Not Much To Do In Buan Cine Theme Park

While the Buan Cine Theme Park is intended primarily as a movie studio for historic dramas and isn't meant as an amusement park like Universal Studios, it has also opened its doors to tourists, assuming there are many who'd want to check out the shooting locations for movies like "The King and The Clown" and "Hwangjinyi" ( not to be confused with the TV drama series starring Ha Ji-won).

I was one of the suckers who thought that the place was worth a look-see. The only good thing I dare say was that I burnt a few calories walking from Gyeokpo to find the Buan Cine Theme Park. It was a fine spring day and I thought I'd save bus or cab fare. I should've saved my time and visited the Monkey School instead ( no, not that either as I dislike seeing most animals perform silly tricks).

Reason I was disappointed? There wasn't anything going on. Just the reproductions of a Joseon dynasty palace, yangban's mansions, craftsmen's shops and farmers' quarters etc. standing there in the mid-day heat. I guess I was naively hoping against hope that I could see a movie or drama in the process of being shot. No such luck. A ghost-town would have more personality compared to the BCTP.   Ok to be fair to the place, perhaps I didn't go under the best of circumstances. Here are some suggestions on how to make the most of your visit there if you insist on going there.

1. Go in a group. This isn't the place for solo travellers. It only accentuates the empty solitude with only the video of "The King and the Clown" playing continuously for company. Better still, go with friends who've seen the movie umpteenth times and reenact your fav scenes from the movie.

2. Rent a costume ( take your pick of king, clown, eunuch or palace maidservant) and digicam yourself or each other in different sort of ridiculous poses all over the open-air studio.

3. Invite other tourists to watch your impromptu street performance and ask them to rate your acting or mime skills. ( Mask not obligatory but useful to mask your blushes if you're only capable of ham acting!)

4. You probably wouldn't be allowed on the high wire but you could draw an imaginary line in the sand and test your ability to tippy-toe across while pretending to be an old-time acrobat.

5. Try your hand at archery, horse-riding or simply strutting your stuff around the fake village while keeping your fingers crossed for any KBS talent-spotter who might just happen to be around. Who knows, this might just  get you your big break in Hallyuwood OR, better still, rent the DVD and stay indoors to salivate over the performances of Gam Woo Seong, Lee Jun Ki and Jeong Jin Yeong for the sixteenth time.

About other shooting locations:

MBC TV drama series, Queen Seondoek

sources:

http://www.korea.net/News/news/newsView.asp?serial_no=20071214022&part=108&SearchDay=

http://www.koreanwiz.org/at/tripC58.html
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=647808
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_King_and_the_Clown
http://www.asiatorrents.com/details.php?id=23d4dbc711feee785a1f15fb5f398d45d8bd5698
http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=260486
http://www.korea.net/kois/magazine/pictorialKoreaView.asp?Html_no=386
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/OO/OO_EN_13_1_2.jsp?cid=347386
http://www.knto.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264521&nearBy=accom&
http://www.wang-ui-namja.com/behind_philosophy.htm
http://english.tour2korea.com/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=309586

Tricoloured Manduguk Evokes Spring Colours

This pretty dish caught my eye recently. It's another example of how creativity can turn an ordinary Korean household into something that delights the eye as well as the palate. Mandu is usually beige but the lucky 800 guests who attended "Korean Night" on Jan. 28, 2010 during the Davos World Economic Forum got a chance to sample tricoloured manduguk ( Samsaek manduguk or three-color dumpling soup).

The dumplings were stuffed with kimchi, tofu and meat and  served as one of the appetizers prepared by the Korean chefs led by Park Hyo-nam, executive chef from the Millennium Seoul Hilton. I'm guessing the chefs used the juice from tomatoes and spinach to transform the pale mandu skins into a beautiful bouquet that evoked the cherry blossoms and pale green shoots of spring.

Wished the JoongAng Daily had featured more of Chef Park's creations. Would've been interesting to see what else he had done to make the Korean dishes aesthetically and appealing, taste-wise to non-Koreans.

source:

http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2917337

Which Flower ALMOST Became The National Flower of Korea?

Turns out the azalea, another spring flower, lost out to the Rose of Sharon when it came to deciding which flower should have pride of place as the national symbol. Never mind. It has at least claim to be part of the national psyche as one of Korea's most famous and beloved poems, Azaleas, by the poet, Kim So-wol (1902-1934),  For a fascinating article by Brother Anthony  or An Sonjae  on how the poem can be translated and interpreted in different ways, click here.

Meanwhile, here are two versions. The first is by Kim Jai-hiun.

If you go away,

sick of the sight of me,

I'll let you go without a word.
But I'll also gather by the armful
the azaleas flaming in Yaksan, Yongbyon
and scatter them in your path.
Tread gently
and lightly
as you pass.
If you go away,
sick of the sight of me,
I will weep no tears, though I die without you.
 

And here's the second by David McGunn:

When you turn away from seeing me
and go,
gently, without a word, I shall send you away.
From Mount Yak in Yôngbyôn,
Azaleas
I shall gather an armful and scatter them on your way.
Step after step away
on those flowers placed
before you, press deep, step lightly, and go.
When you turn away from seeing me
and go,
though I die, no, not a single tear shall fall.

Click here to hear the lyric set to music.

Probably the best way to enjoy these flowers is to head for the hills but if your ankles don't permit, then stick to the city parks as this plant can be seen in many parts of the country.

Or check out some of the springtime festivals in Korea which are dedicated to this flower.

 

Foreigners who are taught how to make Jindallae hwajeon (진달래 화전) a.k.a. azalea pancakes, should also be taught how to distinguish the edible common azalea ( Chamggot or true flower) from the poisonous royal azaleas which are named Gaeggot or dog flower.

These pretty Korean pancakes are made from kneaded glutinous rice flour and sugar, decorated with Rhododendron mucronulatum and pan-fried. No idea of they taste as good as they look. Hwajeon is usually served on Samjinal, the third day of the third lunar month. There's also a  traditional alcoholic beverage using azalea blossoms, called Tugyonju. Has anyone out there tried the stuff?

  

Sources:

http://www.korea.net/News/issues/NewsView.asp?serial_no=20070429005&part=106&SearchDay=
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Azalea
http://www.foreston.go.kr/english/info/43jeam.html
http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/opinon/2010/02/169_12227.html
http://www.korea.net/kois/eng_vns_read.asp?movie_no=246
http://www.rhodyman.net/rarhodytox.html
http://english.seoul.go.kr/gtk/news/reports_view.php?idx=1104&cPage=41
http://english.tour2korea.com/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=530701
http://www.newworldencyclopedia.org/entry/Azalea
http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/culturenlife/culturenlife_tour_detail.htm?No=1311
http://www.koreana.or.kr/months/news_view.asp?b_idx=533&lang=en&page_type=list
http://www.mcst.go.kr/english/issue/issueView.jsp?pSeq=1082
http://fulltilt.ncu.edu.tw/Content.asp?I_No=44&Period=4
http://www.korea.net/News/News/NewsView.asp?serial_no=20080408023&part=109&SearchDay=
http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/AK/AK_EN_1_6_6_1.jsp?sel=1&num=10&no=9
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Korean_pancake-Jindallae_hwajeon-02.jpg

BMK's When Flowers Bloom

Her voice's been described as having "viscosity and tension like a balloon just before blowing up". Not quite sure if that sounds complimentary and somehow "viscosity and tension" sounds like an oxymoron. No matter, Kim Hyun-jeong, a.k.a. Big Mama King ( not to be confused with the great vocal group, Big Mama) has been one of my favourite Kpop artistes but sadly she has not appeared on the music charts of late. My last two postings on spring reminded me of this song of hers which appeared back in 2005, "When Flowers Bloom".




BMK became known as one of the best jazz female vocalists in the country after she graduated from the Seoul Jazz Academy. There's an interesting anedote about how she once sneaked out of hospital with a plaster cast for the audition to enter the academy. These days, passion and talent may not be enough for musicians in Korea. From the way the girlie groups seem to be dominating the pop charts with their dance tunes and long legs, what chance does BMK have of enjoying a comeback?

for other postings on my fav Kpop musicians:

Lee Horan of Clazziquai fame but here she's with Ibadi
the smooth vocals of Bobby Kim
the late great Kim Kwang-suk
Lucid Fall
these guys sent the standard for boy bands in my book - g.o.d.
another lady with a great voice - Insooni
King of Ballads - Lee Seung-chul


sources:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DH3-Wa6LAZE
http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/entertainment/enter_words_detail.htm?No=15#
http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/entertainment/enter_artists_detail.htm?No=10315

Make A Date With Forsythia

Call me a botanical snob, but I'm not crazy about forsythia. Its particular yellow hue doesn't really get me excited but obviously it's got a special place in the hearts of Seoulites who have adopted it as one of its city symbols.

Forsythias, 개나리(Gae Na Ri) , native flowers of Korea, have also become associated with the rejuvenation of love, thanks to a local legend about a poet. He was inspired to write the verse below when he found his faithful wife patiently waiting for him on his return from a long journey.

"In the late spring, the canaries come,

The forsythia fades and the apricots fall,

And in the bamboo shade of my mountain home,

Forever abides, my love, my all."

There are even some festivals dedicated to this spring flower -Yudalsan in Mokpo,Jeollanam-do ( for instance, has  a Forsythia Festival. Eungbong-san, in Seoul also celebrates spring with its own forsythia festival in Seongdong-gu. For more information on spring festivals for 2010, click here.

What's interesting is that the flowers are one rare natural source of lactose ( milk sugar) which you usually only get from milk. Not sure if that discovery has led to any commercial application but apparently the fruit of the plant  with its antibiotic properties, has been used traditionally to reduce fevers, swelling and eczema. Trust the Koreans to have developed a way to make liquor out of forsythia as well.

Koreans have found another use for the forsythia - the sticks are used to play a Korean string instrument called ajaeng. Some musicians these days, though, may prefer to use a horsehair bow instead of the stick as they think it produces a more mellow vibe.

If you are or plan to be in Korea this month, check out this chart below to plan your date with the forsythia.

For other articles on spring flowers, please click below:
posting on magnolias
posting on cherry blossoms

source:
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/FU/FU_EN_15.jsp?cid=966240
http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/nation/2008/03/115_20322.html
http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/art/2009/11/153_42923.html
http://www.korea.net/News/news/newsView.asp?serial_no=20080502018&part=109&SearchDay=
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Forsythia
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ajaeng
http://www.yourhome.ca/homes/outdoorliving/article/414774--forsythia-triumphs-over-snobbery
http://www.korea.net/korea/e_movie.asp?code=W0701&id=791&kdepth2=Festivals&Movies&page=21
http://www.mcst.go.kr/english/issue/issueView.jsp?pSeq=1082
http://www.ecplaza.net/news/13/11230/koreas_prime_springtime.html
http://books.google.com.my/books?id=n3MgSchHBjYC&pg=PA146&lpg=PA146&dq=forsythia+%2B+korean+legend&source=bl&ots=RvYWt_PMx1&sig=7SABOj8a6-X9uM4EuShHbrsVrPo&hl=en&ei=YRSPS7ffCIy_rAe8zaSLCw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CAYQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q=forsythia%20%2B%20korean%20legend&f=false

Much Ado About Magnolias

During my first visit to Korea during spring ( my very first  and only experience of spring in 2007), my mind was on cherry blossoms. But the first thing that caught my eye on the first day of that visit was a leafless tree just outside the main temple of Donghak-sa with elegant white blooms. Didn't know it at that time but I soon learnt I had just seen my first magnolias.

 목련꽃 "Mongnan - kkot" a.k.a. magnolias have started appearing in places like Jeju

- a sign that spring's just around the corner.

Here are some interesting things which I've just learnt about these "aristocrats of ancient lineage" as described by E.H. 'Chinese' Wilson. It's hard to believe but these trees existed even before the bees ( 20 -95 million years ago) so the flowers developed pretty hardy petals so that beetles could crawl into them to aid in pollination. The ancestors of these trees have survived ice ages  and continental drifts and now their progeny are scattered all over parts of Asia as far south as Sulawesi and as far west as Cuba.

 Who's lucky enough to live in an apartment next to a magnolia tree?

Magnolias also have a great track record as hardy trees which can deal effectively with air pollution so it’s not surprising to see them in town gardens. They have the enviable distinction of looking even more resplendent as they get older. Hmmm, maybe I should be reincarnated as a magnolia tree with creamy white or yellow or magenta blooms in my next life. ( just kidding).

Found this other comment by Orson S. Card which gave me pause for thought: .".. magnolias shed worse than cats. And not delicate little brown pine needles. These are big sloppy brown leaves, thick as cardboard and about the size of a brochure. On top of that, they drop ugly cones that are big enough you can sprain your ankle if you step on one in the dark." The Japs wouldn't agree with Mr. Card as they use the leaves of the magnolia obovata to wrap food and as cooking dishes in certain parts of the country.

Aside from looking extremely decorative, magnolia trees have proven rather useful. The Chinese have used the fragrant bark of M.officinalis ( hou po  OR 厚朴) as part of their traditional medicine as it's believed to have anti-anxiety properties and may help to  reduce allergic and asthmatic reactions. Buddhist monks in Haeinsa have turned the wood of silver magnolias into printing blocks for their sutras.

They've also been adopted as symbols - the white magnolia of Daejeon represents friendship while Siebold's Magnolia is the national flower of North Korea. The flowers stand for grace and elegance in the hearts and minds of most Koreans but for many Budhhists, the magnolias symbolize the attainment of nirvana after long and painful suffering.

  

Unfortunately my few pics of the magnolias didn't turn out so great with the overcast sky and the poor timing in the evening. So I'm grateful to those who've posted these lovely pics on the Net - thanks for sharing these magnolias with the rest of us!

sources:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnolia

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TT5wCejDrPU
http://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/house-and-home/gardening/full-of-eastern-promise-magnolias-are-a-magnificent-harbinger-of-summer-anna-pavord-takes-great-pleasure-in-finding-the-right-plant-to-suit-her-dorset-garden-744573.html
http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/opinon/2009/12/162_41949.html
http://www.lifeinkorea.com/travel/skyongsang/tripitaka.htm
http://www.mortonarb.org/tree-collections/taxonomic-groups/flowering-trees/magnolia.html
http://www.hatrack.com/osc/reviews/everything/2009-06-14.shtml
http://www.gaok.or.kr/eng/e03_infor/infor060.jsp

Letter to Ajummas Who Want Their Daughters To Be Like Kim Yuna

Dear ajummas,
From the youtube clip here, there seems to be a growing trend in which some parents may be pushing their children onto the ice-rinks in the hopes that their children can copy the phenomenal sporting cum commercial success of Kim Yuna.
This is an appeal to ajummas harbouring such ambitions, please don't kill your child's interest in the sport. Take a closer look at her ankles and medical records and ask yourself if that's what you want for your child.
Don't want to take anything away from Queen Yuna's achievement but I'd be more assured if little girls in Korea want to be the best that they can be in whatever they're good at and in whatever they enjoy instead of copies of 2010's Olympic gold medallist in skating for women.
Sincerely,
ajumma

Happy Sam-il to Koreans!

Found these pictures - photos and paintings related to the Sam-il Movement, the Declaration of Independence which started on the 1st of March, 1919. Has ROK made any movie on this important page in its history? Would be interesting to see it done from the woman's point of view -whether it would be the wife, mother or daughter of one of the thirty-three nationalists who signed this declaration to oppose the Japanese annexation of Korea or one of the women seen here in the public demonstrations which, tragically led to bloody reprisals by the Japanese.

Would like to do some research into the subject but am strapped for time these days so this short posting will have to serve as a reminder to me to dig deeper into this tumultuous time in the history of Korea.

sources:
http://www.tparents.org/Library/Religion/Cta/Korea-J/jp-hist1.htm

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/March_1st_Movement
http://theseoulite.com/?p=2143
http://blog.cripchick.com/archives/1433

When NOT To Take The Road Taken, Naesosa Part 5

From an email sent in 2007:

Went for a walk up the hill behind Naeso-sa. Made the mistake of straying from the main path to follow what I thought was a short cut trail - it looked promising as there was a paper trail like the ones left for Hash House runners except these were tied to the branches of trees, so I thought very naively that it was an even more promising sign.

It  turned out to be a steeper trail than I thought and a few times I thought of turning back but it was so steep that I preferred to forge ahead toward the unknown in the hope of finding the main trail down again. No such luck, it was uphill all the way till I reached a low peak and spent a few minutes on the windy ridge.

Was tempted to wait for rescue party or other climbers to show me an easier route down at first but cold wind made me decide not to wait for any knight in shining armour and rely instead on my trusty improvised walking stick. Luckily along the ridge, I found another slightly easier on the knees trail and  found my way back to the temple safe and sound. 

I like to take minor risks but I could’ve kicked myself for venturing off the beaten path because the experience was more pain than pleasure. Moral of this pathetic story: Never assume paper trails are meant for me!

An Informal Temple Stay, Naesosa Part 4

Love the way the ancient pine tree frames the main temple of Naesosa  ( Dae-Ungbojeon ).

What's distinctive about this building is that it was originally built without a single nail.

I love informal temple stays - first of all, most of the temples are usually situated away from the noise and pollution of cities and well-preserved in well-maintained national or provincial parks.  I can stay on the temple grounds, partake of healthy vegetarian meals, soak in the peaceful atmosphere of the temple as well as the wider surroundings which are usually pristine pieces of nature without having to follow a regimented schedule of marathon meditation sessions. Of course, I'm obliged to wake up before dawn to pay my respects to Buddha but I don't mind because it forces me to sleep earlier.

Fine  example of wooden carvings of lotus and chrysanthemum flowers on the flower Salmun ( doors).There are eight such doors on the front facade of the Dae-ung-bojeon.

Another plus of staying in the temple is that one can admire  the craftsmanship of temple architecture at a leisurely pace - something one can't do if one were to join a tour group or visit the temple as a rushed day trip. Moreover, you can admire the beauty of the temple surroundings in its different moods throughout the day - what's it like in the darkness before dawn? How does it look under the mid-day sun? Does it have the same atmosphere at twilight?

Die-hards of course may elect to stay longer to witness the changing of the seasons. In spring, Naesosa may not have that  many cherry trees but the ones that I saw were very pretty indeed. Perhaps they were even more attractive because there weren't too many of them on the temple grounds.

If you prefer to visit in autumn, the maple trees on this avenue leading to the temple are a charming sight as well. Winter is another evocative season when the snow-clad temple looks like the perfect setting for  inspiring Zen poems.

Another thing I like to check out in the temples in Korea is the water. There's something primeval whenever one sits around a bonfire and there's a similar feeling each time I quench my thirst with the spring waters of each temple. To drink, see and hear the cool waters trickling down the stone basins is a simple soothing pleasure one can never tire of during temple stays.

Was mentally rubbing my hands in glee when I first saw the sizeable pavilion housing the Dharma musical instruments as I thought I had the chance to listen to the monks doing their fabulous thing on the drums. But I was disappointed to find a watered-down version in Naesosa - not the same magical sounds that I'd heard in Baekdam-sa or Gap-sa or even Songgwang-sa. Maybe my timing was off for that night. I've found that different temples seem to have different approaches to the Dharma instruments.

The bronze bell, in Beomjonggakwas made during the Goryeo period. Three images of Buddha, called Samjonsang are engraved on it.

The original name of Naeso-sa was Sorae -sa , meaning "a place which one revisits to be reborn". It was enough for me to be rejuvenated during my brief temple sojourn. Check  into a temple without being in a group and even if ( or perhaps because ) you may not spend too much chatting with others, the peace and solitude may prove to be the perfect antidote to the stresses of city life. Try it and discover it for yourself.

sources:

http://www.cha.go.kr/servlet/Download?fid=TWpBPQ==&tname=Y2hndWlkZQ==

http://search.korea.net:8080/intro_korea2008/travel/pdf/01_19.pdf

Getting to Naesosa, Part 3

Getting there - take the bus to Buan Bus Terminal and then board the bus which goes around  Byeonsan-bando ( services are between 6 30 am and 830 am every 20 -30 minutes; trip to Naesosa takes about 50 minutes)

Get off at the Naesosa bus stop and walk past the usual row of shops, sikdangs ( restaurants) and minbaks to reach the fir-lined entrance to Naesosa.

The fir-tree avenue gives way to a broader path flanked by cherry and maple trees. BTW, this path was featured in one episode of Daejanggeum when the heroine played by Lee Young-Ae returned to the palace after taking care of a nanny to the royal family. The pond where the lead character, Janggeum sits mournfully throwing pebbles into the water after a tiff with her mentor, can be found on one side of this lane.

Fortunately for me, there was ample room for me to stay overnight in the temple, provided of course, that I followed their basic rules. In summer, I suspect, it would be difficult for single travellers to stay here as Naesosa is popular with groups who come for summer camps.

sources:
http://www.cha.go.kr/servlet/Download?fid=TWpBPQ==&tname=Y2hndWlkZQ==

http://search.korea.net:8080/intro_korea2008/travel/pdf/01_19.pdf

Templestay in Naesosa, Part 2

Stayed one night in Naesosa when I visited the place in spring of 2007 so can't claim to have had the usual temple stay( such as the tea ceremony, meditation sessions or 108 prostrations)  but I did wake up around 4 30 am for the temple ceremony and ate vegetarian meals. Funny though, the thing that sticks in my mind about the brief stay is hanging out my laundry to dry on the lines. Can't explain why I remember that humdrum chore.

Would be nice to experience templestay in winter, though. Can't go anywhere else so one might as well stay indoors to concentrate on meditation, contemplation or reflection.

On the Daejanggeum Trail - Naesosa Part 1

Naeso-sa is one of the more easily accessible temples in Korea so I guess that's why there were busloads of school children and local tourists trooping to it when I visited Byeonsan-bando ( Peninsula) in the spring of 2007. I wondered how many of them were making their way there as devotees of the hugely popular TV drama, Daejanggeum or Jewel of the Palace starring Lee Young-Ae. The place is also a popular location for shooting outdoor scenes for other TV dramas such as Seodongyo, Lovers in Prague and Damo.

sources:
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/CU/CU_EN_8_5_1_6.jsp

To Go OR Not To Go In Winter - Letter for Christina

A reader from Malaysia who's never experienced winter wants to know if it's a good time to visit Korea. Here's my extended reply:

source: Yonhap News - http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/news/news_photo_detail.htm?No=14528

Dear Christina,
Here's my two cents on whether or not to visit Korea in winter. First, let me play devil's advocate and list some reasons why it may not be the best time to go.

1. It's too freaking cold to go out especially if you're from a sunny clime unless of course you're a tougher cookie than I am

2. Your travel plans may be hampered by snowstorms which have delayed flights, cancelled ferries and slowed down trains and buses.

3. You won't have so many hours of daylight to travel around to enjoy the sights

4. You'll blow your travel budget on cups of hot coffee or soups to keep yourself warm

5. Your complexion will suffer because of the extreme dry air but you can't pack a full bottle of face cream in a post 9-11 world with tighter airport security

Now, here are some reasons why winter's a good time to travel to Korea:

1. It's a great place to learn skiing. I read somewhere that even Russians, who obviously have more snow, prefer to ski in Korea because of the wonderful facilities.

2. You can take part in many winter festivals which seem to be a great deal of fun for both the participants and observers.

3.  I like to ask Koreans that I met about their favourite season and quite a number cite winter as their preferred time of year.Why? Answers range from the chance to get decked out in winter woolies, to the outdoor sports to one person's reply which is the most intriguing, " I love the smell of winter". Go to check out for yourself why so many would fall in love with this season.

So, Christina, if you've got your heart set on experiencing winter, here are a few humble suggestions from a not-so-seasoned traveller ( when it comes to winter, that is!):

a. travel in a tour group instead of braving it as a solo traveller. That way, the burden of ensuring you're warm and safe falls on the shoulders of the experienced Korean tour guide who should know how to deal with delays

b. Layer, layer, layer - instead of packing four winter jackets into your luggage, just wear layers. The same goes for your feet and legs. Ask around before investing in a suitable pair of shoes.

c. head straight for the supermarket as soon as you touch down in Korea to look for handy hand-warmers and naeboks. For an article on naeboks, click here.

d. carry a thermos flask so you can have your own coffee/ tea/ hot beverage wherever you go.

e. learn the basic Korean words  such as snow storm, blizzard, minus 40 temperatures, etc. to listen out for weather forecasts on the local telly or radio

Cheers and happy travelling!
ajumma

In The Mood For A Song In Three Four Time

Listening to this is like drinking cool spring water and I don't mean your usual Evian or Perrier. The female half of Clazziquai, Lee Horan is doing her own thing with drummer/guitarist Gur Jeong and bassist/guitarist Justin Kim. Together, they're IBADI, using apparently a traditional Korean word for 'celebration'.

Here are two version of "Secret Waltz" with Lee Seung Yuel (another great voice) from Ibadi's mini-album, "Songs for Ophelia".



The sound quality is better on this MV. Haven't found the English lyrics to this number but will post as soon as possible. Meanwhile, just sit back, kick off your shoes and enjoy. For more on Ibadi, click here.



sources:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d9Kig9RZrfc&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JW-fVdVosQQ&feature=related
http://www.last.fm/music/Ibadi/+images/5482881
http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/entertainment/enter_artists_detail.htm?No=104185

Where's The Pollack?

Two clichés in K drama: First, a fierce ajumma hits a young upstart with the wooden sticks used to beat or flatten the laundry OR second, she uses a stick-like object which turns out to be pollack, a wind-dried fish popular in Korea. Unfortunately, over-fishing and over-eating of even the young pollack may have driven this fish to the edge of extinction so ajummas inclined to whack the living daylights out of someone may be hard-pressed to look for a handy pollack. ( The info for the graph created below was taken from the JoongAng Daily. )

Alarmed by this trend, the East Sea Fisheries Institute of the National Fisheries Research and Development Center has offered ten times the market rate for anyone who brings in a live pollack so that the experts there can retrieve the eggs for a rehabilitation program. Turns out it isn’t so easy to breed pollack in captivity. So the alternative has been to collect eggs from freshly –caught pollack.

Hopefully they’ll find a way of reversing the trend in the declining pollack population so that future generations of Koreans and tourists can enjoy pollack soup and fiery ajummas won’t lack dried-up pollacks whenever they feel like whacking someone.

"This fish is called myeongtae when they are alive in the sea, but they are called saengtae when they are caught. They are named dongtae when frozen and when they are hung and dried here, they are finally called hwangtae. Since they are string-skewered through their noses, they are called hwangtae kodari." ( quote from KBS World Radio article, "Discover Inje's Treasure In the Winter Season")

For KBS World Radio feature article on pollack, click here.
http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2916198

Letter to a Nun In Naksan-sa, Part 5

To A Nun I Met in Naksan-sa,

There I was , stopping outside Hong-ryeong-am in the autumn of 2004, feeling a little more than disappointed and cheated because the sunrise I had been expecting at Uisangdae didn’t materialize. And there you were, apparently just having finished your morning meditations or morning chores with a little time to spare before your next round of chants and prostrations. Can’t remember how we started chatting, if one can even call it that as my Korean was just as limited as your English. But it’s amazing how far a little goodwill and a dictionary can take us.

Despite the language barrier, I think somehow we managed to work out that we shared the same birth year and I think I managed to ask you rather impertinently why you chose to be a nun. You smiled enigmatically ( or was it awkwardly?) because you didn’t want or know how to respond to my presumptuous question.

Our stilted conversation was punctuated by quiet long looks out to sea. My irritation was giving way to your calming smile and soon it was time for you to return to your temple routine. So I was more than a little surprised when you gestured for me to wait as you disappeared and reappeared with a bag of rice cakes and sweets which you put into my hands. My jaw dropped because I was more accustomed to seeing people giving things to Buddhist monks and nuns. Yet there you were - someone who had obviously given up so much, giving up even more to a stranger.

Hurriedly I rifled through my day backpack for something to reciprocate but my main supply of snacks was in the minbak where I’d left my main bag. You smiled reassuringly as if to say it didn’t matter, that you weren’t expecting anything, that you were simply happy to give me a parting present. Some people may think – how embarrassing to be at the receiving end and to accept things from a nun when I should be giving something to you. But it felt like a blessing because your kindness and generosity of spirit more than made up for the sunrise I had missed. Gamsa-hamnida.

Sincerely,

Ajumma

Uneasy on Naksan Beach, Naksan Part 5

Summer shots of Naksan Beach are rather scary. I can just imagine it - The massive crowds in and out of the water. Territorial disputes over space to spread one’s beach towel on the sand. Public humiliation of exposing one’s cellulite in skimpy summer shorts. The long queues to rent a beach umbrella or to buy an ice lolly. But when I find myself on Naksan Beach in autumn, the emptiness is also a little intimidating though of a different sort.

The winds are chilly with a hint of winter and the walk down the empty beach is a little discomfiting as one can’t hide in a crowd here in this season. I feel like a hermit crab without my shell as I’m about the only one on the beach, exposed to the eyes of the locals who must be wondering who this crazy tourist is to be wandering alone on the shoreline.

The ajummas in the sikdangs ( restaurants) who are usually kept busy serving raw fish ( saeng-seon hoe – pronounced “hwey”) are sitting around, chatting or watching TV drama serials. I’m hardly likely to venture into any of these eateries for these reasons 1.I’m not into “ raw squid, flatfish, sea cucumber, abalone, sea urchin or croaker” ( quoting from the Yangyang Travel Guide) 2. I’m on a shoestring budget 3. As a solo traveler, I’m not likely to order an expensive seafood meal usually served to groups (from at least 50,000 to 70,000 won, 2004 prices)

So what else is there to do in Naksan in this low season? I should’ve checked out the Hoe Centre at the base of the cliff where Uisang-dae is perched just to see how Koreans prepare their raw seafood dishes. If I had checked the Yangyang guidebook carefully, I would’ve also visited the Naksan Yellow Ochre Fire Kiln ( sauna) to try out its various facilities such as the natural jade room, the sauna with jade-pebbled heated floor and the herbal steam sauna. ( Bus No 9 goes along National Road No. 7 between Yangyang and Sokcho every 20 minutes , get off at Josan)

A note on getting to Naksan: Took a shuttle bus from Osaek Greenyard Hotel, in the southern part of Soraksan. After a short walk past shops selling a wide assortment of dried seafood, I found a bewildering array of minbaks and yeogwans just before the beach. Not too difficult finding a place to stay during autumn though I’m sure available rooms would be hard to come by in summer. Paid 20,000 won for a small room in a minbak ( October, 2004 prices)

sources:
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264622
http://eng.yangyang.go.kr/page/foreign/eng/index.jsp
http://www.korea.net/news/news/newsview.asp?serial_no=20080704010
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Korea_style_raw_fish.jpg

On Stolen Shoes, Shoe Waffles and Eating Real Shoes

This photo story  from the JoongAng Daily caught my eye only because my friend's Timberland shoes were stolen a few days ago in broad daylight. A shoe thief has been plaguing the neighbourhood and to my surprise, some Koreans have also fallen victim to the same kind of petty criminals. Obviously though, the Korean thief has more exacting tastes as he only went for luxury branded footwear.

JoongAng's caption: Sole Searching

His M.O. also reminded me of a story I'd just heard of Muslims having their shoes stolen outside the mosques. But this guy in Korea operated outside funeral halls where people have to remove their shoes as a mark of respect. He must've had a shoe fetish from the size of his collection seized by the police who eventually caught up with him. Wonder if my friend will be as fortunate as the gentleman in the photo above who has the chance to recover his stolen Pradas, if he can find his own pair amid the thief''s shoe collection which might just rival  that of Imelda Marcos.

Don't put your foot in your mouth - try a Vans shoe waffle instead!

Then in an earlier posting by the same online paper, I spotted this pic featuring waffles in the shape of sneakers as part of a marketing campaign jointly launched by Vans, a sportswear brand and Kia Motors. The "Vans Waffle Tour" will visit different cities in Korea to give away free waffles while promoting Vans' new line of sports shoes and Kia Soul, the new crossover vehicle. Not sure how the shoe-shaped waffles will go down with the locals but here's a German guy,  Werner Herzog, who had to eat his shoes literally when he lost a wager. I stumbled upon this while checking out the expression, "I'll eat my shoes" ( to express complete confidence about something that one thinks is highly unlikely to happen.) For the full story, click here.

Werner Herzog eats his shoe - Bon Appetit!

Sources:

http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2916758

http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2916733

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ymyiRXCszc

Rising From The Ashes, Naksan-sa Part 4

I visited Naksan-sa during my 2004 visit to Korea in autumn and then  in April, 2005, I was dismayed to hear that the temple had fallen victim to a forest fire. No thanks to dry and strong winds, it had spread and destroyed most of the temple buildings along with many important artefacts such as a 15th century bronze bell.

A sorry sight - Naksan-sa after the 2005 fire.

It wasn’t the first time the temple had been ravaged by the flames. Naksan-sa had been burnt down before when the Mongol invaders over-ran the country in the 13th century. Its reconstruction took place at different times during the 15th and 17th centuries under the Joseon kings. Again, during the Korean War of 1950-53, it was razed to the ground and rebuilt in late 1953. In its most recent reincarnation, Naksan-sa has been restored within four years after the 2005 disaster like the legendary phoenix rising from the ashes.

Reconstruction work on the temple flooring

It’s a remarkable story of resilience and community effort. In his speech at the completion ceremony on October 12, 2009, the abbot of Naksan-sa said: “I bow my head and humbly thank all the monks and nuns of the Jogye Order, Buddhist devotees, and Korean citizens for helping in the difficult four-year restoration process. We will do our best to continue in the restoration to return Naksansa Temple to the hearts of the Korean people. It is important to not only restore the buildings, but also the 1000-year cultural heritage and the spirit of the ancestors.”

Even the surrounding walls get a new lease on life

A local museum now houses a violin and cello which were built from wood that survived the fire on the temple grounds. Check out the flash presentation which is based on the story of the temple. Aside from the inspiring morality tale about endurance and fortitude, one wonders if measures are in place to protect such historic and religious buildings from similar fires. For another story of a temple which was also a fire victim, click here.

Reconstruction Project Completed by 2009!

Sources

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naksansa#2005_fire_and_reconstruction
http://www.buddhapia.com/buddhapi/eng/temple/korexp/html/bu11.html
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=312871
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=309343
http://english.triptokorea.com/english/viewtopic.php?t=5925
http://eng.koreatemple.net/travel/view_temple.asp?temple_id=32
http://www.koreanbuddhism.net/jokb/press/view.asp?article_seq=5865&page=1&search_key=&search_value=
http://www.knto.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264186&nearBy=site&
http://www.kimsch.net/flash/dream-en.swf
http://www.land.go.kr/gTra.do?tra=enudestination&cid=3204
http://german.visitkorea.or.kr/ger/SI/SI_GE_3_1_1_2.jsp?cid=335521