Ajumma's Journal

Got a little weary of the stark whiteness of winter pics so I've decided to post a summery pic instead. Actually as my postings for the next few days will feature Jeonju, this photo of Deokjin Park serves as a sneak preview into this city.

Unfortunately I visited Jeonju in the wrong season - it was too late in September to see the lotus blooms cover the pond. ( The best months are July and August.) So my own photos turned out to be pretty dull instead of pretty in pink.

Citizens of Jeonju have Park Gi-soon to thank for being able to enjoy Deokjin Park for free as this wealthy gentleman donated this private park to the city in 1929. Much earlier, the pond used to be part of a swamp before it was coverted into a moat to defend a castle which once stood here.

Ajummas from around the country used to wash their hair or even bathe in the waters of Deokjin as part of the ancient annual rites when they prayed to the sea deity for good health. These days, things are less exciting - just tourist groups who may exclaim with disappointment when they realise they're in the right place at the wrong time.

sources:

http://www.korea.net/news/news/newsView.aspserial_no=20070702044&part=108&SearchDay=2007.07.03

http://www.knto.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=313019
http://www.igougo.com/journal-j12910-Jeonju-Where_Dynasties_Begin.html#ReviewID:1152391

Hardy Walkers Making Their Way Up A Winter Wonderland, Mudeung-san near Gwangju

Are these brave or reckless souls? Don't know whether to envy them or shake my head in perplexity as they prefer to contend with the frigid temperatures instead of staying indoors and enjoying the comforts of an ondol.

Back in the city and highways, drivers can look forward to fewer traffic snarls induced by snowstorms in the near future as geo-thermal technology will be used to prevent snow from building up on roads. The Korea Expressway Corporation plans to install pipes 5 cm below the surface of roads which will have heated water coursing through them.

Sounds very much like the ondol system! What will they think of next???

source:
http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/news/news_Sc_detail.htm?No=69652
http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/news/news_photo_detail.htm?No=14239¤t_page=

What do you get when you put a sorikkun with a gosu and buk together?

Answer: Pansori

Here's a quick breakdown, not in alphabetical order, of the main elements of a pansori performance:

Pansori - a genre of Korean traditional music. The term 'pan' means "a place where many people gather", and 'sori' stands for "sound".
Sorikkun/ kwangdae - the pansori singer
Gosu - the drummer who accompanies the pansori singer
Buk - the barrel drum used in a pansori performance
??? - fan used by singer for dramatic effect and to signal transitions in the story
Aniris - descriptive speech
Changs - song
Chuimsae - short exclamations to encourage or spur on the singer; made by the drummer or audience
Madang - a full story narrated and sung by a pansori singer; made up of aniris alternating with changs.
Sopyonje - feminine style of singing from south-western Korea (inspiration for the film Sopyonje)
Tongp'yonje - the more "masculine" style

BTW, did you know that pansori singers need super-human lungs, memories and stamina? Performing the full version of "Song of Chunhyang" without any breaks, for example, would take more than EIGHT hours.
I wonder about the stamina of the audience as well.

source:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pansori
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ezljMPj9c4w&feature=related

photo credit: Yonhap

Dear ladies,

Talk about sticktoitivity !!! ( have I spelled that correctly????)

Temperatures may be hitting all-time lows in Seoul but there's no dousing or dampening your fiery determination. I solemnly salute you for holding your 900th rally on Wednesday 13th January 2010 in front of the Japanese Embassy.

Just realized from the JoongAng Daily that you've held this rally every Wednesday since 16th January, 1992 to fight for your right to a formal apology and compensation from the Japanese army.

Every time now that I feel lazy about maintaining this blog, or doing what I'm supposed to be doing, I'll remind myself of your inspiring example.

Yours most respectfully,

ajumma

source:

http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2915289Yonhap

Just saw a news snippet on the website of KBS World Radio that was a pleasant surprise: the Seoul Metropolitan Government is coming to the rescue of some wild animals by providing them food in this particularly harsh winter.

According to the report,"30 tons of vegetable by-products from wholesale markets and 800 kilograms of grains" will be distributed along eight different habitats along the Han River.

What puzzles me is this: Where on earth are SMG workers themselves going to find food for the critters?

Earlier on, the JoongAng Daily had featured the photo of an empty holding area in the Garak Market in southern Seoul as heavy snowstorms disrupted the supply lines. Prices of food items have skyrocketed in recent days because of the traffic snarls. Great intentions, SMG but can you really walk the talk? Hope YONHAP can feature soon photos of the birds and other animals along the Han River getting some food.
source:
http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/news/news_Dm_detail.htm?No=69564&id=Dm
http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2914964
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKKehbSZ9waZHniYf7SUsPXONTqgfRPMhVdkggMj9P_XpTb07D_kiFA60Y6sYxgL-m8SSAzaE1x6658tCkG0L8Q4OU20jm_kWEr_0y9GcZZGeom7OEJgPuWO6oShoSDwFM-8AZCyCNKtc/s320/han+river-1.jpg

If one could ascribe gender to temples, I'd call Geumsan-sa, a 'she'. There's something particularly feminine about her graceful curves and she does look particularly fetching dressed in the snowy-white mantle of winter, doesn't she?

On a more serious note, this temple is one of Korea's most important Buddhist temples. Believed to have been founded in 599 A.D. It developed into an important monastery in the 8th century and sadly like many other temples during the Japanese invasion in the 16th century, was razed to the ground and subsequently reconstructed in 1635. The Mireukjeon Hall, National Treasure No. 62, is the "only remaining three-storey traditional structure in Korea".

It's also probably one of the few buildings which has special names for each level. Daejabojeon (Hall of Great Mercy and Treasure) is situated on the first floor while the second floor is Yonghwajihoe (Gathering of Dragon and Beauty), and the third floor is called Mireuk-jeon (Hall of Maitreya). Pay attention as well to the supporting columns which get more and more slender, the higher they are.

A short drive from Jeonju, Geumsan-sa is also easily accessible by bus. For more information, click here.

source:
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=262538
http://www.orientalarchitecture.com/koreasouth/ruralchungbuk/geumsansa_gallery.php?p=geumsansa02.jpg

Promised someone that I'd post a pic of Naejangsan in winter so am glad to have found one. Here' s a pic of the entrance to the famous national park. Looks like a pretty white bower to stroll beneath while the snow's fresh and crunchy to the feet.

Pic credit:
Yonhap News

Love or dread the snows of winter ?

Sorry for pointing out the banal obvious but

it's all a matter of context and perspective, isn't it?

Pic from Chosun Ilbo ( Jan 5, 2010)

Army special forces are in training on Mount Hwangbyeong in Gangwon Province on January 8, when the mercury fell below minus 20 degrees Celsius. ( Pic from Yonhap News, caption from KBS World )

I get it that someone's gotta shovel the snow while others can frolic in their winter wonderland but conducting snow drills in sub-zero temperatures is character or morale- building ???? Somebody please explain the rationale to me.

See related posting for autumn.

sources:

http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/news/news_photo_detail.htm?No=14211

It’s too early to think of Christmas shopping for 2010 but now I know what could make good gifts for those who live in temperate countries like Korea. With all the recent reports about heavy snow and freezing temperatures in many parts of the country, giving someone such heating pads like the strawberry pair the child is holding, seem ideal and practical. Though this popular winter product may seem a little too cutesy and childish for some, I’d throw personal pride and vanity aside for the sake of warm hands. According to Yonhap, these portable and reusable heating pads can be popped into a microwave for 30 seconds to enjoy comforting heat which can last for three hours.

What I have bought from Korea before, though, is one of those electric heating pads which Koreans prefer to use to keep themselves warm in the cooler nights of spring or autumn before it makes economic sense to use the ondol. At that time, I hadn’t heard of Lee Kyo-soo’s doctoral thesis which speculates that electromagnetic waves from such appliances could cause stress and insomnia. Dad hasn’t been complaining but I guess I should check with his doctor about increased cortisol levels.

Another way Koreans are keeping warm this winter is by wearing naeboks ( learnt a new word today!). These are undergarments which have come back in fashion as comfort, environmental and financial concerns take priority over fear of looking old-fashioned and bulky and the convenience of indoor heating. More young people are open to the idea of wearing naebok, apparently, especially when the new styles look decidedly ungrand-motherly. It’s not clear though if they plan to wear red naebok for good luck for the coming Lunar New Year ( a quaint tradition in Korea, I’ve just learned as well).

Sources:
http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2914949
http://www.korea.net/news/news/newsView.asp?serial_no=20070222012&part=107&SearchDay=&page=51
http://www.korea.net/News/News/NewsView.asp?serial_no=20091214014
http://www.korea.net/News/News/newsView.asp?serial_no=20091214007
http://aidanroh.en.ecplaza.net/

Daedunsan Provincial Park reminds me of a small but fiery red pepper - what the park lacks in size and height, it amply makes up for it in dramatic photo-opportunities with its panoramic views as well as demands it makes on your knees, ankles and soles.

For the first time in my life, I stood above “a sea of clouds” and in that other-worldly atmosphere, it was hard to believe that the city of Jeonju was only about an hour’s drive away.

I had the good fotune to visit this tiny park in Jeollakbuk-do one year with a tour group. It was one occasion when I meekly followed my tour guide and didn’t stray from the group as we all clambered into the cable car that took us near the summit, Macheondae ( 878m).

That’s not particularly high but I wasn’t the fittest of folks and I was already huffing and puffing on the stiff climb from the cable car station to the Geumgang Scenic Bridge ( “ a 50 m-long cable bridge stretched precariously between two rock pinnacles”, according to the Lonely Planet).

Anyway, our tour guide was only prepared to allow us to go as far as the end of the Bridge and discouraged us from venturing beyond. the Samseon Stairway ( “an incredibly steep and long steel cable stairway”).

If, however, you manage to reach the top, you can relish a “I’m the King of the World” moment as you may be able to see as far as Chuncheongnam-do. But you’re only entitled to that feeling if you didn’t cheat by using the cable car service and did the whole 1.7 km walk up from the main ticket office past Dongsim Rock to Macheondae.

A longer ( 2.2 km) and perhaps even more scenic route can be enjoyed if you start from the Yongmungol Ticket Office which is further up the road from the main tourist village here. You can take a break at Sinseon-am ( hermitage) and along the way, take a short detour to explore Yongmun-gul ( cave) before continuing onto Yongmungul 3 Sam-geo-ri and turning left onto the ridge to head towards Macheondae. You can follow the first route on the way back down. At least, that’s what I’d like to do, if I ever revisit this place which is also dubbed “ The Geumgang or Diamond Mountain of Honam Area” and also the “Sogeumgang of South Korea”.

Sources:
http://theseoultimes.com/ST/?url=/ST/db/read.php?idx=5824
http://tour.chungnam.net/ctnt/engl/tour/02/tour.02.003.04.html
http://www.flickr.com/photos/theworldismycanvas/2417679762/
http://www.travelblog.org/Asia/South-Korea/Jeollabuk-do/Jinan/Maisan-Provincial-Park/blog-233258.html
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/asis/wallpaper/0710/paper0710_04_1024.jpg
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/AC/AC_EN_4_8.jsp?cid=349790
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=309527

Three cheers for Park Chan-wook who was recently voted Best Director of the year by his fellow film directors. Though the thumbs-up was primarily for his latest film, Thirst ( which I've yet to see), I'd like to think his body of work has something to do with the accolade as well.

Anyway, watched again his Sympathy for Lady Vengeance recently as I was in a nasty mood. But I think Park's handling of music in this movie and the wintry scenes are partly reason for my revisiting this compelling work.

Those heading for Korea in the next few days, be forewarned. Public warnings about impending snowstorms have been issued to those living in Korea.

26,500 workers have been mobilized to sprinkle 800 tons of salt on the major roads in Seoul City. The snowplows have been working overtime as the season for shovelling snow has begun.

Unfortunately the snow has fallen too fast for the calcium chloride to do its job effectively of preventing the buildup of the ice. The snowfall apparently has hit record levels – Seoul has already experienced at least 25.7 cm of snow ( its heaviest in 41 years) and the temperature is expected to drop to minus 13 degrees Celcius by Wednesday, 6th January, 2010.

So drivers and pedestrians in Korea, do drive or tread carefully outdoors. Travellers, brace yourselves for long waits in airports or seaports as flights or ferry services are postponed or cancelled.

Hope you're wrapped up in cosy long-johns with the thickest of socks, sitting near a warm fire or lying on the ondol. All the best in weathering this ice-storm to all in Korea.

Sources:
http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/news/news_photo_detail.htm?No=14174
http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/news/news_photo_detail.htm?No=14162¤t_page=
http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2914782
http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2914631

A VERY BIG THANK YOU to Mr Ko Jong-gyu at the Danyang Tourist Information Booth. We’d stopped by there to get more information and fortunately for us, it was the low season and you were spending the time in the most exemplary fashion by studying Japanese. We were lucky that you were free and offered to take us around in your car to show us some of the sights in Danyang.

Without you, we wouldn’t have seen the murals of Kuan Yin, the Goddess of Mercy in one temple, had our photo taken with the Three Peaks ( Dodamsambong ) and had our first taste of a memorable samgyetang ( stuffed chicken with ginseng). You were even so kind and patient as to drive me back to the restaurant the following day to retrieve a missing glove. Once again, Chong-mal Gamsa-hamnida!

Also want to thank a friendly elderly couple whom we met along the footpaths of the Daeseongsan, the park on the hill just behind Danyang town. Gamsa-hamnida for your very pleasant company as you let us join you on your daily exercise route round the hill and for pointing out to us various landmarks.

Am cheating but couldn't find as yet any YouTube videos of the Bosingak Bell Tolling Ceremony at Jongno for the 2009/2010 New Year Celebrations - either people were late and missed the ringing of the bell because they were having too good a time at the bars or it was too noisy to capture the sound of the bell.
So here's the next best thing to welcome the new year - may it ring it all good things and times for everyone!

source:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u9vLyN3H978&feature=related

Rock lovers will enjoy Danyang in Chungcheongbuk-do ( not to be confused with Damyang of Jeollanam-do) for the following reasons:

1. Dodamsambong ( Three Peaks). This landmark, just north of Danyang, has been featured in many commercials and advertisements in Korea.

It’s smaller than expected and only romantic in the right circumstances – go early in the morning or late in the evening. It doesn’t seem so evocative in the harsh glare of daylight.

2. Seongmun ( Stone Gate) is 200 meters away from Dodamsambong and has been dubbed presumably by the Koreans themselves “ the most splendid stone gate in Asia”.

source: http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3592/3621139721_f4a20683cc.jpg

3. Prehistoric artifacts which were excavated in the region are on display in Suyanggae Prehistoric Remains Hall in the centre of Danyang town.

source: http://www.emuseum.go.kr/eng/museum/museum_04_31.jsp

4. Sainam Rock is less accessible so it’s best to hop into a cab and head south of Danyang to see its ancient pines and pretty vertical profile.

source: http://static.panoramio.com/photos/original/17059889.jpg

5. South of Sainam Rock is Doraksan ( 964 m). Another handsome pine perched near the peak affords some dramatic photo opportunities.

source: http://www.land.go.kr/eng/images/tra/3301/223036_image2_1.jpg

6. Still further south is Mount Hwangjeong ( 959 m) which is home to vertical rock formations which are 20 -30 m high and form a splendid stone screen.

source: http://eng.gbmg.go.kr/image/gallery/thumb/120_360_300.jpg

7. Danyang has three natural monuments – beside Gosu Cave, you can also give your imagination a workout by giving your own names to the stalactites and stalagmites in Ondal , Cheondong and Nodong Caves.

source:
http://www.land.go.kr/gTra.do?tra=enudestination&cid=3301
http://cache.virtualtourist.com/4262045-Namhan_River_and_bridge_at_Danyang_South_Korea-Tanyang.jpg

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Korea-Danyang-Gosu_Cave_3184-07.JPG
http://www.travelblog.org/Asia/South-Korea/Seoul/blog-118713.html
http://images.travelpod.com/users/quebekwalouis/2.1221235320.gosu-donggulx-danyang.jpg

Danyang is not to be confused with Damyang, the town famed for its bamboo groves. The former is one of the few tourist towns in Chuncheongbuk-do, probably the least blessed of the provinces in terms of the number of attractions. Aside from Suanbo, three national parks and towns like Cheonju and Danyang, there aren’t that many attractions compared to other provinces in the country.

So, it probably hasn’t been easy for the local tourist promotion board in Chungcheongbuk-do to persuade foreign visitors to spend time and won there. Seoulites, however, need no persuasion. In summer, they descend on this quiet and cool provincial town to escape the oppressive heat. In winter, the town regains its sleepy provincial demeanour and the uncrowded streets take on an added charm.

Sandwiched between Woraksan National Park and Sobaeksan National Park, this pleasant town beside the Chungju Lake ( Chungju-ho) offers thrills for adventure-seekers in the form of white-water rafting and paragliding. Photo enthusiasts can also get trigger-happy hunting down the Eight Beautiful Sights of Danyang ( Danyang Palgyeong).

It’s even the ideal place for those seeking peace and quiet and long walks. Way back in 2002, my friend and I had only chosen to visit this town at the last-minute after watching the TV news about snowfalls causing jams in Gangwon-do. We decided it was more prudent to take the train from Gyeongju to Danyang instead of the bus to Gangwondo. It turned out to be a lucky detour.

Gosu-donggul, the main attraction of Danyang, usually attracts hordes of visitors during summer. According to my trusty Lonely Planet, during the peak tourist season, “you cannot move for all the tourists and it will take you an excruciating hour or more to walk around the system”. But when we visited this small provincial town in winter, it was almost as if we had the whole cave to ourselves.

As a result, it felt a little creepy at times so I had little reason to complain about the intrusive presence of the many steel staircases as they undermined the unearthly atmosphere of this very large limestone cave system. It was a good workout as we followed the well-posted 1300 m-long trail from one impressive formation of stalactites and stalagmites to another. Entrance fees were 3000 won in 2002.

source of pics:
http://cache.virtualtourist.com/4262045-Namhan_River_and_bridge_at_Danyang_South_Korea-Tanyang.jpg
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Korea-Danyang-Gosu_Cave_3184-07.JPG
http://www.travelblog.org/Asia/South-Korea/Seoul/blog-118713.html
http://images.travelpod.com/users/quebekwalouis/2.1221235320.gosu-donggulx-danyang.jpg

News From Korea I Don’t Want To Hear or Read About In 2010:

source: http://www.nytimes.com/2009/05/25/world/asia/25iht-korea.html

1. Suicides ( whether they concern former Presidents, entertainment celebrities or ordinary citizens)

source: http://www.nytimes.com/2009/05/25/world/asia/25iht-korea.html

2. Fire Disasters like the one that destroyed Hyangilam

source: http://www.korea.net/cheditor40_asp/cheditor/attach/20083517302333715.jpg

3 . Street vendors given a hard time by Seoul Metropolitan officials who think the city streets would be better off without the street vendors. Click here for a fuller story

source: http://blog.asiahotels.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/pojangmacha.jpg

4 . Entertainers given the boot simply because of cyberspace persecution. Click here for a fuller story.

source: http://hallyuwood.com/forums/showthread.php?t=483

Have I missed anything else?

To Certain Gentlefolk of Gyeongju,

First of all, thank you to our hosts in Sarangchae ( 054-773 4868) for maintaining a traditional-style house and renting out rooms for tourists.

My friend and I had flown into Ulsan from Jeju, just missed the shuttle bus by a minute or so (a warning to fellow travellers not to be tardy) and so arrived in Gyeongju late in the evening. So it was a relief to plonk ourselves into the cosy beds in your guesthouse and bask in the charming atmosphere of a bygone time.

At the same time, you thoughtfully provided your guests with modern amenities such as free Internet access and a kitchen in which we could fix ourselves a quick supper of instant noodles.

Unfortunately traditional style living dictates that the bathroom and toilet facilities are located away from the sleeping quarters and we weren’t prepared to continue to trudge the distance in the chilly early winter evening. So in the end, I’m sorry to admit that we decided to change to another place with zero physical charm but all the practical convenience of an attached bathroom.

But now it’s my turn to say Mian-hamnida to Mr Kwon Young-joung, the friendly proprietor of Hanjin-jang Yeogwan (tel 771 4096). The plainness and unmemorable appearance of his yeogwan is offset by the warm reception and farewell we got at his place – Gansa-hamnida to you, Mr Kwon, for the lovely chopstick tokens you presented us when we said goodbye to you. Sorry we missed your home-made entertainment ( do you really have performing scorpions?) but thank you for placing the reproduction of the Emile Bell at your reception counter. If I hadn’t had a chance to fall in love with its sound, I wouldn’t have bought my own replica at the Bulguksa souvenir shop.

Finally, CHONG-MAL GAMSA-HAMNIDA to a kind anonymous ajumma who helped us when we got lost somewhere on the streets of Gyeongju city. We stopped you, a complete stranger, simply hoping that you would point out the right direction to take to get back to our yeogwan. Instead you signalled that we should follow you into your car. We were completely floored when you actually drove us back right to the doorstep of Hanjin-jang. Maybe your kindness was prompted by the fact that you reckoned it was less convenient to tell us where to go ( given our very scanty Korean and your limited English) or perhaps it was out of national pride that Koreans take good care of foreign visitors. I’d like to think it was one of the many spontaneous acts of hospitality that I’ve experienced with your fellow citizens as you were so matter-of-fact about the whole matter.

Yours gratefully,
A non-Korean ajumma

sources:
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=398684&nearBy=site
http://www.flickr.com/photos/globalismpictures/1534962452/

Pages

Sunday, January 17, 2010

Picture of Summer for a Wintry Day - Deokjin Park, Jeonju Part 1

Friday, January 15, 2010

Ondols for the Highways???

Thursday, January 14, 2010

Sorikkun + Gosu + Buk = ?

Wednesday, January 13, 2010

Ladies, ajumma Salutes You!

Pat Yourself On The Back, SMG! However.....?

Tuesday, January 12, 2010

The Unique Art of Pansori, Part 1

Monday, January 11, 2010

Isn't She Lovely?

Sunday, January 10, 2010

Naejangsan "Revisited" In Winter

Friday, January 8, 2010

Sweeper's Bitter Labour Is Child's Innocent Delight Is Soldier's Masochistic Test Of Machismo?

Thursday, January 7, 2010

‘Tis The Season For Heating Pads And Naeboks….

Wednesday, January 6, 2010

A Provincial Park That Packs A Mighty Punch

Tuesday, January 5, 2010

Watching Sympathy for Lady Vengeance Again

Monday, January 4, 2010

Winter Wonderland or Winter of Our Discontent?

Sunday, January 3, 2010

Gamsa-hamnida to Some Denizens of Danyang

Friday, January 1, 2010

Happy New Year, Everyone!

Danyang Rocks! - Part 2

Danyang Rocks! - Part 1

Some Wishful Thinking for 2010

Gamsa- Hamnida to Some Gentlefolk of Gyeongju

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