwon, so what would make Historic Site No. 145 in Gochang-gun in North Jeolla Province (Jeollabuk-do) so special and worth visiting?

 Various sources suggest visitors take note of its distinctive round walls outside the fortress gates erected during the early Joseon Dynasty, a moat to discourage invaders and the absence of private dwellings ( unlike Naganeupseong, for instance) with only government buildings erected within its walls.

But I think what gives Gochang-eupseong its unique charm is its story of WOMEN POWER.

Professor Hur Kyoung-jin recounts a legend in the Spring 2005 edition of Koreana:
“At one time, two ramparts had to be built in the region at the same time, so men built one section at Seosan while women built another at Gochang. As an incentive, it had been decided that whichever town completed its walls first would be awarded a local magistracy…. However, since the men underrated the women, they would wile away the time in drink and merriment. In contrast, the women worked ceaselessly, hauling the stones and building the walls, without taking breaks. In the end, their steady efforts enabled the Gochang walls to be completed first. "

Dapseong Nori (walk around fortress) is held during the Gochang Moyang Fortress Festival 

( before or after September 9th in lunar calendar)

"To commemorate this legendary event, every year the women of Gochang walk all along the walls as part of a ‘wall-stamping’ festival. It is believed that anyone who walks the full length of the walls will be assured of good health and a long life. The effects are said to be especially beneficial if carried out during a leap year, when the gates to the afterworld would be open.”

A full circuit of these walls once is supposed to "prevent disease".

 Go round TWICE to enjoy a lifetime of good health AND

if you've the stamina to repeat the promenade for the THIRD time,

you've secured your ticket to heaven.

So if I manage to make my way to Gochang on the ninth day of the ninth lunar month, I'd need to bear in mind a few things:

1. Find out from the KTO when AND WHERE exactly this picturesque ceremony takes place. One blogger was too late for the event and had to be content with the sideshows.  Must remember to ask for the specific gate where this annual parade begins and ends.

2. I must NOT expect dramatic sights of ladies in hanbok gracefully and stoically bearing big rocks above their heads. Apparently, custom only requires symbolic gestures and the modern-day ajumma need only carry a stone as big as her dainty fist.

3. It's a 10-min walk from Gochang Bus Terminal to get to  Gochangeupseong.

sources:
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=658574
http://culture.gochang.go.kr/site_english/
http://culture.gochang.go.kr/site_english/festival/07-01.htm
http://jikimi.cha.go.kr/english/
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cvZxuVlq45Y
http://koreana.kf.or.kr/popup.asp?flag=view&article_id=5789&sword=gochangeupseong&volumn=19&no=1&lang=English

Yecheon - A Side Trip from the KBS Hwangjinyi Trail

While I'm not likely to make the effort to look for the Byeongamjeong Pavilion which formed the evocative backdrop to the meeting and parting of the young lovers in the KBS period drama, Hwangjinyi, I wouldn't spend spending time in Yecheon, the county where the pavilion is located.
This county in Gyeongsangbuk-do tends to go under the tourist radar; no surprise with more well-publicised attractions in nearby Andong.

Yecheon's in Gyeongsangbuk-do

Still, the county with a charming name (Yecheon,  예천군, 醴泉郡, sweet liquor.stream/spring) has a few places worth highlighting for a different travel experience especially as I prefer the laid-back pace with the opportunity to sample the agrarian practices and the traditional lifestyle of the yangban.

1. First stop I'd make: Hoeryeong-po or Horyeong-po or Hoelyeongpo (회룡포). This place is a geography lesson on ox-bow lakes come alive.  Firmly in the embrace of the Naeseong-cheon, which is a tributary of the Nakdong-gang, this agrarian village in Yonggung-myeon is about 17 km west of Yecheon.  It used to have at least twenty households a decade ago but apparently "only nine households remain".  It would be interesting to count how many households there are now. BTW, how many households are needed to call a village a village?

For best views of Horyeong-po, I'll need to get out my hiking boots and head for Biryong-san. Check out this posting on a day trip with rewarding views.

The pavilion on Biryongsan for great views of Horyeongpo

I'll play a game of spot the  rice fields and try to  identify the squash and watermelons plants but at the same time see if any particular spots look familiar as outdoor locations for  "Autumn in My Heart or Gaeul Donghwa ( 2002), one of the earliest Hallyu K-dramas which became popular outside Korea.

Cast of Gaeul Donghwa - Won Bin, Song Hye-gyo, and what's his name?

I'd also see if I can join a group  of visitors participating in a 2-day village experience. Hopefully I can learn to make and sample Korean rosebay cakes, and  pretend to be a farmer for a few hours by seeding potatoes, corn and collecting mugwort and pickpurse  ( Spergula arvensis L. ) in the surrounding hills. Or I'd just call 011-802-9054 or contact Chairman Ju-Hee Ryu at 017-533-651 to see if they'd entertain individual requests.

◈ Hopefully I'd have the stamina to reach this site to get similar scenic shots of this picturesque village such as those on this website  and these great shots from The Marmot's Hole. Must also remember to read up beforehand on the Three Rivers Pub or the Samgang Jumak, the last of the traditional watering-holes in the country.

2. Geumdangsil Village meaning "Lotus Blossom Floating Over / On? The Water" sounds like another pleasant stopover.  It's 1 km from Byeongamjeong ( Local Road 982 towards Yongmunsa)  and the description of its "picturesque old homes and stacked stone wall-lined streets" sounds promising. It'd be fun to get happily lost in its maze of narrow lanes and alleys. I could also check out Park Yeon-i's home ( in the first alley past the village entrance near Bansonjae House) which was used in the movie "Please Teach Me English".  Not so keen to take up the villagers' offer to dress up in period costumes but I wouldn't mind  signing up for calligraphy lessons or tea ceremonies for a sampling of the yangban ( aristocratic) life.

Musr remember that free calligraphy lessons are available on Monday evenings 7 pm but must BMyO brushes, chinese ink, paper. Contact : Yongmun myun office 82-54-650-6612 Transportation : 20 m from Yechun eup(10km).

Yecheon Hot Spring

3.If there's a 24-hour jjimjilbang at theYecheon hot spring  (예천온천), then this is the place for me. Let's see if there's any basis to the claim from the KTO website: "The nutrients in the water also have anti-aging properties."

To get there, I'd have to board a  bus to Yecheon Intercity Bus Terminal (예천시외버스터미널) at Dong Seoul Terminal (Departure 11 times a day (06:40-20:00), 2 hour and 30 minute ride). Then I'd need to get on the bus to Beolbang / Punggi (Hot Spring) at Yecheon Bus Terminal (06:20-18:10, 20 minute ride)

Nailseong Observatory

4. Never been to an observatory before so a visit to the Yecheon Astronomical Science Park a.ka. Nailseong Observatory could be an enlightening experience but if there aren't many translated displays in English, then I doubt if I could make head or tail of the artefacts on display in Nailseong Planetarium.
Perhaps I'd be better off as an armchair traveller and surf its website at http://www.portsky.net/

Still, it might be fun trying out the high-powered telescope and the astronaut training simulations even though I can't read  about the history of astronomy etc if the explanations are all in Korean only. If I can master my nerves, I'd try out the " G-force Simulator, bounce around in the Moon Walk Chair, experience the vertigo of zero-gravity on the Multi-Axis Trainer, or float in space using the MMU (Manned Maneuvering Unit)".  But if my queasy and cowardly stomach protesteth too much, then I'll humbly retreat to the auditorium to find out what a 4D movie looks like. Wonder if the overnight stay facility here is as cheap as a jjimjilbang stay?

To get there, I'd have to take a bus bound for Gamcheon (감천), Oncheon (온천), Beolbang (벌방), or Punggi (풍기) from the Yecheon Intercity Bus Terminal ,  *Bus departs approx. every 90 min


Sources:


http://www.investkorea.org/InvestKoreaWar/work/ik/eng/bo/print_added.jsp?bno=704200006&sort_num=114
http://en.filmkorea.or.kr/search/search_viewer.asp?grp=101&dir=1826&gotopage=4
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=805822
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=805822
http://www.invil.org/english/village/daegu/contents.jsp?con_no=101565&page_no=1
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yecheon
http://wiki.galbijim.com/Yecheon
http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=805928
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=1127954
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=1216638
http://san-shin.net/Yecheon-Biryongsan.html
http://en.ycg.kr/open_content/main/
http://211.114.21.20/alienspecies/eng/search/detail.jsp?id=16&page=10&code=
http://georgesuzuki.blogspot.com/2010/09/100911-mt-biryongsan-hwerongpo-yechon.html
http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/program/program_tour_detail.htm?lang=e&current_page=7&No=1359

What I've Been Missing This Summer

Here's a selection of photo stories from the JoongAng Daily from the past two months. This posting is  a reminder to myself of what I've missed while I was unable to blog this summer.

Ajumma's version of Nanta

1.Women from Wanju, North Jeolla, present a performance based on the old practice of ironing out wrinkled clothes by pounding with wooden clubs. The performance was held at the 2011 Seongbuk District’s Day of Social Enterprises at the Seongbuk District. [JoongAng Ilbo]

Magical Mystery Tour by Moonlight

2. Greeters welcome visitors to the Moonlight Tour at Changdeok Palace, hosted by the Korea Cultural Heritage Foundation. The event included an evening tour of the palace and performances of traditional Korean music and dance. The tour will resume in September. [NEWSIS]

Were the gods listening when Gangnam was flooded?

3.The National Folk Museum holds a traditional ritual to pray for clear skies, peace and the well-being of the nation. During the folk ceremony, called Gicheongje, museum-goers participated in prayers to the ancient mountain and river gods in the east, west, south and north to stop the deluge by offering drinks and food. By Kim Sang-seon

Would budget travellers be turned away from these cafeterias?

4. Dozens of Seoul citizens eat lunch yesterday at a police station cafeteria. With high inflation, many have resorted to eating in places like police stations and district offices, which offer inexpensive meals. [YONHAP]

Welcome Home, Uigwe, Even Though The French Say It's Just a Loan

5. Hyojang Seja Chaekrye Dogam Uigwe, above, an illustrated guide to the inauguration of the crown prince, will be displayed at the National Museum of Korea from July 19 to Sept. 18 in a special exhibition commemorating the return of the documents from France. It is one of 297 volumes of the Oegyujanggak Uigwe, which were returned to Korea from France in four difference batches from April to May this year. [YONHAP]

Hurray for the Dulle - How long will it take to walk around Bukhansan?

6. Climbers check a section of the Dulle walkway course that circles the entire circumference of Mount Bukhan, which was opened to the public yesterday after nine months of construction. [YONHAP]

How many different ways can you cook tuna?

7. Chefs yesterday lift a giant bluefin tuna to divide into pieces at a tuna restaurant in Jonggak, central Seoul. The tuna, which weighed 350 kilograms (772 pounds) and measured 270 centimeters (8 feet 10 inches) long, was caught off the shores of Jeju Island. [YONHAP]


 

Did Mr Gere do the 300 bows?

 8. U.S. actor Richard Gere signs a guestbook at Jogye Temple in central Seoul  as monk Sung Jin  watches. Gere, was in Korea for six days to promote his photo exhibition “Pilgrim,” which features photographs of Tibet, and to experience Korean Buddhism. “Pilgrim" runs until July 24. Gere will also visit Tongdo Temple in Yangsan, South Gyeongsang, and Donghwa Temple in Daegu. [AP/YONHAP]

Remind me to look out for a paddy field next time I visit Changdeokgung.

9. Tourists join officials of the Rural Development Administration and the Cultural Heritage Administration to plant rice in a paddy at Changdeok Palace in Seoul. Joseon Dynasty kings used to show their support of agriculture by planting rice themselves. By Kim Sang-seon

Sorry, smokers but my lungs and nostrils are celebrating this bit of news.

10. Seoul Metropolitan Government officials patrol Cheonggye Plaza in central Seoul as a new ordinance designating the plaza as a nonsmoking zone took effect. Smokers caught breaking the rule will be fined 100,000 won ($93.06). By Kim Do-hoon

Sources:

1. http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2938374

2. http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2937755

3. http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2939776

4. http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2939775

5. http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2938962

6. http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2938308

7. http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2938186

8. http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2937857

9. http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2936985

10. http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2937041

Byeongamjeong: In The Footsteps of KBS's Hwang jinyi, Part 2

Do I really want to spend precious time hunting down Byeongamjeong, a pavilion cum bridge which may no longer resemble the one featured in the KBS drama, Hwang-jinyi? Though I may admire the work of  Ha Ji-won ( BTW, check her recent interview with CNNGO Seoul here)  and think the younger Jang Geun-seuk even cuter than his present all-too-pretty incarnation, I'm not sure that I'd be so crazy as to visit this place simply because it served as romantic backdrop to a fictitious romance.



So here's the contrast between reel life and real life. Above, the music video of the heart-breaking tragic tale of yangban youth ( played by Jang Geun-seuk - all wide-eyed and bushy-tailed before he developed the brooding hippie look ) and the lowborn heroine ( played by the radiant Ms Ha Ji-won ) with a charming proposal scene shot at the pavilion. Below, the more prosaic reality, minus the lovely lighting, floral embellishments and editing out of modern day touches like a dull phone pole.

How To Get There:  

By car -  Take the Jungang Expressway. Exit at Nadeulmok of Yecheon.

Head toward Yongmun on Local Road 928.  About 8km down this road, you should be able to see Byeongamjeong.  It's the easternmost pavilion in a group of pavilions at Seonghyeon-ri in Yongmun-myeon.

By bus - From Dong Seoul Terminal, board a bus bound for Yecheon ( Services run 7 times daily between 6.40 and 18. 40; it's a 2 hour and 20 minute trip). From Yecheon, I'd probably ask around for local buses headed towards Yongmun or take a taxi.

According to one source, parts of the pavilion and stone bridge have been demolished for safety reasons. The rest of the structure is supposed to have been earmarked for similar treatment but this puzzles me as Byeongamjeong has been designated Cultural Property Material No 453. Then again, after looking through the website of CHA (Cultural Heritage Administration of Korea), I'm beginning to wonder if that's a false assumption ie. that such designations don't guarantee immunity from bulldozers.

So these pics may be the remaining record of the existence of this pavilion. Which may be a bit of a shame. Even if it hadn't featured in the KBS drama, it's quite a charming spot and one can only imagine how much prettier it would be with lotus flowers in full bloom in late July and August.

The trees around the pond seem rather photogenic as well, with or without leaves.

Although I'm not so keen to go all the way to Yecheon to look for this pavilion, I realise there are some other attractions that make this place worth visiting. Will cover these in the next posting.

Meantime,  for more on this pavilion which enjoyed its five minutes of fame in Hwangjinyi, check out The Scent of Spring from the Silver Screen: Yecheon ( dated 2007-04-20 )

Sources:
http://findallvideo.com/please-look-at-me-geu-dae-bo-se-yo-choi-hye-jin-engroman-sub/id/1989206191
http://gyeongbukhere.blogspot.com/2011/05/yecheon.html
http://www.investkorea.org/InvestKoreaWar/work/ik/eng/bo/print_added.jsp?bno=704200006&sort_num=114
http://en.filmkorea.or.kr/search/search_viewer.asp?grp=101&dir=1826&gotopage=4
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=805822

Important Update On Free Shuttle Services

Please take note if you're in Korea and  planning to make use of the free shuttle services between Seoul and Busan.

Between July 1 and August 31, the route is as follows:


Gwanghwamun 8:00 - Lotte Hotel Seomyun, Busan 14:20 - dep. Lotte Hotel, Busan 16:00 - arrive Seoul 22:00

Also the service will be stopped temporarily betwen 9th and 14th September to avoid the traffic snarls during the Chuseok holiday season.

For more information, click here.
 
source:
http://english.visitkoreayear.com/english/benefit/benefit_07_01_01.asp

Mureung Valley: In the Footsteps of KBS's Hwang Jin-yi, Part 1

Nothing beats sageuk ( Korean historical dramas) for getting inspiration when planning your travel itinerary around Korea. For some inexplicable reason, I've been watching again the KBS drama, Hwang Jin-yi and salivating each time the beautiful scenery of the countryside is featured. So here's the first part of my wish-list as I try to follow the footsteps of the KBS version of Hwang Jin-yi's story. ( Not much point trying to trace the trail of the original gisaeng as she lived in what is now North Korea).

First stop: the famed Mureung Valley in Gangwon-do, popular in the past among poets and these days among K-drama producers. It  forms the backdrop to the scene in which an aristocratic youth ( played by Jang Keun-suk) chances upon Hwang Jin-yi (played by Ha Ji-won) as one of the gisaengs-in-training. Just as it's love at first sight for the young man, it's love at first sight for yours truly as well and I wonder why I didn't pay attention to the mention of this place in my Lonely Planet guidebook. Now I kick myself mentally for this omission as I've also learnt that it's also been used as the outdoor shooting location for two of my other K dramas, Painter of the Wind and City Hall.




Click here for the link to KTO website.

I'd probably find a bus to Gangwon-do from Incheon International Airport.

May have to change at Chuncheon to get to Donghae. If it's late in the day,

 I'd stay at a jjimjilbang near the bus station at Donghae.

If Samhwasa temple or its nearby hermitages here don't have an informal temple-stay,

I guess I could easily find a minbak just outside the park grounds.

Must mentally prime myself not to expect gushing

 waterfalls as they tend to dry up in autumn.

I'd spend time to gawk and marvel at the Chinese characters inscribed on these rock faces.

And of course, hike up to see the Twin Falls.

From the KTO website:

Mureung Valley (무릉계곡), which spans from Mt. Dutasan (두타산) and Mt. Cheongoksan (청옥산), refers to a four-kilometer stretch from Hoamso Pond – where, according to a legend, a tiger drowned to death – to Yongchu Falls, located upstream. The waters of Mureung Valley flow over wide sheets of rocks and into the cracks between them, forming a large and particularly splendid pond along the path. Starting at Mureung Rock, a wide sheet of single rock on which hundreds can sit, the valley twists and turns around Samhwasa Temple, Haksodae Falls, Okryudong, and Seonnyeotang Ravine, all the way to Ssangpok and Yongchu Falls, providing breathtaking scenery along the way. Also known as ‘Arcadia,’ scholars and poets frequented the valley in olden times and the 5,000-m2 Mureung Rock bears the inscribed names of some of these poets and their works. The valley offers a medley of curious-looking rocks and stones, and other odd scenery that attracts many tourists.

Also, I'd need to check out Sogeumgang in the vicinity.
Hiking Trails - 3 suggestions from KTO:
* Trail 1:  Entrance - Mureung Rock (무릉반석) - Samhwasa Temple (삼화사) - Dutasanseong Fortress (두타산성) - Dutasan Mt. (두타산)

* Trail 2: Entrance - Mureung Rock - Samhwasa Temple - Gwaneumsa Temple (관음사) - Gojeokdae (고적대) - Dutasan Mt.

* Trail 3: Entrance - Haksodae (학소대) - Ssang Waterfalls (쌍폭포) - Youngchu Waterfalls (용추폭포) - Bakdallyeong (박달령) - Cheongoksan Mt. (청옥산)

Travel options:
1. Take a bus from East Seoul Terminal to Donghae. Nineteen rounds of bus services are provided everyday from 07:09 to 20:05 and the ride takes about 3 hours.

Or take a train from Cheongnyangni Station to Donghae/Mukho Station. Six rail services are provided everyday from 07:00 to 22:40 and the ride takes about 6 hours.

2. Once you are in Donghae, you can take a city bus from Donghae Intercity Bus Terminal to Mureung Valley. (The bus operates at 30-minute intervals and the 14.1 kilometer journey takes about an hour.)

 
sources:
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=789870#
http://punynari.files.wordpress.com/2010/03/forfigure-fm.jpg?w=600
http://tigersandmagpies.com/2010/01/donghae-cheongok-cave-mureung-valley/
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TlKdfq64mj0&feature=player_embedded
http://www.skynews.kr/article_print.asp?mcd=60&ccd=6&scd=3&ano=37
http://english.dhtour.go.kr/guide/10.htm

Hallyu Spreading

I betcha someone is probably placing a pin on a large world map in the office of KTO in Seoul right this minute to update his superiors on the progress made by the Hallyu Wave since the start of the millennium.

If I were doing an academic exercise for some post-grad work, I may even do a study on how Hallyu has spread first through K dramas,then Kpop music and even Korean food & drink to far-flung places like Manipur, Santiago, Tashkent and also Teheran.

So what's next - K ballet? K musicals? K fashion?

See article below from Donga-Ilbo.

JUNE 21, 2011 22:58


The "Korean Wave," or hallyu, started in Asia focused on TV dramas and K-pop but is now spreading to other genres and reaching a broader global audience.


The term "Korean Wave" was coined in 2003 when the hit soap opera "Winter Sonata" attracted huge fans in Japan. The fever has grown into a worldwide phenomenon with children in a small remote village in Manipur, India, saying "Thank you" and "I love you" in Korean.


Bekhzod, a college student in the Uzbek capital of Tashkent starts each day listening to the song "Gee" by Girls’ Generation that goes, “So cool, dazzle my eyes, can’t breathe, I’m shaking.” He sets the alarm of his mobile phone with this music and also watches the Korean drama "Queen Seondeok" on Samsung TV while having breakfast with his family.


Uzbek, Yoshlar, Tashkent and Markaziy, four state-owned TV stations in Uzbekistan, compete against other to air more Korean dramas.


Bekhzod has an LG Electronics air conditioner at home that he turns on during breakfast. Perhaps his fondness for Korean pop and dramas has prompted him to use Korean home electronics.


The young man’s bag is full of Korean-made pens and notebooks. When morning class is over, he gets Korean lessons from an ethnic Korean living there in preparation for a Korean-language contest. His daily life is surrounded by “Made in Korea” products.


If Korean dramas led the Korean Wave in early 2000s, K-pop is doing so now. K-pop is popular not only in Japan, China and Southeast Asia but also in North America, Europe, Africa and South America.


YouTube’s K-pop map shows that the music videos of Shinee’s “Replay” and 2NE1’s “Lonely” are viewed all over the world except in Chad and the Central African Republic.


According to the Korean Culture, Sports and Tourism Ministry’s 2010 content industry statistics, Korean music exports rose 71 percent between 2005 and 2009 from 22.27 million U.S. dollars to 31.26 million dollars.


The spread of the Korean Wave is helping raise Korea’s national brand image and the export of Korean products. After Lotte Liquor BG hired Korean actor Jang Keun-suk to endorse its products, Lotte exported 24 million bottles of the Korean rice wine "makgeolli" to Japan in the first half of this year, 40 percent more than its initial target.


With Korean food gaining popularity in Singapore after the historical drama "Jewel in the Palace (Daejanggeum)" was aired there, CJ Foodville opened a "bibimbap (spicy rice with vegetables)" chain Bibigo in the city-state.


LG Electronics, which started relatively later than its rivals in the smartphone market, has also raised its market share in Singapore thanks to the use of popular actor Lee Min-ho in ads.

Source:

http://english.donga.com/srv/service.php3?biid=2011062218078

The Different Faces Of Korea..according to KTO

Here are the latest promotional videos created by KTO - love the photography and the sight of the solo dancer dressed like a shaman ( I think?) is quite haunting. Pity the sites used in this video aren't identified but I can recognise a few and smile complacently and say to myself, "Been there, seen that."

But, mind you, only a few. Lots more to tick off on my long list of places to visit. Don't you love those magnificent trees? Can someone tell me their location?

On another note, pretend to be a marketing student and compare the different videos aimed at different regional markets. The first aimed at Chinese market depicts the dynamic Korea which puts a modern spin on its traditional performing arts while the second, intended for the Japanese market invariably features Bae Yong-jun but also typically emphasises the natural beauty of the country on an intimate scale. In contrast the exotic and mystical is highlighted in the campaign for the US and European markets. Even its slogan, "Be One With Earth and Sky" smacks of New Ageism. Is that what KTO thinks will sell Korea to Americans and Europeans?

Can't speak for them but hey, I'm sold.



sources:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=quQLnALSCps
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s0K8981Xluw&feature=related

The Honeymoon Is Over

When I backpacked on buses in past visits to Korea, I used to marvel how the local bus companies managed to offer services in rural areas even though there were few passengers occasionally. It was fun trying to make small talk with the halmeonis or halrabeojis who were often amused and bemused by this foreigner travelling alone. Fast forward to 2011 and this sobering news found on the Hankyoreh:

(Photo by Jeon Jin-sik)

"Residents living in rural areas of Buyeo County, South Chungcheong Province, wait for buses on their way home from visiting a local market that opens every five days at a bus stop in Buyeo Town, July 15. Recently, a number of farming and fishing village buses, which are the only transportation means for those who live in remote and secluded villages in the country, have ceased operation due to the accumulated deficit of the operating companies. Those companies have reduced and stopped bus services as their financial difficulties have worsened from oil price hikes and rising labor costs, in addition to a decreasing number of passengers. As of late 2010, 101 companies ran 2006 buses in 4181 bus routes.Accordingly, elderly residents and students in those regions have encountered considerable difficulties in going to school and the market."

Looks like I'll have to spend more time waiting for less frequent bus services or consider alternative ways of getting around the country. But really the inconveniences suffered as a shoe-string traveller are peanuts compared to what the poor halmeonis and elderly ajummas are going to suffer when their main lifelines are going to be severely curtailed or even disappear entirely.

How will grandma find the way home?

Anyone remember that grandma bent double who had to make her way from her cottage to the nearest market in town by bus in the movie "The Road Home"? There are plenty of ladies like her scattered across the country and I wonder how they'll manage to carry their farm produce from their humble gardens or fields to sell in the nearest rural market without benefit of local transport.



source:
http://english.hani.co.kr/arti/english_edition/e_entertainment/488392.html
http://vladivostokfilmfestival.ru/en/archive/film/52/